Monday, April 30, 2007

Time to Fire Up The Grill?

When the weather gets hot, it makes me start thinking about grilling. Which is kind of weird because I don't have a patio in my third-floor apartment, so I can't really do any outdoor grilling. But it must be the guy gene because I just love the idea of grilling. And with May about here, I decided to share this recipe I have for a simple, light Vietnamese-inspired lamb. I love lamb, and this tangy savory marinade just makes it even more fun. Serving it with grilled artichokes makes it a meal. Enjoy!

Vietnamese-Style Grilled Lamb with Baby Artichokes

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
3 French-cut lamb chops (about 8 oz.)
1 bulb shallot, finely diced
1 T Canola oil
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup fresh lime juice (about three limes)
2 T fish sauce
1 red chili, julienned
3 baby artichokes
salt and pepper
extra virgin olive oil

For the lamb:
Combine fish sauce, sugar, shallots, chili, lime juice and oil together in a bowl and blend well. Place marinade and lamb chops into an air-tight plastic bag and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. When ready to cook, place lamb on hot grill or grill pan, and cook about 2 minutes on each side. Serve with Vietnamese dipping sauce.

For the baby artichokes:
Prepare the artichokes by cutting about a half an inch from the top and remove the stem. Remove the rough outer leaves. Place artichokes in a steamer and cook for about 20 minutes. When done, cut in half. Pat dry with a papercloth. Then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and season with sea salt and pepper. Grill cut side down for about 1 minute.

Vietnamese dipping sauce:
¼ cup fish sauce
1 red chili, julienned
2 T sugar
¼ cup rice vinegar
1 t shallot, finely diced
1 t garlic, minced

Combine all the ingredients together in a small bowl and whisk until well blended.

Makes 1 serving. Serve with steamed “broken” rice.

Pair with a glass of Cote du Rhone.

TIP: “Broken” rice is pretty much what it sounds like: white rice that’s been broken during the milling process. This generally means that broken rice isn’t considered a premium rice and is actually used sometimes to feed ducks and other poultry. So now you’re wondering how appetizing this can be? For me, the broken rice just adds another texture to a meal. You can substitute with regular jasmine rice.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

Luscious Strawberry Season

It's strawberry season and these ruby colored beauties are probably one of the most popular berries around. So yesterday morning I took a nice walk in the morning heat (yes, it was hot in the Bay Area, but just on Saturday, not Sunday when the fog returned) down to my bakery in the 'hood, Bakesale Betty. This popular bakery in the Temescal neighborhood in Oakland has limited products, but always reflecting the season. So of course, they've brought back their strawberry shortcake ($4.50). Their shortcake is a dense cake similar to their scones, then lathered with fresh strawberries in natural juices with a generous scoop of cream. I have to say, it still feels like it's early in the season because the strawberries weren't super sweet. But that's the picky eater in me. It's still a luscious afternoon treat.

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Baking In Beijing

I love it when people share. My friend Maureen shot me an e-mail last week to tell me about her first sit-down dinner party in Beijing, where she works as a correspondent for a major American newspaper. She made beef bourguignon for eight, and ended the dinner with what she calls “the easiest chocolate dessert I have.”

Because I don’t bake chocolate often (despite what you might recall about my brownies, hunt for chocolate drinks, or premium chocolates — geez, I guess I do blog a lot about chocolate for a vanilla lover), I thought I’d share Maureen’s simple recipe.

She got the recipe from her husband’s stepmom, and it looks like she got it from a cookbook called Classic Home Desserts: A Treasury of Heirloom and Contemporary Recipes From Around The World. This recipe is credited to Thomas Keller, the celebrated Napa Valley chef and owner of French Laundry, who calls it a tart even though it doesn’t have a crust.

Maureen describes this cake as “cake-like on the outside, but soft and gooey inside … like a warm Valrhona chocolate cake dessert.” OK, I’m so not the chocolate person that I thought Valrhona was misspelled. At least my Word program keeps telling me that. Maureen says it’s important to use quality chocolate, although she didn’t mention Valrhona. Instead, she says she used “4 oz. of 85% Lindt chocolate from France, and 4 oz. of 70% Valor chocolate from Spain.” You must think Beijing is pretty fancy to have all these European chocolates, but my guess is that Maureen probably brought a supply with her after her recent ski trip in France. (Am I right, Maureen?)

You’ll see in the photo that she served the cake with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, but she says “I think it might be delish with raspberries or a sharp sorbet, but I didn’t have access to fresh berries nor good sorbet.” Finally, she says it’s important not to over bake it.

Looks elegant and yummy. I may end up making it despite what I say about my lack of a chocolate gene. Thanks for sharing Maureen!

Thomas Keller’s Molten Chocolate
(from “Classic Home Desserts,” copyright Richard Sax and Houghtin Mifflin Co.)

Ingredients:
4 oz. best-quality imported semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 ½ oz. unsweetened chocolate, finely chopped
10 T (1 stick plus 2 T) unsalted butter, softened
½ cup sugar
3 large eggs
½ cup plus 2 t all-purpose flour
¾ t baking powder
1 ½ T unsweetened cocoa powder

Vanilla ice cream or vanilla-flavored whipped cream, for serving

1. Lightly butter six 1 –cup ramekins or custard cups; set aside. Place the semisweet and unsweetened chocolate in the top of a double boiler or in a bowl set over a saucepan of hot water over low heat (the bottom of the bowl should not touch the water). Stir occasionally until the chocolate melts; remove from the heat.

2. When the chocolate is smooth, stir in the butter and sugar until smooth. Add the eggs, flour, baking powder and cocoa. Beat with an electric mixer at medium-high speed until the mixture is pale and has a thick, mousse-like consistency; about 5 minutes.

3. Fill the ramekins ½ full, cover each with plastic wrap. Freeze for at least 3 hours. (The ramekins can be filled and frozen up to 3 days in advance.)

4. Just before serving time, preheat the oven to 375 degrees with a rack at the center. Bake the cold desserts until the outer edges of the tops are set, but the centers are still moist and shiny, usually 10 to 11 minutes. Invert each portion onto a serving plate and serve warm, with a small scoop of the vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of vanilla-flavored whipped cream. Alternatively, serve directly from the ramekins.

Makes 6 servings.

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Dish on Dining: Scott Howard (closed)

Sticking With A Prix Fixe Meal
500 Jackson St., San Francisco
Between the Financial District and North Beach
UPDATE: (03/04/08) This restaurant closed temporarily a few months ago but today announced that it will close for good.

Web site

Tonight was Dining Out For Life, and since I had blogged about it and encouraged everyone to eat out during this special evening, I thought I had to be the man of my words and do the same. So I called my friend David and we made plans to go to one of the participating restaurants. We selected the 19-month-old Scott Howard in the Financial District/North Beach area.

Scott Howard, simply enough, is named after the chef/owner Scott Howard, a French-influenced chef who got his start with Fork in Marin County. When his San Francisco restaurant opened, it had a high-end feel and the prices supposedly reflected that with a prix fixe menu that few ventured into. But somehow Howard recognized this pattern wasn't going to fly so he simplified his California-French offerings and got rid of the pricey prix fixe choices.

Now that he's been able to build a nice buzz and customer base, he's brought back the prix fixe, albeit at a more reasonable $32. I personally am always intrigued by prix fixe menus. In many occasions, it's an affordable way to sample the talents of the kitchen without breaking your wallet. And, of course, on other occasions it's a sad way for a restaurant to move quickly some otherwise slow-moving dishes. The test for me is seeing whether I'll stick with the prix fixe choices or start to modify with additional appetizers and sides, thereby busting the fixed price. David and I decided to see whether Scott Howard's prix fixe menu was worth bringing back.

(Side note: Along with the prix fixe, which is three courses for $32, he also offers a five-course tasting menu for $60 and a wine flight for $15. The tasting menu can only be ordered if everyone on your table decides to order it.)

For the prix fixe's first course, you have a choice of either a soup, salad, or appetizer. The choices tonight were the restaurant's specialty soup, the carrot broth with chervil sabayon and truffle oil, or a mache and frisee salad with green apple or smoked salmon on a crispy potato cake with a small arugula salad. I chose the carrot broth because it was the restaurant's specialty, and David got the smoked salmon.

My soup was bright orange and tasty, but a bit too savory and sweet. (It suffered from what is often labeled as the "over-salting" of restaurant food, IMHO.) David's smoke salmon was a delicate meal. The smoked salmon was subtle but fulfilling, and the potato cake was perfectly crisped and nicely paired with the lightly dressed small salad.
The second course was the entree. The choices were a salmon with asparagus or a lamb loin with braised greens and truffled jus. I went with the salmon while David got the lamb. My salmon came with a slight hint of fishiness. This is where I started a discussion with David about how a clear sign of freshness of a restaurant's seafood can be determined by whether you can smell the fish before it hits your table. David says he couldn't smell my salmon and deemed me too critical. Ha! He did agree with me that my salmon was average. I should add that the sauce tasted simply of asparagus water and nothing else.

