Saturday, May 31, 2008

Hawaii Leftovers

HONOLULU
So this is my last post about my Hawaii vacation. It really turned out to be a food vacation. Since I was spending a lot of time with my mom, and really all my mom likes to do is eat, that's pretty much what we did every day.

This is just a roundup of all the other food experiences I had during my trip that I really didn't squeeze into my earlier posts but I still thought was worth mentioning. Aloha!

Mother's Day was the main reason for my trip and I posted earlier about the Mother's Day brunch. But for dinner, we went to my mom's favorite Chinese restaurant and probably one of the more popular Chinese restaurant in Honolulu for family dinner. Royal Garden is known for its dim sum and then its seafood dinners. The restaurant is in the Renaissance Hotel, once known as the Ala Moana Hotel. It's adjacent to the Ala Moana Shopping Center and is a bit difficult to find because it's on the same level as the hotel pool. Some of the food we had that night was the shrimp with honey walnuts (above left), which was perfectly done by Royal Garden. The shiny sweet sauce around the shrimp was a wonderful glaze and not gloppy mayonnaise that you sometimes see at other restaurants. Another regular dish we order that's a little special is the Seafood Bird Nest, which is stir-fry seafood in a bird nest created by deep-frying taro or potato strips. I love ordering this dish. Below is a tofu casserole (on the left), which is another favorite of my mom because the skills to create the tofu in this nice, soft tofu pocket requires a sophisticated chef. On the right is a special 8 treasures duck that's been braised. It's the kind of dish that needs to be ordered 24 hours in advance.



Doesn't this look like a scene from some store in Japan? It's actually in the food department of Shirokiya, which is one of the largest Japanese grocery/house wares store in Hawaii. It's been around for years since I was a kid, and it consistently offers everything you need to look for when looking for genuine Japanese food. Shirokya, at the Ala Moana Shopping Center, is also where you buy the mochicreams I blogged about this week. The food section of Shirokiya is also where you can buy some great bento boxes, which make a great packed lunch to take to the beach.

Spam musubi!!! Yep, you see it everywhere in Hawaii. I didn't eat any while I was there, especially since I can just make it myself if I ever get the urge. Still, I wanted to show you a picture of it so you won't think it's an urban legend that people in Hawaii love their Spam. :)

Here are some ramen noodles at Goma-Ichi. My mom and I came here for lunch one day. They have the best broth but I felt the ramen was a bit overcooked. Still, my mom loved the tender pork slices in her Char Siu Shoyu Ramen (left) and I loved the broth of my Tan Tan Ramen (right). This is a cute, small place with a 16-seat bar in the center and 4 tables that seat four on the side. It's conveniently located a couple of blocks north of the new Nordstrom. The only negative I have to say about Goma-Ichi is that I felt they were stingy with the ramen. My mom and I both left feeling a bit hungry, and we also ordered a side of gyoza. (BTW, the gyoza was fantastic! It had a nice thin skin with a nicely pan-fried edge. Mmmmm.)

Right before I went to the airport on the day I left, I went with my mom to Like Like Drive-Inn, which is like an institution in Hawaii. (BTW, it's pronounced LEE-kay LEE-kay.) It's an old-time diner that's famous for its saimin. I had the omelet with portuguese sausages and rice. It was all right. I think most people go for the local-style saimin. But after seven days of constant eating, some simple rice and omelet was all I needed.

Royal Garden Chinese Restaurant, 410 Atkinson Dr., Honolulu. PH: 808.942.7788
Shirokiya at the Ala Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu. PH: 808.973.9111
Goma-Ichi, 631 Keeaumoku St., Honolulu. PH: 808.951.6666
Like Like Drive Inn, 745 Keeaumoku St., Honolulu. PH: 808.941.2515

Jamie's Back

Jamie Oliver's "Jamie At Home" series on the Food Network have new episodes and I'm watching the first new episode this morning. It's all about B-B-Q. What's funny is that he's cooking barbeque at what looks like a British country side, which doesn't really say BBQ to me but spring meadow. Anywho, the BBQ looks juicy although he just burned a bulb of onion. :) I didn't realize there would be new episodes of Jamie on Food Network, I just thought they were going to rerun the past episodes again and again like they usually do. So it's nice to see a "new season" of Jamie. I'm not going to do recaps of this new run, but will definitely be watching every Saturday morning.

Jamie at Home's new season airs every Saturday at 9:30 a.m. on the Food Network.

Friday, May 30, 2008

Travel Dish: Restaurant EPIC (Honolulu)

A Makeover That Hits the Mark … Mostly
1131 Nuuanu Ave., Honolulu
Between Chinatown and Downtown
Open lunch, Mon.–Fri., 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; dinner daily, 5–10 p.m. (till 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday)
PH: 808.587.7877
Major credit cards, reservations accepted
www.restaurantepic.com


HONOLULU
For the last dinner of my Hawaii vacation, I went with my mom, brother and niece to a restaurant that will probably come to symbolize a place for second chances.

Let me break it down. Restaurant EPIC opened in February 2007 near the Hotel Street district of Honolulu. This is an area of old downtown Honolulu that is known for its red-light district but over the years has become home to art galleries and a few buzz-worthy restaurants like Indigo. EPIC opened with some buzz as well because its opening chef, Anthony Vierra, came from the quaint and popular downtown lunch spot, Grand Café & Bakery.

Just one month after EPIC opened in its location on Nuuanu Avenue, it closed abruptly. Vierra returned to Grand Café with little explanation other than something to do with “divergent minds” over the menu with the owners. The gossip, according to my brother, was that Vierra wasn’t quite ready to run a full-fledge restaurant serving dinner and the food got mixed results.

After a few months of what was officially a “remodeling,” EPIC reopened in the summer with a new chef with a bit more kitchen creds—Chef David Hoffman who worked in the kitchen of Hawaiian culinary hero Roy Yamaguchi of Roy’s. Hoffman has brought his version of Yamaguchi’s once-groundbreaking Hawaiian fusion cuisine (local Hawaiian ingredients with Asian cooking influences) to EPIC. (EPIC, in fact, is an acronym for Euro-Pacific International Cuisine, and not a reference to the epic hopes of management.)

I’m one who believes in second chances in life, so I arrived for dinner with no preconceptions in my mind (which meant I avoided reading the Yelp reviews). The restaurant is right at the corner of Nuuanu and Pauahi, and its old town exteriors masks the grandiose interiors of gold and red décor. The restaurant name was everywhere, including big gold letterings on the main wall of the dining room.

We were seated in the bar area because I had made reservations at the last minute. But that was fine because we were near the window. The bar was filled with a combination of after-work, happy hour, pre-dinner patrons. EPIC’s menu has several options for appetizers and specialty drinks to keep people happy.

Much of the Hawaiian fusion comes in the appetizers and raw fish selection, with things like a poketini (ahi tuna poke). The entrées are split into two sections—makai and mauka. When visiting Hawaii, you have to get used to people giving directions like “makai side” or “mauka end.” Makai is Hawaiian for beachside and mauka means mountain. So on the Makai side of EPIC’s menu, you get the seafood selections and Mauka lists all the meat and poultry.

We started with the Heirloom Tomato Salad ($8), which isn’t really Hawaiian. I can get lots of beautiful heirloom tomatoes during the summer in the Bay Area. But I was intrigued by the description of pickled mango gelée served along with mozzarella and basil.

When it arrived, it was definitely a beautiful plate of fresh tomatoes and mozzarella. But I couldn’t find the mango gelée. What I did get was a lot of the li hing mui powder, a weird trend a few years ago where everything in Hawaii was sprinkled with the sweet and tart powder used to marinate preserved plums sold as candy. Everything got the li hing touch, which I wasn’t a fan of. Thankfully, the chef’s sprinkling of li hing on the tomato salad was a bit more measured.

Next came a plate of the Kalua Pork Spring Rolls ($8). This isn’t necessarily the most original concept of stuffing crunchy spring rolls with the Hawaiian standard of kalua pig (or slow-roasted shredded pork). But it was well done. The spring roll skin was thin, which makes it nice and crunchy when deep fried. The pork inside was moist, and everything was served with a tropical-looking pineapple chutney that had just a slight bit of heat from chili peppers. My niece loved it.

For our entrées, I ventured into the Makai area while the rest of my family headed Mauka. I got the EPIC Seafood Paella ($25) because I love paella and wanted to see how this chef created his Hawaiian version. When it arrived, it was colorful and filled with an assortment of local clams, crab, shrimp, rock fish and scallops, but it lacked authenticity. One, because it wasn’t in a paella pan, which I can overlook because it could have been cooked in one and served separately; two, and most importantly, it didn’t have the bits of crunchy rice from the bottom of the pan known as “socarrat.” So really, the rice felt more like risotto than paella.

While EPIC’s paella is rich with a variety of ingredients, it was slightly on the bland side, needing more Spanish spices like maybe pimentón (smoked paprika) or saffron.

Chef Hoffman seems to do better with seasoning for the meat dishes because all my family’s entrées tasted delicious when I tried them. My brother got the Cochon ($24), which is a French cut bone-in pork served with apple chutney and a cassoulet of Tuscan white beans, pancetta and haricot vert in a balsamic reduction.

My niece got the Grilled Rib Eye Steak ($28), which was a tender piece of meat with a nice char outside, served with truffled Yukon potato wedges and garnished with crispy onion strips. My brother said the rib eye tasted better than my mom’s Filet Mignon ($32), but I actually preferred the filet mignon which had a milder taste. But it was obvious that both meat dishes benefited from quality sourcing and a tempered hand in getting the right doneness. (Both were ordered medium rare.)

I do have to note that both my niece and mom’s meat dishes were serve pretty much like standard steakhouse dishes, lacking any Hawaiian finesse or fusion. But if you have a good piece of meat, why dress it up with a lot of unnecessary accessories?

We ended our dinner by sharing the crème brulee ($7) and the seasonal fruit tart ($7) with vanilla ice cream. The crème brulee, one of my favorite desserts, was nicely done with a thin caramelized top cracking into a creamy filling. The tart was less successful. While it had fresh fruits with a nice sauce, the tart itself wasn’t that flakey and seemed to lose its battle with the sauce.

The service was very friendly, with our waiter making us feel comfortable and enthusiastically answering our questions about the menu. He would also strike up conversations with us in between service, which I always think is nice so you feel more at home.

Even though I never ate at the original EPIC, what I tasted this time seems to indicate that it was a right move for them to close down and reassess. While the food could improve here and there, overall it was a pleasant and interesting dining experience well worth a second try.

Single guy rating: 3.5 stars (touches of Hawaii elegance)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Thursday, May 29, 2008

Top Chef: Season 4, Episode 12

One Steak Short of the Finale

Previously: Lisa is mad at Dale over rice, Dale is screaming to get the food out, and Dale doesn’t like Lisa’s attitude at the judge’s table. But the judges turn on Dale and he’s sent packing.

The cheftestants are getting closer to winning all these prizes and in two episodes we find out who wins the title of … TOP CHEF.

Wow, the sunrise is extra golden this morning in Chicagoland. Maybe it’s because the Windy City knows the cheftestants will be packing it up soon and leaving, so they want the day to start off perfectly. Ah, Chicago, you big Midwest Metropolitan Town. You done well, even though you weren’t able to get Oprah as a guest judge.

Everyone’s already up and putting on their white chef’s jacket. No more early morning wake up calls. No more shirtless guys shaving. Let’s just get to the food!

Quickfire challenge. The cheftestants don’t arrive at the Top Chef Kitchen but instead are taken to a place called Allen Brothers. We hear from Richard that it’s a “nationally recognized meat purveyor.” They’re greeted by a woman who issues them the USDA-required attire—lab coats, unusually glowing turquoise gloves and the masculinity-killing hairnet. You can’t even tell which one is Richard because you can’t see his faux hawk covered up. Why does Spike look like he’s wearing his hairnet over his mouth?

The woman shows them a rack of meat that has this long-ass description. Something about American long bone rib eye dry aged Flintstones steak. Whatever, it’s just a big piece of meat. The cheftestants have 20 minutes to cut them into individual chops and then “French” them, which basically means to scrape down the meat off one end of the bone to create a lollipop effect.

They all look like they’re struggling with even holding up the rack of meat, except Spike who seems to get all Benihana on that meat, which I learn is a Tomahawk steak. I don’t really eat a lot of meat so this is the first time I’ve ever heard of a Tomahawk steak. I would have called it the Flintstones’ brontasaurus cut. Remember those? What’s funny is the butchers in the back are just going on with their own business; they could care less about these five chefs struggling with their knives and meat.

When time’s called, they pack up their meat and head back to the Top Chef Kitchen. There to greet them is Padma and guest judge, James Beard-winner Chef Rick Tramonto, co-owner of Tru Restaurant in Chicago. Their challenge isn’t about creativity or taste, but more about temperature and knife skills. Chef Tramonto orders up a Tomahawk steak from each of them at medium rare, in 30 minutes. Go!

Everyone has different techniques in cooking meat, but most of them are doing that technique I see a lot where they have the meat in a sauté pan filled with butter or sauce and they just keep flipping the sauce over and over on the meat with a spoon, like a constant basting. Lisa says cooking a steak medium rare is second nature to her and she can tell when it’s done by touch, but then she says the pressure is on so she’s starting to second guess herself. Wow, she cracks pretty easy under the pressure, doesn’t she?

Stephanie doesn’t fire up her meat too early and likes to let it rest for at least five minutes. At one point when she’s basting her steak, she splatters some hot butter on Lisa. I think they all have it in for Lisa, who later in this episode gets an unfavorable spot in front of a wood-burning oven. But I’m getting ahead of myself. All the meat looks really juicy and I could go for a nice Tomahawk right about now.

Padma lets Chef Rick cut into each meat and he doesn’t even take a bite! He’s just cutting it to see the redness inside and then just saying OK or not. Sometimes he’ll ask how they cooked it, but other than that this is the most boring judging of a quickfire challenge so far this season.

Chef Rick says the least successful was Stephanie, because the butchering of her meat wasn’t clean and it was undercooked. Richard’s meat also suffered from inconsistent butchering and undercook-ness.

For the rest, Chef Rick liked Lisa’s steak that was cooked well and he called Spike’s butchering skills “amazing.” He also liked the crust on Antonia’s steak (is anyone else’s mouth watering yet?) and the inside was cooked perfectly, but in the end Spike’s mad butchering skills gives him the win. But no immunity. He just gets some “important decision” in the elimination challenge.

Padma tells the cheftestants that they’re entrusting something really precious to the cheftestants. What could that be? Caviar? Truffles? Padma’s credibility as a chef? Turns out it’s the full reigns of Chef Tramonto’s new steakhouse, Tramonto’s Steak and Seafood. Granted, these are supposed to be the top five best chefs in the Top Chef Season 4, so I don’t think it’s such a big risk. But we get a few minutes of Chef Tramonto begging the cheftestants not to screw it up and ruin the fledgling reputation of his new place.

They each have to come up with an appetizer and an entrée that will be on that night’s menu. Then they’ll work dinner service, which happens to be fully booked. Sounds like Chef Tramonto got a sweet deal out of this challenge. Five chefs in the kitchen and publicity to pack your new restaurant for the night, not bad. Spike also gets the advantage of selecting his protein first for his dishes.

Back at the cheftestants’ apartment, it looks like they’re all having Tomahawk steaks for dinner. Spike talks about his master butchering skills and says he got it from his grandfather who was a butcher. Spike also thinks Stephanie will win Top Chef, and I agree. Even though she’s been shaky in the beginning, I think her restaurant experience is beginning to kick in. Of course, Spike wants Antonia to go home. I think he’s still bitter that she wouldn’t let her make butternut squash soup. (Spike, give it up already!)

In the kitchen, Richard does a product placement for Glad bags.

Commercials. Bridezillas are scary, and they can’t sing.

It’s night time and the cheftestants are escorted in their SUVs (really, do they need so many cars when there’s only five of them?) to Tramonto’s Steak and Seafood, which I have to say looks darn fancy. It’s those high-end steakhouses with handsome décor and ruby velour chairs. In the kitchen, everyone’s still admiring the big space with wood-burning oven when Antonia asks Spike when he’s going to pick his protein and he’s all like, what’s the rush bitch, and she’s like, the clock started ticking four minutes ago doofus. OK, those weren’t exact quotes, but it’s not like they’re friends.

Spike dashes into the walk-in coolers and goes for the Tomahawk (how original) and the bag of scallops because he already had in mind that he wanted to do something with scallops. I love scallops and they’re a classic pairing with meat, especially when nicely seared. Other cheftestants think the same way I do, but they all quickly point out that the bag of scallops are frozen and they’re suspicious about whether it’ll be of good quality. Everyone else takes turns going in to grab their ingredients, and given that Chef Tramonto probably has a well-stocked cooler, it wasn’t really a big of a challenge to find alternate ingredients.

Stephanie is talking to herself as she’s going over her ideas for the menu and shaving some mushrooms. She says she’s going to make sweetbreads, and if you’re from Hawaii like me I bet the first thing that came to your mind was King’s Bakery sweet bread, right? Oh, I miss that. It’s a Portuguese bread that’s sweet and almost cake like. I loved it growing up. But in most cooking circles, when they say sweetbreads, they’re talking about the leftover glands of an animal. Ugh, not the same thing. I’ve always avoided sweetbreads on menus because of that fact that they’re leftover meat parts, but after hearing Stephanie describe how they’re like chicken nuggets when fried properly, now it sounds interesting.

Lisa is trying to step up her game so she’s talking about making peanut butter mashed potatoes to go with her steak. BTW, they each stake a spot in the kitchen and Lisa happens to be in front of the wood-burning oven so she’s getting really hot and bothered. She’s extra feisty, especially with the exchange she just has with Antonia, who’s her usual smart-alec self.

Spike finally opens his scallops, and like everyone guessed, they’re pretty soaked in moisture because of all the defrosting and they’re starting to fall apart instead of staying firmly together. But instead of giving up on the scallops, he starts rolling out paper towels to try to absorb some of the water.

Chef Tom Colicchio comes in and checks in with everyone. He chats with Antonia about Spike’s scallops, talks to Stephanie about her winning Top Chef, takes some bacon from Richard and, predictably, makes a weird face over Lisa’s peanut butter mash.

He then talks to Spike and it’s all about the scallops. We get it. Frozen, bad. Spike, stupid. Advantage, gone.

Chef Tom tells the chefs that 60 guests will arrive in an hour, including three VIP guests. He also says that he’ll be acting as the “expeditor” for the kitchen. I never heard of this either, but an expeditor in the kitchen is the person who monitors the pacing of the dishes that are ordered and sent to each table. That sounds like a fun job, all you do is boss people around without sweating over the hot stove. BTW, I’ve been to a few restaurants that would have really benefited from having an “expeditor.”

Commercials. Wii is trying to get people to get fit with its new console where you pretend to be exercising or playing hula hoops. Umm, just go out and walk or swim. It’s cheaper.

In the kitchen, Lisa is telling people to get out of her way. Chef Tom gathers the cheftestants together and introduces the three VIP guests: Harold, Ilan, and Hung … the past three Top Chefs. They each give them advice: Harold says cook your own style, Hung says don’t worry about being the fan favorite (because he wasn’t), and Ilan says don’t shave anyone’s head tonight (the most uncomfortable segment to watch in Top Chef history, IMHO). BTW, Ilan, I’m sure you could have used some of your prize money to buy a nice coat instead of just wearing a T-shirt to a fancy steakhouse.

The three former Top Chefs join the main table with Padma, Gail and Chef Tramonto. All the other restaurant’s guests look over the menu from the five chefs and makes various selections, but the judges’ table orders a tasting menu of everything. So now the cheftestants have to cook for the rest of the restaurant but also prepare mini tasting dishes for the judges. For some reason this seems to throw them for a loop.

They start with the appetizers and here’s how it went down:

Lisa’s grilled and chilled prawns: Hung wants more sugar, and everyone loves the lemon, but Gail doesn’t like cold shrimp.

