Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Scoop on Dining: Bi-Rite Creamery and Bakeshop

I’m doing a two-part post this week on the “Bi-Rite Experience” in San Francisco’s Mission District. On a block of 18th Street, it’s like Bi-Rite is taking over the neighborhood, first with its grocery store selling fresh fruits and gourmet meats and now its ice cream destination, which I’m featuring today. Come back tomorrow for a tour of the Bi-Rite Market.Artisan Ice Cream with a Fifties Flair

Recently I got my cholesterol checked again because it was high last year, and now my doctor says I’m back in the normal range! So I went out to celebrate by checking out the Bi-Rite Creamery in San Francisco. ;-)

Opened a year ago, the tiny ice cream spot is right across the street from the Bi-Rite Market on 18th near Dolores. It’s known for its creamy, fresh ice cream made from mostly organic dairy products (primarily from Straus Organic Dairy). They say they make their ice cream in small batches, supposedly emphasizing the home-made aspect and giving a dig to the mass produced ice creams like Haagen-Dazs.

Here’s my visit from this past weekend. I actually went twice—on Saturday on my own and then again on Sunday afternoon after the Giants baseball game with my friends David and Ann. The sacrifices I make for research.
Because I’m in marketing and do graphic design on the side, I’m always impressed by good branding. Bi-Rite does this well with its whimsical signage, including the hand-written notes all over the place. I have to note that the line didn’t seem as long and as slow as it is at my other favorite ice cream destination spot, Ici in Berkeley. Another difference? More single people in line, and not a kid in sight. There’s always an advantage to living in the city.

As you enter, there’s a ton of chocolate sauces and other items for sale along the wall. But hardly anyone was browsing. Everyone seemed focused on what to order.

Here are more organic chocolate sauces and a stack of David Leibowitz’s “The Perfect Scoop.” This book is in virtually every artisan ice cream shop. Gosh, he has a good publisher.

There’s a small refrigerator below all the chocolate sauces where you can find a drink. I love the old-time ‘50s look to all the appliances. Again, great job with creating the brand feel. You just know you can get a good bottle of Pop here.

The freezer to the side offers ice cream by the pint and a whole bunch of other things, including ice cream pies, ice cream sandwiches and coconut macaroons.

The moment of truth: Time to decide what to get. Again, love the hand-written displays—so organic and natural. Many of the flavors were focused on sweet candy inspirations, like mint chip, coffee toffee and butter pecan. Bi-Rite has less of the innovative fruit and spice flavors of Ici. It also has some odd flavors like roasted banana. I wasn’t that adventurous to try it.

The place is sooo small, but it has maybe three barstools on the side if you want to eat in. But it was such a beautiful day, I ate outside where there are a few tiny benches around the trees.

Here’s what I went with on my first visit—two scoops in a cup ($4.25). The top flavor is balsamic strawberry and underneath it is the famous salted caramel. I thought the strawberry tasted fresh, but it was just like strawberry ice cream you get at the store. Plus it had a few pieces of ice, which I thought showed a lack of perfection in technique. But the salted caramel was fantastic. It had a creamy texture similar to gelato and the flavoring was rich and deep. If I drank coffee, this would be a nice flavor to pair with a good cup of Joe.

On Sunday with David and Ann, I decided to go with my favorite flavors of lemon and ginger. So I got a scoop of each and I had them sprinkle the cookie of the day, which was a lemon-ginger snap. Yep, it was lemon-ginger overload. I liked both the lemon and ginger flavors of the ice cream, but I wasn’t a fan of the cookie. Some parts were crispy while others were stale. And I think the guy was a bit too generous on the sprinkling, if that’s possible.

This is what David and Ann went with. On the bottom is the salted caramel, of course, but on top was a new flavor: peanut butter with Fleur de Sel nuggets. Fleur de Sel, the fancy sea salt from France, is being generously used as toppings in a lot of confections these days. And why not? It’s a great contrasting flavor. The nuggets were like chocolate bits with the sea salt mixed in, and the combination with the ice cream was an amazing trick.

Bi-Rite is a fun and delicious destination for ice cream in the city, especially being near Dolores Park on a warm weekend (which will only be for the next two months in the Bay Area). It sells more variety of ice cream products, including three flavors of popsicles (pineapple, mango and kiwi for $1.95 each). The palette of flavors lean heavily on the candy (which is what my friend Ann likes) compared to the seasonal fruits and spices at Ici (which is what I like). So I say Ici is still my favorite for innovative ice cream flavors, but I wouldn’t turn down an offer to drop by Bi-Rite when in San Francisco. Especially since my cholesterol is back to normal. :)

Bi-Rite Creamery and Bakeshop, 3692 18th St. at Dolores, San Francisco. Summer hours: Sunday–Thursday, 11 a.m.–9 p.m.; Friday–Saturday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

Monday, July 30, 2007

The Sweet Nectar of Onions

I was recently having a debate with a friend about which onions were the sweetest. We talked about the Vidalia and the Walla Walla, but I told him hands-down the sweetest onions are from Maui. For awhile I saw Maui onions sold in gourmet packets at my Safeway, but then they stopped carrying them. So I had to tell my sister in Hawaii to pack some in her suitcase whenever she traveled to the Bay Area for business. (Of course, she didn’t like the idea of smuggling onions into California and getting caught by some overzealous Homeland Security officer.)

Well, my friend found Maui onions sold at his Andronico’s, so he gave me some recently. Now with too many onions on my hand, the only thing I did was to make soup! Below is my recipe for French onion soup. This is one of my favorite soups and it’s also really easy to make. But doesn’t it look classic? The recipe is, of course, reduced a bit for one or two people and I added some depth with the Worcestershire sauce, which I love for anything meaty. The Maui onions made this soup taste wonderful, and I didn’t even mind that it was hot outside. (Luckily, we’re starting to get cooler evenings in the Bay Area—that typical San Francisco summer weather pattern!) Enjoy!

French Onion Soup

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
3 Maui sweet onions or 2 regular yellow onions, sliced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 T Worcestershire sauce
1 T extra virgin olive oil
1 T butter
½ cup dry white wine
1 14-oz. can of beef broth or 2 cups homemade beef or veal broth
1 cup water
2 T flour
1 t dried thyme
1 bay leaf
2-3 oz. Gruyere cheese
slices of French baguette

Warm olive oil and butter in a saucepan or pot. Add onions and garlic and saute for about two minutes to soften the onions (they should look translucent). Sprinkle flour over the onions and cook for a minute to get rid of the flour taste, then add white wine and cook for another minute to burn off some of the alcohol. Add broth, water, thyme and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Then reduce to simmer for about 30 to 35 minutes under the onions are tender.

Cut your baguette into bite-size pieces to create croutons. Place on baking sheet and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil then place under broiler for a minute to get a golden brown color.

When your soup is done, remove the bay leaf and then laddle the soup into oven-proof soup bowls. Float pieces of your croutons on top to cover the top layer and then grate the cheese over the croutons and bowl. Place under broiler until the cheese melts. (If not using broiler, place in oven at 400 degrees until cheese melts, about 2 to 5 minutes.)

Makes 2 to 3 servings. Makes a nice starter for a beef dinner.

TIP: I suggest cutting your baguette into smaller pieces because it makes it easier to eat. Some people like to slice the baguette and place one big piece of toast on top of the soup bowl. It looks more dramatic, but I think it’s not very considerate to your guest who has to deal with that big piece of toast on top. Also, I like to place at least one piece on top of the initial layer, sitting almost in its own layer, so that you’ll get at least one cheese crouton that’s crunchy and dry and not soaking in the soup.

SERVE IT UP: You can make the soup ahead of time and just warm it up before placing in the bowl and adding the croutons and cheese. You can even make it ahead of time and have a bowl a night for the next three nights as a quick starter to dinner or snack. But I think it helps to warm the soup up on the stovetop instead of just pouring cold soup in the bowls and hoping the broiling or oven will warm it up. It won’t thoroughly warm up before your croutons and cheese burn. So take that extra step to warm up the soup before serving.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Throw an Avocado on The Grill

Next time you fire up your grill this summer, consider throwing on a few halves of avocados. In California, we're finally seeing locally grown avocados, instead of the ones from Chile, so I've been enjoying eating them, especially since they're good for you. But as a fun party starter for a picnic, you can grill them just for less than a minute (the natural fat helps with the grilling, but you can also spray it lightly with an olive oil spray) and top them with my mango salsa recipe. It gives it a slight smokey taste, but really it's just to get those cool grill marks! Enjoy!

Friday, July 27, 2007

Mini Dish: Don Day’s Korean Burritos (New Owners)

Is that bulgogi in your burrito?

UPDATE (4/7/08): Don Day has reopened under new management. The interiors still look the same but the menu is now traditional Korean cuisine. No burritos!

UPDATE (3/03/08): This tiny restaurant closed in late 2007 and a sign says a new owner will take over. No word if they will continue with the Korean burritos.

Where I work in the Oakland-Lake Merritt area, there’s not a lot of lunch options, which is why I typically pack my own lunch and eat at my desk. But when the weather is so beautiful, like it was today, I had to step out and enjoy the sun—and hunt for some quick lunch.

That’s when I saw this sign for Korean burritos. It was outside the Don Day Korean restaurant at the corner of 14th and Webster Streets on the way to Oakland’s Chinatown.



Oakland has a very prominent Korean community, and I’ve noticed more and more Korean restaurants opening near Chinatown. Don Day is actually a place I’ve eaten before awhile back, when it was just a regular Korean barbeque joint. But in the last year, I’ve noticed that it’s gotten a new look, with new signs and a hipper, youthful appeal. It’s almost like the older Korean couple who was running the place recently retired and turned the business over to the kids.

Along with the new look, Don Day recently changed its offerings from the traditional Korean barbeque to a lunch-friendly burrito menu during the days. (You can still get the traditional barbeque dishes, with its accompanying soups and side dishes, for dinner. But only the burritos are sold during the weekday lunch.) Intrigued by the idea of a Korean burrito, I decided to check it out.

For now, Don Day offers six varieties of burritos for $4.99 (with the exception of the salmon teriyaki, which goes for $6.99). The choices include bulgogi, chicken bulgogi, spicy pork, spicy chicken, chicken teriyaki and the aforementioned salmon teriyaki.
You order at the counter (cash only) and then you can sit in the refurbished area to eat your burrito. Bulgogi is one of the more well-known Korean dishes, next to kim chee. It’s basically very thin beef marinated with soy sauce and sesame oil and has a sweet and spicy undertone. Because I didn’t want to load up on my red meat for the week, I stuck with the chicken bulgogi. I ordered my chicken bulgogi burrito, and then since it was a nice day, I took it to go and ate at a nearby park.

Here’s a shot of my chicken bulgogi burrito. It looked like any other burrito, and it’s pretty huge for $4.99.

You can’t get a real idea of the burrito unless you look inside. So here’s a shot of my Korean burrito after I took a few bites. It had the basic ingredients of a burrito: the tortilla wrap, naturally, and lettuce, some tomatoes, bean paste and meat. Overall, it tasted like a chicken burrito. There was just a very subtle sweet and tangy Korean taste that was in the sauce.

What really made my chicken burrito turn Korean was the side sauce that came with it. I’m assuming this is the bulgogi dipping sauce, which traditionally is very spicy. This sauce was just that. It was thick like hot sauce and had the underlying spicy Korean taste like what’s found in kim chee. It really made my burrito taste like a Korean burrito. But if you get this, I recommend that you just drizzle a little bit of the spicy sauce with every few bites.

Overall, it was a filling and interesting lunch at the park with my Korean burrito from Don Day. I can’t say it was necessarily anything that tasted revolutionary, but it’s a nice option to have for a quick lunch and definitely broadens my choices for the work week.

Since this is a mini review, I’m not giving it a rating. Don Day is located at 346 14th St. at Webster in Oakland. PH: 510.444.7755.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Don't Judge A Soup By Its Photo

Some of my friends ask me how I come up with recipes for this blog, and most times I'm playing around with things I've made before and switching out ingredients, or I'll get inspired by something I see in another cookbook and take it in another direction. So the weekends at my place is pretty much "test kitchen" central.

Well, I regularly post my recipes but rarely do I post the duds in the test kitchen, until now. The above is a photo of my chilled cantaloupe soup. I know, sounds great, huh? Looked even better after I photographed it. But when I tasted...eh. It was just OK. It lacked another depth in flavor. There was a very subtle cantaloupe sweetness, and I barely made out the leeks and fennel that I boiled and pureed with the cantaloupe. I had made it without any broth because I thought the sweetness of the cantaloupe would be enough. And don't get me wrong, it smelled fantastic as I was boiling the cantaloupe to soften it so I can puree it with my hand blender.

So you see, sometimes The Single Guy Chef test kitchen works. Sometimes it doesn't. I'm going to have to keep testing this chilled cantaloupe recipe. Maybe one hot summer I'll get it right. Anywho, it was just soooo pretty that I didn't want to waste this photo. If you can't taste it, at least it can maybe make you feel relaxed. That's how I feel when I look at it. Now isn't that a nice way to start the weekend? :)

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Dish on Dining: Oliveto Café Revisited

Rustic Italian fare in the heart of Rockridge
5655 College Ave., Oakland
Rockridge
PH: 510.547.5356
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
www.oliveto.com


On nice summer days, people like to flock to the outdoor seating area at Oliveto Café, sipping a glass of wine with their pizzas or pasta dishes. And with a prime spot at the base of the Market Hall clock tower, you’re sure to do a lot of people watching as well.

Oliveto has been around for many years, and the upstairs dining room is the standard-bearer for fine dining in Rockridge (along with the other longtime restaurant Citron down the road). Created along the lines of Chez Panisse—that means an emphasis on fresh, local ingredients—Oliveto in recent years has been under the guidance of Executive Chef Paul Canales, who worked many years before as the restaurant’s chef de cuisine.

Similar to Chez Panisse, Oliveto offers formal dining on one level (upstairs) and a casual café with a wood-fire brick oven (downstairs). Last weekend, I decided to have an early dinner at the café with my friends John and Jessie. (Some of you may recall that I’ve been designing John’s Web site. And I’m almost done!)

All the outdoor tables were filled, so we settled for a table near the sun and decided to drown our disappointment with a round of dry martinis. (Yum) The café has a clean, elegant look often accented by a beautiful floral arrangement. The service when we were there were friendly and not at all standoffish.

The café has a limited menu compared to the upstairs dining room (prices also about $5-6 cheaper), and it focuses primarily on simple, Italian dishes. It’s also very kid-friendly with at least a pasta and pizza selection.

We decided to start with the antipasto misto, which was a mixed plate of golden beets, purslane, buffalo mozzarella, toasted almonds and marinated olives. The platter looked beautiful, and everything was simply dressed with either vinegar and olive oil or served naturally. Jessie commented that his yard in San Jose is overrun by purslane, considered a weed and sometimes used as landscaping. So it was interesting to see it being served at Oliveto. (And I’m noticing it on a few other menus around town as well—maybe because it’s so easy to get!)

For our meals, Jessie had the albacore tuna, which was lightly dressed with cherry tomatoes and arugula. John eyed a nearby table’s pasta dish and ordered something similar, the pasta al forno trompetti al ragu. Both of their dishes were perfectly cooked, although Jessie’s tuna dish reminded me of a similar simple tuna dish at Perbacco. (BTW, I learned that Italians like to eat their tuna more on the well done side than rare like the Japanese. Jessie’s tuna was somewhere in between.)


I ordered the arrosto del giorno, or roast of the day, which was a Hoffman Farm hen served with dandelion greens and crispy potatoes. The hen was also perfectly cooked (that became a recurring theme for the expert hand of the chef working that day) with a wonderfully golden brown skin and tender, scrumptious white meat. This was also my first time tasting a Hoffman Farm hen, and I highly recommend you ordering this if you ever see Hoffman Farm as the source for poultry on a menu. I wasn’t a fan of the dandelion greens, however, which were a bit more tough and bitter for my tastes (I would have preferred arugula or even fresh spinach). But I was an instant fan of the crispy potatoes. They were tiny, dice-sized golden brown nuggets of crunch. Again, perfectly cooked.

We ended our meal with a chocolate dessert. It was called a tartufatti with amarena cherry pieces around it. It was chocolate ice cream encased in some kind of chocolate shell that was pretty darn hard to break into. Plus, it didn’t look very appetizing. (There’s always a risk, IMHO, of making chocolate balls with little bumps around it. Eeeww.)

Oliveto Café is a beautiful dining area with expertly executed dishes. The choices are simple and basic—more rustic than refine. So don’t come expecting to be wowed with innovative combinations of ingredients or fancy plating. Simplicity is the key here. It’s a great place to have a casual dinner while still feeling like you’re getting the special treatment.

Single guy rating: 3.5 stars (quality ingredients showcased simply)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

Oprah-Okra. Okra-Oprah.

I just realized okra, one of my favorite southern vegetables, sounds a lot like Oprah, who sometimes talk with a Southern accent. Anywho, today I’m cooking with okra because I saw this beautiful basket of fresh okra at the farmers market this weekend and had to buy them.

Now you’re probably wondering how a boy from Hawaii developed a taste for okra? My mom used to cook with it, making a beef stir-fry. I remember the gooey, sticky okra looking like slugs, but I just gravitated to the hearty, thick skin. And since then I’ve enjoyed it in the more traditional form as the base of gumbo, one of the more festive comfort food dishes I know.