David's lamb, on the other hand, was a clear winner with its perfectly cooked redness and tenderness and the accompanying greens. (Unfortunately, my camera was running low on batteries so I couldn't take a picture of every dish and my attempt to photograph David's lamb resulted in a black blur.) But really, lamb is so easy to cook it's hard to go wrong with that choice on any menu.
For our third and final course, the prix fixe offered a dessert of warm chocolate cake or butterscotch pudding. David and I didn't differ on this front: We both ordered the butterscotch pudding. With the first bite, I declared myself happy after what I was convinced was my poor choices in the prix fixe menu. The pudding was luscious, with a deep wonderful amber color off-set by the cream topping. It tasted like tapioca, but without the weird jelly pearls. It was a rich, tasty treat and I loved it. David didn't have the same reaction as me, but I think he secretly loved it.

In the end, I decided that David had my perfect dinner, with the crispy potato cake and smoked salmon and wonderful lamb finished with delectable butterscotch pudding (a dessert I've never seen at any other restaurant). My dinner was hit and miss and was only saved by the dessert.

Minor note: Our server was not my favorite. I generally write off one inefficient server as a misnomer and don't add the service into my ratings, but I have to point out that this particular guy was incomplete in our service (not asking us if we wanted coffee or tea with our dessert or taking David's wine order but not mines) and a bit rushed. It didn't add to my enjoyment. Also, we got a drink at the bar before dinner and the bartender didn't even know what a glass of cava was when I asked if she had any. (Cava is the Spanish sparkling wine.) Again, a few holes in the overall experience at Scott Howard.

Scott Howard is an elegant restaurant with rich dark decor and a stylish setting. The menu, outside of the prix fixe, looks enticing and I probably would come back to order off of it. (The menu changes daily, although some regular favorites like the carrot broth soup and short ribs are probably always on the menu.) I agree with David that the prix fixe menu is a nice value compared to other restaurants. But because of the inconsistency in some of the execution of the dishes, I was left wanting a little bit more. More freshness. More innovation. More satisfaction.
Single guy rating: 3 stars (perfect for foodies)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Scott Howard in San Francisco

One of the nice touches of Scott Howard is that at the end of the night when they bring the bill, it's contained in a slip that includes a recipe printed inside. I thought that was such a fun idea, and I'm gladly sharing the recipe printed in our slip tonight. It was for the house special carrot broth. Enjoy!

Carrot Broth from Scott Howard

5-6 servings
3 cups diced carrots (small dice)
6 1/2 cups carrot juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 teaspoon curry powder

technique
1. Put diced carrots in a small pot.
2. Cover with carrot juice (reserve remaining for later).
3. Cook carrots in juice until the juice is reduced until dry.
4. In blender, puree cooked carrots (in small batches) with remaining juice until smooth.
5. Return to stove. Slowly heat to a simmer.
6. Add curry powder and then salt and pepper to taste.
7. Add cream.
8. Strain through Chinoise (fine mesh strainer).
9. Garnish with cream fraiche and truffle oil.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

How Much Is That Ducky In The Window?

I love duck, but I've mentioned before that I've never prepared it at home because of what I imagine is the smoky mess. (One day, though, I'm going to face my fear. But not today. A day when Idol Gives Back. Sorry, random reference.) Anywho, so what I usually do to quell my love for duck--other than to order it whenever I see it on a restaurant menu--is to head down to Chinatown and buy one of these scrumptious roasted ducks hanging in the window of various roasting shops. I typically tell the guy at the window to give me just half a duck (averages about $6 to $7 for half) and he chops it into slices for me. When I get home, I either eat it as is with some sauteed vegetables, or I create something special like the duck risotto below. (Then with my duck bones, I put them in the freezer for a later time when I can make my jook.) Enjoy!

Roasted Duck Risotto

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
1 cup roasted duck meat (remove bones and chop into small pieces)
1 8-oz. can water chestnuts, diced
½ sweet onion, diced
1 cup Arborio rice
1 cup baby bok choy, chopped (or other Chinese greens)
½ cup shiitake mushrooms
1 small glass of dry white wine
1-1/2 cans of chicken broth (14-oz can) or 2 cups chicken broth
1 t Chinese 5-spice
¾ cup shredded parmesan cheese (or parmigiano reggiano)
2 T unsalted butter
olive oil
sea salt to taste

In a medium saucepan, warm 2 tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat and add onion. Cook for about two minutes until translucent, making sure not to brown the onions. Add rice and stir with onions, letting the heat toast the rice for about a minute. Turn heat to medium and add wine and cook until most of it evaporates. Add broth, about 1 cup, and continue cooking for about 15 to 20 minutes, adding 1/2 cup of broth at a time along the way, until rice is al dente, or almost done.

Slice your mushrooms and saute them in a separate pan to sweat them. When your risotto is almost done, add the mushrooms along with the duck meat, water chestnuts, bok choy and 5 spice. Continue cooking for another 5 minutes. (You may need to turn up the heat a bit after adding all these items to your pot.)

Remove saucepan from the fire and stir in butter and cheese. Add salt to your taste. Let it sit for about a minute, then plate up your risotto. Garnish with more parmesan.

Makes two servings. Serve with small green salad.

Pair with a Pinot Noir.

TIP: For this recipe, I buy my roasted duck already made from the butcher stands in Chinatown. If you don’t have a favorite spot to buy cooked duck, then you can buy duck breast and pan sear them with salt, pepper and Chinese 5-spice and then finish off in the oven at 375 degrees for about 20 to 30 minutes. When done, cut into slices and fan over the top of your plate of risotto.

(I’m repeating this tip about picking your risotto rice.)
CHOICES: Risotto rice makes this dish unique with its short grain and creamy texture. So you can’t substitute it with the typical long-grain rice or even Japanese sushi rice. But you do have choices. There are three main Italian rice to make risotto: Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. Arborio is the one most widely available outside of Italy and can be easily found in any grocery store. It consistently cooks in 15 minutes and produces a nice cream. But don’t be afraid to experiment with Carnaroli and Vialone Nano if you spot them on a gourm et store shelf. They both cook a bit longer, but Carnaroli grains keep more of their shape so it’s a nice choice if you don’t like your risotto too mushy. Vialone Nano is creamier if you want to go the other direction.

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Baseball Buffet II: The Other Bay Team

As fair play, I decided to make a visit to the Oakland Coliseum—home of the Athletics (or A’s). Of course, I did it during the awful showing of my Yankees when they were in town. Sigh. This is turning out to be a long baseball summer for The Single Guy Chef.

The vibe is dramatically different at McAfee Coliseum (yes, this ballpark changes its name often too) from AT&T Park where the San Francisco Giants play. At AT&T, it’s all about fun, fancy foods and pretty bay views. In Oakland, it’s all about baseball. Here, a hot dog is a hot dog. There’s no Niman Ranch. And there’s definitely no sushi.

So here’s my tour of the baseball eats at the Coliseum. Thankfully the Yankees aren’t playing the A’s on their turf for the rest of the season.The Coliseum actually has a spot that provides what comes close to a restaurant feel. The Westside Club on the upper level provides luxury box-like seating where you can order from a menu and watch the game. Unlike other ballparks’ club rooms, this club is open to anyone with a ticket. You have to check in with a hostess and get seated, though, and there may be a wait. The menu offers a full range of soup, salads, sandwiches and other typical baseball munchies.Here’s how garlic fries look on the other side of the bay. You buy them from the Gordon Biersch stand. The tray looks a bit smaller than what you get in San Francisco, but it’s $1 cheaper in Oakland. Again, me no like fried food. So I didn’t do a comparison test.I searched and searched for something unusual to try out for my lunch. That’s when I realized that at the Coliseum, there’s no fancy food like a Crazy Crab sandwich or a Cha Cha Bowl. So instead I settled for a Philly cheese steak sandwich ($7.50). As you can see from the picture, it was a real mess when I removed the wrapper, and it didn’t look that appetizing. But surprisingly, it tasted pretty good and the meat was thinly sliced making it easy to chew. So what if the cheese wasn’t gruyere (I’m sure it was some kind of processed American cheese), it sure felt comforting.My favorite go-to meal at AT&T Park is the individual pizza. In Oakland, they get theirs straight from Round Table. Nuff said.Of course, there were tons of beer stands. This particular one had a Hawaiian theme. I thought it was funny that they were selling “liquid Aloha.” Hmmm, growing up in Hawaii I think they called that a mai tai.Fried food everywhere! Here’s a picture of the fish and chips for sale. Any guesses on whether I tried it? I think not.The one thing I have to say about the Coliseum’s food offerings is that the prices don’t border on price-gouging as it can often happen at AT&T Park. Most of the food items in Oakland range between $6 and $7 (other than the Westside Club where prices are slightly higher because you have seating). But one place where the prices were a bit high (nearing $11) was this barbeque joint on the third base end of the ballpark. You can get a variety of barbeque items like rib dinners and pork sandwiches. There was a line despite the prices.Despite all my ramblings about fried food, it’s nice to know that at most ballparks, including AT&T in San Francisco and the Coliseum, items are fried without trans fat—that ugly man-made fat that has been linked to various diseases. Still, some kind of fat is being used. Which is why I’m off looking for a burrito.