Richard’s hamachi with sweetbreads: Chef Rick loves the flavor and wants to steal it for his menu, and pretty much everyone is loving the dish.

Spike’s scallops with hearts of palm: Chef Rick hardly touches his plate, just playing with his food. Everyone doesn’t like the dehydrated scallops.

Stephanie’s sweetbreads with golden raisin and pine nuts: Harold’s only negative comment is that the pine nuts should have been toasted, but otherwise everyone loves this as well.

Antonia’s warm mushroom and artichoke salad with poached egg: Gail says it wasn’t the strongest dish but the egg was poached perfectly.

Now the entrees. (BTW, Tom looks really in his element as the expeditor. He looks like he’s having the most fun in this episode.)

Richard’s beef fillet: Everyone says wow at the presentation. Harold wonders if all the elements worked well together, and Padma’s all like, then put it together instead of this deconstructed shit. (Padma can get pretty passionate about her meat, as you can tell.)

Lisa’s New York strip steak with apple caramel sauce. Everyone’s nervous about the peanut butter, but Chef Rick digs the nuttiness. Ilan thinks the beef is under-seasoned.

Spike’s Tomahawk with sweet potato puree: Ilan thinks the meat is OK by itself and says at this stage of the game he wants his mind blown and sweet potato puree isn’t going to do it. Rick doesn’t say much again.

Stephanie’s beef tenderloin with wild mushrooms and apple sauce: Padma thinks it’s gorgeous. It seems to be a judge favorite.

Antonia’s bone-in rib eye with fennel and cippolini: Ilan loves the fattiness of the meat, but it’s very rich.

The night’s over and the cheftestants arrive in the stew room for one last time. They bust out the wine in plastic cups, and Padma arrives to ask all of them to join the judges.

Padma starts off by asking Richard how he thinks he did, and he’s about to get into it until his mind tells him to stop because this is how cheftestants typically hang themselves, so he turns the tables and ask how she thinks he did. Well played King Richard. Chef Tramonto says his hamachi-sweetbread appetizer was his favorite, and Gail says his main course was undercooked and inconsistent.

For Stephanie, Tom says she had a lot on the line but she never showed any pressure in the kitchen except right this moment in front of the judges. To which she replies: “because you guys are freaking me out.” Chef Tramonto says he liked how her sweetbreads were cooked (sweetbreads are like a sure-fire appetizer it seems).

Gail tells Lisa that she liked the lemon (I missed what exactly she did with the lemon, but the combination of lemon and shrimp isn’t so groundbreaking) but wished that the shrimp was warm. She says butter on cold shrimp made the overall dish seem congealed. For the main course, Chef Tramonto says he really wanted to hate it, but after he ate it he thought it was interesting. But just interesting. He thought if she had better technique, it would have been extraordinary. And this sums up our girl Lisa.

All they had to say for Antonia was that of all the dishes, hers looked the most like something on a steakhouse menu.

And finally, Spike the Faker. Gail says the meat was cooked well. Then it’s all about the scallops. Tom says to get this far and use frozen scallops shows a lack of judgment. Chef Tramonto says when you work at a restaurant and you get poor quality product, then you change your plans. Then Spike does the foot-in-the-mouth routine by talking back to the “guest” judge and says, well Mr. Tramonto, if the scallops were of such poor quality, what were they doing in your restaurant’s cooler? Nooooo he did-nt. Chef Tramonto says he’ll take that shot if Spike the Faker lives up to his using a poor product.

Spike realizes what just happens and tries his best to back peddle but they’re all walking out and all he can do is some massive kissing up by going up to Chef Tramonto and shaking his hand saying “it was an honor.” In the stew room, Spike worries that Chef Tramonto takes a Tomahawk and chops Spike out of the game.

The judges deliberate some more and you can tell from the descriptions of the food that Stephanie is the surefire frontrunner going into the finals. Everyone’s just loving what she cooked up. They all say something nice about Richard and Antonia, too, but really it’s a Stephanie-fest.

So that just leaves Spike and Lisa on the chopping block. Tom says both of them have issues. Chef Tramonto says he likes Spike’s spunk (I guess the last-minute kiss up did work) but he wanted more. Gail says both their dishes were equally bad. I say send both of them home.

Commercials. I’m digging that new Coldplay song, exclusively on iTunes.

Judgment. All five cheftestants return and they hold hands like they’re going to be crowned Miss America. Chef Tramonto says the person who stuck out is (no surprise) Stephanie, and he gives her his latest cookbook as she eagerly lets him know that she already has his first few. Tom also reminds her that this means she’ll be in the finale, and that should be enough but Padma also gives Stephanie an entire suite of cooking appliances from GE just like they have in the Top Chef Kitchen. Or did she say she’s getting the exact same ones from the Top Chef Kitchen? Either way, I hope Stephanie has a big kitchen because those are some big-ass appliances.

Tom tells Richard that his appetizer was the favorite appetizer and he’s going to Puerto Rico for the finale. Antonia’s entrée was the favorite entrée and she’s Puerto Rico-bound as well. So far this is going exactly per the script. The three cheftestants are excused and they whoop it up in the stew room with Richard falling all over Stephanie at one point. Hope his wife isn’t watching.

That leaves Angry Lisa and Spike the Faker. At this point I could care less who advances. Wow, Lisa is really working her angry face. Tom goes down memory lane of how many times each of them has been in the bottom. Tom basically tells Lisa she has to show her passion more and Spike has to make better judgment. Then Padma sends Spike packing, and he’s not surprised. Disappointed, yeah. Surprised, I don’t think so. Unless he’s faking it.

This means Lisa makes the final four and gets a Puerto Rico trip out of it. Now I’m a little worried that she might do well because this might be the kick in the pants she needed to step it up.

Spike, meanwhile, is packing up his knives in some weird wooden box with his name burned onto the side. He’s not using the normal black cloth case that other chefs use. So Spike takes his box of knives and goes home, not playing this silly game any more.

The final four say a few more words about the finale. Lisa says it’s a clean slate for her and she’ll shock the judges, Antonia pats herself on the back, and Richard says he now knows how the game is played. Really? It took you this long?

Next week: They’re on a sandy beach of Puerto Rico, San Juan is exploding in color and dance, and it looks like Lisa has a new haircut.

Top Chef airs Wednesday nights at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Check out videos and multiple blogs at the Top Chef Web site. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Travel Tastes: Mochicream (Honolulu)

Like a Box of Chocolates Without a Scorecard

HONOLULU
There’s no denying the Japanese influence on Hawaii. Growing up here, Japanese-Americans were the largest ethnic group in the state. And Hawaii’s No. 1 industry—tourism—continues to rely on visitors from Japan. So it’s no surprise that many trends from Japan hit the shores of Hawaii before they get to the continental United States (what we locals refer to as “the mainland”).

Earlier this year, Food & Wine came out with a list of foods to taste in 2008. One of the things mentioned were mochicream, made from the traditional Japanese rice cakes but injected with a creamy filling. Not since the explosion of mochi ice cream in the 1990s has such a mochi treat created such buzz.

I searched for these in San Francisco’s Japantown and nobody heard of this, although I could find regular mochi in an assortment of flavors like mango and chocolate. Mochi, for the uninitiated, is a chewy, sticky rice treat shaped into balls and made into various colors, but mostly white. It’s traditional for the New Year but popular like candy the rest of the time.

As far as I can tell, Hawaii is the only place in the United States where you can find the aforementioned mochicream. (If you know anywhere else to find them on the mainland, let us know in the comments section!) So during my recent vacation, I visited Shirokiya at the Ala Moana Shopping Center to check out this mysterious new taste for 2008.

Shirokiya is one of the largest department stores in Hawaii that’s specifically focused on Japanese goods. From house wares to specialty Japanese foods (fresh and packaged), you’ll find it at Shirokiya. On the first floor across from its bakery, they’ve set up a spot for mochicream, selling it under glass like jewelry.

First off, they all look soooo pretty. The varying pastel shades were like a canvas of springtime. There are also many flavors to choose from, and you can easily mix and match to choose a box of mochicream. The cost is a premium for the tiny mochi balls: $1.50 each for straightforward flavors, $1.60 each for special yogurt fillings and $1.80 each for the ultra fancy truffle creams.

I got a box of six and the flavors I selected were Green Tea, Sakura (Japanese cherry), Caramel, Melon, Peach and Double Mango (this was one of the $1.80 ones). The woman behind the counter says the mochicream can sit out for two hours at room temperature, but any longer they should be refrigerated because of the cream filling.

I should also note that I had heard mixed reactions from my sister and niece who had already tried the mochicream. Still, I brought my box home, cut them into pieces and forced my family to do a taste test with me.

All the mochicream have a wonderful, soft exterior that was the right consistency of fresh mochi. And like I said, they were all very pretty. But the distinguishing factor is the filling, which can often be a sweet (or too sweet) cream.

My niece and I liked the peach flavor, which wasn’t overly sweet like how many mochicream flavors can be. But we felt the melon flavor fell into that category, almost like achingly sweet candy. The sakura flavor was very subtle, almost bland, and the double mango was just OK.

The worst was the green tea, with the exterior coated with powdered macha. (None of us could finish our bites.) It had a nasty flavor that didn’t blend well with the mochi. But my favorite was the caramel, which reminded me of eating a light Chantilly cake.

I’m sure there are other mochicream flavors that might be enjoyable, just like how there are probably some like the green tea flavor that might turn you away from trying another mochi treat ever again. Unless you try it often, mochicream is like a box of chocolates. Some are surprisingly good while others you just want to secretly sneak back into the box. (As for me, I rather stick with mochi ice cream.)





Shirokiya at the Ala Moana Shopping Center, 1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu. PH: 808.973.9111. Web site

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

Travel Dish: Shokudo Japanese Restaurant & Bar (Honolulu)

I’m in the home stretch of my posts from my recent vacation in Honolulu. Gosh, I didn’t realize how much I ate during this trip until I started blogging about it. But don’t worry, this vacation slide show is definitely coming to an end. The following is one of four final posts that should wrap up my Hawaii vacation posts this week.

Fun and Wacky Dishes with Friends or Family
1585 Kapiolani Blvd., Honolulu
Ground floor of Ala Moana Pacific Center near Ala Moana Shopping Center
Open Sun.–Thu., 11:30 a.m.–1 a.m.; Fri.–Sat., 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m.
PH: 808.941.3701
Reservations recommended, major credit cards accepted
Validated parking behind the restaurant
www.shokudojapanese.com


HONOLULU
Most of my vacation was spent with my mom and family, but I saved one Friday night for a mini reunion with some high school friends. I told them I wanted to go to someplace new and fun and that’s how we ended up at Shokudo Japanese Restaurant a few yards down from the new Nordstrom parking structure on Kapiolani Boulevard.

Shokudo has actually been open for more than two years, but it was new to me (and my friend Margaret who suggested the place). Its name means “dining room” and shouldn’t be confused with “sudoku,” which is the Japanese mind puzzles. (For some reason, I had “Sudoku” on my mind and I kept telling my family that’s where I was going that night. They were completely confused.)

When I arrived, the restaurant looked like a ramen noodle shop with its bright colors and somewhat tacky letterings. Sitting outside was my friend Leslie, who got there early because her optometry office is just a few steps away. (BTW, if you’re looking for an optometrist in Honolulu, you should check out my friend Leslie. She’s really nice and her new place is centrally located on Kapiolani Boulevard near Ala Moana and, of course, Shokudo. Tell her Chef Ben sent you!)

We went in to claim our table at this bustling place and ordered some drinks and a couple of pupus (Hawaiian for appetizers) while we waited for the rest of the gang. Leslie says she comes here often with her young kids, and I can see why. The place is loud, so kids could scream and no one would bother. Since this was a Friday night, however, I saw mostly young people at the bar ready to kick off the weekend with some specialty drinks. I got the specialty cucumber mojito, and the drinks totally remind me of a place like T.G.I.Friday’s where everything is colorful and crazy. (One of my friends later ordered something called “Lava Flow.”)

The place was splashed in red, including this huge red-cloth lantern in the center of the dining room. The servers were all young and dressed in black. They were all very friendly and fun to chat with.

Leslie and I ordered the Seafood Dynamite ($9.95) because I remembered how fun it was when I had it at Nihon Whisky Lounge in San Francisco. Leslie also ordered the Tofu Salad ($8.95) because that’s her favorite. By the time we placed our orders, the rest of my friends arrived: Margaret, Bertha and Gordon. Let the party begin!

Shokudo is a place where the menu has photographs of the food, so it’s definitely not like eating at someplace like Nobu. But the prices are more reasonable, and my friends ended up ordering a lot of food. Here’s a look at everything that came that night:

First up was the Seafood Dynamite. This didn’t come flaming like it did at Nihon in San Francisco and the taste didn’t compare either. I like the version at Nihon better. Shokudo’s Seafood Dynamite, served with pieces of bread, were OK but without any distinguishing flavors.

The Tofu Salad is probably really healthy for you but it was a bit boring. It was like they just cut up some greens and put the tofu on top, then dressed it up a bit. While it tasted all right, I didn’t exactly love it.

Hamachi Carpacchio ($12.95). This was one of the really beautiful dishes that came out that night. The hamachi (yellowtail fish) was pounded flat like carpacchio, giving it a super tender texture and elegant taste. Again, the arrangement on the plate took advantage of the beautiful coloring of the raw hamachi fish.

Mochi Cheese Gratin ($6.95). This is one of Leslie’s favorite and I had a lot of reservations about it. Basically it’s mochi, which is the steamed Japanese sticky rice, combined with cheese baked into a gratin. In my mind I just thought it would be a big plate of goo. But when it arrived, I took my first bite and was totally transformed into a supporter of this dish. The chef was smart to balance the cheese and mochi with the saltiness of the thinly sliced seaweed on top. The seaweed combined with the mochi and cheese created a wonderful umami flavor. I loved it. (Not recommended for old people who may choke, though!)

Chicken Karaage with Spicy Tartar Sauce ($8.95). I told the gang that I wasn’t into fried foods, but they could order one dish if they wanted to. So of course they went for the chicken karaage, which is the traditional Japanese-style fried chicken. The plate looked really big but I can’t vouch for the taste because there were so many other dishes that I passed on trying it.

Oh, they sneaked in another fried dish. This is a big plate of fried calamari. Pretty standard stuff. Again, didn't try it. I'm not into grease.

We had two orders of sushi rolls. One was the Tempura Roll ($10.95) and the other was the Spicy Tuna Roll ($9.95). Both were done really nicely. The tempura roll didn’t really have a strong greasy flavor that you sometimes get from the fried tempura, and the tuna roll was nice and fresh. (BTW, this is the kind of wacky place that serves sushi pizza.)

We got two kinds of ishiyaki dishes. Ishiyaki is the cast-iron rice dishes that get their influence from Korean cuisine. The dish comes to the table in a hot cast-iron bowl, and the server asks if she can mix it for you. Of course, I’m always in for dinner and a show so we had her mix up the Ishiyaki Unagi ($9.95) that we ordered. The barbeque flavor of the unagi (broiled eel) contrasted nicely with the slightly burned rice. We also got the Ishiyaki Garlic Shrimp ($11.95), which was also good but I liked the unagi better. (For some reason, I didn’t get a shot of the shrimp ishiyaki, I think because I was too busy eating the unagi rice.)

Old-fashioned Yakisoba Noodles ($8.95). This was our final dish and it’s supposed to be yakisoba noodles, which are the pan-fried noodles. But in this picture you can hardly tell they’re noodles because they garnished it with a wee bit too much bonito flakes. Some Japanese restaurants like to garnish with bonito flakes, which are shavings of the dried bonito that’s made with shrimp and other seaweed flavorings and used for broth, because when the thin shavings are placed on top of something hot, the heat makes the shavings do a little dance. You just have to take my word for it (or go to a Japanese restaurant where they serve a dish with bonito garnish and see for yourself).

Shokudo’s diverse menu will certainly make anyone satisfied. And despite the fact that it looks and acts like a T.G.I.Friday’s (the crew comes out to sing if it’s your birthday), the food is surprisingly good. It’s creative, fresh, hearty dishes that’s part comfort food, part crazy creations. Definitely a fun place to spend with friends while reliving your childhood days.

Single guy rating: 3.25 stars (wacky good)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Drunken dessert: Cherries Jubilee
My friends and I were full from all the food at Shokudo, but we still wanted dessert. We decided to go someplace else, but for some reason we all ended up at Gordon’s house and we forced him to make cherries jubilee for us. We were all slightly drunk (or maybe it was mostly me) so this is what happens when you make cherries jubilee while under the influence. I, for one, was just glad I didn’t have to cook in the kitchen while on vacation. Enjoy!

Enter TNFNS Giveaway! -- CLOSED



So like I said in the post below, Season 4 of "The Next Food Network Star" premieres Sunday, June 1. To promote the premiere, the Food Network is giving away a whole bunch of stuff. And lucky for you, my blog is one of the places you can get a chance to win.

What do you get? The prize package includes:
1. Bobby Flay's cookbook, "Grill It." Bobby is the new host of the show this season.
2. Next Food Network Star T-shirt, poster and postcard so you won't forget what show you're watching.
3. A Food Network keychain so you'll know where your keys are when you need to go to the grocery store to buy ingredients for dinner.

How do you win? Just answer the following question in the comments section: Who was the winner of last year's The Next Food Network Star and during the season what did she say was her least favorite food to cook with?

Good luck! This giveaway runs from now till June 2, and only one winner will be selected from this blog. So post your comment/answer now!


UPDATE: A winner has been randomly selected. You can view the comments to see who won.

Disclaimer: This giveaway is organized by The Food Network. I'm not responsible for the mailing of the prizes to the eventually winner. I'm just the messenger. Thank you for playing.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Can They Make The Next Food Network Star?

It seems like I’m barely getting to the end of Top Chef Chicago when more recaps are on the horizon for moi with the fourth season of “The Next Food Network Star.” I’ve been watching this show from the beginning, and some of you know that I submitted an application video for season 3. (No call backs, thank you very much.)

But 10 other people think they’ve got what it takes to star in a Food Network show (and possibly become a bona fide star like Guy Fieri of Season 2 but not Amy Finley from Season 3; I don’t think the network is even rerunning her “The Gourmet Next Door.”).

Probably recognizing that they have to pump up this series given the popularity of “Top Chef,” the Food Network this year is placing Bobby Flay in the position of host and permanent judge ala Tom Colicchio. I think this is a smart move because since Emeril left, Flay has been the de facto face of the Food Network, appearing on multiple shows like “Iron Chef America” and “Throwdown” as well as numerous reruns of past shows programmed throughout the day. Flay has been a frequent judge in “The Next Food Network Star,” and I’ve always found his advice more helpful and constructive than those that came from people like Giada De Laurentiis.

So the show launches exactly one week from today on Sunday, June 1 at 10 p.m. on The Food Network. (Check local listings.) Check back on Monday nights for my recaps. And to get you started, here’s a rundown of the 10 finalists this season:

Aaron, 36, executive catering chef, Thomas Jefferson University Hospital in Philadelphia. Aaron is a big guy, and his theme is “big and bold.” Originally from Camden, N.J., you can expect to see a lot of flavor in Aaron’s cooking. And I bet quite a bit of BBQ. His negative is that he cooks at a hospital and when was the last time you had a tasty meal at a hospital?








Adam, 30, actor and waiter in Philadelphia. Aiiiiiie, an actor in a reality show? What are the odds? OK, at least he’s upfront about it. But still, you can bet a lot of viewers will probably wonder how credible he’ll be front a food show, and people like Adam is why a lot of foodies have been so down on the Food Network shows, emphasizing personality over skills. Adam says he started a BBQ joint with his brother, but that business wasn’t very successful. Ooops, so far his food creds aren’t that hot. At least he’s easy on the eyes and as a performer, you know he’ll make for good TV drama.