So below is my quick recipe for okra stir-fry with beef, playing off the traditional pairing my mom used to make. It might take some getting used to the odd gooey nature of okra, but it’s definitely something different for the dinner table. Enjoy!

Okra Beef Stir-Fry

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
6-8 oz. good cut of beef (such as New York or sirloin), cut into bite-sized slices
2 cups okra, cut diagonally
1 yellow bellpepper, cut into cubes
1 shallot, finely diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 t fresh ginger, grated
1 t white pepper
1 T soy sauce
1 T xiao-shing wine (cooking rice wine) or sherry
1 T sesame oil
1 T oyster sauce
2 T canola oil
1/2 T cornstarch
salt

Marinate your beef in a small bowl with white pepper, soy sauce, xiao-shing wine, sesame oil, ginger and garlic. Set aside for at least 10 minutes.

In a wok or large skillet, warm oil over high heat. Add shallots and stir-fry for about 30 seconds and then add beef. Brown both sides, about 1 minute each, and then remove from wok. (Remove the beef after it’s brown but still red inside.)

Add more oil into the wok if needed and then add bellpepper and okra. Stir-fry for about 2 minutes. Season with salt (about a teaspoon). If your wok is getting too dry, add some of the marinade sauce leftover from your meat. Just as the okra looks like it’s tender, add back in the beef and blend all the ingredients with a drizzle of oyster sauce. Then create a slurry with the cornstarch and some water (about ¼ cup) and then add slowly to your stir-fry to create a sauce. Add only enough to make as much sauce as you like.

Makes 2 to 3 servings. Serve with steamed rice.

Pair with a glass of pinot noir.

TIP: If you have really good beef, you don’t really need to cook it all the way through. Some pink inside will be nice. That’s why I recommend taking the beef out of the wok while you’re cooking the vegetables and then adding it back in the end. Also, when adding the beef to the wok for the first time, don’t add all the marinade with it or else you’ll have soup. Add just enough to create a sizzle but don’t drown your meat. You can add more marinade as you’re cooking whenever your wok looks like it’s drying out.

Monday, July 23, 2007

The Next Food Network Star: Season 3 Finale

After just eight episodes (gosh, didn’t it seem longer?), tonight we finally find out who will be The Next Food Network Star. We cut to a shot of the Statue of Liberty at night and then we’re told by the mysterious voice that it’s a live show from the Food Network’s Manhattan studios, but it’s really not live because it’s probably taped delay here in California where everyone probably already knows who’s the Next Food Network star but I was too lazy to Google it.

So it’s either going to Rory, who cooks “real food for real people” (which is always better than fake food for fake people), or Amy, the “gourmet next door” (as opposed to one that’s galloping).

We get the opening scenes of the show (didn’t Rory look weird with that pseudo military cap trying to look all tough in the hood?) and then we cut to the live studio audience. Damn, they all look so old. Is this the typical Food Network demographic? Where’s the little girl crying for Sanjaya? Out comes Marc Summers, who they dragged out from Season 1. (Every year Marc’s role in the show gets less and less. Next year they’re probably just going to have him come out to deliver the envelope with the winner’s name.)

Marc says someone is going to get their own food show, just in case some of you forgot why you tuned in. Then he asks the audience who’s it going to be? Of course, I hear mostly people yelling “Amy,” but Marc, trying to keep up some semblance of mystery, says “it’s split down the middle.” (Hey, how come the audience doesn’t have any signs with their favorite’s names like American Idol? And did you notice they never really reveal the gazillion number of votes received, if even. But I’m getting ahead of myself. First, let’s see how we can bore viewers for the next 55 minutes.)

Marc introduces a taped segment reviewing the past season. And really, I don’t need to recap the recap when you can just read my previous recaps of Episodes 1 through 7. We do get to remind ourselves of some of the rejects, like Patrick from Seattle, who probably had the best cooking skills but has the honor of being one of the first two to leave the show. What’s interesting is some of these people are talking about their cooking vision, and it totally doesn’t sound like what they demonstrated on the show. Ooops, my screen just went black for a bit. Did that happen to you guys? I hate cable. Oh, there’s that clip of Paul talking about the country of “Plummy.” (Told you they would show that again. )

Geesh, finally. That was a long segment. OK, they bring out the two finalists and they’re both wearing black and white. (I’m not going to discuss the style of the clothing because I think it’s sexist to describe what women are wearing unless it’s relevant to the topic. So since this is not Project Runway, let’s move on.) Amy and Rory talks about “their journey” to this point together. You can tell Rory is more nervous than Amy. Amy’s cool like a cucumber. Rory’s from Texas, so she’s probably cool like a cactus, which really isn’t that cool. More prickly. And then Marc does the thing Ryan Seacrest always does on AI, which is tease that we’re going to find out who wins this, but of course they never ann ounce that right after the break and we know it, so why tease that fact people?

Commercials. Memo to Crystal Light. I like my water plain, thank you very much. Please don’t pump it up. Sincerely, Single Guy Chef.

Marc asks Amy and Rory if their lives have changed because of their new found celebrity. Amy’s talking about being recognized grocery shopping for a big bag of gummy bears. She’s such a mom. Rory says her small town couldn’t get the Food Network, so the town banded together and called the local cable network and now the Food Network is on Channel 99 in Vega, Texas. I’m sure the Food Network is excited to pick up the 936 additional viewers (no kidding, that really is the population of the entire town).

That’s the segue to the taped segment of Rory back in her little town of Vega. We finally see her cowboy boyfriend, who really looks more nerdy than rugged. He’s saying something about how the town is so small that when someone sneezes, it gets down to the other side of town in 10 minutes. All I can think of is, gawd, didn’t you learn any manners? Please cover your mouth when you sneeze! Rory reveals that she’s from New Jersey but went to Texas on another reality show where they took city slickers and put them in a rural town. Huh? Never heard of that show, but I bet it would have been fun. Or was that the “Simple Life”? Hmmm, Rory could be Paris. Not.

Since returning home after taping the show, Rory has opened a restaurant called Boot Hill Bar and Grill. It looks like some old town saloon. I expect Marshal Dillon to come get a drink and then beat up some bad guys who were pimping poor Miss Kitty. In Rory’s world, she’s having a private opening of her place and she’s cooking everything. The food looks pretty good and everyone’s loving it, of course. What’s weird is she’s wearing this bright red bandana and at the end of her opening, she’s talking in a black cocktail dress but still wearing that weird red bandana. She is so blue collar. (I know I contradicted myself about not talking about what women wear, but that black cocktail dress-red bandana combo couldn’t be ignored.)

Rory says after the segment that she learned a lot about patience and to be proud of herself. In the crowd are her divorced parents who are both remarried and her cowboy boyfriend.

They go to commercials, and see, Marc Summers does that stupid Ryan Seacrest thing where he teases about announcing the winner. Marc, we know we have 45 minutes of filler still to go. Commercials. Hey, have you all listened to Michael Tolcher’s “Voila” song on the Hilton commercial? I haven’t seen it on any other shows, so I’ll be sad to not hear it anymore. Ugh, Daddy Day Care movie preview. Cuba Gooding Jr. has really picked bad movies since he won an Oscar. So sad.

Marc reminds us that this season a woman will win this series, just in case anyone was confused of Amy or Rory’s gender. (It is actually nice to have a girl winner after two seasons of guys.) Then we see the taped segment of Amy back home in San Diego, where she grew up and is a third-generation San Diegan. She has a son with a pretentious name (“Indiana”), and her daughter, Scarlett, is the typical high-pitched screaming 1 year old.

It sounds like she lives in a compound with her parents in one house and her own family nearby, including a whole bunch of siblings. She’s preparing a barbeque for the whole family. Amy says she never used to grill until she got on the show and now she says she grills almost every night. She’s going to be the female Bobby Flay. It looks like a really big family and you know what? All the women in the family have big black hair. What’s weird is she doesn’t talk about her French husband. In the clip she’s sitting on the couch next to some guy, but I’m not sure if that’s her husband. It’s really weird she doesn’t mention him or show footage of him. And when she introduces who’s in the live audience rooting for her, it’s her mother, aunt, and two sisters. But not her hubby? Hmmm, odd.

Now it’s reunion time and they bring back all the other contestants. Everyone’s dressed really nice, except JAG (hisss) who comes in wearing a big white shirt and jeans. He does look like he lost some weight. Must have been the stress of lying. See, it never pays to fib, unless you want to lose weight. It’s the lying diet.

They show a taped segment about the 11 contestants living together. It’s soooo boring. They talk about snoring and Amy talking in her sleep. Gosh, can we see clips of people flossing their teeth? Maybe that’ll be more interesting. Oh, there’s a segment of the guys without their shirts. Hey, maybe this segment is starting to look up. Paul has the best body, I say. Oh no, Michael Salmon shirtless! OK, end this already.

Now they talk about the challenges and they show a segment about the wedding challenge and the “controversy” of Tommy making a vegetarian polenta with chicken broth. They ask Nikki why she didn’t say anything when she knew Tommy was using chicken broth. She says Paul told her not to. Paul’s laughing but you know in his head he’s thinking how to get back at her.

The other controversy is Colombe and the whole shopping bag being left behind that belonged to Paul. They show the clip of Amy fighting with Colombe, and that was definitely a drag out, knock down fight. But in the end Colombe, of course, says they’re all fine now. I’m so relieved.

Other boring reviews include the “meatloaf frying” incident from the military challenge. And now Marc asks JAG if he has something to say. He just thanks the fans and says “it ain’t over.” Um, I’m pretty sure it is in just 30 minutes.

Then the blooper reel, and basically they’re just showing people laughing. There’s just only a few bloopers like when Guy Fieri says New Jersey Nicks instead of Nets, and Paula Deen points out that Miss Everyday Italian Giada has spinach in her teeth. There’s this one scene where JAG slips some ice cubes down Paul’s pants. And I’m really surprised he could get any down there because those pants looked pretty tight. Tommy is seen dancing often in the clips, which prompts Marc Summers to do an impromptu “So You Think You Can Dance.” This is going to be so sad. Adrien comes out in support of his buddy Tommy, and they both do this weird robot-like dancing. Sigh, this moment probably best sums up this entire season! Forced and robotic!

More boring recaps: Nikki dropping her dessert on Bobby Flay’s suit during the wedding challenge. (Again, she says Paul made her do it.) Commercials. Design Star is back on HGTV. You know I’ll be watching that after this.

Now they talk about how they hated the elimination round. Nobody liked going home (except I bet Tommy). A few tears were shed. We’re reminded that Amy almost dropped out two episodes ago. She’s so lucky the producers knew better. They bring out the judging panel of Bob Tuschman, Susie Fogelson and Bobby Flay. Bob Tuschman says the judges may have come off mean but it was all “tough love.” Nobody has the guts to bitch about the judges. They know better. Bobby Flay says that if he were a finalist, he would have come in seventh because he probably wouldn’t be able to do the Iron Chef commentary and he’s only done one wedding cake. Thanks for sharing, Bobby.

There’s Bob Tushchman trying to make amends now by kissing up to Vivien and Patrick, saying they deserved so much better and are very talented. Oh Bob, unless you’re trying to sign them to their own shows, they don’t care what you think anymore. Patrick informs everyone that soon after he got kicked off, his wife gave birth to their son. So I bet his wife was glad that he got kicked off early.

There’s more boring banter between the contestants and the judges. Paul gets one last attempt to put the spotlight on him by asking Susie what he should do to become the next Food Network star, and she says to cook better food. Bobby does say something profound about how you should be nervous about your passion, because then that means it’s real. I believe that’s true, because I’m nervous every day.

They show a segment about how everyone got sad whenever someone left the show. This is the tear-jerker taped segment. And it seems like most of the crying were done by the guys. Paul and JAG are continuously talking about their close bond, and all I can say is “get a room.” JAG is constantly touching Paul’s left thigh, and even I get uncomfortable.

Finally, they’re about to announce the winner. And I can’t fast-forward any faster just to get this over with. They introduce Emeril Lagasse, who seems to be given the honor of announcing the winner every year. Emeril’s like the grandfather of the Food Network, even though he didn’t create it. Emeril says it was the most exciting season ever, and I am so not buying it. He reminds Amy and Rory that the winner will also get that big honking hybrid Mercury Mariner. (Memo to auto industry: Just because you make an SUV a hybrid doesn’t mean it’s still good for the environment. It still sucks up more fuel than other hybrids.)

They introduce the president of the Food Network who does the perfunctory congratulations. Bobby Flay hands the “magical” envelope to Emeril, who then asks the two ladies if they have any last-minute thoughts. Amy says she’s proud she made it this far; Rory gets all flekempt and says she can’t really talk. Emeril asks Bobby for help to open a simple envelope, and then he says in such an anti-climatic and quiet tone, “Amy.” Almost like he’s saying, “Amy, could you move down just a bit. Thanks. Rory, you’re the winner!” But of course, it is Amy who wins because we all know she’s the one with the poise to have her own show. But I have to say, Rory did put up a good battle and did show she could probably hold her own. So there you have it. Catch the Gourmet Next Door on the Food Network early Saturday mornings this October.

Thanks everyone for reading my recaps and for your encouraging comments. If you can’t get enough of my recaps, then be sure to check back in a couple of months when I start recapping the show, “The Next Iron Chef,” when real celebrity chefs (including San Francisco’s own Chris Cosentino of Incanto and Traci des Jardins of Jardiniere) compete to become an Iron Chef, joining the ranks of Masaharu Morimoto, Bobby Flay, Mario Batali and Cat Cora. Now that’s going to be an exciting food show to recap. Check back in October.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Cooking Demo by Joyce Goldstein

I was at the Ferry Building's farmers' market yesterday and along with all the great fresh vegetables and fruits you also learn some things about cooking. The next time you visit (market is every week on Saturday), make sure you're there around 11 a.m. because that's when they have their featured cooking demonstration at the makeshift demo area on the north side of the building facing Embarcadero.

Yesterday's featured guest was San Francisco chef and restaurant consultant Joyce Goldstein. I have to admit, I never heard of her, but I saw her book Antipasti and currently curious about anything charcuterie, I went to check it out. Of course, she didn't do a recipe from her book! :( Instead, she made some tapas dishes from her upcoming book featuring Spanish cuisine. Oh well, since I loved traveling to Spain, I stuck around and watched.

She demonstrated two quick and easy tapas that featured grilled bread, basically a crostini. Her Spanish version featured a base called Samfaina, which she called a Catalan version of the French ratatouille. (Hey, ever since Pixar made that film of the same name, EVERYONE has to talk about ratatouille these days. Ugh, and I hardly eat ratatouille.)
Goldstein basically put her base ingredients of Japanese eggplant, onions, garlic, zucchini, green and red peppers, tomatoes and parsley into the roasting pans and started to cook them down. For flavor, she added sweet pimenton, which is Spanish smoked paprika. (I use this often when making my paella.) Samfaina sounds a lot like sofrito, because the idea is to cook the vegetables all the way down until it's almost like mush. Then you can use it as a base for other dishes or sauces.
The Center for Urban Education about Sustainable Agriculture (CUESA for short) is the sponsor of the demos. And they got this big grill yesterday to grill the Acme bread for Goldstein's recipes. Sigh, if I had such a big grill, I would do more than just grill bread. But that's just me.
Goldstein's helpers were busy grilling bread in the back and rubbing each one with a garlic clove.
This is not the Samfaina, but another recipe Goldstein demonstrated. It was a simple white bean puree with olive oil and sea salt (reminded me of humus) and she topped it with swiss chard that was cooked down until it was soft and drizzled with red wine vinegar and more olive oil. Very Mediterranean.
Here's the grilled bread with Samfaina. I had to wait so long for this to be cut and passed around because they had to wait until the Samfaina cooled down before they could top the bread. Now basically, Samfaina would be cooked slowly at a simmer for a while before it's ready. But Goldstein, for her demo yesterday, did a shortcut and cooked it on high with a cover. So I can't say if it turned out how it typically should be. But it tasted all right. A quick and easy snack.

Saturday, July 21, 2007

Seen At The Market: Lollo Rossa Lettuce

What a beautiful day to be at the farmers' market. And looking at the crowds in San Francisco, I wasn't the only one who had that idea. I was at the Ferry Building farmers' market this morning and it was packed with locals and tons of tourists soaking in the summer sun with breathtaking views of the Bay Bridge and water. This is why I live here despite the 4.2 earthquake a couple of days ago centered in Oakland (the city I live in, BTW). Anywho, there were tons of summer squash, tomatoes and other vegetables at the market, but this vibrantly red leafy lettuce caught my eye at the Green Gulch Farm booth. This is a Lollo Rossa lettuce, and it's an Italian lettuce that is more compact than the normal red leafy lettuce you see at the grocery stores. They are so beautiful.

Other notes about the market: lemon cucumbers are popping up, and I bought a bag of these cute cucumbers that look like lemon but holds such a nice crunch. I eat it by itself with a miso dressing. There are a lot of heirloom tomatoes too but still they're not at the peak of varieties, and the red flame seedless grapes (my favorites) are still not crunchy enough (probably another month). Go out and support your local farmers' market!

Friday, July 20, 2007

Dish to Go: Geta

My Go-To Place for Takeout Sushi
165 41st St., Oakland
Piedmont Avenue
PH: 510.653.4643
Hours: Mon.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. and 5–9 p.m. Closed Sunday.
Credit cards: $10 minimum


Geta is one of those tiny gems that you really don’t want to tell people about because you don’t want the lines to get any longer for the times when you end up going for takeout. But I’m a giver. So here’s my review of this family-run, hole-in-the-wall in the Piedmont Avenue shopping district in Oakland.