Monday, April 23, 2007

La Brea from La-La Land

Having a blog is like having a diary. You end up sharing a bit about yourself. What have you learned so far about me? I love lavender and I don't eat deep-fried food. I drink tea but not coffee. And I don't own a car.

Now another thing about me: Last year my doctor said I have high cholesterol (which is crazy when I weigh only about 140 pounds and hardly eat butter). Because I exercise regularly, my doctor is letting me give it a try to reduce my cholesterol through diet instead of medication. What does this all have to do with that big lovely bread above? Well, my nutritional program recommends me eating more whole cereals and grains, such as bread, for the fiber. So over the past few months I've been looking for a good-tasting whole grain bread.

My current favorite is this whole grain bread from La Brea Bakery. What's amazing about this bread is that you get it fresh even though the bakery is down in Southern California. That's because La Brea has created this process where they half-bake their breads and then ship them across the country. When they arrive at the destination cities, they're baked to full glory and sold piping hot at your local stores. I get mines from Whole Foods, but it's also available at Trader Joe's, Andronico's, Mollie Stones and Costco. (I also saw on its Web site that they're now available in Hawaii at Foodland, so now I know where to go for bread when I visit my family on vacation.) I'm still testing out various whole grain artisan breads from local bakeries, but so far La Brea's whole grain is leading the pack.

The Prince of Cauliflower

Remember that purple cauliflower I saw last weekend? I became so obsessed about it that I spent the better part of last week looking for it again. I had read online that purple cauliflower is natural and wild, and not a hybrid, which made me think it has a short season. I kept thinking I may not see it at the stores for very much longer. Thus, the obsession began.

Of course, I tried to see if I could get it at some of my specialty stores closer to where I live in Oakland. But after not finding it at the Piedmont grocer, I ended up taking the bus ride to the Whole Foods Market in Berkeley where I first saw it. (FYI: I later spotted a few purple cauliflower at my farmers market in Temescal.)

At Whole Foods, there were just a few left (I guess other people were intrigued by the color or became just as obsessed as I) and I grabbed one. It didn’t seem as fresh, almost like they were the same ones I saw from the previous weekend. But no matter. Cauliflower is a hearty bunch.

I’ve come to learn that purple cauliflower is really healthy for you—filled with lots of antioxidants, which explains the deep purple color. As you know, it’s healthy for you to eat deep-colored vegetables. And the more colors the better (don’t just stick with dark green). But I also learned that purple cauliflower, while more tender than the regular white ones, has less flavor. And the color fades as it’s cooked.

So what to do? That’s when I came up with the recipe below for my curry chicken salad with purple cauliflower. I figured the curry will give a nice zing for flavor, so you’re basically relying on the purple cauliflower for texture and eye candy. (I do a quick blanching of the cauliflower to retain the color. I later also discovered that sauteeing the cauliflower with a bit of broth creates a deep purple-blue color.)

Next time you see purple cauliflower at the store, pick it up and try this recipe. Or beware of the sleepless nights of obsession.

Curry Chicken Salad with Purple Cauliflower

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
6 oz. chicken breast (about 2 skinless breast pieces)
2 cups purple cauliflower* florets (about half a cauliflower head)
½ cup celery (2 stalks), chopped
½ cup raisins
½ cup mayonnaise
1 t curry powder
1 t champagne vinegar
4 T extra virgin olive oil
sea salt and pepper

* Substitute with regular white cauliflower or 1 cup of chopped carrots

Preheat oven to 375 degrees

Season your chicken breast with sea salt and pepper and coat with olive oil. Place on roasting pan and bake in oven for about 25-30 minutes, depending on the thickness. When done, remove from oven and let cool. Then chop into cubes.

Bring a pot of water to boil. Then quickly blanch your cauliflower (about 30 seconds) and then immediately place in a bowl of cold water with either a drop of vinegar or lemon juice to help retain the purple color. When ready to prepare your salad, drain the water and let the cauliflower air dry in colander.

In a small bowl, mix mayonnaise, curry powder and vinegar. Add a pinch of salt and pepper. Then combine all your ingredients in a big bowl: chicken, cauliflower, celery, raisin and mayonnaise mixture. Blend well, and then refrigerate. Serve as sandwiches or on a bed of butter lettuce as a salad.

Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Pair with a glass of Gewurtraminer.

TIP: If you don’t have champagne vinegar, replace with any light tasting white vinegar such as rice wine vinegar.

EVERYTHING’S PURPLE: The purple cauliflower is more tender than regular white cauliflower so you don’t need to blanch it that long. The longer you cook it in the boiling water, the more grey the color. (The purple color will fade as it cooks.) To also help prevent the color from fading, keeping the cauliflower in water with lemon juice or vinegar will help.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Think Green

Happy Earth Day everyone! (And it turned out to be a nice sunny earth day in the Bay Area after some overnight showers.) I'm a big believer of caring for our planet, which is why I have the banner from Stopglobalwarming.org on my site. I try to do everything I can to help the Earth, and--bringing this all back to food--one of the best things you can do to help the planet is by shopping at your local farmers market. Shopping locally not only supports people who live in your community (or nearby) but it means less energy is used to ship the produce to you. And when you buy organic produce, which you can find often at farmers markets, that means less chemicals are being used in the soil and contaminating the ground. I just came back from shopping at my farmers market in the Temescal neighborhood in Oakland. (I bought some cauliflower and leeks to make my cauliflower soup, and some fresh bread.) What's nice is that it's just a 10-minute walk from my home, so I didn't have to drive (not that I would since I don't own a car). So get out and visit a farmers market today, or next weekend. And be nice to our planet. It's your home, too.

Here's a nice comprehensive list of Bay Area farmers markets from SFGate.

Saturday, April 21, 2007

Oranges Going Out With A Bang

Have you noticed how sweet the navel oranges have been at the stores lately? I was surprised to taste the sweetness because I thought the season was almost over for citrus, as we start seeing spring fruits like strawberries. But I guess after the freeze earlier this year, the oranges are making up for it with a last burst of sweetness.

The sweet oranges inspired me to make a souffle recipe I read in my PlumpJack Cookbook. As usual, I played with the recipe to reduce the servings. (The recipe in the book calls for 10 egg whites(!) to make 6 souffles.) As a single guy, I don't need to make that many souffles, especially since they don't really keep well. (It always tastes best fresh from the oven and puffed up.) I added my own twist to the recipe by throwing in a pinch of saffron threads to add to the color (that's the red things you see in the sauce above--please, no sperm jokes!). How did it turn out? Well, you can see below that the souffle looked really beautiful. But I thought it was a bit eggy for my taste. Who knows, maybe you might like that. Souffles are typically very sensitive too. I made three servings, and one of it fell before I could serve it. So it is true that you have to tip-toe when working around souffles. Nothing's more unappetizing than a flat souffle. Enjoy!

Navel Orange Souffle

The following recipe is adapted from The PlumpJack Cookbook and copyright belongs to Jeff Morgan and Rodale Books.

Ingredients:
1 medium or 2 small navel oranges
1/4 cup granulated sugar
2 T cornstarch
1 T water
5 large egg whites
1/2 t cream of tartar
1 pinch of saffron (optional)
Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter 3 6-oz. ramekins and dust with granulated sugar.

Cut the rind and pith from the oranges. Halve the oranges across the equator and take out any seeds, then cut into chunks and put them in a blender or food processor. Pulse until they're reduced to a smooth puree.

Pour the puree into a small saucepan, stir in the sugar and saffron and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally to avoid sticking. In a cup or small bowl, mix the cornstarch and water to create a slurry. Stir the cornstarch mixture into the orange-sugar mixture over high heat. When it begins to boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Transfer to a nonreactive bowl and let cool to room temperature.

Place the eggs whites and cream of tartar in a large bowl. Using an electric mixer, whip the egg whites at high speed until stiff peaks form. Gently fold in the orange mixture with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula until blended (but don't stir too much to avoid losing the air in the egg whites).

Fill each ramekin to the top with the souffle mixture and smooth flat with a spatula. Place the ramekins on a baking sheet and set them on the top rack in the oven. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes until the souffles have risen about 1/2 inch above the ramekins and are golden brown on top. Remove from oven and dust with confectioners' sugar. Serve immediately.

Makes 3 servings.

Pair with a dessert wine like Muscat.

Thursday, April 19, 2007

Dish on Dining: Chow Revisited

Safe Bets in a Neighborhood Spot
215 Church St. (at Market), San Francisco
Other locations: Park Chow on 9th Avenue (San Francisco) and Chow in Lafayette
PH: 415.552.2469
Hours: daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. (open till midnight on Fridays and Saturdays)
MC/Visa accepted, no on Amex


When I lived in San Francisco, one of the restaurants that I could count on for consistent comfort food was Chow on Church Street on the way to the Castro. (Say Chow on Church near Castro 10 times fast.)

Chow’s success has allowed restaurateur Tony Gulisano to open equally popular restaurants near the Golden Gate Park (Park Chow) and a location in Lafayette in the East Bay. Recently, I wanted to see if the original Chow still had its charm.