Cory, 45, stand-up comic based in New York. Oh my, Season 4 is turning out to be some audition for Star Search. First an actor, now a stand-up comic. Cory has been featured on “The Last Comic Standing” and Craig Ferguson’s talk show. So really, it’s going to be a tough go for viewers who are hoping to see some innovative cooking. But OK, I’m not going to count Cory out because at least she says in her video bio that she has a culinary degree and had a catering company for years before she decided to follow her passion for comedy. So maybe she’s a comic who just happens to cook really well. I guess we won’t know until we start watching. But if she doesn’t make me laugh in the first episode, then I’m not going to trust her cooking.

Jeffrey, 43, food service management. I don’t really know much about Jeffrey other than he looks pretty tall in his photo. I can’t seem to find his video bio on the Food Network site. How odd? I wonder if he was a last-minute addition? Anywho, he’s from White Plains, N.Y. and is in “food service management.” He kind of looks like the cooking professor, doesn’t he?








Jennifer, 32, executive chef at Geppetto’s and Brigg’s Corner Restaurant. She’s a self-taught chef who did a stint with the military and now cooks at an Italian restaurant in Providence, R.I. She’s a mom doing this competition for her daughter, and she supposedly put her life on hold hoping that she’ll win this thing. She gave up a lease on her home and joined the show. So if she doesn’t get the job in New York, she won’t have a home to go back to. I wonder where her daughter is?







Kelsey Nixon, 23, assistant culinary director from Utah. She’s like the David Archuleta of TNFNS. One of the youngest contestant, she also looks too perky for the rest of America. Which is why we want David Cook! But at least Kelsey teaches cooking classes so she looks like she does have some credibility in the kitchen. She actually went to school specifically to become a cooking show star. Is there a degree for that? She’ll probably be the most smooth in front of the camera because she’s had her own college cable cooking show. So she might go far if her perky attitude doesn’t annoy everyone.



Kevin, 39, executive chef of East Village Tavern and Bowl in San Diego. This guy probably has the most cooking credentials, but that doesn’t really say much given the backgrounds of the contestants above. But Kevin owns a couple of restaurants and does a cooking segment on the local radio. His focus will be bringing back romance to the Food Network, so cooking for singles. Hey! Wait a minute! That’s my idea!







Lisa, 32, co-owner and chef of Suze Restaurant of Dallas. This former beauty queen looks like she should be on Project Runway instead of the Food Network. But no, here she is. So you can bet we’ll hear the word “design” associated with Lisa pretty often during this show. And in the previews, she looks like she has one of the most major and messy kitchen accidents in the history of TNFNS.








Nipa, 35, marketing manager. The token Asian in the group, Nipa is from India and Minneapolis, where she has two kids. She looks like she has a lot of personality, and if she can make Indian food look fun to cook, then I’m all there because I rarely cook Indian food or go out to get Indian food. She definitely will have the most unique show not currently seen on the Food Network, but she might get homesick for her kids and we know how that has been the downfall of a many past family contestants.







Shane, 20, actor and owner of LA catering company. Another actor turned chef, I guess. Shane used to star in a show on Nickelodeon, playing the fat kid, but as you can tell he’s not fat anymore. He credits that to good cooking. Now, his video bio says he’s 19, but his bio on the Food Network site says 20, so he’s probably aging faster than most people. Still, he has a culinary degree and plans to show off some French style cooking. I wonder how long before he gets a gig with “Days of Our Lives”?




Here's a preview video for the season:


The Next Food Network Star premieres Sunday, June 1, at 10 p.m. Learn more at the Food Network Web site by clicking on the banner below.

Friday, May 23, 2008

Travel Dish: Tangö Contemporary Café (Honolulu)

Looking for a Dance Partner at Tangö
1288 Ala Moana Blvd., Honolulu
At the Hokua complex near Ward Centre
PH: 808.593.7288
Open weekdays, 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; weekends, 8 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
www.tangocafehawaii.com


HONOLULU
In the San Francisco Bay Area, there’s a new restaurant opening almost every month. But in Honolulu, the restaurant scene is pretty stable, which is why many of the popular restaurants remain popular for several years.

So when my brother mentioned a new restaurant during my recent trip to Honolulu, we went to give it a try. Tangö Contemporary Café had been open for just 10 weeks when I went with my brother and mom. And to give you an idea of how hungry locals are for a new place to try, we couldn’t get a decent reservation on a Saturday night. We were left with the “early bird” reservations of 5:30 p.m.

First an explanation of the name; it’s not a Latin American-influenced restaurant with images of sexy Latins doing the tango. Instead, the name is a combination of the first names of the two partners, Tami (“Tan”) Orozco and Executive Chef Göran (“Gö”) Streng. Both worked together at the Hawaii Prince Hotels, one of the island’s luxury hotels.

The restaurant is located in a new luxury condominium tower called the Hokua near the Ward Centre Shops. It’s right next door to a P.F. Chang’s. (I was a bit surprised to find a P.F. Chang’s in Honolulu given all the decent Chinese restaurants.)

Tangö Café is definitely influenced by Streng’s Scandinavian background. The interior is stark white with faux birch trees and contemporary wall hangings. It feels light and airy, but sometimes in Hawaii “airy” can be too much when the setting sun is blasting through the front windows and washing the place with the strong beams of light.

We happened to be seated at a table right in the path of a setting beam, and we requested to be seated elsewhere. Since we had an early reservation, we were among the first to arrive so other tables haven’t filled yet. But the hostess wasn’t very accommodating. Sure, she acted nice, but you could tell that she’s the type of person that has a list of things to do and doesn’t like to change the list mid-stream. So having to rearrange guests at tables was too much for her brain to handle. While apologetic, she would not offer up an empty table to make our dining experience pleasant.

This non-accommodating service was an indicator of the dinner ahead. Granted, the place has only been open for a little over two months so they still need to work out the service kinks. But at times it was like they weren’t even trying. Our main waiter only took our orders and we never saw him again. Tables next to us got their orders even though they arrived after us. And the general attitude of the people who served us could be described as “spooked.” They looked and acted afraid. (I have to say I did see one waiter on the other side who looked calm, cool and professional. But he was the only one.)

But what about the food? Streng’s menu is a mix of his Scandinavian roots and his years working in Hawaii cooking Asian and Pacific Rim cuisine. It actually was a menu that I favor, which is organic, seasonal dishes with light sauces.

We started with the Portobello Mushroom and Crab Hash Napoleon with Spinach ($8.50). I imagined a stack of thinly sliced mushrooms with crab hash in between. But instead we got Portobello mushrooms with just a bit of crab meat. It didn’t say Napoleon in my mind, and the flavor was just average.

For dinner, you can order ala carte or there’s a dinner special where you can add a soup or salad to your entrée along with a bowl of sorbet for just an extra $6.50. So that’s what I did when I ordered an entrée of Sterling Silver Pork Chop. I opted for the soup of the day (potato and leek), which was tasty and full of flavor but a bit chunky. I don’t know if it was the chef’s idea to give it a rustic feel or if he just got lazy and only pureed the soup half way. If you’re going to puree, I feel the soup should be silky.

My brother ordered the Asian-style Five Spice Braised Beef with pureed potato and chili fried onion rings ($18.50). The meat was perfectly cooked, just fork tender. And while the flavor was nice, it had no hint of five spice. If I closed my eyes, the flavors wouldn’t remind me of Asia. Still, it was filling.

My mom ordered the Mustard Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb with roasted garlic thyme jus and onion mashed potato ($23.00). The lamb was cooked to order and had a nice full flavor. My pork chop was a nice big chop and the mushroom ragout was OK, but it wasn’t anything exceptional. (Also, the pork was a bit rear near the bone, so it was unevenly cooked.)

For desserts, my brother ordered the crepes with fresh fruits and vanilla bean ice cream ($5.50) and I got my bowl of sorbet, which that day was lilikoi flavor, a popular island flavor that’s the same as passion fruit.

The lilikoi sorbet was pleasant and refreshing, a nice palate cleanser. The crepe was cooked nice and thin with tasty fruits, but again, it wasn’t anything special.

When we left, my brother debated about whether he would return again. The food was decent and the price reasonable, but was it worth sitting through such mundane service? It’s hard to say. Maybe the service will improve with experience, and the food might get more refined as the place gains popularity, challenging the chef to do more. But since I don’t live there, I can’t watch the evolution of Tangö Café. With so little turnover in Hawaii, it may still be there when I visit again in the future. But will it be great? That remains a mystery.

Single guy rating: 3 stars (wait till they work out the service kinks)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Thursday, May 22, 2008

Top Chef: Season 4, Episode 11

Order Up: Make Me a Restaurant

Previously: Andrew is all crazy fired up, but that won’t last. The cheftestants make gourmet lunch boxes for a bunch of Chicago police cadets. Dale is named the winner, Lisa talks about “following rules” and Andrew is sent packing on his terms (he says).

The prize rundown. Hey, I don’t recall them ever mentioning that the finale will be in Puerto Rico. Is that new? Have I been missing it all along? Will Ricky Martin be a guest judge? So now we know Puerto Rico is where they’ll bestow the title of … TOP CHEF.

Cue the dance montage: gone, gone, gone, faker, gone, should be gone, think she’s going to win, gone, still here, gone, gone, first woman winner?, long gone, still here (for now), gone, and gone. Whew.

It’s nighttime at the home stand and Chef Tom Colicchio breaks into the house and scares up some cheftestants. He tells them that they’ll be heading to the best Chicago breakfast joint, but not for a plate of flapjacks but to work. It’s a Quickfire Challenge at the ole’ eggs station. Spike rounds up the troop with a “let’s get the egg out of here.” Faker.

Everyone’s already talking about the final four, but if I counted correctly, there are still six cheftestants left. So really, we can’t be talking about the final four for another week. Stop getting ahead of yourselves (Stephanie).

The final six arrives at Lou Mitchell’s Restaurant, which looks like any diner/institution/set for a “When Harry Met Sally” remake. Antonia tries to pimp up the place by calling it the hottest breakfast spot in all of Chicago. We meet Helene, who’s the owner of the restaurant. Tom says she’ll be watching everyone work the egg station and will decide who she would hire, if any cheftestant can’t find a job after screwing up on Top Chef. (BTW, Helene is wearing a black pantsuit, which totally doesn’t say breakfast to me. It says more like “do you want cheese with your pasta?”)

The cheftestants walk back to the kitchen in single formation like a bunch of summer interns. Helene gives them the run down and Spike says she’s pretty hard-core. And even though it wasn’t her actual words, Spike in his fake mind hears the words “it’s hell and you’re all going to die.” Spike, maybe it’s the other voice in your head that you’re hearing?

Antonia is up first, and she gets an order for two eggs over easy. She looks pretty calm and really seems to be doing well. There’s no major mess occurring. Hey, I can’t really see clearly, but does her shirt say “Top biotch”? Wear it proud, girl.

Then in the next segment, they don’t go over each cheftestant but sort of does a montage of Spike, Stephanie, Richard and Dale. They keep jumping back and forth between all of them, and sometimes they look like they know what they’re doing but most times they look like fish out of water. Richard is not getting the diner lingo at all, and then it’s Lisa’s turn and she burns a Styrofoam box.

All this time the Helene woman is just staring, looking kind of mean. Maybe she is hardcore. But in the end she says that everyone did a remarkable job, considering the fact that they all suck. She says Antonia and Dale were the two who seemed to be the most in controlled or smooth, and she names Antonia the winner.

Of course, Antonia doesn’t get immunity but an “advantage” in the elimination challenge. Chef Tom says he can’t be there for the elimination challenge because he has to go to a “charity” event. WTF? Who pays his salary? All the cheftestants don’t believe him because they think he’ll probably do a sneaky comeback because really, Tom at a “charity” event?

Anywho, Chef Tom gives Antonia a post-it with a Chicago address and they’re all supposed to go and find Padma there. Even Chicago girl Stephanie doesn’t recognize the address and they have to do a lame pimp commercial for the GPS system they use to find the place.

When they arrive, it looks like some big warehouse. They all walk in carrying their knives and there’s Padma waiting for them. She was probably glad she didn’t have to wake up early for the Quickfire Challenge. She tells them that “restaurant wars” is back (was it ever gone? I mean, who fell for the fake restaurant wars is now wedding wars a few episodes back?). Even the cheftestants don’t look surprise that this is the restaurant wars episode.

Antonia has the advantage of choosing whom she wants to work with for her team. She immediately picks Richard and Stephanie, the two leading contenders for the title. That leaves Dale, Spike and Lisa as the other restaurant team.

Padma tells the two teams that they have to share a kitchen and make food for 35 diners with a budget of $1,500 for the food and $5,000 for the décor from Pier 1. (Ooooh, get ready for a lot of fake flowers and wicker.)

As the team breaks into groups, it’s apparent again that King Richard is taking the lead with his team. In fact, he’s made the executive chef for the restaurant. OK, so he did open his own restaurant. So really, what’s he doing here on Top Chef? Such a ringer. His team decides to go for a relaxed pub-like concept.

Dale, Lisa and Spike all gravitate immediately to Asian cuisine, and both Dale and Lisa were the alpha dogs wanting to be the executive chef but they tossed a coin and I guess Dale won. Spike says despite the fact that his team members all don’t like each other, it’s time for them to get along and come together and rise up to the occasion and other fakey shit like that.

Commercials. Starbucks has its own brand of chocolate. Get ready for Starbucks branded cheese.

It’s the day of the elimination and the teams are at Whole Foods buying their groceries for their dishes. This seems odd because what restaurant would get their produce from a retailer? In past seasons, they’ve been able to go to restaurant wholesalers. Seems like the producers this year are really skimping on restaurant wars. I mean, they don’t even have Madonna’s brother acting as a design consultant anymore for the two restaurant concepts.

Speaking of concepts, the groups decide to go with the name Warehouse Kitchen for Richard, Stephanie and Antonia, serving up modern American gastro pub food; while Mai Buddha is Dale, Lisa and Spike’s attempt at Asian fusion.

When they get to Pier 1, Spike and Stephanie takes the lead because they’re both working the front of the house, which means they get to dress up and not really sweat in the kitchen. I actually think Antonia would have been better in the front of the house because Stephanie seems like the better cook, but Spike is perfect for the front with all his fakery and cheesy smile. Spike is grabbing all the buddhas that he can find at Pier 1.

The cheftestants get back to the kitchen and start prepping their food and we get a better idea of the menu. Here’s what I could type really fast:

Warehouse Kitchen
First course: Beet salad with goat cheese or clam linguine
Second course: Trout with cauliflower or Lamb served two ways
Third course: Gorgonzola cheesecake or Richard’s banana scallops (gross)

Mai Buddha
First course: Shrimp lahksa or pork potstickers
Second course: Butterscotch miso scallopos or shortribs
Third course: Dale’s halo halo (frozen ice) or mango sticky rice

Antonia dumps on Dale and his “Chinese” restaurant that he’s opening, bringing up the tired old complaint that Dale only cooks Asian. Again Antonia, what’s wrong with cooking Asian all the time? I’m really getting a bit offended by her line of arguments, it’s almost like she thinks Asian cooking is inferior to the kind of cooking she’s doing. And anyway, other that the potstickers, all the other dishes on Mai Buddha’s menu are not Chinese.

On Antonia’s team, they’re making fresh pasta (oh, what a surprise, Antonia making pasta) and she’s worried because they’re doing it from scratch and it has to be perfect. In comes Anthony Bourdain, acting like Chef Tom but without the bald head. He says he’s bringing his warmer disposition as he checks out the two teams.

He first talks to Stephanie’s team and he seems shocked that Stephanie is doing the front of the house. (Told you, it should have been Antonia.) When he talks to Dale’s team, he tells them that he loves lahksa (which I only recently found out is a Malaysian coconut soup) and he takes his lahksa very serious. No pressure.

Tony summarizes for the camera that the two teams are offering two different approaches and that the team of Antonia, Richard and Stephanie is creating modest expectations so it’ll be easier for them to exceed their goals while the team of Dale, Lisa and Spike is taking on the challenge of cooking all types of Asian food in one night. It’s a challenge, because, he says, like Asia is really big.

Tony goes back and tells each team that they get one additional pair of hands, and in comes castoffs Jennifer, Nikki, Mark and Andrew. Dale picks Jennifer for her skills and Antonia picks Nikki because she wants her to make the pasta.

It’s three hours until service, and Dale is messing up his halo halo, which is his shaved ice treat he made a couple of episodes ago. He wanted to create an avocado puree to top it but his avocado mixture turned grayish brown, and doesn’t look very appetizing. Lisa says Dale’s all on edge because he can’t get his halo halo right and his edginess is throwing off the team’s mojo.

Rice sabotage II. Lisa finds that her rice pot was taken off the stove before it was even done cooking and she screams at Dale, telling him to chill out because he’s messing up in the kitchen. Dale says she’s so negative and I’m just really amazed that Lisa didn’t scream sabotage and go on and on like she did in last week’s episode. She says she’s trying to stay calm so as not to pull down the others. I give her props for doing that because I know that must be so hard for her.

Over on the other team, looks like the only major issue is some gritty clams. The waiters arrive, and Stephanie and Spike gives them the rundown. Spike looks pretty sharp in his suit and tie.

Back in the kitchen, Lisa is having problems with her sticky rice. The rice either isn’t the right stickiness or she cooked it wrong. Dale suggests some kind of pastry fix and her rice then looks like sticky goo. It’s really not looking good for Lisa.

They have 30 minutes left and it’s a mad rush before the doors open for service. No reservations needed.

Commercials. Carrie Underwood is playing some Nintendo game on her tour bus. Why is she so popular? Spoiler alert: Congrats to David Cook for winning American Idol. I so wanted him to win, and am looking forward to his second album. (Whoever buys the first album, which is that forced junk the AI producers create? Everyone knows the second album after they’re released from their contracts is usually the better one.)

The restaurants open and Stephanie shows guests to their tables. Spike is already telling a table of guests that his team is going to take this challenge. Maybe it’s his strategy to put some predetermined ideas into the guests’ mind. (BTW, no food blogger invited this year. Guess that New York girl from last season ruined it for all of us! LOL. Just kidding.)

In comes the judges, and along with Padma and Bourdain, there’s Ted Allen and guest judge Jose Andrews, chef and host of the TV show “Made in Spain.” (Never saw it.)

First up is the gastro pub of Warehouse Kitchen (BTW, stupid name). Ted looks at the clam linguine and says he doesn’t think pub food. Tony feels the beet salad was better than what he expected, and Stephanie lets it slide that she made the linguine dish.

Stephanie runs to the back screaming “2 of each for 45” and I’m thinking what kind of diner lingo did she pick up? Translation: she’s ordering two of each course for table 45.

The judges’ are all oooing and aaahing over the presentation of the next course, the trout with cauliflower and the braised lamb loin and shank. Bourdain is loving the lamb dish and Ted likes that they left the skin on the trout.

For the desserts, everyone is a bit nervous about the gorgonzola cheesecake but it seems to go over well. Richard makes his banana scallops with a brown smear in the plating and this is where the judges’ discussion hits a low point and you know Bourdain is behind it. He says he’s not a fan of the brown smear, and Ted says it reminds him of a New York City sidewalk. Hmmm, wonder what is something that’s brown that’s often smeared on the sidewalk. What could it be? Something brown. Something smeared. All I can say is the Mai Buddha team is fucked because the judges are going into their dinner with this brown smeared discussion still fresh on their minds.

When they sit down in Mai Buddha, they already start getting into the ugly purple napkins, with Bourdain commenting that he feels like he’s in Prince’s house. In the kitchen, Lisa is already taking the blame for her botched lahksa, while Dale is getting high blood pressure trying to get the dishes out to the tables. He’s a badass in the kitchen.

Tony tastes the soup and says the lahksa was too smoky. But Padma doesn’t care because she says she just ate some “slammin’ dumplings.” Oh Padma, you’re such the food connoisseur.