My philosophy on Japanese food is it’s very hard to screw it up. Japanese dishes are relatively simple and typically tickles the palate with the right balance of shoyu. With sushi, of course, you’ve got to have the freshest fish and perfectly cooked rice to distinguish a good sushi bar from another. But when it comes to dinner to take home, I generally order the teriyaki chicken. And really, how hard is it to make grilled chicken with the shoyu-sugar marinade?

What makes Geta (I’m still not clear if their name is Geta, which sounds Japanese, or Get A, as in “Get a sushi to go”?) a gem is that it makes standard Japanese dishes for takeout taste just like you’re dining in a restaurant. Their ingredients are fresh and their servings are generous but not overly so. So that makes Geta a value meal for weeknight takeout when you don’t want to fuss with cooking after work.

I call Geta a hole-in-the-wall because its tiny quarters do feel like someone dug a hole in the building next to the Longs Drugs store and decided to put in a kitchen. When you walk into the space, with a tiny sushi bar and maybe four tables and one raised table in the back, you really do feel like you’re walking into an unmarked ramen stand in an alley in Tokyo.

Some people do eat in the tiny restaurant, but I’ve found that most people, like me, go to Geta to get a dish to go. This can be either their ready-made sushi from the refrigerated section to the right or ordering off the menu.

Like I said earlier, I generally go for the chicken teriyaki, especially since I often go to Geta after the gym and my body’s craving protein. One day I got their daily special, which was a bento-style box (bento is the Japanese word for lunch boxes where you get an assortment of items beautifully presented in a carryout box) that included chicken teriyaki over rice, 6 pieces of gyoza, soba noodles, a green salad and miso soup—all for $7.50.

When I got home, I dug into the chicken, which had a strong smoky grill flavor. The gyoza had a thin skin and were plumped with filling and pan-fried for a crispy edge. Everything else in the box was nicely made, including the leafy lettuce salad with a soy dressing and a hint of yuzu and the perfectly cooked rice. The only down side was the miso soup, which was a bit salty for my taste.

Another time, I ordered a sushi roll off the menu. Although they sold ready-made sushi in the refrigerated section, I always feel it’s fresher if they made it right then and there for me. I took home the Rock N’ Roll sushi, which is avocado and unagi (broiled eel). It didn’t taste like anything special, but it was decent and much better than the ready-made sushi you’d get at the grocery stores. And for $4.25, that’s way cheaper than my Safeway sushi.

I wanted to experiment with their donburi, which is a staple takeout item for me as well. Donburi are the rice bowls topped with a main ingredient along with egg and onion slices. I typically order the oyakodon, which is the chicken teriyaki over rice (I know, I’m such a creature of habit). But this last time I ordered the Katsudon ($5.75), which is breaded pork cutlet over rice.

My mistake in ordering this was forgetting that the crunchy skin of the deep-fried pork cutlet couldn’t possibly survive my trek home. If you ever order this to take home, remember to leave the cover slightly open to allow any of the steam from the fresh katsu to release so it doesn’t stay trap and give your dish too much moisture, thereby softening the crunchy edges of your pork. Which is what happened to me. When I got home, the katsu was soft and not very satisfying.

However, I do have to sing Geta’s praises about the egg in the dish. Most donburi are made with the egg almost scrambled with the onions. But at least this particular time, Geta gave me a katsudon where the egg looked like it was made over-easy. So by the time I got home, it was still partly cooked giving the overall dish a beautiful creamy texture (just like eating custard). Hat’s off for the Geta chefs for their expert cooking of the egg in their donburi.

Geta is nothing fancy, but just one of those places you rely on when you don’t want fancy but want something basic and hearty. The fact that it’s just 10 minutes from my home and doesn’t cost a lot makes it one of my prime takeout destinations. (And not just mines, either, based on the number of people waiting each time I’ve visited. Tip: Call ahead with your orders to avoid a wait.)

The service is always very friendly, although some times can seem frazzled when busy. But everyone waiting always seem to be very patient. Probably because they realize Geta is worth the wait.

Single Guy rating: 3 stars (satisfying value meals)

Explanation of the Single Guy Chef’s takeout rating system:
1 star = Might as well cook yourself
2 stars = Nice to know it’s an option
3 stars = Definitely will return again
4 stars = I have its number on speed-dial
5 stars = Can I live here?

Wednesday, July 18, 2007

Just Peachy—Part II

More on cooking with peaches: today I show you my favorite recipe, Peaches and Pork Stir-Fry. This was the first recipe I invented for my blog when I started last year, and it's one of my favorite when peach season comes around. Most people will typically make desserts with peaches, but I rarely eat dessert at home. So I use my fruits in savory dishes, and the taste of caramelized pork with the soy-fish sauce marinade in this recipe is such an amazing combo to the sweetness of the pork. I eat it and it really reminds me of what they mean when they talk about unami, that other level of tastes. Below is a quick demo on how to prep your peach, but it also shows you part of the cooking of this dish. Enjoy!

In the Kitchen: Peaches and Pork Stir-Fry



In this demo, I show you an easy way to skin a peach, revealing the beautiful orange-colored flesh that I use in a savory dish, my Peaches and Pork Stir-fry. You can get the complete recipe in my original post here.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Just Peachy—Part I

Today I’m cooking with peaches, one of my favorite summer fruits. Below I’m sharing a simple recipe for a salad I put together last week after a day of cooking with sea bass. I was exhausted from cooking and wanted to do something simple and easy, so I grilled a peach and added some prosciutto I had left over from one of my bass recipes. And I got this light but filling dinner salad. I garnished it with some of the chaubier cheese I got for Bastille Day. It’s a goat and cow’s milk cheese that’s soft but hard enough to shave onto the salad. Enjoy!

Grilled Peach and Prosciutto Salad

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
1 fresh peach
2 to 3 thinly sliced prosciutto strips
2 cups arugula
cheese for garnish

Balsamic vinegar dressing:
1 T dijon mustard
1 T sugar
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

Remove the pit from peach and then cut into slices. Spray or brush slices with extra virgin olive oil and place on hot grill or grill pan for about a minute to get the nice grill marks. When done, toss peaches with arugula and some of the balsamic vinegar dressing. (To make the dressing, just combine all the ingredients by whisking or blending.) Tear pieces of the prosciutto over the salad and garnish with cheese shavings such as a hard goat cheese or Parmesan cheese.

Makes 1 to 2 servings.

Pair with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.

TIP: To make cheese shavings, you can use a grater. But for a more rustic touch, get your vegetable peeler and shave along the side of a hard cheese to create your cheese garnish.

BROWN BAG IT: Living in California, I get the best picks of fresh peaches at the farmers markets. But if you buy your peaches from the grocery store and it's still hard from being picked early to be shipped, then just place them in a brown paper bag. They should ripen nicely in two to three days. (Be sure to check on it regularly and don't forget about it or else you'll have mold in your bag.)

SEASONAL FRUITS: This salad is nice and light for the summer and prosciutto pairs nicely with a lot of fruits. For other times of the year, experiment and substitute the peaches with figs, pears or apples.

Monday, July 16, 2007

The Next Food Network Star: Episode 7

Previously on TNFNS: It was an Iron Chef challenge and Paul’s intimidated by Alton Brown, so much so that he states that plum tomatoes are from the country of “Plummy.” (Not his most shining moment, but a clip that will air again and again and again. Paul’s just lucky that the season ends next week.) JAG gets a flashback of the “you disappoint me” speech from his father, and apologizes. [[spoiler]] This is probably his easiest apology to date. [[end spoiler]] It’s goodbye to party boy Paul. Tonight: It’s media day with the final three appearing with Miss Rachel Ray. And before we head into tonight’s episode, we get the ominous music and a tease that there will be a new competitor (cut to shot of the closed swinging doors). Now that’s the way to do a preview, Food Network editors! I’m left at the edge of my seat! What’s happening? Are they bringing back Paul? Let’s watch and find out, shall we?

We get the parade of Food Network stars asking “Who will be the next Food Network star?” and then the flying glass stars making way to an opening scene of dusk in Manhattan. Gosh, I’m going to miss the sound of broken glass when this show ends.

Rory wakes up and she comments in her taped interview that she wants to win so badly, as opposed to Amy who just wants a few more minutes of sleep. Funny thing: They’re the last two women in the carriage house, so why do they still have to sleep on the top of the bunk beds? What, couldn’t they move into more adult beds? You know if I were a contestant, I would be rearranging the rooms after each elimination, giving more space to moi.

Amy says she came in thinking her selling point was the fact that she lived in Paris and knows French culinary techniques, but now she’s learned that her biggest selling point is that she’s a mom and “an extremely normal person.” Hmm, I didn’t think you were all that “un-normal” Amy. I have lots of friends who are moms who love Paris. (Just like my friend who contributes to this blog called “chez” Stella. Of course Chez Stella has been too busy being a mom to blog any recent posts since the beginning of this year! ;-)

JAG says he’s come a long way from a boy growing up getting beaten up on his way home to see what his mom was cooking. I don’t know what to say about that. How can you comment on a poor kid who gets beaten up just because he wants to eat his mom’s cooking? And why am I not surprised that JAG got into fights when he was a kid? He’s so scrappy.

The final three linger in the kitchen when up the stairs come Bobby Flay. We’ve seen Bobby so often that he might as well have been the head judge like Tom Colicchio of Top Chef . He’s followed by two young women dressed typically of working professional women in Manhattan: clean lines, solid colors from Banana, framed glasses to give you that smart but sexy look. (They’re Lisa Del Colte and Carrie Welch from the Food Network’s Public Relations Department, but really, they contribute so little to this episode you really don’t need to memorize their names.) Bobby says whoever wins this competition will have his or her own show, and will be under the wings of Lisa and Carrie, the spin doctors. Carrie tells them that the first thing is to always be positive. She’s saying this at the same time while having the most serious face I’ve ever seen. (It’s clear that she’s a graduate of the Susie Fogelson School of Marketing.)
The two take the contestants to the offices of XM Satellite Radio and tell them that they’ll be interviewed on the “Ron and Fez” Show. OK, so I don’t have satellite radio and I rarely listen to radio since I don’t commute in a car. So I don’t know Ron or Fez. I’m just hoping Fez is some cute fuzzy Muppet.

Amy is up first and turns out Ron and Fez are just two typical talk show DJs. No Muppet in sight. They challenge Amy to make something out of their tray of food, and I think they’re pretty generous to call what’s on the table food. It’s really junk food, mostly doughnuts and breakfast things, and a few apples and oranges. Amy grabs a bagel and some luncheon meat and cheese and puts it in the microwave. Ron and Fez are not impressed, but Amy throws in a plug for the show saying she will be doing more “fancy-shmancy” cooking on the show instead of what just came out of the microwave. I give Amy’s radio interview a B+. (We also learn during the interview that her husband is French, which explains the living in Paris and constant talk about French cooking.)

JAG is up next and for his challenge he slices up an apple with what looks like a pocket knife and cuts a doughnut in half. Then he drizzles orange juice over the whole thing. (Whoever came up with this radio challenge should be shot. It is so boring. What kind of food did they think people could create?) Let’s just cut to the drama. Ron and non-Muppet Fez ask what kind of show JAG wants, and he talks about his Latino-Caribbean cuisine and how that’s not represented on TV. He just opened the door wide open for the line of questioning focused on why Latin cuisine is not represented on Food TV. Fez goes in for the kill and asks if JAG thinks Latin cuisine is “misrepresented on the Food Network.” (I think he meant to say “not represented.”) JAG does a nice save and says it’s not represented as much as it could be, so that’s why he’s here. I give his interview a B-.

They end with Rory and she gets the question of whom she thinks she matches up better with for the final two. Rory says it’ll be easier to beat Amy, so she would rather be matched up with her than with JAG who may get the “cultural” vote. I think that’s a broad generalization on Rory’s part that JAG will corner the Latino vote just because of his ethnicity. Anyway, her interview borders on the potentially sensitive racial vote discussion, as well as the smackdown on Amy the Pushover. For her challenge, Rory does a weird fortune cookie, honey, apple mush that she calls Asian nachos. Ha! Courting the Asian vote, Rory? She gets a D (which I bet is not her first).

The three head back to the Food Network studios where they meet Matt Coppa, the entertainment director of Star Magazine. Isn’t Star like the Enquirer? WTF? They couldn’t get any food writer from the New York Times or even bring back the Gourmet editors like they keep bringing back the same guest judges? Anywho, there’s also a photographer who’s going to do a photo shoot of the three.

Coppa interviews JAG first and asks him what he thinks about the two other remaining contestants. JAG catches on that this may be a trick question and doesn’t want to mess up like he just did on the radio show, so he diplomatically says that they’re all winners. Throughout the interview, JAG has this weird persona where he looks uncomfortable sitting there for an interview, like he’s at the principal’s office. He’s also very reticent to talk about his past, trying to steer away from too many personal questions and just focusing on the food. He’s off to the photo shoot and of course you know he hams it up for the camera and says he loves the taste of stardom.

Rory’s turn to interview and you can tell Coppa has a crush on Rory, leading off with the question that she’s an attractive woman and whether she thinks she’ll be taken seriously as a chef despite her good looks. I initially thought this was a slightly offensive question from Coppa (and as a former journalist, I consider it a stupid question), but now I think maybe he’s playing stupid and trying to throw Rory off with a sexist question. Rory gives the typical answer that looks shouldn’t make a difference in cooking, and then she goes off and does the sexy model poses with her “rack” of meat. This segment is wrong on so many levels.

Finally, extremely normal Amy talks about missing her family and finds inspiration from her working mom. BTW, Amy totally got a terrible stylist for the shoot because she has some weird hairdo that almost looks like her curls are shaped into horns. She doesn’t look normal at all.

Bob Tuschman, Susie Fogelson and Bobby Flay meet with the PR spin duo and Matt Coppa of Star Magazine for a debrief. The PR duo gives Amy high marks on the radio show, JAG was too laid back, and they say Rory screwed up in the interview, falling for all the traps like dishing on her fellow competitors. The judges ask Matt for his thoughts, and he loves Rory, of course, who he says has a lot of life. JAG sidestepped questions and Amy is the most poised and genuine. Basically, this first 15 minutes of the episode are so boring that I apologize for even recapping it with such detail.

Commercials. Snapple Earl Grey tea. You know what? I brew my own iced tea every week and sometimes use Earl Grey with Lavender. So why do I need this?
The three finalists meet Bobby who tells them they will be demonstrating their signature dish on a live taping of Rachel Ray’s talk show. And you can tell Bobby is pumping up Miss Rachel Ray, who is treated as the queen of the Food Network (with probably Emeril as the king). Bobby says “there’s no one bigger than Rachel” and calls her “the fabulous Rachel Ray.” Yawn.

They all go to the green room and Amy interviews that “we just get settled in and then you hear that voice.” Of course, she’s referring to Rachel Ray who comes in to meet the three. (I know what Amy’s talking about when she says “that voice.” On the weekends I set my television to automatically turn on to the Food Network because Rachel Ray’s 30-minute show is on in the early hours and that voice motivates me to get up out of bed just to change the channel. Awww, come on, tell me you don’t agree. Hey, who threw that bottle of EVOO at me! ;-)

Miss Ray tells the three that she’s not going to give too much advice, but then goes into telling them about talking about their culinary point of view and to be sure to tell stories because anyone can cook—pointing dramatically to herself. (I have to admit, her self-deprecating manner is appealing.)

Rachel Ray opens her show, which I’ve never watched. Backstage, the production manager Veeda is taking Amy to her mark. And I have to say, this Veeda person is great at pumping up the guests before they go on stage. She’s playing with Amy and encouraging her. I want my own Veeda with me every time I’m about to speak in front of an audience, which is basically never. So no Veeda in my pocket for me, I guess.

Amy is up first and she’s making an egg dish baked in ramekins. She loses me because first, she says the words “fancy-shmancy” twice and she already said it once earlier in this episode and that’s already her limit. Then she says something that sounds like “ca-ca” and I ask myself, did she just talk about poop? But she’s referring to some fancy-shmancy French term for the technique of baking eggs in ramekins. Anywho, she throws in butter, cream and parmesan cheese with the eggs in the ramekins. Oooh, that is sooo French and will kill you if you eat this every day. She makes some prosciutto and says another term that I don’t know as well. Sounded like “pepperon,” and something about the Basque region of France, which is close to Spain. Oh hell, it basically looks like a hash and she throws it on the side of her ramekins with the eggs and it looks like she doesn’t know how to plate her dish because half the pepperon or whatever is in the ramekin and eggs and the other half is falling all over the side. I don’t know. I didn’t really like this demonstration from Amy. I thought she seemed relax but I just got lost with the food information. She should have stuck with making a good French omelet.

Later backstage, Amy is all emotional that she was able to complete all the challenges on this show and that she’s gotten this far. Wow, she sounds like she’s already done and ready to leave now that she’s completed her goal of finishing all the challenges. What, you don’t want your own show Amy?

In the teaser right before the commercials, the Food Network editors give us more about the ending, offering up a clip of Bob Tuschman talking to someone about “rumors.” Ooooh, can it be something related to JAG and all the talk about his military background? You know, I only heard about it through the person who commented on one of my earlier posts and I never really looked into it that much myself. But I bet that’s it.