It’s funny that I sometimes see Chow referred to as a popular gay spot, just because it’s on the way to the Castro. Sure, you’ll see a lot of gay men eating there. (But is that really a surprise to see gay men eating out in San Francisco?) Or maybe it’s because Chow is right next door to a gay bar (the Pilsner Inn, which often serves as a waiting area for people waiting for a table at Chow). But whenever I’ve visited there, I’ve always found a mixed crowd who are just hungry to chow down on Chow’s eclectic menu.

The Bohemian vibe of the Church Street location is reflected in the mix of food on the menu, from salads to diner classics to attempts at Pan-Asian cuisine like Thai noodles. On this visit, my lunch partner and I sat out in the patio area in the back. And yes, we were sitting next to a gay couple.
I started with the mussels, which were simply steamed with white wine, butter, onion and parsley. It was a huge starter, which is the signature of Chow: hearty food at reasonable prices. This is why people keep coming back over the years. Along with the large bowl of mussels was a big honking piece of garlic bread (well, the bread wasn’t actually making a honking noise, but you get my drift), which I heartily used to slurp up the juices of the mussels from my bowl.
For lunch I had the sausage pizza with goat cheese and red onions. It was the small individual size, and it was warm and satisfying—nothing spectacular but definitely filling. My lunch partner ordered the beef short ribs that were pure comfort food, from the fork-tender meat to the bed of mashed potatoes. I tasted a bit of it and found it slightly bland. Around our table, I watched as people ordered huge salads that came piled up on plates.
Other than the mussels, there weren’t that many memorable things about our lunch. But the food was fresh and you sure got a lot of it. For that, Chow is a nice fall back when you can’t decide which fancy new restaurant to try. You can always count on Chow to make sure you never go hungry in the city.

Single guy rating: 2 stars (perfect spot for bargain bites)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Chow in San Francisco

Wednesday, April 18, 2007

Claypot Cooking

Back to some cooking. Today I’m cooking with a clay pot. I’ve been wanting to do this since my trip to Vietnam in January where many of their dishes are presented in beautiful clay pots. One of my favorite dish I ate was called Ca Kho To, or Caramel Fish.

The claypots in Vietnam are actually more beautiful than what you can find in the Asian stores in the United States. The Vietnamese pots are often darker, almost like iron. In Chinatown, you can get decorative glazed Japanese claypots or the commonly found ones (pictured above) that are porous with a glazed interior and cover. My mom bought me a decorative Japanese version a year ago but I misused it and it cracked. So not wanting to crack another expensive one, I’m starting out with the cheaper, plain clay versions. I bought the above for $3 in San Francisco’s Chinatown.

So you probably can guess that claypots are fragile for cooking. But it provides an even heat source and it’s so pretty you can place the pot right on your table and start eating.

Because of my past experience with the cracked claypot, I’m especially careful not to tempt fate this time around. So I practice the following rules I’ve read on various discussion boards:

1) After you buy your claypot, soak it in water overnight before you use it the first time.
2) When placing on heat, bring the heat up gradually instead of placing it on a high heat. (To play it safer, one person recommends that you put your claypot in the oven and let it slowly get hot before using it on the stovetop.)
3) Never cook your claypot over high heat.
4) If you haven’t used your claypot for awhile, soak it again for a few hours. This is especially true if you live in dry arid places or during the winter when there’s not much moisture in the air.

Feel confident now about cooking with a claypot? Then try the recipe below. Enjoy!

Caramel Fish in Claypot

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
1 white fish such as halibut or catfish cut crosswise as a steak (about 5 to 6 oz.)
1 t shallots, finely chopped
1 t spring onions, finely chopped
1 t chilies, seeded and finely chopped
1-1/2 T fish sauce
1 t chicken powder * (optional)
4 T sugar
½ t ground pepper
juice from one lime
2 T cooking oil
sprig of cilantro for garnish

* Look for chicken broth in powder form instead of boullions.

Start by making the caramel syrup. In a small stainless steel saucepan (do not use a non-stick pan), melt 3 tablespoon of sugar over high heat. Stir to make sure it doesn’t burn. The sugar will melt and turn to an amber brown liquid before turning to almost a reddish coffee brown color. This is when you take it off the heat. Add a tablespoon of hot water. Sugar will bubble briefly and may splatter. Place pot back on burner if you need to melt any sugar that hardened. Set aside to let cool.

In claypot, marinate your fish with shallots, spring onions, chilies, fish sauce, chicken powder, pepper, and a tablespoon of sugar. Let sit for at least 30 minutes. (Don’t place in refrigerator because you don’t want your claypot to get cold and then shocked by the heat when you start cooking.)

When you’re ready to cook your fish, place your claypot on your burner and slowly bring it to a medium heat. Add your caramel sauce to cook with the fish. After about 2 minutes, flip your fish to cook the other side. Add a squeeze of lime juice. Continue cooking for about 10 minutes (depending on the thickness of your fish steak) until the sauce reduces to a slightly thick consistency. Garnish with cilantro (or chopped spring onions).

Makes one serving. Serve with steamed rice and sauteed vegetables such as asparagus or snow peas.

Pair with a glass of Riesling.

TIP: It makes a nicer presentation if you remove the bones and skin of the fish before serving. The fish will be so flakey from the cooking that you can easily just remove the skin and main piece of bone with a fork. Then just coat the fish pieces with some of the sauce and serve it straight in the claypot.

THE WONDERS OF THE CLAYPOT: I’ve found the claypot such a beautiful instrument in the kitchen but quite tempermental. So to make sure it doesn’t crack from the heat when cooking, soak it for a few hours the night before you use it. Also, don’t expose it to extreme heat such as if it’s a cold day and you place it directly on a high heat. Gradually warm your claypot and never cook with the heat on high. It is not a wok.

Monday, April 16, 2007

Designer Chocolates in Emeryville

I’m finally getting around to blogging about my visit to Charles Chocolates’ fairly new retail store in Emeryville. I know, I thought the same thing. Emeryville? Home of Pixar and Kodak Gallery (formerly known as Ofoto)?

After my urban hike to find the store (I caught a bus to the Emeryville Public Market and then had to walk a few blocks across the railroad tracks to Hollis Street), I found that Charles Chocolates wasn’t surrounded by much other than a new Starbucks at the corner and a lot of new condo lofts. I hope the people who live in these condos eat chocolates often because I don’t think the location of the retail store will garner much foot traffic.

Turns out, the retail store opened in new leased space adjacent to the longtime Charles Chocolates factory. So it was simply an opportunity for Charles Chocolates to expand and put a retail face to its growing popularity. (BTW, I find it funny that the chocolates are branded as Charles Chocolates “SF” giving the impression that they’re made in San Francisco. It should be Charles Chocolates “EM.”)

Charles Chocolates is the brainchild of Charles (Chuck) Siegel, who started his love for chocolates with Attivo Confections. His whole thing is hand-made chocolates with no artificial ingredients or preservatives. (In fact, all the boxes have an “eat by” date.) For most people familiar with Charles Chocolates, you’ve probably seen the bars sold at Whole Foods Market. For the rest of their hand-made chocolate products, they were mostly available only online and just recently at Cocoa Bella at the San Francisco Westfield Centre.

The store has a whimsical, fresh feel to it. It’s not very big, but (at least for now) they’re very generous with the samplings. A long talked about café was supposed to open this month with a view of the chocolate factory, but when I visited the space, the café looked like it may be another two to three months before it opens.

That’s OK. Because it’s still worth the trip to check out the many chocolates. Here are some photos from my visit:
On two walls on opposite ends of the tiny store, you’ll find a variety of chocolate products. When I was there, I saw several products that were co-branded with companies like Teance and Miette. Of course, they were beautifully wrapped. One of the cool products was an edible chocolate box. Talk about chocolate overload!
At the center of the store as you enter is a large counter of individual chocolates that you can assemble to create your own box. Like I said earlier, since the store is new they’re very friendly and are willing to let you try any of the flavors. (Of course, don’t expect to go crazy. They generally let you try between two to three flavors. I tried lavender honey and a lychee tea chocolate.)
More samples. This was a plate of chocolate with nuts, but I didn’t try it so I can’t tell you what it is. It’s not featured on the Web site either, so your guess is as good as mines.
Chocolate powdered nuts and the widely available chocolate bars. One of the new chocolate nuts is a triple chocolate hazelnut. Mmmm.
Many of the tea-infused chocolates come with these cool designs on top that looks almost like Chinese calligraphy. I have to say, I didn’t feel like the tea-infused chocolates had a distinctive tea taste. (And you know how much I love tea.) The chocolate did have a deeper, richer flavor, but I wasn’t able to taste any essence of a particular tea flavor like Earl Grey or the lychee I tried.
So I ended up leaving with this tiny 3 oz. box of chocolates that has a sampling of 9 different chocolates. It’s sold for $14, which is the same price point as what you may find at Recchiuti. The sampling box doesn’t come with a guide of what you’re eating, so I had to guess based on what I saw on the Web. Of the 9 I tried, these were my favorites:

Bittersweet Peanut Butterfly—Charles has two butterflies and this one has a nice rich flavor with a nutty praline taste. Made me feel like I was in the south for some reason.