For the main course, Spike is trying to get some impressive plates ready for the judges and he’s wondering why the short ribs look so puny on the dish. Lisa and Dale’s are all “just go already.” Actually, I think Dale added in the word, “idiot.” There is just no love at work at Mai Buddha.

Padma loves the short ribs, and everyone likes the presentation. But everyone is scared of the butterscotch scallops. Bourdain labels it Willy Wonka food and one customer says she’s not even sure what she’s eating. (What do you care lady? It’s free.) They show Dale still screaming to get the food out of the kitchen. Really, at this point, that should be a reflection of Spike’s poor front of the house service, but seems like the editors aren’t focusing on that. Instead, they have Lisa interviewing that Dale’s unhappy and that he failed in his job as executive chef.

They serve the halo halo and sticky rice to the judges and I have to say on camera they look beautiful. Jose Andrews likes the halo halo and sounds like he’s going to steal the idea for his restaurant, but everyone dumps on the sticky rice, which Bourdain calls “baby vomit with wood chips.”

Commercials. Thanks Audi for making a creepy commercial for your “Summer of Audi” event with all those sad-looking kids.

Back in stew room, all the cheftestants are patting themselves on the back and drinking beer. Padma comes in and ask for Team Warehouse Kitchen.

BTW, do you wonder if the cheftestants clean up a bit after they sweating all night in the kitchen? I don’t think they do because they look pretty worn out and glistening from dried sweat when they’re at the judges’ table. And Richard is still wearing that odd headband that makes his faux hawk even pointier.

Padma tells them they’re the winning team and Tony gives them some compliments. Guest judge Jose Andrews says he’s naming the winner as the one who showed the most teamwork. How he judged this without being in the kitchen I don’t know, but he gives the prize to Stephanie. She wins a trip to Barcelona. Niiiice.

After congratulations all around for Stephanie, the Mai Buddha team goes in to face the judges.

Padma tells them that even the diners named them the weaker restaurant. Bourdain asked who picked the napkins, and Spike says all of them and you can tell Dale and Lisa wanted to say “not-uh.” Then Bourdain says some odd thing about the décor creating expectations and something about a greasy dumpling. I think he’s just having a flashback of all the bad Chinese restaurants he ate at before the Food Network and Travel Channel funded his eating explorations to Asia.

The judges ask more about the butterscotch scallops (Bourdain says it looked like a melted candy bar, he’s got loads of these quips) and Lisa takes responsibility for the smoky lahksa (which Bourdain says was like putting your face up in front of a campfire). They debate a bit about who came up with the lahksa recipes and then more about who did the short ribs. All the bickering prompts Jose Andrews to scold them, saying their attitude and lack of teamwork is not what restaurants should be all about. Bourdain adds more of a quip, saying “OK, you’re not talking to your parole officer.” In the end, Sneaky Spike is smiling because he’s been able to keep himself above the fray. He adds salt to the wound by saying he thinks there was a communication problem between Dale and Lisa.

After they leave, the judges deliberate a bit more. Chef Andrews calls out Spike for being astute enough to take the front of the house position to stay above the conflict, but Padma gives him props for doing his job properly. Ted Allen says Dale should go just for putting butterscotch on the scallops but also says that most of the group’s problems were linked to dishes made by Lisa.

In the stew room, Lisa is bitching about Dale with Spike the Faker and Dale is in front of them saying “I’m right here and can hear you.” A few bitch words are exchanged. We need some commercials right about now.

Commercials. Wal-Mart is offering a money-back guarantee for their steak. I wonder what they do with all the steak that’s returned? This is why I don’t buy hamburger meat.

Judgment. Tony says a lot of skills were called for in this challenge that the cheftestants haven’t faced so far this season, and everyone had to step it up (and dance?). He says Dale showed a lack of leadership when he knew he had a dysfunctional team, Lisa made smoky lahksa and baby food for dessert, and Spike, well, he was missing in action. Padma tells Dale to pack his knives, and I have to say I’m a bit shock because I really thought Lisa was and should be the one to go. Looks like the judges fell on the thinking that Dale was the leader and he failed to lead, but seems like Lisa didn’t help with her bad cooking.

Dale thanks the judges and leaves without hugging Spike and Lisa. In the stew room, the other cheftestants seem sincerely shocked that Dale is leaving, and in his exit interview Dale talks about how he’ll miss working with people like Richard, Stephanie and Antonia and then he … chokes up. And that makes me choke up at home, too. And I’m not talking teary eyes, he seems really like he’s bawling. Awww, this guy is real. He was just trying his best. Sure, the badass persona was for the show, but inside he really does care about people. I feel bad that he’s crying so much and now I hate Lisa ever more and Spike for sneaking his way into the final 5 when people like Dale should be there.

Next week: The cheftestants are going to be given something precious. Everyone is still taking about making it to the final four (and Puerto Rico), and Lisa is talking about sabotage again. At the judges’ table, they’re all holding hands like the Miss America contest. So that means the end is near.

Top Chef airs Wednesday nights at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Check out videos and multiple blogs at the Top Chef Web site. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV.

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

Travel Dish: Dim Sum Wrap Up (Honolulu)

Varying Tea House Experiences on Oahu

HONOLULU
Today I’m killing two birds with one stone—or should I say, a char siu bau—by combining my visits to two different dim sum restaurants into one review. Legend Seafood Restaurant is where I headed with my mom on the first day I arrived in Honolulu, and Kirin is a place we went near the end of my trip.

Both offers different approaches to dim sum—the Hong Kong lunchtime tradition that has spread throughout the world. I don’t get to do dim sum that often in the Bay Area because I can never get enough people together on a weekend. But when I visit my mom, we’re mostly eating dim sum for lunch. I already wrote about our visit to the luxurious Beijing Restaurant in Waikiki, now here’s the rest.

Legend Seafood Restaurant
100 N. Beretania St., Suite 108
Ground floor of the Chinese Cultural Plaza in Chinatown
PH: 808.532.1868
Open daily for dim sum, major credit cards accepted


Legend is a bustling dim sum restaurant during the day and it’s a favorite among the locals. On the weekends, it can get crowded with people waiting for a table at the door.

The interior is brightly lit with your typical décor for a Chinese restaurant: watercolor paintings on the walls and gold-spray-painted ornaments for good luck. If you’re looking for a dim sum spot where they push the dim sum around in carts, this is where you go.

Legend has a wide variety of dim sum among dim sum places in Honolulu, and it’s the most reasonable, IMHO. My mom and I started off with a steamer of siu mai and her favorite, chicken feet. The siu mai (pork and shrimp dumplings) was plump and juicy, although a bit rough in presentation.

I’m not sure why my mom loves chicken feet, but it must have something to do with the braising liquid, which gives it that dark color and taste. She basically just munches on the bones, sucking out any marrow. I have yet to really acquire a taste for these.

Other standard dim sum we got at Legend include the wu gok (deep-fried taro) and the har gow (shrimp dumplings). Wu gok was one of my favorite dim sum growing up because I loved the soft texture of the taro filling contrasting with the crunchy flakey shell. Legend makes a great flakey exterior, but I have to say the filling was on the bland side. It tasted like they used less taro (which is very expensive these days in the islands) and more potato. I don’t typically eat har gow because of the glutinous skin, but I have to say Legend’s version was—just like the siu mai—plump and satisfying.

Eating dim sum also includes eating several plate courses, such as the duck dish on the left and the cheong fun on the right. It was my first time eating this duck, which my mom called “lo-shui ngap.” I’m not sure what it means, but it’s a duck dish served cold with very subtle fragrance. I wasn’t a big fan but my mom loved it. The cheong fun is a regular crowd favorite made with long flat rice noodles steamed with a filling and served in a soy dressing. This version had shrimp. It was yummy.

There are so many sweet stuffs, but I fell in love with Legend’s version of the coconut tart. Just looking at this you think it’s some kind of egg custard, but it’s a baked tart with coconut flavor. The tart crumbled in my mouth as I ate it and the coconut flavor was just right, not overly coconut but just perfect. Now I want to eat this every time I go out dim sum.

Kirin Restaurant
1450 Ala Moana Blvd., Suite 1215
At the Ala Moana Shopping Center, street level on makai side (facing the beach)
PH: 808.946.1888
Open daily for dim sum
Reservations, major credit cards accepted


Kirin is conveniently located at the popular Ala Moana Shopping Center, which makes it a great place to grab some dim sum while doing some shopping. This tiny spot also seems to appeal to tourists, which may be why it’s not often crowded with the locals, who are probably heading to Royal Garden not too far away in the adjacent Renaissance Hotel.

But you’d be missing out if you bypass Kirin (which also has another location on Beretania Street, but my mom says the dim sum is better at the Ala Moana location). First off, the interior, while somewhat dark, is a bit more soothing and entertaining than places like Legend. It has a rich, tropical feel like you’re in a tea house that was plopped in the middle of an island. Which in a way it is, I guess.

Because it’s small, dim sum is served at Kirin by ordering through your server. Kirin also has a smaller menu than compared to Legend. Still, of what we tried, everything was first-rate.

One of my favorite dim sum dishes is a chicken curry turnover. It’s a puff pastry delight filled with a little bit of chicken curry. When done right, the slightly spicy curry blends nicely with the savory puff pastry shell. Kirin’s version was wonderful and my only complaint was the serving was too small. I wanted more. Next to it is my mom’s favorite dish, called ham sui gok, which is similar to the deep-fried jin dui. The shell is made of glutinous rice and the inside has a pork filling. Kirin’s version looked nicely plumped, but I didn’t try it because I’m not a fan of deep-fried, chewy things.

Here’s a plate of the fried noodles. Kirin’s specialty is Northern style cuisine so the noodles are a bit thicker than regular Cantonese restaurants. I liked how it was cooked up in the wok without a whole lot of greasy texture. Can you believe this is just one order? Since we went with noodles this time around, my mom and I didn’t get as much dim sum.

The other dim sum we did get was this sweet steamed bun on the left and the traditional black bean pork spareribs on the right. The spareribs were just OK. It had flavor but not that much meat on the spareribs. The sweet steamed bun is a version of a baked bun I typically order. But I marked the wrong one in the dim sum card that was given to us in the beginning. This is a custard filled bun that’s steamed. The one I wanted has the same filling but it’s baked, giving it a golden exterior. Still, I loved this because the filling is just so yummy.

Here’s a look inside the bun. The yellow custard filling is surrounded by the soft fluffy bun like clouds. This and the coconut tart at Legend are my new favorite dim sum sweets.

Legend seems to be the everyman’s dim sum joint, while Kirin is the dressed up diners. Kirin is a bit more pricey, but its quality is a tad sharper than Legend. But Legend has more variety. Final analysis: try both when in Hawaii.

Single guy rating: Legend, 3 stars ; Kirin, 3.25 stars

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Travel Snacks: Cupcakes at Cake Couture

HONOLULU
While I was staying with my sister in Hawaii, all she had to do was say the word “cupcake” and I’d drop my beach gear and asked “where?” Then she’d tell me the story of this tiny cupcake store all the way in the Aina Haina neighborhood on the east side of Oahu. She made it sound so good that it was almost legendary like the tales of the menehunes (the tiny elves who allegedly built this island kingdom at nights).

There are no menehunes at work at Cake Couture, just the creative mind and hard work of owner and baker Carmen Emerson-Bass. She opened her shop in February 2007 and makes a variety of hand-made cupcakes using fresh ingredients. She has a rotating menu of flavors (although you can get vanilla and chocolate daily) that include such mesmerizing tastes like Mocha, Black & White, Red Velvet, Peanut Butter, Cookies & Cream and my favorite, Orange Creamsicle.

Her tiny shop is in the center courtyard of the Aina Haina Shopping Center—an older, small strip mall that’s between Kahala and Hawaii Kai. When I visited recently, Emerson-Bass was there and she mentioned that she picked the location because it’s close to her home.

From the outside, the shop looks like any cute bakery. But inside, you feel like you’re at a stylish boutique on Melrose Avenue or Union Square. Her cupcakes are displayed in glass cases with wood slots. The cupcakes sell for about $2.50 to $3.50, depending on the flavor. (Mini cupcakes are available for $1.50 each, but only if you special order them ahead of time and you order at least 2 dozen of one flavor.)

I bought 8 cupcakes to take to a friend’s house, and the one I eventually tried was the Orange Creamsicle, which was a delightful orange cake with buttercream frosting. Everything about it was delicious, from the moistness of the cake to the measured sweetness of the frosting. The only thing that probably would have taken it over the top is if Emerson-Bass injected a squirt of cream in the center like how they do it at Kara’s Cupcakes of San Francisco.

Cake Couture was named the Best Cupcakes in 2008 by Honolulu Magazine, and I would have voted several times if I lived there. Just like the cupcake trend here in California, you have to get there early to get your pick of flavors because they do sell out by the afternoon.

But if you’re ever visiting Honolulu and get a craving for a cupcake that matches the quality you find in the Bay Area or LA, stop by Cake Couture (maybe after a trip to the nearby Hanauma Bay) for an exquisite treat.




Cake Couture, Aina Haina Shopping Center, 820 West Hind Drive #112 (off Kalanianaole Highway), open Mon.–Fri., 10:30 a.m.–6 p.m.; Sat., 10:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Closed Sunday. PH: 808.373.9750. www.cakecouture.com

Monday, May 19, 2008

Travel Dish: Nobu (Honolulu)

Refined Japanese Cuisine a Bit Rough Around the Edges
2233 Helumoa Road, Honolulu
Waikiki (inside the Waikiki Parc Hotel)
PH: 808.237.6999
Lunch: Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; dinner daily, 5:30 to 10 p.m. (till 11 p.m. Thu.–Sat.)
Major credit cards, reservations accepted
Hotel parking validation good for 4 hours
Web site

HONOLULU

When living in Manhattan, the closest I got to eating at the infamous Nobu restaurant was actually dining at Nobu Next Door, a small casual spot that opened a few years after the real Nobu got popular. The dinner was excellent, although I always wondered what the real Nobu was like?

So when I heard that Nobu Matsuhisa’s empire has grown to an outpost in Waikiki, I made a mental note to visit there on my recent vacation. Nobu Waikiki has been opened for exactly one year, and its beautiful setting has been the buzz for many locals. Its Manhattan prices have also garnered some buzz, making a dining experience at Nobu a special occasion.

I decided to take my mom to Nobu for a pre-Mother’s Day lunch. Even though I made reservations, more than three-quarters of the room was empty so I probably didn’t need to. Keep in mind this was a weekday so not too many locals would drive all the way into Waikiki and deal with traffic just for lunch, even at Nobu. (Although there were a few business lunches occurring, probably on an expense account.)

There’s a debate among my family about what used to be in the Nobu spot, which is on the ground floor of the boutique Waikiki Parc Hotel. My mom says it used to be a continental buffet restaurant but my brother insists it was another run-of-the-mill Japanese restaurant that went out of business. Doesn’t matter, because Nobu has definitely staked its claim as the premiere restaurant for that section of Waikiki (which says a lot since it’s right across the street from the always elegant Halekulani Hotel that boasts two fine-dining restaurants).

Nobu has a large sushi bar with about three sushi chefs working that day for lunch. Its warm-wood paneled walls and metal artworks amidst the chandeliers created a light but refined environment. The service was island friendly but with an eye toward the formality of changing dishware as the courses progress through your time there.

For lunch, Nobu offers many of its regular dinner menu, but also the typical lunch-type fare such as donburi (rice bowls) and udon noodle soup. It also offers a special bento box for $45, providing little tastes of some of Nobu’s famous bites.

My mom and I decided to go family style and shared some dishes. We started with the Yellowtail Sashimi with Jalapeno ($18), which reflects Matsuhisa’s Peruvian influences. The dish looked beautiful when it arrived and tasted fresh and light, with just the slightest of heat from the thinly sliced jalapeno. I actually had this dish all to myself because my mom doesn’t eat raw fish, but I couldn’t pass up the opportunity of eating raw fish at Nobu.

Since I felt bad that I ate a whole plate of sashimi for myself, I ordered my mom the California roll ($8), which is the only sushi she’ll eat. It looked well-prepared and tasted fresh, but didn’t have anything special added to it. But what can you expect from a California roll?

Next was the Big Island Heart of Palms Salad ($17). It was another beautiful dish with the thinly shaved heart of palms looking like a bouquet of ribbons on our plate. While the heart of palms were tasty, the dressing was a bit tart. It tasted like a vinaigrette of yuzu and wasabi. My mom didn’t like the tartness and we couldn’t eat the whole thing.

For our entrees we got the King Crab Tempura with Amazu Ponzu Sauce ($29) and an order of the Tasmanian Ocean Trout with Crispy Spinach and Yuzu Soy ($23). My mom is a meat eater and I would have tried the Washu Beef, but Nobu charges a premium for a 6 ounce cut of either a locally raised Washu (aka Kobe) beef or a more expensive Tokyo import. After I heard the prices (somewhere over $40), I settled for the seafood.

The crab tempura was a large plate of crab meat surrounded by fluffy tempura batter. The meat had all been removed from the shell (I once ate at a ramen place where they deep-fried king crab legs with the shell) and there was a lot of it. But the tempura batter was on the soggy side, not the crisp, flakey texture that makes it worth eating a deep-fried dish. The ponzu sauce (a mixture of yuzu and soy) was again on the tart side, making my mom conclude that Nobu makes everything sour.

The ocean trout was an interesting piece of fish. It looked almost like salmon or orange roughy and was nicely prepared, with a crispy pan-fried skin that was yummy to eat. The crispy pieces of spinach were also a nice compliment to the dish, but, yes, the yuzu soy sauce leaned on the tart side.

In all the dishes, the presentation was beautiful but the execution of the dishes seemed to lack a sophisticated touch. I’m not expecting to find Nobu Matsuhisa in the kitchen cooking with all his many properties to oversee, but I would think he would have a highly trained executive chef manning his Waikiki pearl of a location. But from what I could see in the lack of balance in the sauces, it felt like an average fine-dining restaurant chef at the helm instead of one worthy of the Nobu name. (Keep in mind past Nobu chefs have included people like Masuharu Morimoto of Iron Chef and Iron Chef America fame.)

While it was a nice splurge of a lunch, it was far from tantalizing or impressive. It's like Matsuhisa left his written recipes and the chefs are following it to a tee without tasting them. That's too bad because I had hoped the arrival of Nobu would raise the culinary standards in Honolulu. Instead it looks like Nobu has blended in with all the rest.

Single guy rating: 3.75 stars (A bit lacking for the premium price)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Mini Tastes Around Rockridge

I'm taking a break from my Honolulu vacation posts to blog about something closer to home. We've been having a heat wave in the Bay Area, but it finally started to cool down this weekend, making it nice to be out and about.

In my neighborhood of Rockridge, the merchants' association put on its first Taste of Rockridge. It's supposed to be the spring answer to the popular Out and About Rockridge event in the late summer/fall. While Out and About is like a huge block party, Taste of Rockridge is more a sampling of food stuff at participating stores and restaurants.

The neighborhood looked really festive with all the balloons out on the streets, but I have to say that there really didn't seem to be much happening as far as food tastings. If restaurants were providing special samples or discounts, it was hard to tell from the street. Seemed like most of the food happenings centered around Market Hall and the various food stores under that roof.

Well, it was fun just milling around Market Hall and meeting some of the vendors who were out for Taste of Rockridge. Hopefully next year participating restaurants and stores will have posted signs of what they're offering.

They were offering raw oyster tastings outside Hapuku Fish Shop. You could see that the guy could barely keep up with shucking the oysters before people would grab a taste. I tried a small oyster called "kushi," which I never heard of. It's from Canada and was pretty good. I liked the sweet flavor and the plump body despite it being pretty small like a kumamoto.


This is the spread outside the Market Hall Produce shop. Doesn't that fruit salad totally say summer?