Back from commercials, Rory is up next with Miss Ray. She starts talking about “blue-collar cooking” and about her cowboy boyfriend. She’s talking a lot and you know what? She’s hardly talking to Miss Ray, who is just standing on the side like some assistant. Miss Ray has to force herself into the presentation by asking Rory questions about the steak that she’s making. Anywho, she’s grilling steak and making what she calls “chuckwagon potatoes” that are for the cowboys in her life. It’s filled with potatoes, bacon and butter and it looks like a potato salad but she’s just mixing them up and placing them on a tray and roasting everything in the oven. My arteries are hardening just watching all the red meat and butter used in this episode. Rory makes her typical sugar-grilled asparagus and she finishes off her dish with smoked cheese on top of her potatoes that gets Miss Ray all hot and bothered. Oh boy , Rory just added more butter on top of her meat. She then high-fives Miss Ray and feels like a winner.

Break for commercials and the ominous voice says “the competition takes an unexpected turn.” During the commercials, the Food Network does this weird promo where they just show the words of a quote with Paul’s voice over saying “I’m going to win. I’m going to win.” What does this mean? Why Paul? We know he’s gone so he’s not going to win. Am I right, and is he coming back? Or are the Food Network just rubbing salt in Paul’s wounds? Now that’s just mean.

Finally JAG is up with Miss Ray and he’s all scary-nervous back stage. But once he’s in front of the camera, he’s a total ham and he’s busting out his “EVOO Red,” which he says is olive oil with some kind of seed. I don’t know what it is but he says it’s the poor man’s saffron. He cooks some Spanish onions and then adds lobster. He’s basically doing a stir-fry. Right now he’s waving something called “culantro” that looks like big-leaf cilantro. Miss Ray asks where she can get it because she’s never seen it at her market, and JAG doesn’t really answer her. Eventually he says that you can just replace it with a bit of cilantro. Now he’s adding broccolini. His demo is going so fast and as usual, he’s using all sorts of ingredients, ooops, more butter from him. He adds some pasta to everything and tosses it, and he really cuts it to the very last seconds of his five minutes to finish and plate his dish. The last-minute rush drives the audience wild.

Rachel Ray does a debriefing for the judges, but she basically says that she loves them all and it’s going to be a hard decision for the judges. Susie is beaming like a proud mom saying she’s happy they all did so well.

Off to commercials and the ominous voice says there’s “a revelation that changes everything.” Forget about the commercials, let’s get back to the show.

So it’s the evaluation and elimination round. This is the final one and the last person will be eliminated before the remaining two go up to the public vote.

The critique goes something like this: Rory didn’t do well on the radio show because she dissed her competitors, but she was very down-to-earth on Rachel Ray even though she ignored Miss Rachel. Still, the judges are worried about her inconsistency in cooking. For Amy, they thought she did well on the radio interview but was back to her old French snobbery on Rachel Ray with her demo filled with too many fancy-shmancy terms. Amy tells the judges that she really is the Gourmet Next Door and not “snooty French girl.” And finally, JAG. He’s the best cook of the three, but the most raw when it comes to his TV skills. Bobby calls him “unpredictable,” but says that JAG captivated the audience on the Rachel Ray show, and Susie says she wants to “flipping” learn more about JAG. And this is where the foreshadowing goes into full gear as JAG says it’s difficult to talk about his past and how he just wants to focus on the future.

What? Commercials again? The ominous voice in the teaser says this time: “If you think you know what’s going to happen next, think again.” Damn you ominous voice, stop being a tease! And stop with the commercials. Just get on with it.

Susie does this weird speech about how she’s all choked up over how brave the three finalists are. Whatever, just tell us who’s going home.

Bobby tells Rory she’s the first to be named a finalist, which is a surprise that it’s now between Amy and JAG because I really thought Amy was the front-runner. Bob Tuschman names the second finalist as ... Oh. My. GAWD, it’s JAG and Amy’s gone. What? JAG, the Jekyll and Hyde of TNFNS? Amy’s all teary-eyed but glad that she’s gotten this far.

Wait, there’s some big block lettering on my television. Hold on while I go read it. It looks important. “Several months ago,” blah blah blah “Food Network learned” blah blah “misrepresented facts” what da? “JAG.” The block letterings go on to say that JAG had said he served in Afghanistan and graduated from culinary school when in fact neither is true. These were the rumors that have been posted for the last few weeks on the discussion boards and apparently have now risen to the level of the Food Network and its crack background checking team.
So apparently the media has been asking JAG about these discrepancies in his background since the show started airing, but JAG hasn’t been very upfront so the Food Network flew him out to New York to get to the bottom of everything.

Cut to JAG in a plain, light blue shirt coming out of the elevators and into the Food Network hallways. He’s voicing over about how it’s awesome being in the final two but it comes with a higher-level of scrutiny. There’s press and people going into his personal life, he says. JAG enters a room and Bob and Susie are sitting there waiting for him.

Bob talks about the rumors circulating and says they’re giving JAG the chance to clear the air. JAG says it’s very hard to talk about because this is something he’s dreamed about all his life. But basically he fesses up that he never graduated from culinary school and he never went to Afghanistan. Bob looks very sympathetic but Susie looks like she’s not buying any of this contrite demeanor from JAG. In the end, JAG says he’s withdrawing from the competition. He says he can’t continue because he may not be mature enough to meet the requirements to be the next Food Network star. And ironically, that may be the most mature thing he’s done all season.

Susie says some weird thing about how unfortunately they will be happy to accept his resignation—like it was all up to him. Bob says that JAG will have many more doors open up to him. Hugs are exchanged and JAG does his “what if?” interview. And then he walks away wearing sunglasses and a cap like he’s going to try and avert the damn paparazzi outside, who’s dogging him like Lindsey Lohan coming out of rehab.
Cut to Rory, who says she got a phone call saying she needed to fly to New York. There she meets Bob and Susie waiting for her in the studio kitchen and she’s told JAG has withdrawn from the competition, and her mouth totally drops and you see even more of her teeth, if that can be any more possible. “I don’t even know what to say,” is all she can say. Bob says she’s got a new competitor and Rory turns around and in walks ... AMY! Yay, our snooty French girl is back! Rory’s all “hi honey” and they exchange big hugs, right before they realize that they’re now going to have to duke it out to win the viewers’ votes. Bob says Amy was an awesome competitor and glad she’s back. (I really felt they made a mistake and it really should have been between these two in the first place. I think the Food Network producers were taking the easy route in trying to do a boy-girl finale.)

Next week, it’s the season finale. What? We only have two days to vote? Guys, go online and go and vote now. (And don’t let me influence you, but I already voted for Amy.) In the final episode, all the contestants are back and we get behind-the-scenes footage and I’m sure it’ll all be very boring as we just wait to see the crowning of Amy’s “Gourmet Next Door.”

What I Would Have Done: My Signature Dish
If I were on the Rachel Ray show, I’d probably make as my signature dish my favorite Korean-style Ma-Po Tofu. I listed this as one of my three signature dishes in my TNFNS application (the other dishes were my sticky chicken and Asian-style steamed fish recipes). I consider this ma-po tofu dish my signature dish because it’s simple and easy to make, which is what I would have emphasized on my show, Cooking With The Single Guy—simple but interesting recipes for the single person looking for something quick to make after coming home from work. But it’s also my signature dish because I took a traditional Chinese recipe and added a twist to it with the kim chi. So I’m all about combining ingredients that people wouldn’t think about if it weren’t for me. ;-)

The Next Food Network Star season finale airs at 9 p.m. this Sunday, and repeats at the same time the following Thursday. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Crazy Chocolate Crowds

Yesterday I went elbow-to-elbow with chocolate lovers at Fort Mason in San Francisco, and I don't even love chocolate. This is what I do now that I started this blog. It actually was an interesting event, checking out the various chocolate makers and brands and tasting all that free samples. Even though I don't live and die with chocolate (unlike other people at the fair who seemed to go crazy at the mere sight of the dark brown stuff), I do appreciate the subtle flavors, history, and now-known health benefits of chocolate.

The San Francisco Chocolate Salon continues today (July 15). If you're willing to part with the $20 admission (I thought it was worth it; just figure you're paying a $1 for each premium chocolate nibble), then it's worth checking out. Just be warned of the sugar rush and crash that'll occur. Or you can just read the rest of this post to see what was featured: (BTW, the photo above are the colorful truffles of Cosmic Chocolates. Although they were very pretty, they were too sweet for my tastes.)

Here's the entrance to the SF Chocolate Salon. It was actually in one of the smaller rooms at Fort Mason instead of the Festival Pavilion. So that meant even more packed crowds in the tiny room.
See what I mean about the crowds? This was the front room of the chocolate salon after you walk in. You can't even see the chocolate tables!
One of the first tables in the main room as you enter is local favorite Charles Chocolates of Emeryville. They had several of their standbys for tasting (such as my favorite mojito hearts). One of its new features for the fall is this new design for its beautiful chocolate boxes. I think their boxes are so beautiful, and it seems a shame to eat it. But I'm sure whomever you give it to won't have a problem breaking into it.
This is gourmet chocolate from a Belgian maker called NewTree and distributed locally by people in San Anselmo. They have rich chocolate bars that are infused with flavors to represent an emotion like "Blush," "Renew," "Pleasure," and "Rejoice." The above is called "Sexy" and it had this energizing kick of ginger flavor that is supposed to get you all stimulated. It's a good thing I was by myself when I tasted it. ;-)
These are chocolate truffles from a company called TeaRoom. The friends I were with loved the Earl Grey flavor, but when I tried it, it was just OK. They had another interesting one called "Intense Vanilla" but it tasted like a blob of white chocolate. This was not my favorite table.
These are chocolate bars from a Seattle-based maker called Theo Chocolates. It claims to be the first U.S. chocolate makers using Fair Trade-certified and organic cocoa beans. But as I walked around, there were other tables also promoting fair trade and organic. So I don't know who was first. But I do know Theo's chocolates are amazingly rich tasting. They have infused bars (pictured left) called 3400 Phinney (which is their Seattle address) and regular bars of varying degrees of cocoa, pictured right.
This company called Grand Avenue Chocolates have these amazing chocolate sauces. They were tasting the dark chocolate Cabernet sauce that was so pleasant. It didn't have a strong alcohol taste, but you can sense the dark chocolate being enhanced by the wine. It was very seductive. Unfortunately, they were not offering tastes of the white chocolate sauce which was a buttery Chardonnay infused chocolate sauce.
You got to have a chocolate fountain at a chocolate salon. This was actually at the table for Terra Nostra Organic chocolates. I didn't find their chocolates all that exciting, and you actually couldn't eat any of the chocolates from the fountain; it was just for looks. On a side note, the table next to it, Lillie Belle Farms Artisan Chocolates from Oregon had these amazing lavender caramel with fleur de sel. I think the hot thing now is to sprinkle sea salt on everything (from chocolates to ice cream) and I love salt so I'm all for that. But caramel is a bit hard to eat, IMHO, because of the whole sticking to the mouth thing. Still, it was lavender, which I love. (Also at Lille Belle, they had a smokey blue truffle, and it's called that because it has smoked blue cheese in it. My friend Vera was pushing that on all of us to try, but I just thought it was strange, even though it didn't taste too bad. Some things should just not mix.)
These are chocolate truffles from a small company called Decadent Tastes from Monterey. It emphasizes Asian-fusion flavored chocolate under the brand name L'Estasi Dolce. I loved this table! The woman was really sweet (she's looking for a distributor by the way and I was so tempted to become a chocolate distributor just so I could sell this stuff) and I loved the lemongrass-ginger truffle. Their chocolates had subtle, interesting flavors, which is what I liked. I later tried the champagne truffle and it was just as successful. If you're interested in distributing this chocolate, please give them a call. I think they deserve to be at stores. For now, they're available online.
There were demonstrations throughout the day on the main stage. This is chef Jean Marc Gorce of XOX Truffles making truffles for everyone. You should have seen the mad rush to the table as everyone grabbed a sample. Again, crazy chocolate crowds.
There were also liquor being served as a complement to the chocolate tastings. This is a big wine glass that was at the counter for Silkwood Wines from Modesto. I tried their Syrah and I have to say it had a bit of a bite from the tannins. I wouldn't recommend it.
If there was a vote for audience favorite, I would give a gold award to this table of Poco Dolce chocolates (made right here in San Francisco). They were one of my favorites because all their chocolates are finished off with sprinkles of sea salt. (See what I mean about the growing popularity of sea salt?) It creates a nice crunch when you're eating the chocolate, making you think its something like wafers or a brittle, but it's really the salt. I also heard a lecture by the guy behind Bittersweet Cafe and he said salt opens up your tasting glands, so you better appreciate flavors, like chocolate. I say it works!
I voted these guys the best dressed at the salon. Everyone at the counters were dressed in regular casual business attire, but these guys looked fitting for the environment in their chocolate-colored chefs uniforms. I thought they looked really smart. Oh, BTW, they're from Amano chocolates from Utah and they make these rich, full-flavored chocolate from beans that come straight from the grower. The Madagascar bar was very nice. They treat their beans like wine vintages, working with each crop like its own signature vintage.
These are tastings of a chocolate mousse cake by Couture Chocolates of Sacramento. The owner and pastry chef Ginger Elizabeth (cool name huh?) was there presenting her chocolates. This cake was amazing. It was hard to pick up, but you'd normally be eating it with a fork. The mousse was tasty and rich, and it had this great crunchy, light crust like a cookie wafer.
Here are beautiful, fun chocolates from Coco-luxe Confections of San Francisco. I've never heard of them, but they have such cute designs on their chocolates, such as the cookie man above. Unfortunately, the truffles, IMHO, were too sweet and mushy. The cookie man was just a big mush of white chocolate. However, the chocolate-coated peanuts on the right were amazing. They had many layers of flavors, starting with the cocoa powder on top, the peanut crunch, the slight honey flavor, finished off by a chili flavored kick. Wow.
Here's Chuck Siegel of Charles Chocolate making a big batch of iced hot cocoa. I know, sounds weird. He basically made hot cocoa and then refrigerated it, then poured it into crushed iced to make a cold drink out of it. It looked funny to drink but tasted a bit like a fudgesicle, which was my favorite treat growing up.
These beautiful chocolate truffles were under glass at this table by L'Artisan du Chocolat. That. Is. Just. Wrong. (They did offer a few truffles chopped up for tasting, but still. What a tease.)
These are toffees with almonds from Rushburn Toffee of San Francisco. I was so chocolate-out by the time I got to this table, and I'm not a big nut fan, that I was about to pass them by. Then one of the friends I was with said I had to try it, so I took one last bite and it was heavenly. It reminded me of my childhood eating Almond Roca. (Remember those?) This toffee had such a nice light crunch and great taste that it was fantastic. (Thanks Susan for pushing it on me!)
Ending any dessert like chocolate with dessert wine is always a smart choice. To end this post I'm showcasing the Essensia muscato dessert wine from Quady Winery in Madera. The Central Valley is a great source for muscat grapes, so this was an easy winner. It definitely would be a nice pairing with an after-dinner cheese and chocolate course. Yum.


Many of the above chocolates (and many more at the salon I didn't feature) can be found locally at Bittersweet Cafe or Whole Foods.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Viva la France!

Saturday is Bastille Day, which is a French national holiday commemorating the Fête de la Fédération and the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789. I’d thought I’d blog about traditional dishes served in honor of Bastille Day, but in doing some research I found that Bastille Day doesn’t have any big traditional dishes like turkey for Thanksgiving or latkes for Passover.

From what I read, Bastille Day is celebrated in France with simple foods for the outdoors. Since the holiday falls in the summer, most French nationals celebrate with a picnic, drinking Champagne and munching on cheese and fruits. So who am I to argue with the French?

I went to my nearby Whole Foods in Berkeley and checked out its cheese counter to see what French cheese would make a nice platter for Bastille Day. (Keep in mind that each Whole Foods store has its own buyer, so not every store carries the same cheese products. Other places to shop for a nice variety of French cheeses include: The Cheeseboard in Berkeley, The Pasta Shop on Fourth Street in Berkeley and Market Hall in Rockridge, Andronico’s, and Rainbow Grocery and Cheese Plus in San Francisco.)

Here’s a look at what I would recommend:

This is the Fourme D’Ambert from France. It’s a smooth, creamy blue cheese. People either hate or love blue cheese, and I think it provides a mark contrast to other cheeses you might have on your platter. It’s also probably the smelliest.

You can’t have a French cheese platter without brie?! This is the Bonhomme Normand (from Normandy) and I was just attracted to it because it had the words “double cream” in its description. You can pair it with fresh figs and toasted walnuts. Another trick I’ve seen some restaurants do with soft cheese is to drizzle honey on top. Mmmmm.

This is the Petite Basque, which is an Istara cheese. That’s a semi-hard cheese made from sheep’s milk. It’s one of the more famous cheeses from the Basque region of France.

Another hard cheese, this is the Chaubier Soignon. And what’s exciting about this is it’s a blend of goat and cow milk. It’s one of my new favorite cheeses to just slice and eat as is.

To pair with the above cheese platter, you can have some Champagne that will fit in nicely with the festive mood, or if you want something more subdued, you can try a French Chardonnay (a stronger white is better than a light white wine for cheese) or if you prefer red (which contains more of the tannins to help counteract all the fat you’re consuming) then try a Cote du Rhone, which is a milder, more middle-of-the-road red French wine.