Raspberry Heart—Fresh raspberry ganache in a bittersweet gold heart. Pretty and tasty! The cream was smooth and sweet. It was a sublime experience.

Caramelized Almond Cluster—This can be very addictive. I think it's the strong nutty flavor. It's actual more a almond cluster coated with chocolate than really a chocolate candy. Whatever the dual identity, I could eat this with a movie.

Mojito heart—Hands down, the best chocolate I’ve tasted in a long time for it’s freshness and originality. It’s a chocolate heart filled with fresh mint and lime ganache with a hint of Jamaican rum. It had this sweet tart flavoring that was such a fresh combination with the chocolate. I could buy a whole box of this. (And I just might.)

Charles Chocolates, 6529 Hollis Street (at 65th Street), Emeryville
PH: 510.652.4412; open daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.

How Salty Are You? Contest Winner

Today's the deadline to pay your taxes. Wouldn't it be easy if it were like the old days when people traded in salt? We could all just send bags of salt to the IRS. Anywho, today is also the end of my How Salty Are You? Contest. And the winner is Jennifer from Texas. (Wow, I have a reader in Texas.) Jen got a perfect score in identifying all the salt in my pantry. (Jen, look for your winning prize in the mail. It should arrive tomorrow or Wednesday.) And for all of you, here are the answers:

Sunday, April 15, 2007

The Makings of a Seductive Supper

Last night I had a wonderful evening as a dinner guest at the San Jose home of my friend Jessie. (He's the same one I went to Foreign Cinema with.) I love the idea of dinner parties, but because I live in a studio apartment, I rarely play the host. So it's always nice when I can play the guest instead.

Jessie throws the most seductive parties. I say this because his food is always luxurious and it's accented with perfect ambient lighting at his charming home. But I rarely get to go to Jessie's for dinner because I don't own a car and BART doesn't go all the way to San Jose from the East Bay. Which is why this was a rare treat and I wanted to photograph it. Jessie was a good sport about it.

The focus of his dinner was this slow cooked short rib, which he made using a recipe he read in the New York Times. (By the way, this dinner includes several New York connections, so just a warning to those of you who gets turned off with all the New York references.) The recipe was adapted by "Sunday Suppers at Lucques" by Suzanne Gout and involves wine and port. Anything with that much alcohol has got to be good.
The main dish of short ribs is paired with roasted pearl onions. The recipe says to dress the onions in 2 tablespoon olive oil, 1 teaspoon thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper. Jessie roasted them in the oven at 425 degrees until tender. When they cool, he peeled off the skin and was left with the roasted tender pearls.
Another complement to the meat is this horseradish sauce. The recipe calls for 3/4 cup creme fraiche mixed with 1 tablespoon of prepared horseradish. Jessie didn't feel like hunting down creme fraiche (it's not something you can just get at the local grocery store) so he substituted with sour cream. He added some pepper and blended it well. I love horseradish.
Jessie's dinners always start with a nice cheese platter. He had three types of cheese: one hard cheese (manchego), a goat cheese, and this French cheese that was soft as butter.
One of our friends, Roger, who came with his wife, Denise, and two cute kids also contributed to the dinner with this lovely pea soup. Again, Roger got the recipe from The New York Times. Roger often looks to the Times for recipes because he used to work for the paper. Jessie knows Roger when Jessie lived in New York working for Newsday, which is also the same paper I worked for. (If you're keeping count, that's four mentions of New York. :) The soup was made with peas, bay scallops, oysters, watercress, and Pernod. It was so creamy and seductive.
Here's the main course, the braised short ribs that took more than 3 hours to cook in the oven to get that fall-off-the-bone meat. Jessie set the ribs on a bed of polenta and served it with sauteed red Swiss chard. He reduced the sauce and dressed the plate with it. Pure perfection! (See below for recipe.)
For dessert, Jessie ended dinner with these cute cupcakes. He got the recipe from the Magnolia Bakery cookbook. And yes, Magnolia Bakery is that popular bakery in New York's Greenwich Village. (And this is the last of the New York references, I promise.)

The cupcakes were vanilla with a butter cream frosting. It tasted so light and the frosting was so smooth, it was the perfect ending to a seductive supper. Thanks Jessie!

Braised Beef Short Ribs with Horseradish Sauce
(Reprinted from the New York Times, which adapted it from "Sunday Suppers at Lucques" by Suzanne Gout.)

Ingredients:
6 beef short ribs (14 to 16 oz. each)
1 T plus 1 t thyme leaves and 4 whole twigs
1 T pepper
3/4 cup creme fraiche
1 T prepared horseradish
36 pear onions
6 T extra virgin olive oil
1/3 cup chopped carrots
1/3 cup chopped celery
2 bay leaves
2 T balsamic vinegar
1-1/2 cup port
2-1/2 cup red wine
4 cups beef or veal stock
4 sprigs flat leaf parsley


Coat the short ribs with 1 tablespoon thyme and the cracked pepper. Cover and refrigerate overnight. (Jessie prepped the meat the same afternoon, and it seemed to work just as well.)

Make the horseradish cream sauce (per instructions above) and set aside.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Take the short ribs out of the refrigerator. After 30 minutes, season them generously with salt.

Cook the pearl onions per instructions above and when done, remove from oven and reduce heat to 325 degrees. Heat remaining olive oil in a large saute pan until almost smoking. Add the ribs and brown on all sides. Transfer to a braising pan, bone-side up, in one layer.

Reduce the heat to medium and add onions, carrots, celery, bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Cook until the vegetables begin to caramelize. Add the vinegar, port and red wine; reduce by half. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Pour over the ribs almost to cover. Add the parsley. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and then aluminum foil. Braise in the oven for 3 hours, or until meat yields easily to a knife. (Note: Jessie just used aluminum foil without the plastic wrap, so I think that's optional.)

Let the ribs rest for 10 minutes, then transfer them to a baking sheet. Turn up the oven to 400 degrees. Cook the ribs uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes to brown. Strain the broth into a saucepan and skim the fat. If the sauce seems thin, reduce it over medium high heat. Serve the ribs and juices on a bed of sauteed swiss chard and the pearl onions, with mashed potatoes (or polenta) and horseradish cream on the side.

Makes 6 servings.

Saturday, April 14, 2007

Purple Cauliflower at Whole Foods

When I was doing my grocery shopping this morning, I saw these purple cauliflower from Salinas at Whole Foods Market selling for $1.99 a pound. Aren't they beautiful? I didn't get any because purple cauliflower wasn't in my plans for this weekend, but I definitely am going to look for these again next weekend and maybe try to create something out of it? Maybe a crunchy salad?

Friday, April 13, 2007

Dish on Dining: Foreign Cinema

Now Playing: An Innovative Brunch Matinee
2534 Mission St., San Francisco
Mission District at 21st Street
PH: 415.648.7600
Dinner nightly; Saturday lunch, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.; and Sunday brunch, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
http://www.foreigncinema.com/
Reservations, major credit cards accepted


This venerable Mission District restaurant packs them in for dinner, as people tickle their taste buds with fresh French-California fare while movies like “Breakfast At Tiffany’s” play against a white courtyard wall. But while Foreign Cinema doesn’t have any matinees, the food still shines during the day. Especially for Sunday brunch as I discovered recently with my friends John and Jessie.

Since the movies are shown outside in the courtyard, it’s logistically impossible to have any playing during the day when the sun is out. Still, you get the whole film homage with the velvet rope in the front and the theater façade at the entrance. It’s all so Mission glamour on the red carpet.

You walk through a cavernous hallway to the reception area and then inside this beautiful loft-like dining room with brick walls, high ceiling and a cozy fireplace at the center. The interior really feels like a room in the Financial District rather than the Mission. Of course, there’s a bunch of outdoor seating where the movie plays and heaters work at full blast at night.

We started our brunch with some bloody mary’s because I just love them. But Foreign Cinema offers a variety of Champagne mixes with a movie twist such as the Bellini (wine and peach Schnapps) and French Kiss (vodka with Lillet and a splash of Brut Reserve champagne).

I was meeting with Jessie and his partner, John, because I’m helping to design John’s Web site. (He designs exquisite jewelry using gems he gets from his travels to Thailand.) But it’s been awhile since we’ve gotten together so we were too busy catching up, much to the chagrin of the server who had to come back a few times before we were ready to order.

Foreign Cinema’s menu changes daily and it often features seasonal ingredients. The chefs, Gayle Pirie and John Clark, are both graduates of the Zuni Café kitchen, so there are quite some similarities in the styling of the food—fresh, simple, green. And there’s also a nice oyster bar selection, similar to Zuni.
When we finally ordered, I went with the Two Poached Eggs with Grilled Duck Breast. My MO is always order duck when it’s on a restaurant menu because I love it and don’t like dealing with the mess of making it on my own. (The only exception to the rule is I don’t eat duck confit.) Jessie ordered the Fried Eggs Deglazed with Balsamic and John originally planned to get the Croque Monsieur but landed with the hearty House-Ground Natural Hamburger.