Here's Rachel of Blue Chair Fruit Co. Rachel was sampling her jam and marmalade, and was nice enough to tell me the difference between the two. (I can't really explain it thoroughly, it's more a show and tell. You can ask Rachel yourself because she'll be starting a booth at the Temescal Farmers Market every Sunday at the Claremont DMV in Oakland.) I was really impressed at all the different places she's been able to sell her jam and marmalade to and she's only been in business for about a year and a half.

I thought it was really interesting that Rachel calls her company Blue Chair. She says she wanted that iconic image of the blue chair in a family kitchen. You know, like how you see at those country homes. It really gives her jam a unique name instead of just "Rachel's Jams." Oh, I tried the marmalade and it was really nice, not overly sweet and very authentic to the fruit (which was some kind of orange).

Inside the Pasta Shop at Market Hall, they had a table with tasting of this olive oil from California. It had an interesting, rich taste that was slightly green. It was pretty good for a California olive oil (you know I mostly buy Italian and French).

Here's another discovery that I saw at Taste of Rockridge. This is a sparkling juice called Vignette and that's the founder, Pat Galvin, serving up his juice. The flavors are based on wine grape varietals, but the drink is non-alcoholic. Pat started his company in Sonoma more than a year ago and his drink is sold at the Pasta Shop and Whole Foods.

Vignette's current offerings include a Chardonnay, Rose and Pinot Noir. The juice was fantastic, with a subtle wine grape taste without the alcohol. The fizz adds a nice touch to it, almost like sparkling wine. I also loved the bottling and packaging, which really gives it that summer picnic in Napa (or Sonoma) feel. In fact, I think this juice would make a great summer picnic drink to serve to friends because they'll really feel like you're a fancy host. It is a bit on the premium price side ($2.50 per bottle), so reserve it for times when you want to show off that you have taste. ;-)

Finally, here's a look at the cheese table, also at the Pasta Shop. This is a truffle goat cheese and it tastes as rich as it sounds. Small little specks of truffle is mixed in with this goat cheese, made in the Bay Area, and it was excellent. Another perfect picnic item. Hmm, I think it's time to pack up a basket and head out to enjoy the beautiful weather and good food.

Saturday, May 17, 2008

Travel Market: Kapiolani Farmers' Market

HONOLULU
If you're planning a trip to Honolulu, you have to definitely set aside Saturday morning for a visit to the Saturday's Farmers Market at the Kapiolani Community College on the edge of Diamond Head. This was the first time I visited this farmers' market, and it really is probably the biggest on Oahu.

You have to get there early because it's open from 7:30 to 11:30 a.m., and everyone has to drive there since there's no mass transit nearby. That means a big mess in the adjacent parking lot. But it's worth the hassles to check out all the produce stands and the food stations. You see some typical farmers market things but also some unique items to Hawaii.

The Saturday's Farmers Market is sponsored by the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation and the culinary program at Kapiolani Community College. (Some historic background, Kapiolani Community College used to be closer to town on Kapiolani Boulevard, thus the name. Then they opened a campus near Diamond Head. The main town campus eventually closed and now it's only at the Diamond Head location, and its culinary program has produced some of the most noteworthy chefs in the state.)

Here's a sample of some of the things at the market:

Baked goods from Bale Bakery. This is a Vietnamese bakery famous for its bahn minh sandwiches. So their French rolls are pretty popular. But as you can see, they've now branched out to a lot of other goodies.

Of course you're going to have to find taro at the Hawaii market. Taro is a starch that's made into poi when boiled and pounded. There are not too many people growing taro now so it costs a premium at stores. But everybody needs their poi!

Here's an unusual item I saw at the market. This one hippie-like woman was selling this thing called Noni. She says it's an ancient Hawaiian herbal treatment. The Noni is placed in a jar and allowed to ferment, and then juice comes out. The juice is taken to heal illnesses and improve digestion. Another note: It has a really funky smell. It really smelled like cheese, which was odd. And when you touch it, it's really soft like cheese. Kind of weird.

This is one of the more tropical flowers found at the market. This one is called Olena. I thought it was so pretty in the light.

People like to make salad dressings in Hawaii. So here's a stand selling a creamy herb dressing and a soy-based dressing. They were pretty good.

I've never seen this before: baby eggplant. Who knew they started off orange-red?

Preparing a pizza for sale. Look at those cheese being placed on top. Yum.

We're not getting much tomatoes in the Bay Area, but in the hot weather of Hawaii, they can get it any time of the year.

Of course, papayas are everywhere and they're my favorite Hawaiian fruit, after the mango. I love papayas. They're healthy for you and taste so great by itself. The ones above are the ruby red ones, sometimes called strawberry papaya for its red-orange flesh.

The jams at the market were all tropical, like this one from Kahuku (a lot of things are from Kahuku, a farming town near the North Shore of Oahu) and is made with Lilikoi, a popular Hawaiian fruit. I think it's the Hawaiian name for passion fruit. This particular jar was a bit too sweet, but I loved the mango jam and bought a jar of that to bring home!

Kona coffee is a major seller here, but fyi, Kona coffee beans are expensive! They were selling a bag for $17. Too bad I don't drink coffee.

Here's another thing you won't find at Bay Area farmers' market. This is Ogo, a seaweed grown in Kahuku (again). It's popular to mix in when making poke, the Hawaiian dish of raw tuna and seaweed. Can you imagine packing this up and bringing it back to your hotel! LOL.

Saturday's Farmers Market at Kapiolani Community College, Parking Lot C, 4303 Diamond Head Road near Waikiki. Every Saturday from 7:30 to 11:30 a.m.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Travel Dish: Panda Cuisine (Honolulu)

Straightforward Delivery of Family Dinners
641 Keeaumoku St., Honolulu
Near Ala Moana Center
PH: 808.947.1688
Dim sum for lunch daily from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner from 5 to 10 p.m.
Major credit cards accepted

HONOLULU
In my recent tour of Chinese food in Hawaii, I found that there weren’t that many new Chinese restaurants creating a lot of buzz. Most of the popular restaurants serving dim sum or dinner were the same ones that were around in my last visit two years ago.

One of the standbys is Panda Cuisine, which is conveniently located near Ala Moana Center (just a couple of blocks away from the new Nordstrom). The tiny restaurant was once very popular for dim sum, and while it’s still delivers consistent dim sum, I visited for dinner because of its convenient location.

I went for dinner with my mom and older brother, who actually visits the restaurant often with his friends to chow down on whole crabs. We didn’t get any crab (hello, I’m from San Francisco where the crab comes from) but ordered a few dishes to eat family style.

We started with the Crab Meat and Fish Maw Soup. I was curious what fish maw was, and when it came, it looked like the inner glutinous guts. I now remember drinking this as a child and not being very excited about it. For this particular version from Panda, it also failed to excite me. One, because the fish maw is an odd texture to get used to (it’s like eating gelatin), and second, there was hardly any crab meat.

For our entrées, first came the Lamb with Leeks, which my brother recommended. It was a hearty dish, although I noticed they used more the green parts of the leeks instead of the white part. The lamb had a spongy consistency and it lacked any strong flavor that I often associate with lamb. My brother says the restaurant cooked away the lamb flavor because most people in Hawaii don’t like the wild, sometimes gamey flavor. I thought that was the distinctiveness of lamb, so I found it odd that Panda decided to wash out the flavor.

Chinese food is heavy on the meats and seafood, so whenever I suggest to my mom that she orders something with vegetables, she typically goes for a tofu dish, like tofu is a green. So she ordered the traditional Eight Treasures Tofu Pot, which is tofu braised in a claypot with a variety of ingredients (typically eight). The Panda version was tasty and fresh, but was just OK.

Next was Chilean Sea Bass with Vegetables. This is typically how my mom likes fish prepared, basically pan fried quickly with vegetables. But I feel the dish shows a trend in Panda’s cooking style, which is heavy on the cornstarch. It’s a trick of Chinese cooking to use a bit of cornstarch to create some gravy and give the food a nice glaze. But when you add too much cornstarch, it just looks like a sticky mess. The fish itself also didn’t taste fresh.

Our final dish was Chinese Fried Chicken, aka Ja Ji Gai. I had to see this dish so often when growing up because my mom thought we would eat it because it was fried. Of course, all my siblings at it but I would just eat the chicken breast pieces without the skin because even then I had an aversion to fried foods. But when done right, the skin would be so crispy and thin, you would barely notice it. And it’s always served with a bunch of fried shrimp chips, which kids love.

Panda’s version actually was very nice, and it was a pretty large plate of chicken despite the photo showing mostly shrimp chips. It’s often served with a small dish of salt and pepper to sprinkle on top.

Panda promotes itself as a fine dining Chinese restaurant, and it definitely has a formal feel with its cloth-covered tables. But the food doesn’t live up to that designation and instead tastes more like family home-style cooking. While it’s an old reliable spot that’s centrally located, Panda Cuisine may be losing some of its former glory.

Single guy rating: 2.5 stars (Old reliable)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Thursday, May 15, 2008

Top Chef: Season 4, Episode 10

To Protect and To Serve (Box Lunches)

Previously: Dale goes 10 rounds with a locker, restaurant wars become wedding wars, Andrew still has a culinary boner, and Spike calls Dale “a little bitch.” But in the end, it’s arrivederci to Nikki for not being Italian enough.

The Food & Wine prizes are within grasp for one of our cheftestants, along with the title of … TOP CHEF.

Sunrise over the Chicago skyline and some quick shots of State Street and the L train. Spike wakes up shirtless, again, and someone is wearing a really bright orange towel, and Richard really does wears pink crocs. Spike is calling Dale a little bitch again. Dale feels the tension but doesn’t care. Andrew says everyone feels beat down, but he’s still jittery as usual and says he woke up this morning with fire. And his definition of fire in his belly means he’s either going to stab someone or make good food. Let’s hope for the rest of the other cheftestants that it’s the latter and not a special episode of CSI.

Quickfire challenge. The cheftestants walk in to find Sam Talbot of Season 2 (what, now we’re recycling the cheftestants? When is Marcel going to be a guest judge?) I think Antonia has a little crush on tall, dark and handsome Sam, who’s really looking street with his T-shirt, jacket and chains.

Padma tells the cheftestants that their challenge is modernize some classic salads like a Cobb, Caesar or Waldorf (all favorites of mine). Sam says they should bring sexy back to salads, which everyone agrees is a neglected course but a difficult one to bring creativity to.

Spike says he’s never won a quickfire so he wants to step up his game, so he’s making something with meat so someone will eat it and want to have sex afterwards. Hmmm, seems like our cheftestants have been locked in that Chicago flat a wee bit too long.

Lisa says 45 minutes is a long time to make salad. Then she throws in that some people don’t deserve to be here because their personality “suck ass.” Lisa, do you own a mirror?

As the cheftestants get working on their salads, Stephanie is going for fall flavors and Richard is making ceviche-type salads with fruits and vegetables. Huh? Ceviche is served somewhat raw, so how unusual is it to serve vegetables and fruits raw? This doesn’t look good for Richard. BTW, have you noticed the last few episodes Richard hasn’t busted out any fancy molecular gastronomy equipment?

Stephanie is being Shaky Stephanie again so she misses up something on her plate. Then time is called and she realizes that she hasn’t placed the other artichoke element on her “duet” salad. I guess it’s a solo salad now. (And it looks pretty sad with just a plop of food on that long, white salad plate.)

Sam and Padma do the taste-testing, and Sam tells Andrew that his Thai fruit salad has good flavor, and Andrew gets excited by saying “awesome” and making a super Power Ranger cross signal. (Moms, you know what I’m talking about.)

Lisa made a grilled squid and lobster tail salad with a yuzu vinaigrette, but Sam says he doesn’t taste any spices and Padma says all she tastes are the banana and it doesn’t look like she likes banana.

Antonia made a poached egg salad with wild mushrooms and Sam says it has great flavors. Antonia basically gushes like a school girl after Sam leaves.

So did anyone else notice that none of the cheftestants really “revamped” a traditional salad like Caesar, Waldorf or Cobb? They just basically made a fancy restaurant salad.

For his least favorites, Sam says Richard’s ceviche-style salad didn’t have enough acidic punch. He felt Stephanie’s pear vinaigrette salad with artichoke wasn’t really there, especially since she had 45 minutes to assemble it. And he didn’t like the banana taste in Lisa’s squid salad. Lisa looks like she’s ready to take Sam out back and kick his pretty ass.

For his favorite, Sam says he liked Spike’s well-balanced beef salad (they cut a shot to Lisa and she still looks mad and still wanting to kick Sam’s pretty ass), Antonia’s salad because who doesn’t like to break into a poached egg (yum!) and Dale’s unique salad with nori puree.

Sam names Spike the winner, his first win and Spike is all like “where’s Ashton Kuscher because am I on Punk’d?”

Elimination challenge. Sam and Padma come in carry two trays of food, and they look pretty gross. It’s a bunch of fast-food type things like hamburgers, fries, hot dogs, etc. And the producers have purposely made them look really dumpy and mushy, and they’re all a mess on the trays.

Padma reminds the cheftestants that the biggest problem in the United States is obesity (especially childhood obesity). So in comes Sam who’s also a diabetic, and he talks about how it’s a challenge finding low-fat, low-carb foods that are healthy and tasty.

Padma notes that this pile of mess is also the typical lunch for cadets at the Chicago police academy (funny, I didn’t see any doughnuts). Their challenge is to make something healthy for the cadets, and they have to cook with ingredients from the following groups: whole grains, lean proteins, fruits and vegetables.

Spike gets 10 extra minutes to shop because he won the challenge, AND whatever he picks can’t be used by the rest. Spike says he doesn’t care what the other thinks, he’s going to buy things that’ll screw everyone. Andrew says he doesn’t care because his background is in nutrition and he can make any kind of healthy food. For some reason he’s talking like a cartoon.

Commercials. Memo to Verizon Wireless: It’s not Christmas yet so stop disguising your carol as a Red Hot Deal Day.

They go shopping at Whole Foods. What is that odd song they’re playing? Spike is running all around and everyone else is standing by the door waiting and looking pissed. Spike the Faker really rubs it in and waves to the other cheftestants. I don’t think he’s heard of karma because it’s going to bite, I predict.

So to screw everyone else, Spike chooses as his main ingredients chicken (because he thinks everyone else will think that’s the healthy protein), tomatoes, bread and lettuce (not because he has any plans but he thinks who can make a box lunch without bread, lettuce and tomato?).

When the other cheftestants finally start shopping, Antonia looks for some lean meat and Stephanie has to change her original idea for chicken with smoked tomatoes thanks to Spike the Faker. Lisa also has to regroup from her soup and sandwich idea and now is going for a stir-fry, grabbing some shrimp. She thinks shrimp is good for you, but it is high in cholesterol last I checked.

Richard is thinking of a burrito, but you know he’s going to substitute the traditional ingredients, so he’s looking at bok choy and tuna.

Andrew is actually pretty calm and not his jittery self. He feels confident of his plan for some faux sushi. He even rubs it under the nose of Stephanie, literally holding up his tuna to Stephanie and asking “What’s that smell? It’s the smell of success.” Stephanie scrunches her nose like “you know, it’s more like the smell of day-old fish to me.”

The cheftestants are back in the kitchen and they start cooking. They have two hours and then they have to pack it all up to take to the Police Academy.

So we get a better idea of what everyone’s making. Antonia is making curry beef with jasmine brown rice, Andrew is making faux sushi with parsnip and pine nuts grounded up to be the “rice” and Dale is doing lettuce cups with Vietnamese-style herbs and bison meat. Antonia made a really odd comment that Dale is cooking Asian food again and he’ll go down for it. I don’t get it, just because someone cooks a particular style of food all the way through, does that mean he or she is boring? And Antonia, did you watch last year’s winner (Hung who cooked Vietnamese)? I don’t get her logic.

Chef Tom Colicchio makes his appearance and goes around talking to everyone. When he talks to Lisa about her spicy stir-fry, she hands him her homemade chili to try and he looks like he’s about to burst. Someone hand the poor guy a cup of milk. He says it’s a good thing she’s not serving firemen because this would be a seven-alarm fire.

Outside the kitchen, Chef Tom says all the cheftestants seem to be working really hard at trying to make something healthy and he thinks there’ll be some great dishes. Wow, way to raise the expectations Judge Tom.

Lisa checks on her rice and finds that the heat has been cranked up to high when it should have been simmering all the while. So that means her rice has burnt outside but is hardly cooked inside. Because it takes a long time to cook brown rice and there’s only 10 minutes left, she can’t make a new batch. She is angry. She starts yelling who turned up the heat, and she thinks someone sabotaged her. Everyone else says throwing the sabotage accusation around is just a way for her to cover up her own mistakes. Anywho, Lisa is going to use the rice and hopes that pouring some liquid on it will help cook it more when reheated in the microwave. I don’t think so.

There’s just 10 minutes left and everyone who had been working so smoothly the last hour and a half all of a sudden starts crashing things, dropping utensils and basically swearing a lot to make up for all the quiet earlier.

Commercials. Those Apple-PC commercials are pretty funny, but this new one where the PC guy sings country is plain stupid. I guess that’s the point.

The cheftestants arrive at the Police Academy. The cops have this funny sign welcoming the Top Chef cheftestants but the disclaimer on the sign says “unauthorized persons will be subject to arrest.” Boy, they don’t fool around in Chicago.

In cafeteria, the cheftestants make labels with instructions on how to reheat their box lunches. The recruits come in wearing their uniforms looking like they’re ready to arrest somebody. BTW, these cadets look pretty fine and in shape. I don’t think any of them are necessarily eating unhealthy. The cadets go to each cheftestants checking out the offerings. Richard keeps asking everyone if they like burritos. And BTW, Australian Mark may be gone but he apparently left his headband to Richard because Richard is wearing it and his faux hawk looks even more pointed with this.

Spike the Faker does this trick to get people to choose his box lunch of chicken salad. So he puts out two boxes on the table to make it look like he’s running out. Maybe I should call him Sneaky Spike instead.

The judges go around picking up box lunches from all the cheftestants. Here’s their initial reactions:

Stephanie’s soup and fruits. Ted Allen thought it was pretty hearty and well seasoned.

Spike’s open faced chicken salad. Padma thinks it’s pedestrian and Ted thnks Spike could have done more with the tomatoes and lettuce rather than just throw it into the box.

Dale’s lettuce wraps. Everyone seems to like it but Ted says it could use some heat like red chili.

Antonia’s beef curry with fresh berries on the side. Padma likes the flavor and the meat is tender.

Andrew’s faux sushi. Padma thinks the parsnip “rice” is kind of strange and they realize he didn’t use a whole grain.

Richard’s grilled tuna burrito. Ted says it tastes better than it looks.

Lisa’s shrimp stir-fry. Padma says the rice is undercooked, of course, like Lisa could hide that.

All the cadets left, looking pretty satisfied, and the four judges remain to talk but they really don’t say much other than we find out that Sam comes from a family of police officers. Can you see Sam in a uniform? Niiiiice.

Commercials. Did you go for the free chicken biscuit today at McDonald’s? Oh, you have a buy a large soft drink first. Fake out!

In the stew room, the cheftestants ask Lisa what happened to her rice, and she talks about it being burned (and sabotaged). Andrew’s all like, you didn’t have to use rice. And Lisa’s all, what, didn’t you know we had to use a grain? Andrew’s like, oh oh.

Padma comes in for Dale and Stephanie. At the judges’ table, she tells the two that they’re the favorites. Tom says the bison in Dale’s wrap was genius because it tasted like beef but it’s healthy. (I like bison too, or buffalo, basically all the “b” meats.)

For Stephanie, Ted Allen tells her that several people had seasoning problems in this season, but Stephanie’s soup is the best seasoned dish so far this season. Hmm, I love well-seasoned soup. Now I want to try.

Sam names Dale the winner, and he gets a magnum of Rutherford Hill 2002 Merlot and two tickets to visit the winery in Napa. It’s been awhile since I’ve been in Napa, but I don’t think the Rutherford winery tour is all that.

The judges ask for Spike, Lisa and Andrew.