Crazy about French cheese? Then you might want to save the date, Aug. 18, 2007. That’s when this importer called Made in France/Village Imports has a big warehouse event where the public is invited to buy tons of French cheese and other products at discounted prices. I’ve never been to these events (the warehouse is in Brisbane south of San Francisco) but it sounds interesting. (The Web site says you need an invitation, so you might want to sign up for its newsletter and maybe that’s your invitation.) To find out more, click here.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

Dish on Dining: Barracuda

Heavy on the hype, lacking on delivery
2251 Market St., San Francisco
Castro District
PH: 415.558.8567
Hours: Open 7 days for lunch and dinner

www.barracudasushi.com

When I recently ate at Barracuda on Market, I was confused by the variety of ways the restaurant described its cuisine. Is it “Japanese Brazilian”? Is it “Japa-zillian” like its business card reads? Or is it a Japanese restaurant with influences of Peru and Brazil, like how it’s described on its Web site?

Let’s call a fish a fish. Barracuda is a sushi restaurant. And oh yeah, it has a few South American-style meat dishes on the side.

Barracuda opened less than a year ago in the former Tin Pan location (there was another restaurant after Tin Pan and before Barracuda, but it lasted so short that I forgot its name already). Tin Pan was popular in the 80s among the Castro crowd for its Asian fusion dishes, and Barracuda continues the atmosphere—at least with the endless 80s soundtrack playing in the background. [[Correction: I was informed by an astute San Francisco reader that Tin Pan was actually opened in the 90s and closed about 4 years ago. That's right, it was the '90s. I must have had the '80s stuck in my mind because of the music I kept hearing at Barracuda.]]

I met my friend Cliff for drinks and a light dinner on a Thursday. Even though I had made reservations, we probably didn’t need one since the restaurant was just a quarter-full by the time we arrived at 7 p.m. The service is very friendly, and we got our party started with some specialty drinks. Cliff had some kind of gin martini and I had the cucumber martini, which I loved because it had slices of pickled cucumber and I like the sourness it added to the vodka. (Of course, my second cucumber martini later that evening wasn’t as great because it was made by another bartender, so the inconsistent is very apparent at the bar.)
I can understand why Barracuda tries to play up its Peruvian and Brazilian roots while still coming off as Japanese. Those countries both had a large migration of Japanese immigrants (about the same time the Japanese were immigrating to Hawaii and the United States), so Japanese cooking is deeply rooted in South America. But looking at Barracuda’s menu, it was primarily focused on sushi with just a sprinkling of Brazilian-inspired dishes such as ceviche, carne de pork and churassco.

Cliff’s not a big meat eater (although I forced him to split a late-night hamburger with me after a night of drinking, but that’s another blog) so we stuck with the fresh fish. We started with the tuna ceviche ($12.95), which were citrus-marinated tuna cubes on fried won ton chips. The tuna was fresh and tasty, and the plate was pretty large to share for two. And while the won ton chips were an interesting presentation, it wasn’t the sturdiest of vessels to get all the tuna in your mouth in one bite.
Next we got a combination sushi roll platter, which included the Pink Lady (soft shell crab, red tuna, red snapper with an unagi-mango sauce) and Dragon Roll (shrimp tempura, avocado and orange tobiko). This combination plate ($16.95) had the unfortunate name, IMHO, of “The Two Timer.” Cliff and I thought they could have had more positive names such as “Double Happiness” or “Pink-Dragon.” I guess they were trying to appeal to the Castro crowd. ;-p

The rolls were delicious, although nothing spectacular. They looked beautiful and colorful, as most specialty rolls do in sushi-hungry San Francisco. Cliff thought the rice wasn’t quite right and I agreed that it was just average although not as soft as some earlier reviewers complained about when Barracuda opened last year.
Our last plate was a simple sashimi dish, which is basically a nice cut of fish fillet sliced into bite-sized pieces and served plain. (In Italy, they’ll drizzle it with olive oil and call it crudo.) We ordered the sake (or salmon) sashimi ($10). The salmon was beautiful and had some nice streaks of fat (which is OK since it’s the good fat). Sashimi is always a nice, light dinner but difficult to review because all you have to check on is to make sure the fish is fresh. And it was.

Overall, Barracuda—which has two other locations in Burlingame and the Serramonte Mall in Daly City—offers decent sushi in a friendly, funky environment. (Cliff was excited to point out the color-changing plastic bamboo wall behind us, but I was not as impressed.) It has a high-profile location right on Market Street (and next to Lime) but I think it suffers a bit from the sushi saturation that is San Francisco. With so many good sushi bars around town, just adding a Brazilian (or Peruvian or Japa-zilian) twist is not enough to draw the crowds. Still, I’d probably drop by for lunch the next time I’m in the Castro, which is a neighborhood longing for a stand-out restaurant. Barracuda, unfortunately, does not step up to the plate.

Single guy rating: 2 stars (nice for lunch or drinks and munchies before the real dinner)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Barracuda Sushi in San Francisco

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

Chocolate Heaven on Earth

This weekend, chocolate lovers in the Bay Area will probably be converging at Fort Mason in San Francisco for the very first Chocolate Salon. It's a two-day event that'll include chocolate tastings and lectures by chefs speaking on cooking with chocolate. Since it's occurring on Bastille Day, the theme is "Chocolat" of course. (But you have to say it in that really arrogant French accent. Just kidding!) I'm hoping to make it out there, so maybe I'll see you around. Just look for the guy shooting pictures of the chocolate instead of tasting them! :)

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

What I Would Have Done: The Iron Chef Challenge

Today’s a bonanza of photos, recipes and postings because it was a busy time for our contestants on The Next Food Network Star, who had to make three dishes in one hour as part of an Iron Chef challenge. (Which meant a busy Monday for me since I said I'd do my home version of their challenges. Ugh.) There were two matchups with two different secret ingredients (well, not so secret if you read my recap).

I decided to do the first ingredient, which was striped sea bass. Striped bass is the largest of the sea bass, but not as famous as Chilean sea bass. With the sustainability issue of Chilean sea bass, farm-raised striped bass is a good alternative. (Pictured above is the farm-raised striped bass, sold only whole, at Whole Foods, and they’re available year-round. The above was the smallest one that I paid $15 for.)

In this post, I give you a somewhat behind-the-scenes look at my cooking process ala Iron Chef and then I’ll present my three dishes to you with my “approach.” Then you be the judge.

Also, I’ve posted the recipes to all of my Iron Chef-inspired dishes below. Enjoy!

Iron Chef America Striped Sea Bass Battle

Contestant: Chef Ben
Background: Blogger of Cooking With The Single Guy and a self-taught home cook
Cooking style: Primarily Asian, with some Italian and Mediterranean influences
Iron Chef record: 0

This is the first time I handled a whole fish, and I was glad my “sous chef” at Whole Foods helped gut and scaled my bass. Back home, I cut the fish into fillets and kept the head and tail to make fish stock later.

For my three dishes, I decided to start with an ambitious attempt at three amuse bouche similar to what I see a lot of Iron Chefs do. I decided to make a crudo, a prosciutto-wrapped bass, and a panko-encrusted bass with a sweet and sour sauce.

I started with making my crudo so that it’ll get a chance to marinate and let all the flavors blend. To the crudo I added ruby grapefruit, fleur de sel and fennel shavings. I made sure to get as much of the excess grapefruit juice into the bowl as well. Simple dish, and I was on my way.
For my prosciutto-wrapped bass, I wanted to top it with a red wine reduction. So I poured some Chianti that I had left over from dinner the other night and added a teaspoon of sugar and then started to slowly simmer the wine. I knew this would take a long time so I got this going before heading off to making my other dishes.
For my panko-encrusted bass, I wanted to make a sweet and sour sauce like a lot of Chinese dishes I ate growing up. To try something different, I decided to make the base of the sauce out of heirloom tomatoes. I sliced an heirloom tomato and drizzled it with olive oil and sea salt, then placed it in the oven to roast and get tender. Once it’s soft, I’ll transfer it to a saucepan and mush it with some broth and fish sauce to give it a Southeast Asian flair.
Here’s my panko breading station. On the lower part of the photo is an egg that’s been whisked. (I know, it’s hard to see because I used a yellow dish.) Next to the egg is a plate filled with panko bread crumbs that’s been seasoned with dried thyme and salt. Like you heard on The Next Food Network Star (and thanks to Amy), panko is a Japanese bread crumb but it’s not made from bread but is more a wheat product. I used it a lot of times whenever I pan-fry food.
Here’s my panko bass piece pan frying in some olive oil. I don’t like to deep-fry food so pan frying with a thin layer of oil is my favorite route.
This is my prosciutto-wrapped bass pan frying in some olive oil. It was really simple. I just season the piece with salt and pepper. (I still seasoned it even though you get salt from the prosciutto because I didn’t want to be accused by the judges of not having flavor, something that was the downfall of Paul.) But I made sure not to oversalt it; just a pinch for this small piece. Then I wrapped it with prosciutto (which I love) and the prosciutto served as a sealed layer to keep the fish nice and moist. I didn’t have to cook it very long. But I did have to use two utensils to roll the prosciutto-wrapped fish and hold it to make sure it had a nice even browning on all sides.

At the same time, I started on my second course, which was a miso udon noodles with striped bass. I was in such a frenzy I forgot to shoot some shots of that dish, but that’s so simple. I just warmed up some miso paste in boiling water, tossed in some shitake mushrooms and bonito flakes and added the fish. Then the udon noodles and I was good to go.
This was my final dish, which is a steam bass fillet with black bean sauce. I made this near the end because it only takes 10 minutes to steam the bass and I wanted to make sure it was moist for the judges. ;-) I added a twist to this dish by putting some heat with the serrano chili. And instead of soy sauce I used fish sauce for a lighter flavor.
It was onto the plating because presentation is part of the challenge on Iron Chef America. For my steamed bass, I created a bed using thinly sliced hot house cucumbers and pickled ginger. The pickled ginger was already purchased that way and you can get them in any Asian grocery stores. At the beginning of the hour, I thinly sliced the cucumbers and added them to the pickled ginger juice to let them marinate in time for when I was ready to serve. I thought the sweet pickled taste would help balance the heat from the chili. And then time was up. (OK, so I admit it took me longer than an hour to cook all of my three courses, probably close to 1.5 hours, but I didn’t have a sous chef and multiple burners!)

And now, I present my dishes. The chairman typically asks the guest chef what was his “inspiration to today’s secret ingredient.”

My approach was to make light dishes that would not overpower the sea bass. I borrowed a lot from my Asian background, but definitely wanted to keep it simple with minimal ingredients because my culinary approach is to cook for single people who don’t have a lot of time after work to cook a time-consuming recipe. So all of the dishes I prepared today can be done quickly but still be fancy enough to make you feel like you’re having a restaurant-style dinner.
For the first course, I did a trio of striped bass as an amuse bouche. My thinking was to highlight the different textures of the fish. First is a striped bass crudo with ruby grapefruit and fennel. The raw fish was cured with sea salt and the citrus juice, and the fennel provides a nice crunch to counter the bass and grapefruit. Next is a piece of bass that I seasoned with salt and pepper and wrapped with a prosciutto and pan-fried. Then I drizzled it with a red wine reduction. You'll see the prosciutto helps keep the flaky meat of the fish nice and moist. And finally, there’s a panko-encrusted bass, because you go to have something fried. I don't like deep fried things, so going with the light Japanese bread crumbs is a healthier route. The panko was seasoned with dried thyme and salt. Growing up, my family ordered sweet and sour fish that was often deep-fried and served covered with a sauce often made with ketchup and pineapples. So to do something in honor of that, I made a roasted heirloom tomato sauce with a bit of sugar and fish sauce. The fish is also sitting on a thinly sliced heirloom tomato.
For my second course, I wanted to do something comforting, and nothing is more comforting that udon soup, because the thickness of the noodles makes it more comforting, I think. I made a base of miso soup with bonito flakes and shitake mushrooms, then slowly poached the bass fillet and added all that to the cooked udon noodles. I garnished it with kim chi because I love kim chi (the popular spicy cabbage from Korea) and just wanted to broaden the Asian-ness of this dish and not keep it restricted to Japan.
For my final dish, I made a steamed sea bass with black bean sauce. Steaming is one of the most common ways to serve fish in Chinese families so I wanted to do something that honors that tradition. I spiced up the dish by using some serrano chili for heat, ginger, and a dash of fish sauce for a lighter feel. To counter the spiciness, I created a pickled cucumber and ginger salad as a base because I think the sweet and sour taste will help balance the heat from the chili.

So that’s my Iron Chef entries. If I were really on the Iron Chef (yeah, right), then I would have loved to go up against Iron Chef Bobby Flay because I think his style of cooking is so different than mines that it would have been interesting to see the diversity of offerings. Who knows? Maybe one day when I’m in New York, there could be a throwdown, Bobby!

Again, for recipes to any of the above dishes, look for earlier postings below or click on the “recipes” label on my blog for the bass recipes I posted in July 2007.

Trio of Striped Bass Amuse Bouche

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Striped Bass Crudo with Ruby Grapefruit and Fennel

Ingredients:
4 oz. fresh striped sea bass, cut into rough ¼-inch cubes
1 ruby grapefruit, sectioned
1 fennel bulb, thinly sliced like shavings
1 T sesame oil
1 to 2 t sea salt (fleur de sel)

Mix all of the above ingredients and let them marinate in the refrigerator for at least 40 minutes. Garnish with fennel leaves.

Makes 2 to 3 servings. Pair with a glass of sparkling wine or Champagne.

Pan-seared Bass Wrapped in Prosciutto

Ingredients:
Striped sea bass chunks
Prosciutto strips
Red wine
Sugar
Salt and pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

Start by making your red wine reduction for the sauce. Pour some red wine into a sauce pan and add some sugar. (About 1 teaspoon of sugar for every ¼ cup of wine.) Continue simmering the red wine until it thickens, about 45 minutes.

Season bass pieces with salt and pepper and then wrap each one with a strip of thinly sliced prosciutto. Warm a non-stick skillet with extra virgin olive oil over medium high heat. Then pan-sear your prosciutto-wrapped bass until brown all all sides. (About 1 minute per side.) Place on plate lined with paper towels to remove excess oil. Plate your bass and drizzle with the red wine reduction. Serve warm.

Serving size depends on number of bass pieces. Pair with a glass of Chianti or the same red wine you used to make the reduction.

Panko-encrusted Striped Bass with Roasted Heirloom Tomato Sauce

Ingredients:
6 oz. striped sea bass, cut into 2-inch strips
1 cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs)
2 t dried thyme
1 egg
Extra virgin olive oil

Ingredients for sauce:
1 heirloom tomato
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
1 T fish sauce
1/2 T sugar
¼ cup chicken broth

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.


Start by roasting your tomatoes in the oven. Cut them into slices and lay them on a roasting dish. Drizzle olive oil and sprinkle with sea salt and place in oven. Cook until soften, about 40 minutes. (If they brown slightly, even better because you’ll get a nice smoky flavor.)

When tomatoes are done, remove from oven and place in saucepan. Add broth, sugar and fish sauce and warm over medium heat to blend all the ingredients. Use a whisk to break up any tomato pieces. (If you want a smoother sauce, use a hand blender to puree your tomato. If your sauce is too wet, add some cornstarch or flour to thicken.)

For your bass, set up a dredging station with one plate that includes a whisked egg and a second plate with the panko crumbs seasoned with salt and dried thyme. Dredge your bass pieces in the egg and then in the panko plate, making sure the bread crumbs cover the entire piece. Warm a non-stick skillet over medium high heat with enough olive oil to cover the entire bottom of the skillet. Pan-fry your bass pieces until golden brown on both sides, about 1 minute per side. Place pieces on a paper-towel lined plate to remove excess oil.

Plate your fish pieces and serve sauce on the side as a dipping sauce or drizzled on top of your fish.

Makes 2 servings. Pair with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc.

Miso Udon with Striped Bass

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
3-4 oz. striped sea bass
2 T miso paste
1.5 cup water
1 t soy sauce or shoyu
1 T bonito flakes
3 Shitake mushrooms, sliced
1 packet udon noodles (about 7.25 oz.)

In a saucepan or pot, boil water and add miso paste, letting it dissolve. Then reduce to a simmer and add soy sauce and bonito flakes. Add your fish and cook until fish is done, about 10 to 15 minutes.

In a separate pot, boil water and add udon noodles. Cook per package instructions (usually 4 minutes if you got the udon from the refrigerated section). Place your noodles into a bowl. Then pour miso soup and fish into the bowl. Garnish with green onion strips and kim chi.

Makes 1 serving. Pair with a cup of genmaicha green tea.

TIP: Udon noodles can be found in the refrigerated Asian section at most California stores on in Asian grocery stores. I prefer the refrigerated packaged udon, which looks very similar to the udon I grew up with—white, thick and round. Sometimes you’ll see dried udon sold like dried pasta, but for some reason the shape isn’t as thick as tradition udon so I wouldn’t recommend them.

DRIED FISH: Bonito flakes are shavings from a dried, smoked fish in Japan and it’s one of the more common ingredients used to flavor broth. It’s also used to make dashi, which is a common broth added to miso soup. Bonito flakes are sold pre-shaved in flake form in air-tight packages at your local Japanese grocery store or Asian grocery store. If you can’t find any, you can use hondashi, which is a common brand of dried broth powder added to miso soup.