I loved my duck, as I often do. But more so with the execution at Foreign Cinema. The slices of medium-well duck breast with peppercorn where so tender they felt like they were melting in my mouth. They laid beautifully on a bed of mixed chicories lightly dressed with a sherry vinaigrette that blended so lovingly with the perfectly poached eggs. Definitely a best picture nominee, in my book.
Jessie also loved his contender, the fried eggs, which sounds simple enough but was taken to another level with the balsamic glaze that gave it a sweet-salty taste similar to hash browns or corned beef. It was served with a roasted garlic-potato hash and roasted escarole. John’s hamburger, I have to say, was the Sandra Bullock to Jessie’s and my Meryl Streeps. While thick and juicy, dressed up to the Oscars with gruyere, the taste was just OK.

We capped our brunch meal with a slice of dense chocolate cake and John’s favorite, affogatto (ice cream with espresso poured over). The cake was all right, but I’m no chocoholic. But the affogatto was incredible. I’d never try this dessert before because I’m not a coffee drinker, so I would never think of drowning my ice cream with it. But there was something magical about the two scoops of mint ice cream (traditional affogatto uses vanilla) blending with the aromatic coffee flavor of espresso. Sigh.
I can see why Foreign Cinema continues to attract the blockbuster crowds. It’s a scene and the food still tops the bill. (You can also check out their Web site to see which films are actually showing that week. But really, the movie is simply ambiance to the well scripted dishes.) Foreign Cinema’s brunch menu is also comparable to many brunch locations, averaging about $12 to $14 for the main entrees.

When you think Foreign Cinema, don’t just wait for a dinner show. The matinees are just as satisfying.
Single guy rating: 4.25 stars (this ain't no popcorn joint)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Foreign Cinema in San Francisco

Help A Cause By Eating

Foreign Cinema is just one of many restaurants in San Francisco, The East Bay, and across the country that will take part in Dining Out For Life on April 26, 2007 (Thursday night). On this night, if you eat at any participating restaurant, 25 percent of the restaurant's take will be donated to the Dining Out program, which supports HIV/AIDS program.

Dining Out started in Philadelphia and has spread to various cities and restaurants (ironically Los Angeles and New York are noticeably absent in this effort). In San Francisco, along with Foreign Cinema, you can dine at places like Andalu, Acme Chophouse, Mecca, Ebisu and Chaya Brasserie. In the East Bay, you can dine at fine restaurants like Dopo, Cesar and Bay Wolf, which are all helping the cause.

I encourage you all to go out on April 26 and pick a restaurant that's committed to the Dining Out event. It's rare that you can help a good cause by simply eating out.

Thursday, April 12, 2007

In the Kitchen: Dropping The Egg


Here's a quick and simple demo on creating egg drop or egg flower soup that's a common technique in Chinese kitchens. The flower patterns from the egg dropped into clear broth is commonly seen in such soups like hot and sour soup or cream corn soup. In this demo, I make my Rainbow Tofu Soup, which is one of the first soups my sister taught me when I first started cooking.

This soup (recipe below) is super easy and doesn't take long because I use frozen vegetables and the tofu and tomatoes don't need to cook that long. But all the ingredients together create this nice, colorful soup, which is why I call it Rainbow Tofu Soup. Also, if you haven't had soft or silken tofu as a soup, then you really should try it. It's healthy for you and the texture is so nice it's like eating creme brulee. OK, so it's not sweet and there's no crusty caramel top to break through. I'm trying my best. Give me a break! :)

Rainbow Tofu Soup

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
1 package soft or "silken" tofu (about 1 lb.), sliced into small cubes
2 Roma tomatoes, diced
1-1/2 cups frozen mixed vegetables
5 cups chicken broth
1 egg
3 T cornstarch
salt and pepper
cilantro for garnish

In a large saucepan, bring broth to a boil and add frozen vegetables, then reduce to medium low heat. Add tofu and tomatoes and season with salt and pepper to taste. Thicken your soup a bit with the cornstarch. In a small bowl, mix cornstarch with some water to create a slurry. Then slowly stir the cornstarch into your soup until it's slightly thicken.

For the egg, whisk it in a bowl and then slowly pour it into the soup in a thin, steady stream while stirring the pot at the same time. This will create a nice flower pattern out of the egg.

Remove from heat and serve in bowls garnished with a sprig of cilantro.

Makes 3 to 4 servings.

TIP: It's really important that you get soft or "silken" tofu. This tofu is a bit delicate to work with, but has the perfect smooth texture for soup. Regular or firm tofu is best for stir-fry.

FROZEN RAINBOW COLORS: I use the frozen mixed vegetables, which typically includes carrots, green beans and corn. This mix of three colors add nicely to the rainbow theme of this soup. If you're not into frozen vegetables, you can use fresh versions of these vegetables. Just be sure to dice them into small pieces and cook them first in the broth to soften them. If you dice them small, it should just take 15 to 20 minutes to cook them. Then add the rest of the ingredients.

Tuesday, April 10, 2007

The Baseball Buffet

Last week was the start of baseball season, and that means me over the next few months in front of my TV watching the Giants get older and wasting money. Sigh. Everyone knows being a San Francisco Giants fan can be frustrating. (Which is probably why I'm really a Yankees fan before calling myself a Giants fan.) There's the Bond effect. A new recycled manager from San Diego. And no real closer.

But all Giants fans can attest to the true reasons for watching the Giants play, and that's AT&T Park. Despite its many name changes (Pac Bell, SBC, ABC, EFG, etc.), it's one of the best place to be on a sunny weekend by the bay. Last week, a co-worker who has season tickets had an extra ticket for a night game. So I got to go to the game for free, and that gave me a chance to stroll the many new eateries added at the yard (the Giants are sprucing up the stadium with fancy new eateries and gadgets in preparation for hosting the All-Stars game this July). OK, this isn't new but I thought I should feature what's probably the most popular food item at the park, and that's the Gilroy Garlic Fries. I have to say, I haven't eaten the garlic fries because I generally don't eat deep-fried food. But I can say I've smelled my share of garlic fries. They sell for $6.50 a tray.
Panda Express apparently got the boot and in its place is this new Chinese food stand called Edsel Ford Fong. Never heard of them, and not really impressed by what I saw. I was excited to hear they had a Vietnamese sandwich for sale ... until I saw that it was $8. Aiya! I'll just pick up my bahn mi from the Tenderloin and just smuggle it into AT&T.
Safeway is a major sponsor of the Giants and I noticed several more Safeway stands around the park. While some of you might smirk at Safeway, I have to say they offer more reasonable offerings for people on a budget. Here they were selling Italian foccacia and turkey pesto sandwiches for $9 each and soup for $6.75. (Hey, that's pretty reasonable when you hear what's offered below!)
I don't know if this is new. Murph's Pub looks new to me, but maybe it's because I don't drink that often at games so never paid much attention. (You know, they could have spent the extra cash to buy a "Y" for its name and call themselves Murphy's.) Even if it's old, it seems to have expanded their presence and apparently, according to someone in line, they sell the best chili dog ($6.50). They also offer fish and chips ($9) and all sorts of Irish beer and Irish Coffee ($9.75), which is quite nice for a night game.
This is where you can get everything Niman. There was a Niman Ranch cheeseburger and a Niman Ranch hot dog. They also sold an ahi tuna sandwich with cream cheese for $10. California Cookout isn't new, but it is where I ended up getting the Niman Ranch hot dog for $6.50. I figured you have to have a hot dog at a baseball game, and in San Francisco, it might as well be Niman Ranch.
The Niman Ranch hot dog from California Cookout was actually very tasty and plump. The only downside? The bun was soggy from the juices so it was hard to pick it up and eat like a real dog. I would say it's a base hit, not a home run.
One of the newest offerings at the park is this stand selling what's called Crazy Crab sandwiches. I love crab and was excited about the idea of trying this out, until I found the stand and saw they were selling their sandwiches for $15. Yeah, you'd be crazy if you paid for this.
During the seventh inning stretch, I went hunting for another snack. I found this new North Beach stand that was selling a variety of Italian-influenced items, such as meatball sandwiches ($7.50) and a ravioli bowl ($7.25). I got the Stinking Rose 40 Clove Garlic Chicken Sandwich ($7.50), below.
The North Beach Stinking Rose Garlic Chicken Sandwich was a shredded chicken sandwich, similar to braised or boiled chicken. It was tasty and had a lot of juices so you know what that means? Yes, another soggy bun for the Single Guy Chef. So you have to eat this with a fork. I liked the flavor, although it wasn't very garlicky. It was a lot of chicken, though, so quite a value deal for the park.

In the end, there were a lot more food I need to discover at AT&T Park. But I still feel my tried-and-true food item that's most satisfying is the individual pizzas (cheese or pepperoni) because it sells so quickly that your pizza is often fresh and it's filling, all for $6.50.

For the night I was at the game, I'm happy to say the Giants beat the Padres, 5 to 3. Yes, it was the only game they won so far this season. Like they say, it's still early. But if this is any indication, I'd probably be more focused on checking out the variety of food at AT&T Park than the play on the field. (Thank God the Yankees are in town this weekend!)