Padma asks Andrew if he thinks his dish was substantial enough. He says he studied nutrition and everything in the dish makes you stronger and energetic. He says he wants to leave them wanting more, and Chef Tom says three hours later when they want more, they’ll probably be grabbing a candy bar. Andrew says he wanted to make something healthy and unique, but Chef Tom is “what about something tasty?” Zoing.

Padma asks Spike why he made chicken salad, and he says he didn’t want to scare the cops with something weird so thought this would be a nice transition to something healthy. Sam says he didn’t really use the tomato, lettuce and bread in a creative way. Tom didn’t like the combination of olives and grapes, but Spike says he was going for sweet and savory. He looked like he was surprised Tom didn’t appreciate the whole sweet-savory combo, and Tom is not when it’s olives and grapes. Spike looks a bit exasperated dueling with Chef Tom about flavor for the common man.

For Lisa, they tell her her stir-fry wasn’t cooked properly. She says someone fucked up her rice. Ted Allen says if she’s sure somebody sabotaged her and she says she never touched her burner after turning it down to low.

Padma asks if they have anything else to add, and Lisa speaks up saying that this is a competition with rules and one person didn’t follow the rules. Tom says they’re already aware of that, and Andrew looks like he was stabbed in the back. In fact, remember how he says he was either going to make good food or stab someone? Well, since he’s in the bottom, you can conclude he didn’t make great food. So I think he’s going to stab Lisa right about now.

When they go back to the stew room, Padma tells the other judges that Lisa had a lot to say. In the stew room, Andrew is staring at Lisa and Antonia tries to get between it by telling Andrew that he’s freaking her out. Antonia, stay out of people’s business, ‘kay. Why get into it when it’s Andrew and Lisa’s beef. Andrew yells at Lisa for not having honor in the game and basically ratting him out.

For the judges, Tom says that even if Lisa was sabotaged, she still should have kept an eye out to make sure the rice didn’t overcook. Sam didn’t like how Spike didn’t use his ingredients the best he could. While Padma reminds everyone that Andrew didn’t use a whole grain. Plus Ted Allen thought Andrew was a bit arrogant talking about nutrition back to the judges.

Commercials. In the Quiznos commercial, a lady eats $5. That’s nothing weird compared to what we see on TV these days, but what’s odd is Quizno felt the need to put this disclaimer in tiny print on the bottom: “Dramatization. Do not try.” WTF? Who would?

Judgment. Chef Tom says this was not an easy challenge; there were so many things to keep in mind. The cheftestants also had to deal with the food police. (Is he talking about the cadets or the judges?) Padma sends Andrew packing with his knives (I bet one is missing because it’s in his back) and Andrew is the first to ask if he can shake hands with the judges. They all seem pretty sad to see Andrew leave on a technicality, and I’m going to miss him too because he was pretty odd and funny compared to the petty, shaky, angry, fakey people who are left.

Andrew says he won’t miss any of the other cheftestants, with the exception of his buddy Spike and they hug long and hard. Andrew says Spike will be his boy forever. I wish I had a boy forever. Andrew also says that he’ll always be the one going against the grain. Well said jittery boy. Well said.

Next: They face a humiliating challenge, and Restaurant Wars is going to take place this season! Lisa is having problems with rice again.

Top Chef airs Wednesday nights at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Check out videos and multiple blogs at the Top Chef Web site. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV.

Wednesday, May 14, 2008

Mini Travel Dish: Yummy Korean BBQ (Honolulu)

Korean Fast Food Done Right

HONOLULU
Whenever I get Korean food at a mall's food court in San Francisco, I always think fondly of my favorite spot for Korean fast food in Honolulu, and that's Yummy Korean BBQ. No fast-food Korean counter in the San Francisco Bay Area can rival the delicious meats and large variety of vegetable sides available for your choosing at Yummy.

So when I was back home for a vacation, I had to make a stop at Yummy's for a plate of BBQ chicken and some excellent panchan (the vegetable sides offered at Korean restaurants). In San Francisco, the Korean joint at the San Francisco Centre only offers two sides with your order, and it's typically just steamed broccoli and clear noodles. But at Yummy, you get a choice of four panchan.

My favorite is the sweet and sour cucumber. It's so crunchy and sweet, I could eat a whole jar of it. Yummy was started in Hawaii but now as locations throughout the state and in Japan. I typically go to the Yummy in the food court of Ala Moana Center because I'll go swimming in the morning at Ala Moana Beach and then walk over to the food court at the center for some Yummy.

The downside to Yummy is that it is a bit expensive. Their large plates are now close to $9. But I think they've realized that can be a big chunk of change for some people so they started offering a mini plate for about $6. (But with the mini plate you only get a choice of two panchans. I'd buy the big plate just for the choice of four panchans.)

Another thing is that the service can be a bit brusque. It was like that when I lived in Hawaii and it didn't seem that much different when I visited during this trip. Still, if you know the system and place your order efficiently and know which panchans you want, then you'll move through the line swiftly.

Since I've been speaking so much about the panchans, here are just a few of the yummy selections:





And here's my actual order of chicken barbeque. The chicken was so tender and slightly sweet, which I like (some mainlanders might not like that). It was juicy and so satisfying. The four panchans I got was, of course, the cucumber, and then bean sprouts, kim chee and macaroni salad. So Hawaii yeah?

Yummy Korean BBQ, various locations throughout Hawaii. Web site.

Tuesday, May 13, 2008

Heading Home, Full and Heavy

Today I'm packing up and leaving Honolulu. I knew this week would go by fast, and it did. While I feel like I didn't get to do half the things I wanted to do, I feel like I have so many places and food things to blog about. So even though I'll be back in my own bed tonight, you'll still be seeing my Hawaii posts probably for the next two weeks! It'll be like an encore of the greatest hits, or like they say in Hawaii, hana ho!

Monday, May 12, 2008

Travel Dish: Downtown@HiSAM (Honolulu)

Where Food is More Popular Than Art
250 S. Hotel St., Honolulu
Downtown
PH: 808.536.5900
Open Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Major credit cards, reservations accepted
Web site


HONOLULU
There are several options for Honolulu’s business types looking for lunch in the downtown/financial district. One of the newest locations is a contemporary café serving up organic, clean flavors on the ground floor of the new Hawaii State Art Museum (HiSAM).

Known simply as Downtown, it’s from the same people behind a restaurant called Town in the Kaimuki neighborhood on the eastern side of Oahu. Downtown, which has the simple feel of a cafeteria, has a sit down area and a takeout counter called Downtown ASAP. When I was there for lunch, there was a constant line at the takeout counter for its sandwiches and salads.

I ate at the sit down area, decorated with amazing black and white photos, with my childhood friend Judy, who works at a law firm right across the street from the restaurant. The menu changes every day and is very much like the seasonal, organic restaurants of the San Francisco Bay Area. Downtown lists the local sources of their ingredients, and they always try to go organic.

We started with the Roasted Beet Salad with oranges, pecans, arugula, pistachio and a cheese called ricotta salata. The beets could have been a wee bit more tender, but overall it was a refreshing light start to our meal. Judy and I both liked the cheese, which had a salty flavor to it similar to pecorino but with the milky texture of ricotta.

For our entrees, Judy got the Pork Milanese with spring vegetables and a grilled lime. It’s similar to pork cutlet, but pounded very thin. Judy says she liked it, and I thought the breaded exterior had a nice flavor to it. But with so much pork, it seems like the dish would feel a bit dry without some kind of sauce.

I wanted to try a local fish, so I ordered the Seared Ono with white beans, Kahuku eggplant and Waianae cabbage. (Kahuku and Waianae are towns outside of Honolulu where a lot of produce are grown.) Ono is a nice, thick white fish and while it tasted good, it too was a bit on the dry side for my tastes. I did love the tender white beans and eggplant on one side and the shredded cabbage with light vinaigrette on the other.

We ended our lunch with the Pear Crisp topped with rum raisin ice cream. The crisp was what you’d expect it to be—a warm crumble of diced pears and crust cooled by the rich ice cream. It was a satisfying end to our meal.

I should also note that we had the best server in the house. Judy says he had waited at her table in the past and he’s always been good. And I agree because he was friendly, professional and very accommodating. He was expert in explaining all the dishes and would go out of his way to get things for us when we needed it. So the service, at least with this one server, was really above average.

Side note: There’s no parking, which is a problem when visiting downtown. So I’d recommend catching the bus because virtually every bus passes through downtown. If you do need to park, there is a public parking lot a block south of the restaurant (entrance is on Alakea Street) next to a popular dim sum restaurant called Mandalay. Just be prepared to pay a premium for parking.

Downtown@HiSAM is small but a popular place for lunch, and with good reason with its fresh and simple flavors. While the food reminds me a lot of the Bay Area, the local sourcing of ingredients definitely adds the island touch.

Single guy rating: 3 stars (Lunch and Art)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


One of the added bonus of eating at Downtown is strolling the galleries of HiSAM afterwards. HiSAM is in a renovated historic downtown building of the former Army YMCA. The art museum, which features contemporary collections, is primarily on the second floor. While it’s not a big museum, it’s free, which is a nice plus for something downtown. (It wasn’t very busy when I was there.)

There are only two small gallery spaces in the museum, and the following are some of my favorite things I saw at the current exhibit called Uncommon Objects.




Sunday, May 11, 2008

Mother's Day and the Brunch Buffet

HONOLULU
So you know the main reason for my trip is to visit with my mom for Mother's Day. The day is finally here and it just means a lot of eating, morning, day and night. These are just some of the pictures from the brunch buffet we all went to at the Kuhio Beach Grill, a restaurant in the Waikiki Marriott Hotel, which used to be called the Hawaiian Regent Hotel when I was growing up.

I'm not a big buffet person but my mom loves it. She doesn't eat a lot but she just likes having all the choices. There were an omelet station, salad bar, cold meats and cheese, marinated fish section, dim sum, and a whole bunch of entrees. Then of course there were tons of desserts. This is just maybe 10 percent of what I saw.





Now I'm going to the beach to walk some of this off before dinner tonight. Hope all you moms out there are having a great day for yourself! Enjoy the food wherever you are!

Saturday, May 10, 2008

Family Luau

HONOLULU
I probably eat Hawaiian food, mostly kalua pig, more often than the rest of my family. So I appreciate whenever I come home and I tell them I have a craving for Hawaiian food that they go along and eat it with me. That's what I did this past week when I visited my younger brother's home and we feasted on some Hawaiian take-out. It was like a mini luau, without the whole roasted pig and the fire dancers.

Of course, the king of our mini luau was the kalua pig. I actually make this in the Bay Area when I get the craving, but it's always a challenge getting the right balance of salty and smokey flavor. My sister picked up the Hawaiian food and she got this tray of kalua pig from Bob's Bar-B-Que. (I originally thought she said she got it at Bob's Big Boy. I thought, wow, the Bob's Big Boy in Hawaii are really catering to the locals. But I was wrong.) For those who don't remember, kalua pig is a slow roasted pork that's salted and so good when juicy. This was good stuff.

Here's a big bowl of Chicken Long Rice. The dish gets it's name from the long rice noodles that are clear. It has pieces of chicken and sits in a light broth. It's usually garnished with green onions but we had it on the side because it might throw off the kids. This dish and most of the other Hawaiian food came from another place called Haili's Hawaiian Foods in the Ward Farmers Market, which is a collection of food stands near the Ward Warehouse shopping mall.

We also had another traditional Hawaiian dish called laulau, which is filled with meat, this one pork, and wrapped with ti leaves and some other greens and then steamed until super tender and captures the essence of the leaves. I never liked this as a child but love it now as an adult. It reminds me of tamales but without the cornmeal. I don't have a picture of it because the shot I got was totally blurry.

Here's a side dish of poke (pronounced poh-kay) and it's traditionally made with raw tuna, soy sauce and seaweed. There are also some other seasoning. I started eating this when I started getting into raw fish.

Here's another side dish that's really traditional as well. It's called Lomi Lomi Salmon made with tomatoes, cured salmon and onions. (Lomi lomi means to massage.) It's very light, sitting in its own juices and I like the saltiness of the salmon. When I make this on the mainland, I use lox.

The Hawaiian diet is heavy on starch (just think of poi, which is pounded taro). So my sister got a couple of sweet potatoes that were cooked until tender and then sliced up. It was so sweet and good and so simple. I might just make this as a side for dinner back home.

Mmmm, my favorite part of eating Hawaiian food ... the haupia. This is the gelatin coconut dessert. Now, everyone makes it differently and most follow a family recipe. The ingredients are simple, just coconut milk, sugar and cornstarch. But you have to know the right balance to really get it done well. This particular haupia leaned toward the gelatin side, which meant it was more waxy and smooth. But I actually like haupia that's like solid pudding, firm but still creamy inside. That's the type of recipe I'm still trying to perfect. Above my brother is cutting the haupia into squares, which is how you often see it served.

Here's my nephew Connor filled with anticipation for more desserts, this time these cream puffs from Liliha Bakery. These cream puffs are so popular people always mention it when I ask what's a good dessert to get in Hawaii. They're made with different flavors and the bakery gets crowded with people buying these. I actually think the puff pastry part of the puffs are a bit rough, but I do love the creamy filling inside.

I couldn't believe we had so much dessert. Here's another cake from Liliha Bakery and it's also a haupia-themed cake accented with chocolate. When you slice it, there are three layers of cake: one white, one chocolate and the final layer of coconut flavor. It's topped with frosting that has haupia pudding mixed in, giving it a really moist coconut essence. It was soooo good.

Here's my niece Madison getting her plate of Hawaiian food. She looks pretty happy, but I'm not sure if it's because of the food or just all the family gathering together. Then again, she's generally a pretty happy girl. And who wouldn't be with all this ono food to eat!

Bob's Bar-B-Que, 1366 Dillingham Blvd., Honolulu. PH: 808.842.3663
Haili's Hawaiian Foods, 1020 Auahi St., Honolulu. PH: 808.593.8019
Liliha Bakery, 515 N. Kuakini St., Honolulu. PH: 808.531.1651

Friday, May 09, 2008

Travel Dish: Beijing (Honolulu)

The Capital for Dim Sum in Honolulu
2301 Kalakaua Ave., 3rd Floor
Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center, Waikiki
PH: 808.971.8833
Open for lunch and dinner
Major credit cards, reservations accepted
Web site


HONOLULU
When making the rounds of dim sum spots while visiting my mom in Honolulu, one of the more luxurious places for this tea lunch is the Beijing Chinese Seafood Restaurant in the heart of Waikiki.

This elegant fine-dining establishment has a certain Hong Kong air to its approach to service. You can tell from the time you sit down and they hand you a moist hand towel to wipe your hands before lunch.

Beijing, which is the same name of the capital of China, is on the third floor of the Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center. The center itself is going through a transformation as many of the stores have closed to make way for new renovated digs. When I was there, the first phase was already open on the opposite end of Beijing with several new stores, many of them names I regularly see at San Francisco’s Union Square. (I’m talking stores like L’Occitane, Juicy Couture and Kate Spade.)

But Beijing has been around for a few years. While it serves primarily the tourist crowds, it still attracts some locals who are enticed by its pretty environment. It’s not a dim sum place people go to often, mostly because the menu is limited to just 20 dim sum selections and the prices are on the high end at around $3.50 per plate.

My mom used to live in Waikiki so she often visited Beijing for lunch. So when we went for dim sum this week, virtually every server knew her and she would catch up with each one who came by the table. (This is probably why some of my shots were a bit off as I had to snap them quickly so as not to embarrass my mom in front of her friends.)

The dim sum are ordered with your waiter and then brought to your table instead of the circling carts or trays at other restaurants. Along with the dim sum selection, Beijing also offers soup noodles and specialty dishes for lunch.

My mom had a hankering for soup noodles, so I suggested my favorite rice noodle soup with shredded duck meat and preserved cabbage. They had a similar item on the menu but with beef. So my mom asked them to sub the beef with duck. The single order of this rice noodle soup was pretty large. I spooned out about five individual bowls of the soup.

The soup itself was really tasty and light, and the rice noodle was perfectly al dente. But I thought the duck meat could have been shredded more thinly and the cabbage looked like it was more fresh cabbage as opposed to the preserved Northern style of cabbage that has that unique pickled savory flavor. Still, my mom says she liked it enough that she might order it again when she comes without me in the future.

For the dim sum, we tried a few dishes that my mom gave me the OK to order. Some of the items I wanted to order she vetoed because she said they were just OK but not great. That included basics like siu mai, which she says was just a big clump of pork meat.

So what we did order included the pot stickers, which I enjoyed even though it wasn’t perfect. The skin was nicely pan-fried but I felt a bit thick. But I fell in love with the filling, which was tender and soft, making me feel like I was eating plumped little dumplings.

Speaking of dumplings, Beijing makes one of the best versions of Shanghai soup dumplings, or xiu lung bao, in Honolulu. These little pockets of meat and soup just burst in your mouth with flavor and taste. Just be sure to let it cool a bit instead of biting into it right away (yes, I speak from experience).

We also got one of my standards, the pan-fried turnip cakes. The turnip cakes were perfectly pan-fried with a light crispy skin, but I thought the pieces were a bit on the thin side compared to what I’ve eaten at other restaurants. The texture of the gel-like turnip concoction was smooth and good.

My mom ordered her favorite called ham shui gok, which is a deep-fried glutinous ball filled with salted pork. I didn’t try this because it was deep-fried and I feel the sticky texture makes you feel weighted down afterwards. But it looked nicely crisp.

I sometimes feel like I’m such a hypocrite because I just talked about not eating sticky stuff, but here you see the traditional sticky rice with chicken. This is probably the only glutinous rice dish I’d eat because of the unique flavor of the filling of chicken, herbs and salted duck in the center of the sticky rice, which is all steamed in lotus leaves for that nice flavor. Beijing’s version is a nice tender packet of flavor.

When eating in Beijing, especially during the weekdays, you feel like you’re escaping the crowds of Waikiki and being treated like an emperor (and you can see your throne in a window just outside the restaurant). It can get a bit hectic on the weekends, but it’s still a place on the dim sum circuit for solid offerings in a regal setting.

Single guy rating: 3.25 stars (It's quality, not quantity)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Thursday, May 08, 2008

Top Chef: Season 4, Episode 9

This is a special vacation edition of my Top Chef recaps. That’s right, in between the beach and the non-stop eating, I’m recapping a special 75-minute episode for you all. Even though I’m three hours behind California, and I’m trying to watch this extended episode while not ignoring questions from my niece, here you have it. So hang loose, brah, and enjoy!

Till Dale Do Us Part

Previously: Australian Mark thought his blowing was perfect, but apparently his curry wasn’t, despite an assist from someone half his size. Antonia misses her daughter, but it’s Mark who goes home crying. No worries, mate.

At stake is the title of … TOP CHEF. Or what they call the Big Kahuna here in Hawaii.

Cue the dance montage. Sigh, where do they think they are? The Ellen Show?

The wind’s blowing the trees outside the cheftestants’ apartment and inside Andrew is comforting an “upset” Spike who’s missing his boy Mark. The bromance on this season is off the charts! But no problem, because Andrew’s going to move in with Spike. All’s well with the boys. For the girls, they look determined and Antonia says this is the first time in Top Chef history that so many women have made it through this far. So that increases the speculation that this year we might see the first female Top Chef. And if we believe Nikki, she’ll be a fighter. That’s right. A Top Chef and a Heavyweight Champion. Go figure.

Quickfire challenge. Chef Tom Colicchio is in the Top Chef kitchen with Padma, so already the cheftestants are all like, brah, dat lo lo (translation=that’s crazy). BTW Padma, Sgt. Pepper called and he wants his jacket back.

Padma says that from now on, the Quickfire winner doesn’t get immunity. Dale is maaaaaad.

This challenge is supposed to be a combination of two of the Top Chef favorite challenges. I can’t believe someone went around determining which Top Chef challenges were the most popular. I think it’s really just the two challenges the producers felt would torture the cheftestants the most. OK, I guess I can go for that.