Spicy Steamed Striped Bass with Black Bean

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
6 oz. striped sea bass fillet
½ t grounded white pepper
1 T black bean sauce
½ T fresh ginger, julienned
1 Serrano chili, seeded and julienned
½ T sesame oil
1 T fish sauce

Season your fish fillet with pepper and then smear the black bean sauce on top. Place on a plate and place in a steamer. Add ginger and chili to the top and then drizzle with fish sauce and sesame oil. Steam for about 10 minute, depending on the thickness of your fillets.

Serve on top of cucumber and pickled ginger salad.

Makes 1 to 2 servings. Pair with a glass of Chardonnay.

TIP: If you want your fish to have more heat, then don’t discard the seeds in the chili and instead cut the chili in thin pieces with the seeds for that extra punch.

Monday, July 09, 2007

The Next Food Network Star: Episode 6

Previously on TNFNS: Alton Brown talks about having a relationship with a stack of glass (ouch!), JAG is lost in his world of restaurant chefs, Adrien thinks the food he’s cooking may or may not taste good and Amy wants to go home, but not really, because she’s a fighter, like Paula Abdul. So who doesn’t fight? Adrien, who’s food expertise is put into question. BUH-bye. And tonight, it’s a mini version of Iron Chef America (yay, my favorite food show) with special sous chefs (they dredge in the rejects) and Amy’s overly confident, JAG smokes the kitchen, and Bobby Flay is upset someone’s not respecting the ingredients.

Flying stars and the sound of glass shattering makes way to new scenes of New York’s Washington Square, a yellow cab and Central Park joggers (yes, there really is no where else to jog). Then we get scenes of our final four contestants getting ready: Amy looks happy waking up from bed as opposed to crying Amy from last week; JAG folds some laundry; Rory is glamming up in front of the mirror; and Paul is doing some pushups with a ball (show off).

Amy has changed her tune and she’s saying a lot of people have given up a lot for her to be on the show so she better not embarrass them anymore and make their sacrifice all for naught. So she’s got the fire in her belly.

A flirty looking Rory walks into the breakfast table getting all cocky with “game on.” JAG is commenting in his taped interview that he knows he has to simplify his cooking style for the home cooks and that he plans to pull the rug over the judges, saying that once they see he’s changed his ways and is a less complicated man and they reward him with his own show, then he’s going to JAG up his dishes again. Oooh, sinister plan Mr. Lying on My Resume Re: The Military.

The final four gets into their maroon van and heads to the Institute of Culinary Education, and Paul gets all worried that the challenge would be to teach a class. Yeah right, that would just make for scintillating television. Instead, they walk in and see Iron Chefs Bobby Flay and Cat Cora (in their typical ice man-game on Iron Chef pose) and they all know what’s coming up in the next hour. Everyone’s a bit nervous about the idea of coming up with dishes based on a secret ingredient, except for one guy: JAG, the chef de cuisine at a restaurant. He’s all JAGged up (oh my, he’s got me doing it now) and he can’t keep his excitement contained in that little round body of his and he’s jumping up and down like a kid at Christmas morning.

Alton Brown (hey, we just saw him last week, he’s like on extra duty overtime express) welcomes the four in his Iron Chef voice that he does when he’s hosting that show. (BTW, I looove Iron Chef. I loved the original Japanese version with its silly English dubbing, and I love the American version, mostly to see the different chefs create unique dishes. I actually don’t pay much attention to the cooking portion but my favorite segment is when they present their dishes to the judges panel and I get to hear them describe their dishes and the ingredients. Aaaah, it’s better than sex.) Alton Brown explains that there will be two Iron Chef challenges with two contestants going head-to-head using a secret ingredient. They have to make three dishes in one hour (Iron Chefs typically make five). Paul’s all nervous that the secret ingredient will be something like sea urchin or calf’s brain. Paul, I don’t think they’re going to let you use expensive ingredients for this episode.

Iron Chef Cat Cora reminds for the non-Iron Chef America viewers that they’ll be judged, just like the actual show, on three categories: taste, presentation and originality. Bobby adds that unlike Iron Chef America where the top innovative chefs in the country create unusual dishes you rarely see on restaurant menus, he says the contestant must make dishes that reflect their culinary view and be accessible to the home cook. Ooops, going to be tough for JAG, the man of 27 ingredients.

Not only do they have to make three dishes, when it’s not their turn, they’ll be providing commentary to test their food knowledge. And to be sure they don’t write it off, Alton Brown lets them know the commentary portion will count for 50 percent of their score for this challenge. (Wow, this is the first challenge with sooo many rules.)

Before they enter into battle, they each will have a sous chef and in comes failed contestants Colombe, Michael Salmon (like the fish), Adrien and big boy Tommy. The final four loves it and they’re all cheering and screaming and even though there’s a counter between the two groups, you can sense that the final four (especially Rory and Amy) are so ready to jump the counter to start slobbering over the four rejects (oh, except for Colombe, the poor thing, nobody’s excited about her and she kind of looks like she doesn’t want to be there).

So each picks his or her sous chef. Paul goes first and not surprisingly he picks Michael Salmon, who is a whiz with the knife. Amy picks Tommy because she “loves his spirit in the kitchen.” Rory picks Adrien. And JAG gets left with Colombe.

First challenge is between Paul and Rory and they do those Iron Chef graphics that are pretty cool. I can really get into this episode tonight, there’s definitely a competitive air happening, at least from the editing. The two come through a curtain and give their attempt at looking like Iron Chefs (did Paul just give a weird smirk to Alton Brown?) and Alton Brown introduces the judges.

Now, if you watch the show regularly, you know there are three guest judges and Alton Brown sometimes gives them nicknames that play on their reputation. (Not always, but sometimes.) So he feels the need to do it this time for the four judges, who include: Bob “Ice Man” Tuschman (I agree, what a cold personality); Susie “Have a Hug” Fogelson (I don’t get that, does he mean she needs a hug, which I would agree with because she can be really cold, or that she always has a hug ready, which I doubt very much because I’ve never seen her hug anyone on the show); and the Iron Chefs Cat Cora and Bobby Flay (no nicknames for them; see what I mean about sometimes?).

The secret ingredient is revealed and Alton Brown goes into mach-4 Iron Chef mode with that scary voice and the karate-chop routine. The secret ingredient for this round is “striped sea bass.” Paul, apparently not a regular viewer of Iron Chef America, doesn’t get Alton Brown’s attempts to imitate the chairman during the secret ingredient unveiling and instead thinks Alton Brown is high on caffeine or something.

They’re off and running. Rory says she’s never worked with striped bass, but the recipes are flowing out of her mind (I hope she has a net to catch them). Alton Brown is already testing the commentators (JAG and Amy) by asking JAG whether it’s a wild striped bass or farm-raised striped bass. JAG says he’s not sure but he’s guessing wild. Wrong, as Alton Brown corrects him and says it’s farmed based on the distortion of the tail and fins. JAG comments that he’s so done with Alton Brown thinking he’s Mr. Professor of Food.

Amy starts commentating on Paul using panko today to bread his striped bass instead of regular bread crumbs. Alton Brown tries to stump her by asking her how they make the panko lighter. She doesn’t know, but instead of just saying that, she goes to the box and starts reading the ingredients. Alton asks again, and this time Amy ticks off the ingredients of wheat flour, yeast and glucose, so it’s actually more of a “bread product” than bread turned into crumbs, she says. The explanation impresses the judges, especially Bobby Flay.

Commercials. Another new Food Network show (again, so many many next Food Network stars I can’t believe the winner of this show will have much promotion money left to market his or her show) this one called “Glutton For Punishment.” Looks like some crazy guy, who’s charming at the same time, goes around the country doing stupid things to himself relating to food. It’s like “Jackass” meets “Ham On The Street.”

We come back from commercial and Amy reintroduces the show, Iron Chef America-style, and she’s really on top of her game this week. The intro is flawless and she even throws in at the end a martial arts pose and scary Iron Chef America voice for good measure.
Paul is making ceviche (hmmm, I probably would have done that too) and Rory is really focused on her cooking with Adrien. Oh, JAG is getting all JAGgy as he’s jumping up and down, again like a kid on Christmas morning (how tired are you getting of this metaphor?). Alton Brown asks him what’s up, does he have some great insight about kitchen stadium to share with the audience? And goofball JAG says he forgot what he was going to say. But at least he saves himself by noting that Rory is reducing some chicken broth and how you shouldn’t add salt in the chicken broth while reducing or else it’ll concentrate the salt flavor and you’ll end up with a salt lick. Or what I would imagine to be horse food.
Alton Brown comments that Rory’s station looks like a Texas tornado went through it. He counts down to the last 60 seconds. Paul is all excited about his ceviche, which he puts into a pineapple half (cute presentation) and he’s confident that he’s going to win this challenge over Rory. (Food Network editors loooove their obvious foreshadowing.)

Rory and Paul plate at the very last minute, and Alton Brown says time’s up. Applause, applause, everyone’s hugging each other, Paul does some weird dance, and then off to the judges’ table.

Rory presents first, starting with a pan-seared sea bass with sugar-grilled asparagus and fried leeks on top. The presentation is this oddly ugly yet beautiful dish. Ugly because the coloring is kind of all brown, but beautiful because it’s like a beautiful dirty lake. You know, it’s dirty inside but the tranquility of it all raises it to a new level of beauty. The judges are digging it. Bob can’t believe this beautiful dish came out of that messy kitchen.

Her second dish is striped bass wrapped in jalapeno and bacon and deep-fried in a beer batter. Again, the judges love it. Bob loves the beer batter idea and Cat Cora loves the flavoring. Rory comments on tape that Bobby loves her dishes too and she’s all excited.)
For her third and final dish, Rory made a striped bass Napolean with balsamic vinegar that she sliced thinly and then baked in an oven. Cat Cora says the baking probably was a bad idea for fish because it tasted tough. Bobby had high hopes for the dish, but he thinks Rory “over thought” the fish. But Rory is happy overall with her dishes.

Paul presents next and he’s talking about pool party food that’s cheap, to go with his show idea of “Party Planning On A Budget.” His first dish is the ceviche with pineapple and Bob says he thought of summer right away when he saw it. Susie is impressed by his explanation of his culinary view. But Bobby goes back to the food and says it needed more seasoning (salt I bet) and fellow Iron Chef Cora agrees.

For the second dish, he baked striped bass with blackberries and chives. Again, flavor is an issue. Bob says other than the blackberries, he didn’t taste anything. Susie says nothing except “just OK.” (Ah, we see why you’re a judge, Susie, for your insightful observations.) Bobby says “if you come to cook in my kitchen, the first thing I would do is send you home with a spice rack.” Yay, take-home door prizes at Bobby’s house!

For his third and final dish, Paul fried striped bass with panko with caramelized onions and balsamic vinegar. This dish has more flavor, but the burnt caramelized onions ruined it. Paul comments that he thinks he got a score of “85” (that’s a B for you, BTW, Paul) and he’s hoping the other people will get “84.” So he’s hoping for a close race. Yep, hope is so important for you now Paul. So important. (My attempt at foreshadowing.)

Commercials. People are using their Visa to pay for a cup of coffee or a doughnut. Are we getting so lazy that we can’t carry cash anymore, or is a cup of coffee getting so expensive that you need to charge it? Discuss.

Now it’s Amy and JAG’s turn. Amy’s all nervous that she’s going up against the guy who loves Iron Chef and is the fastest cook she’s seen. Don’t get all insecure on us again, Amy. Alton Brown lets the two know that their secret ingredient is chicken. (Oh, Iron Chef did this challenge before.) You can tell JAG’s all disappointed that he didn’t get sea urchin or calf’s brain. He’s all like, “I can do a hell of a lot of things with chicken, but chicken? It’s simple and they don’t go good together.” Don't go good together with what? Vegetables? Spices? Barbeque sauce? How do you cook regularly with chicken, JAG? I guess we’re about to find out.

They grab their chicken and get to their counter. JAG, who’s the fastest cook ever, doesn’t seem to be cooking so fast. He’s basically writing out his menu with Colombe looking on just waiting to do something. Amy’s running back and forth with chicken and gets Tommy carving out the thighs and legs.

JAG gives Colombe potato duty. Both regular and sweet. He figures that’ll keep her busy for awhile and out of his way.

Rory commentates on JAG’s planned menu. Paul is checking out Amy’s plans as well, but he’s already nervous about commentating for Alton Brown who’s about to call him out on Paul’s food expertise. He tells Alton that Amy’s making a Moroccan stew, and Alton asks what’s Moroccan about it. Paul just repeats that Amy’s cooking the stew with fennel and some spices that he didn’t get. The judges are not impressed, and neither are the people of Morocco.

Alton Brown then picks on Rory by asking her whether JAG (who’s sprinkling some flakes on his chicken) is using red chili flakes or pepper. (It’s obvious that it’s red chili flakes because of the color and size and that he didn’t have to grind them.) Rory tries to show that she’s smart by saying chili and pepper come from the same pepper family. Wrong, corrects Professor Brown. Rory then tells us that her strategy for commentating is that if she doesn’t know the answer, she’s going to be sarcastic and quick-witted and hope she can joke her way out of it. So this is when she does her “kids stay in school” public service announcement and we find out that she dropped out at aged 16.

Amy’s dicing some onions and I can see on her fingers some dried blood. I can’t tell if she cut herself (which she’s done before) or if it’s chicken blood. Either way, it’s not very appetizing watching her with messy hands. Don’t these people know how to handle poultry?

Paul’s getting grilled by Alton Brown again, this time on a can of tomatoes that Tommy is opening up for Amy’s dish. This is how it goes:

Alton: “Paul, what’s in that can?”
Paul: “Tomatoes.”
Alton: “What kind of tomatoes?”
Paul: “Plum.”
Alton: “Where are they from?”
Paul: “Plummy.”

Ah yes, the country of Plummy, just south of Turkey and east of Chicken by The Sea.

After some help from Alton to read the label, Paul struggles to say that those tomatoes are San Marzano tomatoes from Italy. All the judges look mad at Paul.

JAG is grilling chicken and of course, all the chicken skin is burning. It’s causing a lot of smoke, but he assures everyone that the burnt skin will be coming off. (I don’t get it, if he’s going to take off the skin, how does the charring really affect the taste?) Alton Brown comments about how Iron Chef America always uses those fake smoke to enhance the lighting like some rock concert. But today the fake smoke comes courtesy of JAG’s burning chicken fat. All the judges look like they’re suffocating, and of course the smoke alarm goes off, which gets all the judges into a frenzy with three of them standing up clapping sarcastically and Iron Chef Cat Cora sitting down giving the two thumbs down. Bobby yells: “JAG, way to grill.” Bobby, you’re a riot.

Rory commentates that all the hullaboo over the smoke alarm is distracting JAG and he may fall behind in his cooking.

Commercials. The wig-wearing M&Ms are back and they’re still creepy.

Back to the kitchen, JAG removes the burning chicken from the grill. Speaking of crash and burn, Paul is trying to do the welcoming to recap what’s happening for the home viewer and it’s like watching a slow crash off the side of the road as he’s messing up his words and trying to do it again and again. He keeps trying to read his notebook with his script, but it’s just not helping. Oh Paul, let’s just move on already.

Rory, on the other hand, is giving Alton a recap of what dishes JAG is done cooking, and she misses an ingredient in one of the dishes which Professor Brown has discovered by doing a surprise walk-over. “You didn’t tell me about the bacon,” he says to Rory as he walks off with disdain. Rory flips the cute girl switch on and says to him: “I didn’t have time (to tell you), you’re always talking all the time.” Oooh, this creates a buzz among the judges who are coming to Alton Brown’s defense by putting down Rory’s sad attempt to be flirtatious.

Alton Brown gives the 60-second warning. JAG’s busy chopping chives and red bell pepper. Amy’s tasting her stew and loving it.

Amy is up first at the judges’ panel. Her first dish is her Casbah Lollipop, which is a chicken wingette made to look like a drumstick by pushing up the meat to the end of the bone. She spiced it with some cinnamon and smoked paprika. It actually is a very elegant presentation. Cat Cora loves the cinnamon, reminding her of her mother’s cooking, but both she and Bobby Flay agree it needed just a tad bit more flavoring.

Her second dish is Family-Style Stuffed Chicken with Mushrooms and Goat Cheese served with fingerling potatoes that’s been cut thin and sauteed in butter to become crispy. She says she used crimini mushrooms to make the dish with ingredients you can find at the store. Bob thinks it’s like a Sunday Night Dinner, and Susie is loving it. Again, another very pretty dish presentation-wise.

Her final dish is the Moroccan Chicken Stew. Cat Cora thinks it’s a home run, and Bob feels like he’s gone to the Casbah. All the judges give her positive comments, and Amy now feels like she can win this thing.

JAG presents his food to the judges, and he tells the judges about his attempts to do his Latino Fusion style but make it simple for the home cook. His first dish is his grilled chicken and goat cheese won ton with bacon and shallots with balsamic vinegar. The vinegar overpowers the dish, so much so that even Susie Folgeson has a hard time talking. It sounds like her throat is all puckered.

JAG says in his taped interview that he’s not used to people “dogging” his food. JAG, you’re so street. Mean JAG is starting to come out.

For his second dish, he wanted to experiment with chicken soup the way his mom would do. So he said he made a Caribbean chicken soup with white bean and cilantro. Bobby wants to know what makes it Caribbean. He goes back and forth a bit with JAG trying to get the Caribbean elements, and in the end JAG admits it’s not really Caribbean but just chicken soup with white bean and cilantro. Susie notes that she got a big piece of charred chicken skin in her soup, and JAG apologizes. In his mind, he’s so ready to leave the studio and cry.