Update: So the Giants won their second game of the season tonight. Just barely, at 6 to 5 against the Padres. Ironically, it was against the same pitcher (Clay Hensley) they beat last week when I was there. Maybe we should always play against this pitcher?

No Room For Food Fights

The recent discourse on the Web and in newspapers such as the New York Times and San Francisco Chronicle about manners on blogs got me thinking. Of course, much of the concerns over vitriolic debate rests with the political blogs, not one about risotto and spring rolls. (Although, I've known a few bloggers who can go on and on about homemade stock or the virtues of Rachel Ray.) Since I've been doing this blog for more than six months, I thought I should clarify some points about how I run this blog. I've delivered the fine print as an update in my profile, which you can view by clinking on "Chef Ben" under the contributors section to the right. There you'll see my "rules" (however minimal) and a bit about what this blog is all about. And now, put away your rolling pins and let's all play nice! :)

Monday, April 09, 2007

Business Lunch: Leftover Easter Ham

So were you like me and ended up making a big hunk of ham for Easter dinner? I was just planning to make a small ham, but the small hams cost just as much as the huge ham on sale. Crazy. So my freezer is stocked with lots of ham, and I also used some to make fried rice for lunch this week.

Fried rice is a quick way to use up common leftover ingredients: rice and meat. The best fried rice is based on leftover rice. If you use freshly cooked rice, it may have too much moisture to nicely fry up in your wok. (Note: I eat brown rice, so my fried rice looks a bit more brown because of that, not because I overloaded on soy sauce. You can use white rice if that's what you typically eat. Long grain is best.) And you'll see that this version of fried rice is simple because I use frozen peas and carrots. After cooking a big hunk of Easter ham, why worry about too many ingredients when preparing for lunch for work? I always have a bag of frozen vegetables handy for a quick meal. Enjoy!

Ham Fried Rice

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
3-5 cups leftover cooked rice *
6 oz. ham (or other meat), chopped to small bits
2 to 3 eggs
8 oz. frozen peas and carrots
2 T soy sauce
1 T cooking wine or sherry
1 T sesame oil
2 stalks green onion aka spring onions, chopped (using mostly the white and pale green part)
2 T Canola oil
salt and pepper

Pre-cook your eggs in a non-stick skillet. Simply scramble them and set aside. (Make sure you season your eggs when cooking.) The number of eggs depend on how much rice you’re using.

In a small bowl, mix sesame oil, soy sauce and cooking wine. Set aside.

In a large wok or skillet, heat Canola oil over high heat and then add frozen peas and carrots. Cook for about a minute and then add ham and continue cooking for another minute. Then add rice, breaking it up if needed with your hands before tossing it in the wok. Drizzle some of your marinade and blend well, seasoning with salt and pepper (you only need maybe a teaspoon of salt since you’re already adding soy sauce). Add green onions and cooked eggs and mix well, breaking egg into smaller pieces if needed. Garnish with some more green onions.

Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Pair with jasmine tea or green tea.

* Caution: This is the measurement of rice already cooked. If you don’t have cooked rice already and plan to make some, then you might want to use only 2 cups uncooked rice.


TIP: Leftover rice is the key ingredient to good stir-fried rice. Having sat in your refrigerator, the cooked rice won’t be as sticky so it can mix nicely with the rest of the ingredients and make your fried rice fluffy. Just be sure to break up the clumps before adding to the wok.

FROM FREEZER TO WOK: I find that the frozen peas and carrots can cook quickly in the high heat of the wok because they’re so small. But depending on how much ice comes with the peas and carrots, you may end up with a lot of moisture, which will make your rice soupy. So if you’re worried about moisture, bring your frozen peas and carrots out ahead of time to let the ice around them to thaw out. Or rinse them under cold water and let them sit in a colander to dry before adding to your wok.

CREATE YOUR FRIED RICE: The ham in this recipe can easily be replaced by your favorite meat ingredients. This can include chopped shrimp, Chinese roast pork (or char siu), roast duck strips or even Spam! (Yes, I’ve said it and you know that’s a possibility since I’m from Hawaii.) Just make sure your meat is pre-cooked so no meat juice will turn your rice into soup.

Sunday, April 08, 2007

Holidays Are Made For Sugar

It seems like every holiday always seem to circle back to sugar, namely chocolate. This particular Easter basket was spotted at Charles Chocolate Store in Emeryville. I'll blog more about my visit to the store later this week. Today, it's time for sitting back and feasting. Happy Easter!

Saturday, April 07, 2007

A Passover Treat For Everyone

Today I have a guest blogger: my co-worker Sue. It's Passover right now but I know nothing about traditional meals or dietary observations that occur during this time. But I do know Sue will probably bring in these great meringue cookies to the office. They literally melt in your mouth. You can make these anytime during Passover, which ends on Tuesday, but I think they're good the other times of the year, too!
Hi everyone. I’m from the East Coast (yes, for you regular readers of Single Guy Chef, I am the pizza snob) and was raised in a traditional Conservative Jewish family. Meaning, we didn’t eat shrimp, but neither did we go to the synagogue on a regular basis. My mother was an exceptional cook, especially the traditional meals that she prepared for special occasions and holidays. I enjoyed everything she served the family (except gefilte fish – don’t get me started on that). For Passover, she made matzo brei, brisket, kneidlach soup, tsimmes, and her famous farfel cookies – which I must say I ate raw as well as cooked. I know, I know…

So here for your dining pleasure is my favorite Passover meringue cookie recipe, which contains only Passover-approved ingredients. For those of you keeping score, that means, in addition to traditional kosher dietary restrictions (no pork, shellfish, or mixing of meat and dairy, etc.) the recipe has no bread, corn, corn syrup, soy, rice, or beans. I’ve heard these sweet little puffs of goodness described with words like “addictive,” “yumolicious” and “real tasty;” you be the judge.

Ingredients:
2 egg whites
1 t vanilla extract
2/3 cup granulated sugar
pinch of salt
2/3 cup shredded coconut

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Oil cookie sheets and set aside.

Beat egg whites until foamy (1 to 2 minutes). Add a pinch of salt and vanilla extract. Beat until stiff peaks form. Slowly add sugar until well combined. Gently fold in coconut. Place by tablespoon dollops on oiled cookie sheets about 2 inches apart. Cook for about 20 minutes – but watch that the bottoms don’t burn. Remove cookies from sheets and place on rack to cool. Makes about two dozen, depending on size of egg whites.

Note: At the folding stage, instead of the coconut, you can add mini chocolate chips or ground nuts. The recipe is pretty forgiving and fun to experiment with.

Have a good Pesach!

-- Sue

Thursday, April 05, 2007

Easter Dinner For One

This Sunday is Easter, and we always had a big celebration in my family when we were growing up. Turkey or ham was typically on the table. But when I started living on my own, Easter Sunday became less of a big celebration because unlike Thanksgiving, there were very few “orphan” Easter dinners. So I generally celebrate Easter alone, and I know there are probably a few of you who may be in the same boat. (I would invite you all over but I don’t think you’d all fit in my studio. Plus, I know some of you don’t celebrate Easter.)

That’s why I came up with this blog to give simple recipes, especially for events like this weekend when you might want something special but don’t want to go through a lot of hassles. To me, lamb chops are really easy to cook because they’re already so tasty that you don’t have to do much other than add salt and pepper and grill them. Because they can be eaten slightly rear, they’re also very quick to cook. (I like them a little more done; makes it easier to cut with the knife.) Roasted lamb seems really big these days for Easter dinner, but I think pan-frying lamb chops that have been French cut is simpler.
The recipe below dresses up my lamb chops for special occasions like Easter with this balsamic vinegar glaze. I also created a bed of tomatoes and fava beans to note the coming of spring. Just to be different, I saw these interesting brown-green tomatoes (pictured at the very top) at the store. They’re called Rosso Bruno tomatoes by Dulcinea Farms in Ladera Ranch, California (in Southern California). I thought they looked so unusual, almost like the blood oranges of tomatoes because of the dark color and the slight redness inside. This is a designer tomato because it was created by Dulcinea Farms and a Vancouver, B.C. partner about two years ago and it’s a combination of several European tomato varieties. They were kind of pricey, but I thought, why not? It’s a special occasion.

So after your period of fasting, hope you enjoy this simple feast for one.

Balsamic Vinegar-Glazed Lamb Chops

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
½ lb. lamb chops, French cut (about three pieces)
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
2 T brown sugar
2 T dijon mustard
3 T extra virgin olive oil
3 T fresh rosemary, minced
2 tomatoes, diced
½ cup fava beans, shelled
sea salt and pepper

Salt and pepper your lamb chops, then coat with olive oil and rosemary. (Remember to season and coat both sides.) Really work the rosemary in the chops by massaging the herbs with your fingers. Set aside.

Prepare your fava beans by removing beans from the pods, then blanching them in a bot of boiling water (remember to salt your water) for about 2 to 3 minutes. Then put the beans in a bowl of cold water. Remove the exterior skin. Set beans aside with tomatoes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the balsamic vinegar, sugar, mustard and a pinch of salt. Set aside.

In a large saute pan or skillet, cook the lamb chops over medium high heat for about 2 minutes on each side. Right before you’re almost done cooking both sides of the lamb, add about half of the balsamic vinegar mixture. Cook for another minute on high heat to create a slight glaze on your chops. (Flip your chops to get the coating on both sides.) Remove your chops and let them rest.

In the same skillet, add the rest of your balsamic vinegar mixture and cook over medium high heat with tomatoes and fava beans for about two minutes to let the sauce reduce a bit and let your tomatoes get a bit tender. When done, place on bottom of plate and pile on your chops.

Makes 1 serving. Serve with polenta or roasted rosemary red potatoes.

Pair with a glass of Syrah.

TIP: If you don’t have brown sugar or don’t necessarily like the deep flavor of brown sugar, then you can replace with regular sugar. You just need some kind of sugary substance to help create a quicker glaze effect when the balsamic vinegar starts to reduce. Also, if you don’t feel like tomatoes and fava beans, you can replace with mixed spring greens and drizzle the balsamic vinegar sauce over the salad as the dressing.

ON A BUDGET? TRY PORK: Even though I love lamb, I’ve found that French cut lamb chops can be pretty expensive. So you can do this same recipe using pork chops; just be sure to get the ones with the bones still on. You can save lamb for special occasions or when you feel like splurging.

Tuesday, April 03, 2007

Kara Baked Me Some Cupcakes

Recently I celebrated another birthday. Yes, still single and still getting older. Sigh. What can help me forget about getting older? Baked goods. I know, I know. I seem to talk about them so often when I always say I hardly eat them. What can I say? I'm a complex man who's getting older by the minute.

Since I moved back to the Bay Area six years ago, I've been searching for the best birthday cake every year. I had some good ones at that Patisserie on Union Street. Remember that? But they closed about three or four years ago. Then for convenience I got one at Whole Foods. Pretty but dry. One year I splurged and got one at the Miette Cakes at the Ferry Building. Ugh, the worst. Pretty and pretty expensive and the taste: zero. So superficial.

This year, I decided to forgo getting a whole cake and decided to get a cupcake. That's when I decided to make the trek to San Francisco's Marina District to visit for the first time the fairly new Kara's Cupcakes. Clearly, the pure definition of designer cupcakes.
Just visiting the store is an adventure in design for someone like me who has an interest in graphic design. The logo and color scheme are perfectly selected to showcase a whimsical feel with a sophisticated touch. Very impressive. But will it be like Miette? All sugary and sweet outside but nothing special inside?
Kara showcases her cupcakes like jewels in a case. The narrow store is typically crowded, but I got there early to get my pick of all the varieties, from the Meyer Lemony Lemon (above right) to the coconut and java.


The service was actually quite pleasant, but the pricing was typical Marina sugar boosted. Kara has two types of cupcakes: regular and filled, which sell for $3 and $3.50 each, respectively. I felt the filled cupcakes were interesting but they are slightly smaller than the regular cupcakes.

So as you can see from the first photo, I ended up getting three cupcakes (giving me more birthday wishes, I guess): a regular banana, the Meyer Lemony Lemon and the Passion Fruit. I loved the taste of the Passion Fruit, the Meyer Lemony was just very lemony, and the banana was better than I expected. While good and not too sweet, which is just right for me, it didn't blow my mind. The frosting, like all fancy cupcake makers, is a little over the top. Just too much of it. Still, it was a nice way to celebrate a birthday. I rather have Kara baking me a birthday cupcake than myself.

Kara's Cupcakes: 3249 Scott Street (at Chestnut), San Francisco. Open every day except Mondays. Credit card purchases require a minimum $10 purchase. Advanced orders accepted for special occasions.

Monday, April 02, 2007

Artichokes: Part Deux

So I had another big globe artichoke because Safeway was having a buy-one-get-one-free deal. These things are huge. Last week I made one artichoke into a pasta dish. This week I used my second artichoke and made it into a salad. Again, I used the same technique of cleaning up the artichoke and getting to the heart, then thinly slicing them using a mandoline and eating it fresh. The slight crunchiness of the artichoke reminded me of green papaya, so I made a salad similar to many I tried in Vietnam. Add some shrimp and this is a refreshing and seasonal dish with a Vietnamese flair. So simple and tasty. It makes me feel like eating fresh artichoke all the time without the time spent steaming or boiling. Enjoy!

Artichoke Shrimp Salad

Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
1 Globe artichoke
3 to 4 oz. medium to large shrimp
2 carrots, julienned into strips
1/2 cup crimini mushrooms, thinly sliced
salt and pepper
1 T extra virgin olive oil

Salad dressing:
3 T fish sauce
1 T rice vinegar
1 T sugar
1 bulb shallots, thinly diced
2 T extra virgin olive oil
juice from one lemon
1 red chili, julienned

cilantro and toasted sesame seeds for garnish

Start by preparing the dressing. In a small bowl, blend well the fish sauce, vinegar, shallots, sugar, lemon juice, red chili and olive oil together. Set aside.

Clean and devein shrimp. Season with salt and pepper then warm a tablespoon of olive oil in a pan. Pan-fry shrimp until opaque, about 2 minutes on each side.

Prepare globe artichoke
by removing outer leaves and revealing heart. Thinly slice heart using a mandoline. Add shrimp, carrots and mushrooms and toss with some of the dressing. Plate and garnish with sesame seeds and cilantro.

Makes 2 servings.

Serve with a glass of Riesling.

TIP: When you're slicing the artichoke, rub some lemon on the heart to prevent it from browning. Place in a bowl of cold water until ready to use.

SHRIMP TALES: When preparing the shrimp, it's easy to remove the skin and tail and then cook it. Makes it easier to eat as well. But some people like leaving the tail because it's nicer for the presentation and helps to retain some of the moisture of the shrimp when cooking. Your choice.

Sunday, April 01, 2007

This Is What Happens When I Get Bored

Last week I took a day off from work in the middle of the week because I had to stay at home and wait for a package from UPS. I had just ordered a new digital camera from Amazon but didn't realize they'd be sending it via UPS instead of the Postal Service (which I could have gone to the post office to pick up the package -- people in New York without a doorman knows my dilemma of getting packages sent to an apartment). So basically I had an unplanned day off but couldn't leave my apartment because I didn't want to miss getting my package. (And UPS does not tell you when they'll deliver, other than it'll be between 8:30 a.m. and 6:30 p.m. Great, thanks.)

So what did I do? I baked. I know, you're shocked because I always talk about how I don't bake because I don't usually like to eat all the sugar and fat in baked goods. But I was bored and brownies are one of those things that are easy to make because I typically have the main ingredients in my kitchen (flour, sugar, eggs, chocolate). I also recently saw a photo in Food and Wine Magazine that was sooo cool of these mascapone-swirled brownies. But instead of making that recipe, I thought it might be cool to use peanut butter instead. I loved Reese Peanut Butter Cups growing up, but I don't eat them any more. But I always like the combination of chocolate and peanut butter. So that's what I made, peanut butter brownies. Below is a photo of how they turned out and the recipe. They were pretty good, and I gave two pieces to the UPS man when he finally arrived at the end of the day with my new digital camera!

Peanut Butter Brownies

The following recipe was adapted from an original recipe published in the March 2007 edition of Food and Wine Magazine. Copyright belows to Food and Wine, even though the recipe below isn't exactly a reprint.
Ingredients:
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 t baking powder
1/4 t salt
4 oz. semisweet chocolate chips
2 oz. unsweetened chocolate, chips or powder
1 stick unsalted butter, softened (1/2 cup)
1-1/4 cup sugar
1 T plus 1/2 t pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk
8 oz. peanut butter

Preheat oven to 325 degrees

Butter and flour a 9-inch square baking pan. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a medium saucepan, melt the semisweet and unsweetened chocolate with the butter over low heat. Remove from heat and whisk in 1 cup of sugar and 1 tablespoon of vanilla. Whisk in the whole eggs, one at a time. Whisk the dry ingredients into the chocolate mixture until the brownie batter is smooth.

In a bowl, whisk the peanut butter with the egg yolk and the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla. Pour half of the brownie batter into the baking pan. Dollop the peanut butter mixture on top and cover with the remaining batter.

Bake the brownies for about 55 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out with a few crumbs attached. Let the brownies cool before cutting.

Makes 9 servings.

Serve with a glass of milk.

TIP: The peanut butter mixture can be a bit stiff to work with so it's easier to drop dollops of peanut butter onto the brownie batter by using a spatula and knife to scrape pieces and let them drop onto the batter like peanut butter nuggets. I know, doesn't sound appetizing but it's the easiest way to work with peanut butter.

STICKING WITH THE ORIGINAL: If you want to try the Food and Wine's original recipe of making this a mascapone-swirled brownie, then use 8 ounces of mascarpone cheese instead of the peanut butter and put half of the mascapone mixture in the middle, then cover with the rest of the brownie batter, then drizzle the remaining mascapone mixture on top. Get a knife and create swirls by cutting through the mascapone and brownie.

The brownies can be made and stored in the refrigerator for three days.