They split the cheftestants into two groups. They pull knives and they either get a spoon or fork. Then there are a bunch of products at the table that needs prepping, so this is the Mise en Place relay race where last season we got to see Hung do a Jack The Ripper on a poor chicken. Here, it looks like they have to peel and section five oranges, clean two artichokes, clean and fillet two monkfish and make one quart of mayonnaise from scratch.

The teams take a minute to divvy up the work, and Nikki is stressing about making mayonnaise without a food processor, so of course she gets pushed to do mayonnaise. Dale feels people like Nikki who can’t make mayonnaise are trying his patience. He’s wondering why she’s still around. You’re not the only one, braddah.

The race begins and it’s Lisa vs. Antonia with the oranges. Lisa is all shaky hands and Antonia is Miss Perfect with the oranges, so Lisa and her shaky orange sections get the lead and her team moves on to the artichokes with Spike doing a machete job on a poor artichoke.

Eventually Antonia is done so Andrew steps up to do the artichokes. Spike is already on his second one but he falls behind when he massacres his second artichoke and has to start all over. Andrew moves quickly (like fire, he says) because he discovered the peeler.

Andrew catches up and he and Spike finishes at the same time. Next is monkfish and it’s Richard vs. Dale. Naturally, Dale is butchering the monkfish while Richard looks like a sushi chef the way he’s carefully cutting into the fish. (BTW, monkfish is one ugly-ass fish.) Even though Dale is going fast, they both pretty much end at the same time. Leaving it up to the mayonnaise round with Stephanie vs. Nikki.

This is the tough round because they need a lot of arm muscle to whisk the eggs and olive oil. Stephanie is going fast and furious while Nikki’s arm looks a bit disjointed while she’s whisking. So that means Stephanie makes up the most mayonnaise and wins.

Dale is so angry that his team lost that he says fuck really loud and punches the lockers behind him. You know, I don’t know if the beep by the editors is too short or if I already know he’s saying fuck, but I really felt like I totally heard Dale say the F word clearly. Anyone else heard it? Anywho, Antonia has the funniest line when she says Dale is such a baby, and basically he punched the locker then he had to get a diaper change.

Commercials. Arby’s Rescue Brigade. We’re supposed to believe a flat bread melt (which looks like a soft taco) will save a life? Hey, did you see all those food porn shots from that Wolf Sub-Zero commercial? Or was that just here in Hawaii?

Elimination challenge. So Padma says the second “most favorite” Top Chef challenge is Restaurant Wars, you know, where they have to create a restaurant concept from scratch overnight. I love watching that challenge too. But Padma introduces this couple as some restaurant experts. She says they’re also getting married, so the twist is instead of creating a restaurant, they have to cater their wedding.

OK, how is this supposed to be like Restaurant Wars? And does that mean they’re not going to do the restaurant challenge this season? I’m so frustrated it’s really bumming out my vacation. Anywho, they have to cater a wedding but each team has to make food for the two sides of the wedding: one for the groom and one for the bride, about 125 guests each. Padma says they’ll have cots available because they have to go non-stop until tomorrow night.

The winning team in the Quickfire (Richard, Andrew, Stephanie and Antonia) get to choose which party they’ll cater and Richard says they’ll choose the bride (Cory) because it’s really the bride’s day. Spike interviews that they’re crazy because who would want to run the risk with working with a bridezilla. He wants to play it safe and deal with the groom (J.P.) who will probably be happy with anything. Good strategy to challenge yourself Spike, you Faker.

Andrew interviews that he’s excited about the prospects of pulling an all-nighter and that he has “a culinary boner” at this time. Ah, the mystery quote from last week. It was a preview, and Andrew does have a reason for a culinary boner apparently. If working like slaves and being sleep deprived can get someone excited. Whatever floats your boat, Andrew.

The two teams talk to the couple separately and the groom says his favorite cake is German chocolate (oooh, that used to be mines too) and the bride says she wants something Southern because she’s from Atlanta. Richard says he’s from Atlanta so he thinks he’ll have an edge. I don’t really see how that’s an edge because it’s not like Atlantans (are that what they’re called?) all eat the same things

For the groom, he says he likes Italian so the team of Spike, Nikki, Lisa and Dale start to come up with a menu, and they’re relying heavily on Nikki because she has the most experience with that cuisine. But of course, Nikki being Nikki says just because she cooks Italian doesn’t mean she likes cooking Italian. WTF? Then why has she been cooking that for all these years? I think Nikki just don’t want to take the lead and run the risk of getting all the blame if things fall apart, and you know with this group, it might. (In fact, Dale says no one likes each other on the team. Dale, I think it’s more like nobody likes you.)

The teams drive off and gosh it looks like an unusually sunny day in Chicago. The shopping is pretty boring so I’ll just basically say they buy food from Restaurant Depot, which is like Costco, and the guys go buy flowers. Richard is trying to fill in the role as a metrosexual since Ryan left because he says he’s the best person to go buy the flowers because he watches Martha Stewart and wears pink shoes. I’m pretty sure he was being sarcastic, but I think he does have pink shoes. (We know he does have a pink shirt.)

It’s 9 p.m. and the cheftestants arrive at the Top Chef kitchen to start cooking. They have 14 hours to cook before the wedding. We get a better idea of what each team is making. For the groom, they’re making flat breads, bruschetta, tortellini, an antipasti with mixed vegetables and cheese, filet mignon and Chilean sea bass. Lisa is in charge of baking the cake, which will be a chocolate hazelnut.

On the bride’s team, they’re making pizza, pulled pork sandwiches, short ribs with blue cheese, crispy chicken, brisket, filet mignon, creamed spinach and potatoes and Stephanie will be baking a chocolate and lemon cake.

Richard is taking the lead on the bride’s side again by default, even though Andrew is trying his best to get Richard out of his business so he can focus on making his creamed spinach. On the groom’s team, everyone’s leaning on Nikki for the Italian cooking and she looks like she’s taking the lead but won’t admit it. While she’s the Italian consultant, Dale becomes the workhorse by grabbing all the responsibilities for cooking everything, basically. He’s going to be tiiiiiired.

Commercials. Do iPod really need to have commercials? Don’t they sell themselves? What is that song they’re using? Some freaking and shut up song. I’m so out of the iTunes.

11:15 p.m. The bride’s team is pretty confident. 2 a.m. Andrew is cooking spinach, which will take five hours. I think he just said he’s making Popeye’s wet dream. Or maybe I’m so tired that I heard wrong. Sounds like something he would say.

Lisa feels Dale is doing a half-ass job. He’s doing a lot so why is she bitching instead of helping out? Spike says he needs to get his hands on one dish so Dale doesn’t take all the glory. He chooses the sea bass and starts cooking that dish.

It’s now 5:33 am. They’re all tired and I bet a bit stinky. Would you want someone cooking food for your wedding when they’re probably stinky and sweating all over things? Ugh. They say everyone’s different when they get tired. So apparently Andrew stops talking (which everyone agrees is a good thing), Spike keeps saying he’s going crazy in case people don’t believe that he is, indeed, crazy, and Antonia makes this weird face and never breaks out of that.

Now it’s sunrise, and in comes Chef Tom at 7:33 a.m. He checks with both teams and I really never get much of his conversations with them. The only way these visits from Chef Tom gets interesting is when he interviews outside on his early thoughts about what’s happening in the kitchen.

So Tom says the bride’s team is making food that can be pulled off if seasoned well and he believes it’s a strong team. He thinks the groom’s team has the advantage by making Italian, which he thinks is easy. But he did note that Lisa’s cake, which doesn’t have to look pretty because it’s for the groom, still looks like a battleship. I agree.

Commercials. Coppertone. Am I seeing this only because I’m in Hawaii? I brought a big tub of sunblock with me, but not Coppertone. What’s that commercial with all the tennis balls for something called the Ladders? Are all these commercials different in Hawaii? Odd.

Wedding time. Everyone’s happy but it’s the windy city so the wedding guests are all dressed up but their hair is getting messed up. The editors rush through the romantic wedding ceremony because they know we just want to get to the food.

Of course, after hours of little sleep and all the ego in the kitchen, people are a bit grouchy as they’re putting the last-minute touches to their food. Padma walks in with the judges’ panel and it’s Tom, Gail and another Gale (Gand), the pastry chef at a Chicago restaurant called Tru. Again, Chicago local Stephanie vouches that Gand is the best pastry chef in the city.

J.P. and Cory exchanges their vows. The servers come in and it’s game time. OK, so I’m not clear about the concept because one team cooked for the groom and one team cooked for the bride. But are they eating separately? What a way to start a marriage. Actually, I think everyone is eating everything, so it’s really not as split as they made it out to be. (They should have made one team cook for the groom as a cocktail reception and the bride as the main dinner. That’s what I would have done.)

After the appetizers, which everyone seems to like except for the crunchy bruschetta from the groom’s team, they move on to the buffet. Antonia’s funny because she’s out with the guests with Richard while Andrew’s in the kitchen because they “don’t allow Andrew to touch the guests.” Too funny.

On the groom’s team, things aren’t as pretty. Nikki lacks focus, mostly because of lack of sleep, and Dale and Spike are in the kitchen. The bride Cory seems to like most of the food, and she sure does eat a lot of meat. One female guest is going crazy for the creamed spinach, which I personally am not a big fan of. It’s like old people’s food, just green mush.

Padma seems to like all the food, and the other judges are going on and on about the horseradish sauce. If they were in Hawaii, they’d say it was “ono.” Now the groom gets his plate. He grabs some of the fresh vegetables and cheese, some roasted vegetables. There’s some tortellini and Spike’s Chilean sea bass.

Both sides served filet mignon, but I have to say the bride’s team had the juicier looking piece of meat compared to the groom’s team. Gail says she thinks the groom’s team dishes looked a bit uninspired.

Time for the cake. I’ve never been to a wedding where they had two cakes, but it’s a Top Chef wedding so they do. They cut into Stephanie’s cake, which does look pretty with the white frosting and flower petals for a trim (smart move). The groom’s cake looks like a mess. Despite looking like a crap load of chocolate, the groom J.R. gives a thumbs up. Or he could be indicating that he’s going to get some tonight. ;-)

The exhausted cheftestants clean up and leave the party. The bride’s team is pretty confident and the groom’s team just looks plain mad. I think that’s about right.

Commercials. That Honda CR V commercial where they make a cookie dough lettering is pretty cool, huh? It’s a nice tie-in for a food show. But then again I saw the same commercial running on the Bravo Step It Up and Dance show, which doesn’t translate as well there.

Everyone’s in the stew room yawning. Spike the Fake actually makes a nice gesture by giving props to Lisa and Stephanie for making the wedding cakes, which no one would have wanted to make. Then Padma calls for the bride’s team. And even though they’re probably the likely winners, they still look kind of worried. Must be the lack of sleep.

But sure enough, after some questioning to see who did what, they’re told that they’re the winning team. As the guest judge, Gale Gand names Richard as the winner because she thinks he was responsible for the successful food. Hard to say, I think they all helped out. But Richard does a nice gesture by giving it to Stephanie, again because everyone realizes they would have been screwed without a wedding cake and no one but Stephanie agreed to do it.

What did Richard give up? A $2,000 gift certificate from Crate & Barrel. My guess is that they did this because 1) Crate & Barrel is such the common place to go for wedding gifts and 2) it’s a Chicago-based company. I bet Richard’s kicking himself now, but Stephanie is also nice so she offers to go half-sies. Everyone just loves each other on this team.

Then they call in the groom team, and no one wants to take responsibility for the food, although the judges are hinting pretty hard that Nikki must have been the leader because of her Italian specialty. But the real action is the piss fight between Dale and Spike. Dale is going on and on about how he did everything, and Spike is all “just come out and say it, you think I’m a lazy slug.” Dale pretty much comes out and says that (although I’m not really sure because every other word is bleeped) and Nikki has to break up the fight. BTW, Lisa doesn’t say much except stand to the side and look angry.

The judges deliberate and Gail says there’s a major ego war going on and that Dale should have asked for help instead of doing everything. Tom is disappointed that Nikki didn’t lead more despite her Italian specialty. In the stew room, Dale is egging Spike on but Spike is unusually quiet, while Nikki tries to get Dale to stop.

Commercials. Tropicana has made OJ sexy, and I’m talking orange juice, not that jerk Simpson guy. Pure Valencia Orange juice. Sex it up baby.

Judgment time. Tom says Dale did all the work but they didn’t care for a lot of it. Spike didn’t carry his share of the load, but he faked it well. But when it comes to who’s knives go home, it’s the ones that belong to Nikki. I’m not really sure how they came to this conclusion but I’m sure it’s probably along the lines of “oh, wait, weren’t we supposed to eliminate Nikki a couple of episodes ago?” So they finally get around to it, and Nikki goes home and she says she’s going full speed ahead to somewhere.

Next: They’re all shocked to see a tall, dark and handsome cook, but I thought we already had the hot chef in the dessert episode? Everyone’s focusing their hate on Spike, and looks like they’re in the police or military group. Spike looks like he’s falling apart.

BTW, I've realized it's hard to concentrate on recapping during a vacation. It's hard to think of Dale, Spike and the rest of the gang when the sun is shining and I just want to go to the beach. Next week I'll be back home and I can be my bitter self! Until then, Aloooooha!

Top Chef aires Wednesday nights at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Check out videos and multiple blogs at the Top Chef Web site. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV.

Wednesday, May 07, 2008

Cooling Off With Shaved Ice and Tradewinds

HONOLULU
Whenever I first arrive in Honolulu, I have to get adjusted to the hot weather. Despite that I grew up with this, I think the years of living in the San Francisco Bay Area have spoiled me to the temperate weather my body is used to now.

So one of the things that helps me cool off in the hot weather here is the favorite childhood treat--shaved ice. When I grew up, every neighborhood store had a shaved ice machine that the kids would gather after school and totally get sticky from the cool mixture of shaved ice particles and syrup.

Similar to a snow cone, shaved ice is far superior because when done right it's like little fluffy wisps of coldness. A big block of ice is placed into a shaving machine (originally from Japan I think) and then it's thinly shaved until you get a pile of shavings that you place into a cone. You can get a variety of flavored syrup placed onto the ice, just like Italian syrup. The classic in Hawaii is called "Rainbow" and it's made from a combination of three flavors: blue (vanilla), red (strawberry) and yellow (coconut). The blending of the colors create the other three colors--purple, orange and green--to create the rainbow look. I got the classic rainbow yesterday the day I arrived into town.

Now the best shaved ice in town is in the North Shore of Oahu in the town of Haleiwa. At an old-time store called Matsumoto's, people stand in line snaking out the door for a cone of shaved ice. Matsumoto has taken shaved ice to the next level by adding other treats like a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the bottom or, reflecting the Japanese influence, bits of azuki beans (or red beans).

I'm not heading out to North Shore this time around, so I had to just settle for this shaved ice that I got at the Ala Moana Shopping Center in town at this new kiosk that I never noticed in my previous trips. It's called Zagu and they also sell those pearl shakes made with the little tapioca pearls (but they make theirs from mochi). The shaved ice was pretty good. But then again, anything tastes great when it's hot outside.

To be honest, the weather actually isn't super hot. It's actually quite beautiful. We're experiencing a mix of sun and clouds right now in Honolulu and the temperature during the days are in the mid-70s, which feels great with the tradewinds blowing. I believe the tradewinds are the gift from the gods, because without it Hawaii feels hot and sticky. So I'm always grateful for this island breeze.

Here was my view this morning when I was laying under the palm trees at Ala Moana Beach Park. I was plotting which restaurants I was going to go tomorrow. I'm excited because I actually have reservations to Nobu, the Hawaii outpost of this famous L.A.-N.Y. chef. BTW, what do you think those clouds look like?

Here are my feet getting wet for the first time at the beach in more than two years. People often ask me what I miss about Hawaii and I always say my nephews and nieces and the beach, in that order. Gosh, you can see my feet really need a tan.

I like to go to Ala Moana Beach because it's central and across the street from the shopping center. But I go to the section of the beach called Magic Island. It's a man-made lagoon where a lot of kids go to play because the waves are blocked by a wall. Since I'm not a good swimmer, this is my hangout. And on a weekday, there are no kids because they're all in school, so I pretty much have the beach to myself as you can see from above.

What Would Jasmine Do?

This is Jasmine, my sister's Golden Retriever. I'm staying with my sister and Jasmine is my model for how I'm going to spend my trip ... just laying out in the sun and just enjoying the day. So whenever I get too busy or hectic running around trying to accomplish too much on my vacation, I'm going to think of Jasmine and say, WWJD?

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

Dim Sum and Aloha

Aloha from our 50th state! Here I am in Honolulu visiting my mom for Mother's Day. You'd think I would post a photo of the palm trees or a beach scene, but the first thing I did when I landed was go to get some dim sum with my mom. Since I'm visiting her, most of what you'll be hearing about my trip is the Chinese food in Hawaii. So we went to one of my mom's favorite place, Legend Seafood Restaurant at the Chinese Cultural Plaza near Chinatown. I'll do a full review later, but here's a photo of my mom's favorite dish to eat for dim sum ... chicken feet. It was all for her. I have never attempted to even try eating it. Wait, I think I did eat it once and nearly choked so probably have some repressed, scarred childhood memory. Luckily there are a lot more other things for me to eat here. More later!

Sunday, May 04, 2008

Cooking Up Dinner and a Date


Since this blog is called Cooking With The Single Guy, it just made sense for me to take part in a cooking class for singles. So when I got an invitation recently to be a guest at a cooking class and wine tasting from Parties That Cook, I was there in a Sex-And-The-City moment.

Parties That Cook was started by Bibby Gignilliat, a former marketing professional for Williams-Sonoma Inc. who left to follow her passion in cooking. She’s since taught cooking classes at places like Tante Marie’s Cooking School, HomeChef and Sur La Table. The company puts on cooking classes at locations around the Bay Area and can develop corporate-themed team building events for you and your co-workers.

The event I attended was the monthly cooking class dedicated for singles. A cooking class is probably one of the top 5 most often recommended places for singles to meet their future spouse. A little bit of eye contact, some spice here and there, and things can get hot in the kitchen, if you know what I mean. ;-)

The event took place this past Thursday night, and it was the first time Parties That Cook put on its singles class with Crushpad Winery for a combination cooking class and wine tasting. So it was called Cooking Crush for Singles Party. The Crushpad Winery happens to be on Third Street in the Dogpatch neighborhood, which I only discovered a couple of weeks ago. So it was back on the T-Line for me to head over to class.

When I arrived, people were already mingling and snacking on some chips and appetizers. The people at Crushpad were serving tasting of its 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, which they had just taken out of the barrel that day. It was subtle in flavor but refreshing for a summer day.

Cooking stations were set up in the warehouse-like area of Crushpad Winery. This was also the first time I’ve heard about a winery in San Francisco. What’s unusual about Crushpad is you’re the winemaker. They produce customized wine based on your blending choices. So you come in, talk to their wine experts, pick your grapes and come back months later (depending on whether it’s red or white wine) and get your cases of boutique wine. (I later learned from a Crushpad employee at the event that the minimum order of customized wine is one barrel. Do you know how many bottles of wine come from one barrel? 300. Yep, that’s a lot of vino. So they often recommend that you pool together with a few friends to come up with your signature wine.)

About 40 people signed up for the cooking class, and the Parties That Cook people were smart enough to register an equal number of men and women. As you might have guessed, there was a waiting list for women who wanted to take the class, but not so much for the guys. I felt a bit guilty because I knew I was attending the class as an “observer” so I could feature the class on my blog. I equally felt guilty that there was 0 percent chance of me “hooking up” with any of the singles since I’m gay and as far as I could tell all the guys there were straight. Nevertheless, I foraged on with my wine glass in hand and camera on my side.