The last dish is a grilled chicken with saffron cream sauce. Bobby’s asking him about his approach to simplicity and JAG says he just doesn’t want to overwhelm the home cook. Cat Cora is not digging this dish, saying the saffron sauce is too overwhelming. Bobby says he thought for sure JAG would crush this competition. JAG says he held back for the home cook. Cat Cora says that even if he has just four ingredients to use, he has to make the most of them. JAG is about to burst into tears. He’s disappointed that two chefs he respects are dogging his food. He feels like he got the “I’m disappointed in you” speech from his dad. Gosh, I hope the Food Network psychologist is on hand to deal with JAG’s breakdown.

Back from commercials, JAG does break down and he’s in his top bunk crying about how he had to sit and hear the judges say his food stinks. Paul is there comforting him, trying to get him back in the game. JAG is crying that he should have been true to himself. Yes, that’s a lesson we all can learn from you, JAG. Be true to yourself.

The four go down to face the judges. Basically, everyone loved Rory’s flavorful food and her real food for real people. And Paul’s food was not as flavorful. Bob talks about their attempts at commentating, and they both got it wrong with no food information and too many silly jokes. Paul says he has a disadvantage because he didn’t go to culinary school. (You know, you don’t have to learn about ingredients at culinary school with all the food shows and food magazines around.) They both try to make excuses, but Bobby Flay reminds them that this is the Food Network and food’s the most important thing. (Hey, that’s like Simon Cowell saying American Idol is all about the singing talent.)

Between Amy and JAG, the judges give a “close to perfect” grade to Amy and they pile on the praise. JAG, not so much, and Susie can tell he’s down. She says it’s hard to watch him this way (maybe she’s afraid mean JAG will pop up again). Bobby Flay says again that they were all positive that JAG would have crushed the competition, but now wonders if he became overwhelmed. JAG apologizes again.

Amy is named the winner, both in the cooking competition and the commentating. Bob asks again if she still wants to leave like last week, and Amy says emphatically this time that the answer is no, she wants to stay. Bob says he’s glad she stuck around.

They send Amy off as the winner of this challenge. Soon after, Rory joins her, leaving Paul and JAG to face more questions. The judges can’t decide who should go so they each give them a few seconds to state why they should stay.

After the commercials, Paul goes up first saying he demonstrated that he’s an entertainer and that he’s smart, can think on his feet, and has controlled his freakish side. JAG speaks from the heart and says all he can offer is what they see before him, all verite. But he says he loves food and that’s all what he’s about.

The judges send them away so they can discuss, ala Top Chef. They go up and tell the two girls that no decision has been made and they had to plead for their lives. The girls are shocked, prompting Amy, in typical mom fashion, to say, “Holy Macaroni.”

In the judges room, they say JAG is the most passionate about food. Bobby says he’s either really passionate or will win an Academy Award.

They bring the two back in and Bob says that this is officially the hardest decision they have to make, compared to every week in the past when he’s said that this was the hardest decision they faced. Whatever Bob. Susie delivers the news that the next person moving on to the next round is JAG, sending Paul back to West Hollywood.

Paul doesn’t seem surprised, and although he seems extremely disappointed, he tries to leave with some grace. It’s a sad goodbye and he hugs Amy, who’s crying her eyes out. JAG is saying he’s the closest friend he ever had. Paul says in his interview how JAG told him he loves him (I’m sure in a very bro-mance kind of way) and Paul says same here. Paul says he’s learned that it takes a lot of hard, long work to be a Food Network star.

Next week, Miss Rachel Ray finally makes her appearance. Well, more like the final three makes an appearance on her show and they all cook something. JAG is seeking redemption and he works the audience. And we’re all getting closer to the public voting for the Next Food Network Star. Are you ready?

Tomorrow: See what I would have done in the Iron Chef America’s striped sea bass challenge.

The Next Food Network Star airs at 9 p.m. on Sunday, and repeats at the same time Thursday. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.

Sunday, July 08, 2007

They Grow Em Small in South Africa

My local Safeway has some exotic fruits and vegetables sometimes, as they try to compete with Whole Foods and Andronicos. When I was shopping just now, I saw these baby pineapples from South Africa. I grew up with pineapples in Hawaii and the only time I saw them this small was when they were cut prematurely from the pineapple plant. I don't know if that's the same thing that happened here. In Hawaii, when they were cut prematurely, they weren't that sweet. Not sure if that's the same with this variety from South Africa. It's about 5 inches tall and you can see how small when compared to its label. They were selling for $3.99 each. I think they would be more decorative for a fun summer dinner table than as something juicy to eat. Cute though.

Saturday, July 07, 2007

Cooking With Curry

I finally got around to making a Panang curry dish. I first tried this at a dinner at my friend Jessie's place and just fell in love with this particular style of curry. Jessie made it with crab, which was delicious. But it's not crab season, so I made the curry with chicken and kabocha squash. (The kabocha squash actually isn't in season either, but I found one at my local Safeway from Mexico and I just felt it would be a nice ingredient for this curry, and it was!) It may feel hot to eat curry, but it's actually getting a bit cold around here so the evenings are nice for a dish like this. If it's too hot where you are, then archive this recipe for the fall! Enjoy!

Panang Curry with Chicken and Kabocha Squash

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
1 lb. chicken breast, chopped into equal pieces
1 kabocha squash, small (about 1 lb.), skinned and diced into cubes
1/2 sweet onion, diced
1 garlic clove, minced
1 T Panang curry
1 kaffir lime leaf, chiffonade (optional)
1 T fish sauce
1 T light brown sugar
1 T sesame oil
1 12-0z. can coconut cream
2-3 T canola oil
pepper and salt for taste

Boil a pot of water (add salt like you would for cooking pasta) and cook squash until almost tender, about 5 minutes. Pour into colander and rinse with cold water. Set aside.

Heat oil in large skillet over medium high heat and add chicken to brown both sides. About 1 to 2 minutes each side. Remove chicken from skillet and set aside.

In same skillet, add some more oil and saute garlic and onion over medium heat until onion is translucent. About 2 minutes. (Do not brown your garlic.) Add curry paste and heat for about 30 seconds to release the aroma. Then add 3/4 of the coconut cream and stir to blend the cream and curry paste. Reduce heat to low and continue cooking until you see red oil from the curry paste rise to the top. Add the rest of the cream along with sugar and fish sauce. Return the chicken and squash to the skillet and blend all the ingredients together and cook covered on low heat for about 5 to 10 minutes to heat through everything. Serve warm. Garnish with thinly sliced kaffir lime leaf or a sprig of cilantro.

Makes 3 to 4 servings. Serve with cilantro-jasmine rice.

Pair with a glass of Riesling.

TIP: I got a kabocha squash to make this dish, and it came from Mexico since it's not really kabocha squash season. You can substitute for other seasonal ingredients such as new potatoes, sweet potatoes, or summer squash. Just be sure to understand how long those ingredients will cook because you don't want to overcook them and make them soft. They should be cooked to tenderness.

THAI CURRY: Panang curry is a bit more spicy of the different Thai-style curries (mild ones include the green curry). You can find a wide selection at Asian grocery stores and I find the paste works best. Keep your container stored in your refrigerator after opening.

Thursday, July 05, 2007

Dish on Dining: Perbacco

Rustic Italian with Refined Tastes
230 California St., San Francisco
Financial District
Hours: Mon.–Thu., 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.; Fri., 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m.; and Sat., 5:30–11 p.m. Closed Sunday.
PH: 415.955.0663
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
http://www.perbaccosf.com/


Last week my childhood friend Angel was visiting on business from Chicago and I wanted to show him a San Francisco dining experience. Perbacco, the Financial District restaurant known for its Northern Italian cuisine, has been on my list of must-visit places for awhile. So it was on to Open Table and reservations for two on a Friday night.

You know what that means, right? A late dinner, because you can’t book a reservations at a popular restaurant on a Friday night in San Francisco and expect a normal eating time. But that was fine, because I was going to meet my friend who I went to middle school with in Honolulu and haven’t seen for years!

Our reservations were for 9 p.m. and I met Angel at the bar, which was already packed with after-work professionals munching on all sorts of cured meats with their fancy drinks. The long bar was beautifully lit, accenting the white features giving the place a cozy but chic glow. Angel had already been drinking next door at the Tadich Grill when I arrived, so after one drink, we were promptly taken to our table by the efficient front staff. (They knew who I was even though I didn’t check in because Angel had inquired if I had arrived a few minutes earlier.)

We sat in the dining area under the second floor, which felt like a very big alcove. This was my least favorite thing about Perbacco. I think I read that this used to be the kitchen until it was renovated to add more dining space. It felt dark and drabby and reminded me of a hotel banquet room. I wanted to be out in the bright lights, but I guess that was reserved for the more fabulous people. :(
Perbacco’s menu is quite impressive. In fact, I had studied up and reviewed its menu on its Web site, dreaming about what I wanted to order, only to find when I arrived that the menu had changed to a more summer taste. The chef, Steffan Terje, has created an exciting menu that’s been the buzz in town since the beginning of the year. It seemed he threw much of his creativity into the appetizers and starters, of which there were so many to choose from.

Because it was a late dinner for us, Angel and I decided to start with the “Tasting of Salame,” which included Nostrano, Finocchiona, Suppresata, Toscano and Sanguinato. These were all house-cured specialties and had a velvety texture and excellent tasting profiles. My favorite was the Sanguinato, or blood sausages, which were paired with tiny slices of apple.

For our second course, we had the traditional pasta dish. We shared the hand-cut tagliatelle with the famous five-hour pork sugo with porcini mushrooms. It was fabulous, with the right amount of rich pork that didn’t overpower the pasta and an underlining cheese that defines comfort in pasta dishes done right. My only negative reaction was to the hand-cut pasta because for some odd reason the wiggly (yes, that’s a word) texture reminded me of Cup of Noodles. I know, sounds terrible, but it did. Angel had a bit of the same reaction although he didn’t compare it to Cup of Noodles but to saimin, which is the ramen-like noodles we grew up eating in Hawaii.
There were about six selections for the main entrée dishes. Angel went with the tuna dish that was smothered with summer vegetables such as cherry tomatoes and squash. They had a special rabbit on the menu so I went with that. (FYI, it was from Devil’s Gulch.) Angel’s tuna was a bit disappointing because the dressing wasn’t all that spectacular and the fish was more on the well-done side as opposed to rare, which is how a beautiful fish like tuna should be eaten.
My rabbit was great. It was a braised leg with a light cream sauce with hazelnuts. My only gripe was that there wasn’t enough of it. I expected more for an entrée, but I guess it was a late dinner so probably best not to overeat.

We ended the evening with the warm peach and gelato with summer berries. I wanted something simple, but this came off too simple. It didn’t excite and the gelato had no distinctive flavor.
Still, the overall food experience was great and I’d like to come back to try some of the other more tantalizing appetizers and crudo. Perbacco’s entrees may be a bit pricey, but for most of the menu, the taste is right on point.

Side note: I had a glass of Peter Paul Merlot from Napa Valley that was perfect with the meat dishes we ordered. It was warm and comforting and not at all filled with the taste of tannins. I decided to go with a sure-fire California wine because I’d read mixed reviews about the Italian selections.

Single guy rating: 4 stars (popular expense spot for lunch, definitely expense it for dinner)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Perbacco in San Francisco

Above was the couple who were dining next to us Friday night. I asked them how they would rate the restaurant and they both gave it a 4, which is exactly what I was thinking too. So we were all in agreement! BTW, they both said they were “just friends” but from the way the guy was teasing her, I think he thou protests too mucheth. ;-)

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

Celebrate Your Freedom

Tuesday, July 03, 2007

There’s a Pig in My Oven

The warm weather got me reminiscing about growing up in Hawaii. I miss the beaches, my nephews and nieces, and kalua pig. Of all the Hawaii culinary dishes, this is my all-time favorite.

No, kalua pig is not Kahlua pig so there’s definitely no alcohol involved in the preparation (although I’ve had several friends who hoped there were). It’s basically a reference to the way the pig is prepared. In the traditional Hawaiian way, an outdoor pit is dug up (usually near where a luau is about to take place) and hot stones are thrown in. Bamboo and ti leaves are thrown on top and then an entire pig that’s been generously salted is lowered into the pit. More leaves are used to cover it up and then the pig is buried in this stone ground oven, known as an imu, for hours, sometimes a whole day. Then you get this luscious slow-cooked kalua pig that can feed a whole hula halau (that’s a hula troupe).

Of course, I don’t have an outdoor imu, nor do I have an “outdoor” because I live in a studio condo. So I roast my pig in the oven. And it’s really not a pig, but just its butt. The pork butt—more commonly called pork shoulder these days because I guess butt sounds too offensive—is the best part for slow-roasted pig because it’s cheap and has a bit of fat for flavor. I’ve seen many recipes for kalua pig in a conventional oven and a lot of it throws in complicated steps like creating a steam effect with layered trays or multiple ingredients to add a different twist. But the core of kalua pig is basically the pork and Hawaiian sea salt.

So below is my no-nonsense kalua pig recipe. It’s super simple, uses only three ingredients and is great for summertime picnics. What I do is I make my kalua pig early and then wrap them in individual aluminum packets that I throw onto a covered grill. The added smoke from the grill makes the kalua pig taste just like it came out from an imu!

BTW, to create the smoky flavor I used liquid smoke, and I know that the words “all-natural liquid smoke” sounds like an oxymoron but I did read somewhere that the process used to create liquid smoke that’s mark all natural is actually just that—they take the natural drippings of liquid from smoking grills. At least that’s what I read and I’m going to believe that’s true. Enjoy!

No-nonsense Kalua Pig

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
4 to 5 lb. pork shoulder or butt
2 T Hawaiian sea salt or kosher salt
2 T organic or all-natural liquid smoke

Preheat oven to 425 degrees

Cut pork into small chunks about equal sizes and place in glass dish. Sprinkle with sea salt (massage your pork to get the salt all over it), cover and refrigerate for at least an hour or overnight.

Transfer pork to a 9”X13” baking dish and drizzle with liquid smoke. Cover dish with aluminum foil and place in oven. Cook for at least two hours, probably closer to three hours.

Bring pork out of oven to cool and then get two forks and break apart the pork pieces into shreds. If you’ve cooked it long enough, this part should be easy as the pork easily falls apart. Remove excess bones. Taste the pork and add more sea salt, if needed.

Makes 5 to 6 servings. Serve with lomi lomi salmon and sauteed spinach.

Pair with a glass of Pinor Noir.

TIP: If you’d like to infuse your pork with a tropical taste, you can cover your pork pieces with either banana leaves or ti leaves (Note: ti leaves look like wider bamboo leaves and you can sometimes find it more easily at floral shops; they are not the same as tea leaves) and then cover everything with the aluminum foil. This will give you a more herbal essence (not the hair product) to your pig.

SLOW AND LONG: The ideal kalua pig cooks slowly and for a long time. So you definitely need a free day to roast it in your oven. The good thing is once you put it in, you can go on to do other things. However, cooking the pork for a long time can dry out the meat if there’s not enough fat that liquifies. If you’re concerned about a dry kalua pig, add about a ¼ cup of broth that’ll serve almost like a braising liquid. Just don’t drown your pig, though.

FREEZER READY: This is one of the few recipes where I can’t get away from making tons of servings. But the great thing is kalua pig is easy to freeze and tastes just as good. You can place your kalua pig in plastic containers or Zip lock freezer bags. When you want to eat them again, let it defrost as normal in the refrigerator and then simply steam them for about 10 minutes. Steaming is great to reheat the pork because the moisture from the steam will create a slight salty liquid to make your kalua pig taste fresh. Another thing I do with leftover kalua pig is throw it in a risotto dish with spinach and shitake mushrooms for a Hawaiian-style risotto.

Monday, July 02, 2007

The Next Food Network Star: Episode 5


Sorry, no short notes on the previous episode. It was a busy pre-holiday weekend for me so I switched to the Food Network just a minute into the show. But just a reminder, Mike “like the fish” Salmon was eliminated last week and now they’re down to just five finalists.

The finalists are at the breakfast table and Adrien’s reminding everyone that there are only five of them left, just in case anyone had trouble with counting. Amy comments that being in the top five is a pretty big deal, and Rory corrects her that “top four is an even bigger deal.” Snnaaaap. Take that, sister.

Cut to a red van zipping across Midtown and we’re supposed to assume that the five finalists are in there instead of the normal unmarked white van. In Adrien’s taped interview, he’s reminiscing about how he had to sacrifice a job he had for seven years to be on the show. (His former bosses wouldn’t grant him a leave to be on the show, so he quit.) He worked as a delivery man for uniforms. (Um, Adrien, I think you can do better.) The five line up in the studio kitchen and Amy’s wondering who’s going to be this week’s guest judge. With the mystery music running to a near fever pitch, out comes Alton Brown, or who I will now refer to as Professor Brown. (He looks kind of like a professor wearing that drab gray sweater jacket. Plus, he’s known for his show, Good Eats, which gets into the science of cooking. Disclaimer: I don’t watch his show either because I got a D in high school chemistry.)

The professor talks about the relationship each of the contestants will have to strike up with “the stack of glass,” pointing to the camera. It will either be love at first sight or that awkward blind date where you wished you had arranged for an emergency call from your friend. Professor Brown points to three bags of rice in front of the contestants. For a moment, I thought the Food Network got all Asian on me. But really, the bags of rice are just used as containers to hold paddles with various ingredients written on them. Each contestant picks one paddle out of the three bags and then has to make a dish with those ingredients.

They have 30 seconds to prepare their dish and then do a live three-minute presentation. The pickings went like this:

Amy: veal cutlet, oyster mushrooms, popcorn (ooh, evil Food Network producer)
Paul: calamari, fennel, persimmons (I think he got the best of the lot)
JAG: shrimp, snow peas, cornflakes (what is up with cooking with breakfast cereal?)
Adrien: flounder, Japanese eggplant, peanut butter (no comment)
Rory: minute steak, red radish, dried prunes (huh, I never heard of minute steak; what part of the cow is that from?)

Off they cook, and Rory talks about how a lot of time you have very little in your refrigerator and you have to make dinner out of whatever ingredients you have on hand, so today’s challenge reminds her of those times. Ah yes, I recall all the times I’ve made baked pasta using whatever I had in my pantry and frig, or stir fry of some odd mixture of ingredients. It’s always a hit and miss kind of thing. Now I’m thankful I live across the street from Safeway.

Professor Brown announces that the contestants have 60 seconds remaining and I get a flashback of Iron Chef America, where he’s also the moderator.

Now it’s time for the presentations, and Rory is up first. She’s all excited because this is what she came here to do, be on TV. She starts off by talking about her “empty pantry” theme and goes right into cooking the minute steak. I have to say she seems pretty relaxed. Then she points to her big plate of prunes, and she says they’re just like raisins. So to make you think they’re like raisins, she suggests you cut them into small pieces, about the size of a raisin, and toss them in a salad. She gets her steak out of the pan and then tops it with her greens and raisin-size prunes. The dish actually looks kind of pretty and simple. Of course, she’s just a tad past the three-minute mark.

Up next is JAG who does an Asian tempura using cornflakes as the breading. Typical JAG, he’s using a ton of ingredients and his demo, while definitely showing a lot of cooking, seems like you’re listening to him go over his list of ingredients. It’s like a commercial for Spice R Us. (Wouldn’t it be cool if there was a store that sold tons of spice in a big warehouse? I’d probably live there. Until my allergies act up, that is.)

Paul’s next and the music turns a bit sweet, almost like something they would have played for Colombe. (Remember Colombe? Miss Snow White? Don’t you think the show got so much more serious after she got kicked out?) Anywho, Paul starts with a story about going fishing with his dad. Ah, doing the old trick of sharing a story to connect with the audience. He’s cooking and his pan is firing up, but he’s going on and on about his dad and clams and something blah blah blah. I think he said something about not wanting to wake up. Whatever. Too long a fish tale, that’s what it is. He’s not saying anything about what he’s doing with his ingredients. CUT, shouts the stage director. Gosh, you know, seems like this stage director doesn’t really give them much of a warning. It’s like she only warns them with just 15 second left. I think 15 seconds can go by pretty fast, which is why everyone’s going long.

Maybe Adrien will have better luck since he’s been bragging yet again about how he hosts a TV show in Jackson, Mich. He’s definitely comfortable in front of the camera, but his stove top is eerily quiet. He’s basically pointing to his ingredients and showing the finished product. No cooking in this cooking demo. It’s basically show and tell. Still, he says afterwards that he felt confident about his presentation.

Amy gives the final presentation and she’s doing a brisk walk toward the kitchen stage, so fast that Professor Brown has to grab her elbow and tell her to slow down. (And no running in the hallways Miss Amy.) On camera, she comes off pretty relaxed and friendly. She talks about planning an easy dinner party with her simple veal cutlet with “wow” factor, the “wow” being the popcorn. She doesn’t finish in three minutes either.

Professor Brown holds his class and he breaks down everyone’s demo. And it goes something like this: Rory, good tip about making prunes easier to take by calling them big raisins, but try cutting some while you offer that tip; JAG should have explained what blanching means (JAG says he assumed he was talking to a bunch of chefs. What? Did he think he was on the Chef’s Network?); Paul goes off into tangents with his stories about his dad; Amy shouldn’t be telegraphing what she’s going to do, just do it; and Adrien (this is easy) didn’t demonstrate any cooking.

Commercials. Oh, the Food Network is premiering a new show that’s the Latin version of Everyday Italian with a Latin looking Giada in a show called “Simply Delicioso.” Huh, I guess none of these five contestants on The Next Food Network Star is really the next star since it looks like the next star is really Ingrid Hoffman.

Everyone gathers back at the studio and stands before these five really red lids. Professor Brown reminds them about how each of them talked about their favorite ingredients to cook with during their application process. But you know that’s too easy, right? So the five lift off the lids to unveil their least favorite ingredients.

Professor Brown says none of the ingredients seem very objectionable, starting with Amy’s, who’s least favorite ingredient is bok choy, the Chinese vegetable. What’s weird is that they show a big plate of baby Shanghai greens that aren’t really the traditional bok choy. The traditional bok choy is the Chinese greens that have a very white stalk and really deep green leaves. That’s why they’re called bok choy because bok means white in Cantonese and choy means vegetable. Amy’s plate is piled with Chinese greens that’s shaped like bok choy but has a pale green color (sometimes labeled as baby bok choy in the American stores). She’s just giving bok choy a bad rap and she doesn’t even know how they look. (I actually love bok choy. It’s mild flavoring matches nicely with heavier tastes such as beef or sausages.)

JAG’s least favorite is tofu. He apparently hasn’t tried silken tofu, nor has he made my favorite dish, ma po tofu. (I think tofu gets a bad rap with most non-Asian eaters because it’s seen as a vegetarian ingredient and most of the original tofu sold in vegetarian stores were firmer and cardboard-like versions.)

Now Paul’s ingredient I can understand. It’s lima beans. I don’t think I’ve even eaten much of it but just seeing that big plate of it looks annoying to cook.

Rory says she doesn’t like goat cheese. And she compares it to smelling a male goat, which is really weird because where has she gone around smelling a male goat? And why is the male goat more smelly than the female goat? Rory has raised so many important questions that need answers.

And finally, Adrien’s least favorite ingredient is baby corn. He thinks they taste like dirt. Um, have you tried cleaning them? I love baby corn in stir fry.

They all have to make a dish that they will present in a five-minute demo. The demo also has to feature a script that explains their culinary vision.

The contestants are set loose at the Westside Market again. Paul says Adrien doesn’t know what to do, and Adrien admits as much. JAG says he’s going to make a Caribbean style pad thai. He’s at the registers and he’s spent too much, so he has to return some ingredients. (This is foreshadowing folks.)

They get back to the studio and go to the set, where the Food Network minions have built a special kitchen for the contestants. Everyone’s in love with the set and they’re all acting like kids on Christmas eve.

In the evening, all the contestants are working on their scripts and they’re all working together. (That’s sweet, but I don’t remember this being a group project.) Amy starts comparing herself to everybody else and then gets insecure about herself. Then she gets the “Tommy,” and what I mean is she starts to miss her family like big boy Tommy who was tossed out a few weeks ago because he missed his family so bad that he took his mind out of the game. It’s starting to happen with Amy as you see her holding back tears while talking to her husband. Then during dinner with everyone else, she breaks down into tears while eating. Rory’s telling her to stay in the game because she’s come so far, but Amy’s just bawling about going home. (Maybe next year they should ask in the application form whether you have any kids and are you willing to be separated from them and your significant other who could be holding you back.)

Commercials. Speaking of kids, have you seen the State Farm commercial with the screaming kids? It’s like a commercial for birth control. This is why I’m such a great uncle because I spend time with kids when they’re playing and once they start crying, that’s when Uncle Ben hits the road.

OK, back to the show. It’s the morning of their presentations and they’re at the studio. They have 45 minutes to prep their dishes and then they’ll have five minutes to present in front of a camera. JAG is missing his banana peppers and he’s upset. He blames the baggers at the store. You know what? This is the same store that Paul left his bags at two episodes ago. So even though JAG may have not purchased the peppers since they weren’t on his receipt, I do have to wonder about the baggers because they don’t have a good track record thus far.

Amy’s talking about how she couldn’t sleep because she was stressed and missing her family. Next thing you know she cuts herself and she’s bleeding all over a bandage.

Professor Brown reminds everyone that they must show their perspective on food, or else why have your own show? The selection committee (Professor Brown, Susie Fogelson and Bob Tuschman) is watching from another room. Paul is up first and Susie says to no one in particular “c’mon Paul” even before he starts like she already knows it’s going to be bad so she wants to cheer him on for luck.

He’s making a lima bean soup with bacon and parmesan crisp. That sounds pretty good. Who doesn’t like parmesan crisps? You know how he was talking about his dad in the three-minute demo? This time he’s busy talking about his mom. That’s sweet but this is how people run out of time. He goes to the oven to get his crisp and he does this weird high-pitched voice about burning himself getting out his tray, but he’s not really burning because that’s a tray with pre-cooked parmesan crisp. So yes, Paul was being “dramatic.”

The judges basically say they don’t understand his perspective. They think Paul’s like a train on three different tracks.

Next is insecure Amy, and she totally blanks out right before her presentation. She forgets her script and just wings it and all the judges are confused. They wanted to see the “gourmet next door,” but all they get is this sweaty, stressed Amy, who’s making udon soup, btw, which I love. She’s not smiling and the judges see that. Oh wow, she just dumped a big handful of black sesame seeds over her udon soup noodles. Bob says it’s a disaster and she better hope someone does worst. Lucky for her, the remaining contestants do just that.

Starting with JAG, who ironically is also making udon with bok choy just like Amy, except he’s making a stir-fried version instead of soup noodles. (What happened to his pad thai?) He’s also adding the tofu that is his least favorite ingredient but JAGs it up with sofrito (a Spanish mixture of tomato, onion, bellpepper and spices cooked down into a paste). BTW, JAG’s bok choy is totally the real deal. It totally looks like what most Chinese call bok choy. However, I give him a deduction because it looks like his noodles are not udon noodles. First, they're slightly flat and udon noodles are thick and round like worms, and they're a bit long and udon noodles aren't very long. I think he's actually using Shanghai noodles. Sigh, these Asian fusion folks are killing me! He ends by saying his dish is “not half bad.” All the judges feel exhausted. Again, they count his ingredients (25 ingredients just on the first page of his script). JAG says he doesn’t want to simplify his cuisine because that’s not who he is, because, yeah, he’s a complicated kind of guy.

Rory’s up next and she’s talking about her recent move to the panhandle of Texas. She’s making a sweet, savory, spicy goat cheese salad. She’s talking a lot about her ingredients and then she goes and gets her prepared salad, without cooking one thing. I guess you really don’t need to cook salad, and of course she actually ends on time.

Now the judges are rooting for Adrien, hoping for a good performance from anyone. Adrien is making a vegetable pasta medley with grilled baby corn. He’s using a lot of the wrong terms while cooking, which I’m sure is a reflection of nerves. (He says he’s roasting his nuts when he’s really sauteeing them in a pan.) Then he’s putting a raw egg into his pasta to create a creamy sauce, but the egg isn’t cooking all the way and all the other contestants (and the judges) are nervous for him because he’s about to take a bite of his pasta with the raw egg. I don’t know why these food people are so nervous about eating raw eggs when it’s used in dishes like Caesar salads and tiramisu.

Of course, going into evaluation everyone’s not feeling good. The judges’ comments are really the same for everyone so I’m keeping this evaluation short. Basically everyone sucked on camera and Susie says that if this were the audition tapes, none of them would have been invited to the show. She asks them what happened and everyone is giving excuses, except Adrien who says he felt comfortable except maybe the last 15 seconds. Bob agrees with Susie and says he wonders if there’s really the next Food Network star in the batch. America was wondering about two episodes ago.

Each person steps forward for an individual critique, but like I said, it’s so much of the same yada yada that I’m not getting into it and go right to the drama that is Amy. She gets a whole avalanche of criticism, which finally breaks her and she talks about whether she wants the job, and she actually says that she’s decided that she doesn’t want the job. She doesn’t want to pick one dream (her own Food Network show) over another (going home to her family). Susie asks if she wants to go home?

Commercials. Tempurpedic. God, I want one. The woman voiceover says their beds do more than just let you sleep on them. Woah, is this an X-rated bed or what? Actually, I don’t want my mattress to do anything to me as I sleep. I just want it to leave me alone so I can sleep.

Back to the public breakdown of Amy, she explains that if the judges have to choose between her and the others, she says they should send her home. But Susie asks her one more time if she wants to go home, but then Amy gives this weird answer that she wants to go home but that she’s a fighter and would fight another round. So really, does she want to be the next Food Network star or just wants to stick around for another week in New York?

The judges say there’s no true winner for this week, but Paul is apparently the least offensive of the bunch so he gets through to the next round. The next to get a pass is Amy, even after all her doubts. Professor Brown says they’re letting her through “against your wishes” and Amy corrects him and says, “not against my wishes.” So what was all that drama just a few minutes ago? They send the two away to deal with the last three: JAG, Adrien and Rory.

Rory gets a save and she’s totally relieved and thanks the judges for giving her another chance. So it’s between JAG and Adrien and Bob does the fake out by calling Adrien’s name then telling him that JAG is going to stay, so that’s his reverse way of saying he’s getting the boot.

Adrien is totally shocked that he’s going home and is pretty much near tears. He goes upstairs and tells the others he’s the one leaving, and everyone is shocked that all they can do is stare at him, which is awkward because then Adrien has to ask for a group hug because he’s so devastated and really needs a hug right now. Gosh, I would have hugged him right away. ;-)

Amy now says she really wants to do this and hopes her freak out is over. The final four flash their culinary themes (because they did such a bad job of showing it tonight), so in case you missed it: Amy’s the “Gourmet Next Door;” Paul is “Party Food on A Budget,” Rory’s making “Real Food for Real People”; and JAG is all about the Latino Fusion (which he pronounces FU-see-ON.)

Next on TNFNS: The final four does a mini version of Iron Chef America with guests Bobby Flay and Cat Cora, a smoke alarm goes off, and Bobby Flay tells one of them that he wouldn’t let him/her cook in his kitchen. Ouch. (This season’s contestants are really getting beaten down, and we’re supposed to love them later when one is crowned the star that was the better of four evils? I don’t think so. Someone has to step up their game or this season’s a bust.)

Speaking of bust, I’m taking a bye this week in doing my “What I Would Have Done” edition because it’s a holiday week and this week’s challenges focused more on the TV demos instead of the cooking. Now I’m off to cook me some bok choy.

"The Next Food Network Star" airs at 9 p.m. Sunday on the Food Network, and repeats at 9 p.m. on Thursday. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.

Sunday, July 01, 2007

Street Fairs and Strike Outs

It was a breezy summer Saturday in San Francisco, so I spent it outside most of the day. First I visited the Fillmore Jazz Festival on Fillmore Street. This is one of my favorite street festivals because of the great music as you're strolling the booths and there are fewer beer drinkers compared to festivals like North Beach, which happens later.

The popular stand at the Fillmore has got to be the Purely Decadent booth. And why not? They were passing out free ice cream! But this isn't just regular premium ice cream, this is all-natural dairy-free ice cream. I've actually cut down on my ice cream eating (despite what you've read about my Ici adventures) because of my high cholesterol. I rarely buy a pint of ice cream to eat at home. But I think I might buy this product from a company based in Eugene, Ore.

They had several flavors for people to try: Praline Pecan, Vanilla Swiss Almond, Mocha Almond Fudge. I tried the Pomegranate Chip. The taste was nice (although I thought it had too many chocolate chips) with a slight tart flavor of pomegranate. But the texture was very nice. Of course, it's not super creamy like regular ice cream, but it was somewhere in between frozen yogurt and ice cream, so totally passable if you want to feel like you're eating ice cream. The guy at the booth says Purely Decadent is available at stores like Whole Foods. And how can you not be intrigued by something called Purely Decadent. (Nice job on the branding, folks!) BTW, the Fillmore Jazz Festival continues today if you want to check out some free ice cream and great music.

Then after walking around the festival during the day, I went over to AT&T Park for another Giants game, this time against the Arizona Diamondbacks. It was a night game so I wanted something of substance to last me through the nine innings. So I went and got me the infamous Cha Cha Bowl, my first time.

The Cha Cha Bowl was created to honor Hall of Famer Orlando Cepeda, recognizing his Caribbean roots. It's barbecued jerk chicken over a bowl of rice and black beans topped with pineapple salsa. It's sold at the Orlando BBQ stand in the area behind the bleachers, but this year Orlando has allowed the Cha Cha Bowl to be sold throughout the ballpark via the Compadres stands. (Sigh, Compadres. They used to be a popular place to go for margaritas when I lived in Hawaii.)

Anywho, the Cha Cha Bowl sells for $9.50 and it definitely is filling. You get a big bowl of rice and beans with lots of grilled chicken chunks. I felt, though, that the chicken wasn't as jerky (meaning spicy) as I thought it should be. It simply tasted like grilled chicken. And yesterday they weren't topping with pineapple salsa but with this shredded squash concoction that added interesting color with a vinegar base, but not very tropical. (I guess they were out of pineapples.) Still, the overall bowl was fresh and satisfying, and the $9.50 price is pretty comparable to what you'd pay for other items around the stadium. It was a long game, made bearable by the beautiful weather, chatting with friends Allison and Jason, and rewarded with a Giants 4-1 win! Go Giants!