We started with a tour of the facilities by Stuart Ake of Crushpad. Then we did a tasting of two white wines that were still in their infancy. The wine was taken out of its barrel that day. One was a 2006 Chardonnay aged in a fresh oak barrel and the other was aged in an older oak barrel that had lost most of its “oak-ness” for a more neutral flavor. This was also an opportunity for everyone to mingle and talk about the wine, and more.

I chatted with a few people about why they took the class, and many of them came because of a friend’s suggestion. A few of them were veterans of singles cooking classes while a few of them were newbies. I also felt the crowd was a nice mix of ages. But like most singles events, the sexes seemed to stay close with each other and there were very few mixing in the beginning. But there were more bottles of wine to open, so you never know.

We finally got to cooking and started with a demonstration of basic cooking techniques from Chef Mat, who is one of the lead chefs at Parties That Cook. He went over the different recipes that we were going to be making and then split the room into boys and girls for the count off so we could break into teams. Each team would be making one appetizer.

I was in team 6 and we were in charge of making tiny chorizo tortillas bites. On my team were Ed, Erin, Tiryns and Ms. A (she didn’t want to give her full name because she’s in the dating protection program). We all started to prep our ingredients, which meant a lot of chopping. There were actually more people than was really necessary to make the recipe, so I mostly took photos and drank pinot noir and basically became a nuisance to my teammates.

I’m pretty sure my chatting with them was the reason we didn’t realize we needed to turn on our table-top burner to start cooking because it eventually took a long time for us to render the potatoes tender for our Spanish tortilla.

Eventually, the other teams were done making their appetizers and they were proudly parading them around the room for everyone to taste. I liked the minced beef in lettuce cups and the mini salmon croque monsieur. But there were also cornbread tartlets, pita pockets and quesadilla to try. By the time our little tortillas were done from the oven, I think most people were full.

As everyone tasted each other’s food, the conversation flowed more freely like the wine. The mingling went into full steam. Because I felt guilty throwing the dynamics off for the evening, I tried to play matchmaker with a few of my new friends, pointing them to whom I think would be right for them. I can’t say I was successful, but at least I tried my little cupid-butt off.

In the end, I don’t know if I felt like I did much cooking. I don’t know if the recipes were too simple or there were too many of us to really do any hands-on cooking, but the cooking portion really seemed to zip by. The entire event lasted three hours, but half of that time was spent tasting wine and mingling.

I spotted a few people exchanging business cards at the end of the night, so who knows if I was witnessing a match in action. Like my new friend Ms. A says, if you don’t find a match, at least you can meet some good friends who enjoy food and wine. Now that’s a match made in heaven.


Addressing the group is Stuart Ake, left, of Crushpad, and Bibbly Gignilliat of Parties That Cook.

Someone's really working out some aggression on the lamb. Actually, this is Ben (another Ben!) who's hamming it up for the camera.


Erin is sauteeing onions for our Spanish chorizo tortillas. Eventually we added in the potatoes and Erin had to step aside to multiple people who kept coming by to check to see if the potatoes were tender.

Here's our tortilla bites finally out from the oven! Don't they look cute?


For upcoming events and cooking classes at Parties That Cook, check its Web site. They also have regular cooking blog that you can read here. If you want to make your own wine, you can learn more about Crushpad here.

Saturday, May 03, 2008

Food Paparazzi

Chef Chris Cosentino is a regular at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market. I've seen him a few times when I've been there on Saturday morning. He was there again today doing his weekly shopping. As some of you know, Cosentino is the chef of the popular Incanto restaurant in Noe Valley, and is known for serving all parts of the animal on his menu. You can read more about his approach to offal here. I didn't spot him buying any meat (he's holding a big bag of spring onions under his arm), but I noticed later as he drove off that his car was packed with boxes of produce and, I'm sure, meat. (BTW, I noticed his signature blond highlights were not as dominant. I guess he's trying the more natural look.)

Friday, May 02, 2008

Fire-up the Kiln for a Heath Weekend

One day I’m going to rent a car and visit some foodie places in the North and South Bay, like the Heath Ceramics Factory Store in Sausalito. I’m a fan of these beautiful ceramic dinnerware and vases but I don’t even own a piece. That’s because they’re pretty darn expensive.

So I’m kicking myself that I didn’t realize that this weekend is the Heath Ceramics once-a-year Spring Open Studio, where items in the factory store will be sold at a 15 percent discount. Granted, that’s not a very big discount, but it sounds like a fun event to do some shopping, get a tour of the factory, watch some tile glazing and supposedly chow down on some BBQ. What more can you ask for in a weekend?

The Spring Open Studio hours are Saturday, May 3, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Sunday, May 4, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the Factory Store at 400 Gate Five Road in Sausalito. And if you’re like me and can’t make it out all the way to Sausalito, you can check out its Web site and order pieces and get free shipping until May 8.

Photos courtesy of Heath Ceramics Web site.

Thursday, May 01, 2008

Top Chef: Season 4, Episode 8

Welcome to the Top Chef Sweat Shop

Previously: It’s Comedy Night and laughing all the way to the top three is Spike who gets to finally make his squash soup. But the joke’s on Jennifer, who is sent home back into the loving arms of her Zoi.

Anyone else getting tired hearing about the French Alps and Gladware? I thought so. But it all pays for the title of … TOP CHEF.

We start off with the Chicago skyline but Lisa doesn’t seem to be paying much attention to the view because she looks lost smoking a cigarette for breakfast. Ah, the breakfast of champions. We’re treated to watching the cheftestants waking up and getting ready, including a shirtless Australian Mark and his tattoos and that awful headband. It has returned. Or maybe it’s like the sun where you stare at it so long that you don’t notice it any more, or you go blind. Antonia talks about being all fired up after being in the bottom three last week. I hope that means she’ll be less whiney.

Quickfire Challenge. The cheftestants arrive at the Top Chef kitchen and find Art Smith, who’s known mostly as the guy who feeds Oprah. I only know him as that odd judge on Iron Chef America who always loves the Southern fried foods but supposedly is into healthy eating. What’s up with that? BTW, he just opened a new restaurant in Chicago (Table Fifty-Two) and won a James Beard award for his volunteer work, so does he really have time anymore to cook for Oprah? I guess you never say no to Oprah when she needs a hamburger.

Product placement alert: On the table are bags and bags of Uncle Ben’s rice. This rice is the bane of my existence. For awhile, I could never hear my nephews and nieces call me Uncle Ben without me thinking about this stupid rice. And of course the countless ribbing from friends using this product as a way for their children to remember to call me Uncle Ben. I hate this rice and would never use it, and I feel sorry for the cheftestants who now have to come up with an entrée using the microwavable rice in 15 minutes. (That’s 15 minutes for the whole dish. The rice is just 90 seconds.)

The cheftestants start shoving whole bags of rice into the microwave, and everyone’s running around more than usual since they only have 15 minutes. People say “behind” so many times you’d think they’re asking everyone to take a look at their behinds.

Because they have to think of something really quick, most people are heading into the vaults of their minds and are pulling out dishes that are tried and true. Dale is going Asian and making fried rice while Antonia is making a rice salad that she says is pretty popular at family events. Stephanie, who most people think is a leading contender to win it all, still struggles with confidence issues and she’s fighting hard to win at least one immunity challenge. So she comes up with … seafood rice-filled pancakes? Really?

Art and Padma taste the dishes, and several cheftestants basically just used the rice as a bed for their protein to sit on (Richard) although Andrew tried to be creative by encrusting his fish with rice that Art thought was clever but probably needed a few more hours to perfect the technique.

Antonia’s salad actually doesn’t look that bad because she served it with grilled skirt steak. Padma almost chokes on Mark’s miso-glazed turkey breast, which she thought was dried chicken, because it needed sauce or maybe a soft drink.

Art’s bottom picks are Mark, Stephanie (he liked the idea of the pancakes but thought it was heavy and the scallops unnecessary), and Lisa, who made a sloppy dish of food that she says was Southwestern cooking. Lisa looks like she needs a cigarette break because she doesn’t look happy.

The favorites were Richard’s complete meal of tuna steaks and tomatoes over rice, Dale’s pineapple fried rice with scallops, and Antonia’s rice salad, which Art says has a nice cold and hot feel to it (just like her personality). I don’t know if it’s Art’s Southern accent or what but it sounds like he keeps calling her Antoni-O. Anywho, Antoni-A is the winner and gets immunity.

Elimination Challenge. Padma promotes Art’s group called Common Threads, which encourages people to come together through food because families don’t eat together anymore. You know if they could text message dinner to each other, they would. I, for one, am single so I’m always eating with myself. Although sometimes I get so tired of myself that I pretend not to ask myself how my day was. I hate myself when I do that.

Padma tells the group that they have to come up with a simple and nutritious dinner for a family of four on a budget of $10. Is this a family in Uganda? Most cheftestants look shocked, and a bit angry (that’s you Andrew), but Antonia, the single mom, says she does this all the time. So she’s going to “make it work.” Just to add salt to the wound, Padma casually lets them know that they’ll shop for their ingredients at Whole Foods. What? There’s no Costco in Chicago?

Commercials. Ooops, I went to make myself a snack so didn’t pay attention to this early round of commercials. I made myself a snack of sliced avocado ($1.25 at the Temescal farmers’ market) with fresh orange sections ($1 at Safeway) drizzled with Bergamot-infused extra virgin olive oil from O&Co., a sprinkle of sea salt and some croutons. I’d say that cost me a total of $2.50 to $3 for this snack.

The cheftestants arrive at Whole Foods aka Whole Paycheck and they all, naturally, head to the poultry section for some chicken because 1) kids usually will eat chicken, especially chicken tenders, 2) it’s more healthy for you than beef although it’s still an animal product, and 3) they think chicken is cheap, although I think that’s debatable these days. Dale, seeing everyone going for chicken, decides instead to use turkey sausages. (I actually think turkey is healthier than chicken because it’s leaner.)

Andrew interviews about some weird approach of his, something about simple-old-new, or what’s simple is new, or make old simply new? I don’t know, the guy confuses me, even though I still think he’s fun to watch. (Oh, and did you all catch him at the end of the show!? Spicy huh? Don’t all of you skip to the end of this post to find out. You have to read through all this crap first. I know; I’m a tease.)

Now, the budget was $10 for a family of four. But practically I think their budget must be higher because they have to make enough food to feed four people and the four judges. So maybe they have $20? Either way, we’re not privy to the spending because if we were, I think the secret will be out that they really couldn’t have purchased all that food for $10, or even $20. And if they all had to chip in for gas on the way to the market, they’re all screwed.

We see the cheftestants at the checkout like contestants at a game show trying to hit that magic number (which again, we don’t see). I just have to say that cashier at Whole Foods was super friendly and patient. I know my checkout person would never let me stand there ripping off pieces of my bok choy to get it under budget.

Back home, Australian Mark is blowing that long instrument thing they do down under. You know, the one with all the nose snot in it. Antonia in the meantime calls her daughter. Oh. No. Get ready for the waterworks. Her daughter sounds really cute and they tell knock-knock jokes. (BTW Antonia, I didn’t get that joke either.) The editors are really playing up the single mom thing for Antonia this week.

The cheftestants arrive in the kitchen of the Washburne Culinary Institute. As they set up, Padma and Art arrives to welcome them and to lend them some help. In comes a bunch of kids (too small to be teenagers and too big to be called munchkins) in little chef hats. Everybody now: Awwwww. Antonia is already in the back of the group crying her eyes out because she’s thinking of her daughter. She says she better get a boy assigned to her because if she gets a girl, she’ll be thinking of her daughter all the time and will never stop crying. She is a mess. Thankfully, Antonia does get a boy assigned to her so now she can butch it up.

Padma says the kids will be the cheftestants’ sous chefs because the idea is to make meals that are easy for families to cook together. Everyone gets their little slave labor/sous chef and starts cooking. (You know, if Ryan was still around he’d have such fond memories of his childhood cooking in his family’s restaurant. Remember? When he claimed he could cook at age 12 better than the other chefs?)

The cheftestants start cooking with their kids and thankfully … thankfully … they’re all on their best behavior. (The cheftestants, not the kids.) There is no swearing or fights or chairs being thrown around. They’re actually really good with their kids, except Spike who gets the only kid who cuts himself with a vegetable peeler. Spike tells him it’s good luck to cut yourself. I just read that again and it sounded like some really bad teenage afternoon special.

(Can you imagine Spike as a dad? Don’t bother because I’ll draw you a scene:

Spike’s son: “Dad, the dog bit me.”
Spike: “Don’t worry son, it’s good luck.”

Spike’s son: “Dad, I just broke my arm.”
Spike: “Don’t worry son, it’s good luck.”

Spike’s son: “Dad, I got my girlfriend pregnant.”
Spike: “Don’t worry son, it’s good luck.”

Ahhh, Spike. The children are our future. Teach them well and let them lead the way.)

As they’re cooking, we also learn a lot about the cheftestants’ childhood. For example, Nikki was raised by a single parent. Dale wanted to be a basketball player but became a chef when he stopped growing. Andrew was poor and weighed more than 200 pounds in high school so he started cooking for himself to make healthy dishes. Wow, didn’t see that one coming.

Chef Tom Colicchio arrives in the kitchen and he goes around talking to the kids about what they’re making and what they like about cooking. This is one of those episodes where Chef Tom is also a spy in the kitchen. He’ll be staying in the kitchen throughout the judging to see how the kids handle cooking under the cheftestants. He flinches when one kid uses the bottom of a skillet to hammer a chicken breast to flatten it.

Commercials. That Corelle commercial with the fashion show is so unrealistic. First, the models need to be skinnier and second, who eats off plastic plates anyway?

Gail arrives to join Padma and Art at a table. First up is Richard and his roasted chicken with apple-beet salad. The kid has to describe the dish and then go eat what they cook at another table with three other friends. Art says he would have taken the skin off the chicken, while the kids are pleasantly surprised about the beets. (I love beets but never ate them as a kid either.)

We get a parade of other roast chicken dishes, but get a nice break when Spikes comes out with his Pasta Puttanesca. I’m so glad he didn’t tell the story behind the dish to his kid because can you imagine the little guy telling the judges that they made Pasta Puttanesca, which gets its name from prostitutes? Oh the drama. But the kids love it because to them, he made spaghetti. He also made carrot soup and semi-baked apples so Spike really stretched his $10 (if that was really his budget in the first place).

Nikki serves yet another roasted chicken, this time doing the Ina Garten/Jamie Oliver trick of roasting the chicken with the vegetables already in the pan. Nikki claims her mother invented that trick. Art loves the one-pot cooking and the story Nikki told about her single mom (he is such a sucker for the sob story) and Gail thinks it’s a complete dish.

Mark made curry with cinnamon rice and cucumber salad. Padma is amazed he made curry because it’s a risk with kid’s palates. She thinks it was a bit too sweet with the potatoes, and Gail felt it didn’t have enough protein. (Gail, have you never had a vegetarian dish?)

Antonia comes out with her chicken-vegetable stir-fry that also has some noodles mixed in. The judges love it and Padma feels it trumps Spike’s spaghetti dish in flavor.

Andrew made chicken paillard with fennel and apples and the judges don’t really say much about it other than Art thinks kids will like the dish. How many chicken have the judges ate already? I eat a lot of chicken, but even I get tired of it. Sometimes I eat so much chicken (because I can’t think of another protein since I don’t really like red meat) that I think I sweat a chicken smell. Was that TMI? OK, so what chicken dish is next?

Stephanie makes a couscous dish with eggplant, zucchini, chicken and peanut butter sauce. You know, I appreciate how she’s trying to be innovative, but sometimes things don’t go together, like Richard’s chocolate and avocado dish a couple of weeks ago. For this week, it’s Stephanie’s peanut butter sauce with tomatoes.

Art doesn’t like the taste and Padma thinks the couscous wasn’t cooked very well. Gail thinks Stephanie hardly cooks at home and only knows how to make restaurant dishes.

Chef Tom joins the judges’ table and talks about how the kids (and cheftestants) had a lot of fun in the kitchen. Looks like Nikki and Antonia’s dishes are the most popular with Lisa and Stephanie heading to the chopping block. We also find out by listening to Lisa leaving the kitchen that the room where they sit and wait is called the “stew” room. How apropos.

Oh, and Richard wants to make little baby Blaises. What’s with all the off-the-wall comments in this episode?

Commercials. Why are those cavemen still around, and who decided to make them dance? Damn you Geico!

In the “stew” room, the cheftestants talk about how they had so much fun with the kids. That’s so sweet. Then Padma breaks the fun and asks for Andrew, Nikki and Antonia, making everyone else look mad and/or jealous.

Padma, of course, tells the three that they’re on the top. (I just know one of these weeks she’s going to bring in the bottom three first. She just has to because this format is getting so predictable.) Tom says Nikki was smart making everything in one roasting pan. Gail says it was bold to put in Brussels sprouts. Padma says Andrew made fruit accessible in a savory dish, and Gail says kids love the salad and expanded their culinary knowledge.

They say pretty much the same thing for Antonia, who Art names as this week’s winner. (Of course, it sounded more like he said “Antony” is the winner.) I actually thought Spike should have been among the top three because the kids really seemed to be excited about the pasta dish. Anywho, doesn’t matter because Antonia doesn’t get any prize this week from guest judge Art Smith. (What? Not even a guest spot on Oprah?)

Antonia sends in Angry Lisa, Low Self-esteem Stephanie and Australian Mark. Of course, Tom harps on Stephanie’s odd peanut butter and tomato sauce and Art thought the couscous was just “not right.” Stephanie admits that it might have been overcooked.

When Padma asks why Mark thinks he’s in the bottom, he jokes that it’s because Tom doesn’t give him any love. Tom’s all like, “are you jokin’ mate?” Mark says he can’t figure out how to make Tom happy (and I agree because he generally looks stern) and Tom says cook some good food and he’ll be happy. Then Mark gets into it with Gail about protein in a vegetarian dish.

Lisa says she enjoyed her dish and says she even tasted it to make sure it was seasoned. (You know it’s the kiss of death when the judges ask if you tasted your dish before serving it.) Tom says the edamame were undercooked and bland. Lisa says she was just trying to keep to the rules of making a healthy dish.

The judges deliberate and you can tell Art doesn’t like Lisa’s attitude. He thinks chefs should accept constructive criticism. In the “stew” room, Lisa says she knows she’s going home. Tom is surprised by Stephanie because he thought she has been doing well so far. But he can’t get over the judgment of combining peanut butter and tomatoes. Padma says she detested it.

Commercials. Isn’t it funny how they make Kelly Ripa look like the modern housewife cooking for her kids and cleaning the house with those Electrolux appliances? Right.

Judgment time. Tom says there was a common thread in all three dishes, and that’s that they all missed the mark. (That should have been a hint from the get-go.) Stephanie created peanut butter-tomato junk, Mark didn’t spend his money wisely, and Lisa lacked flavor. Tom says he knows it was a fun day with the kids but it has to come to a bitter end (Tom’s a bit chatty in this episode, just hand it off to Padma already.) Padma sends Mark and his weird headband home.

Chatty Tom tells Mark to go screw himself and get off the show. Just kidding. He really tells him that he doesn’t hate him and he hopes to share a beer or pint with him soon. Mark tells the rest of the cheftestants to “rock on rockers” because all people in New Zealand have listened one too many times to Def Leppard.

Next on Top Chef: They’re doing this weird time warp kind of effect where the cheftestants look all tired and moving in slow motion. Cool, are they all on acid? Oh, no. It’s the wedding episode where they have to cater a wedding! Dale looks super fucked.

You think the previews would be the end, but all of a sudden the Top Chef editors throw in a clip of Andrew interviewing, and I quote “I have a culinary boner right now.” What the …? Was he talking about being in the Top 3. Did he just see Rocco Dispirito walk by? What gives? I guess we’ll never know but this weird quote from Andrew is why I think he’s the most fun to watch!

Top Chef airs Wednesday nights at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Check out videos and multiple blogs at the Top Chef Web site. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV.