Saturday, December 20, 2008

Steamed Red Snapper with Yuzu-Soy Sauce

Copyright 2008 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients
1 whole red snapper (or any whole white fish)
Juice and zest from two yuzu (or from the bottle)
1 t sesame oil
1 stalk of green onion, chopped into two-inch parts lengthwise
2 T vegetable oil
2 T light soy sauce
Salt for seasoning fish

Rinse your fish even though your fishmonger gutted it for you. Pat dry and score both sides (take a knife and cut tiny slits along the body). Season with a teaspoon of salt on each side, rubbing in if necessary. Place on a plate and into a steamer or a large covered wok with a stand and water. Steam for 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat and leave covered for another 5 minutes. (You can test that your fish is cooked by getting a fork and seeing if the meat is flakey.)

In a small saucepan, warm yuzu juice, soy sauce, sesame oil and vegetable oil. Plate fish and sprinkle with green onions and yuzu zest. Then drizzle the warm yuzu-soy-oil mixture. Served immediately with steamed rice and sautéed greens.

Makes 2 to 3 servings, depending on the size of your fish.

Pair with a glass of Riesling.

TIP: When shopping for fish, check the eyes to make sure it looks clear and not cloudy. Also, give it a sniff and it should smell like the ocean and not rotting fish.

YUZU: I was able to find a vendor at the farmers’ market selling yuzu, so was able to use fresh juice and zest. But I know it can be hard to find. Yuzu juice is sold in the bottle at Japanese or Asian grocery stores. In a pinch, substitute with lemons or tangerines.

Thursday, December 18, 2008

Top Chef: Season 5, Episode 6

It’s a Top Chef Christmas Miracle

Previously: They throw a bridal shower for Gail and Danny throws shiitake mushrooms into Carla Top’s salad. But that’s not half as bad as the surf-and-turf sushi that went all wrong. The Cougar (Ariane) is the surprised winner again, and Danny and his beard are sent packing.

Cue the dance music. Hey, the first three cheftestants in this montage are gone. Are we half-way there yet?

Opening scenes of the subway and that weird slow pan of the condo building. EU Fabio and Stefan are the new “bromance” of this season, rivaling Andrew and Spike of Season 4. Fabio calls the two of them EU (hey, I already called you that!) but Stefan calls themselves the “dynamic duo,” and Fabio doesn’t understand because he either doesn’t understand Stefan’s accent or he doesn’t want to Robin to Stefan’s Batman. I wouldn’t either.

We get a solemn moment when Hosea calls his sister to check on his dad, who was diagnosed with cancer right before Hosea had to leave to do the show. So I guess the producers were nice enough to let him make that one phone call. (I don’t know what the phone privileges are on this show because they always seem to be using a special phone and not their own personal ones. And we already know they don’t usually have a TV in the apartment. Again, I wouldn’t last on this show for pure isolation reasons.)

We hear the jingle bells as the cheftestants enter the holiday-decorated Top Chef kitchen. Padma is all ho ho ho (I’m not going there). She’s really excited for some reason. For their quickfire challenge, she tells them they have to create a holiday meal that can be made using only one pot. That’s kind of a cool challenge because as the Single Guy, I hate doing dishes.

Since this challenge is focused on making life easier for the home cook (and the Single Guy), Padma introduces the pre-eminent home cook herself, Martha Stewart, who comes in looking all professor like carrying a book (hers, of course). Of course everyone’s stoked. And Leah even calls Martha “bad ass,” although I don’t think you get that honor unless you have tats and wear leather. (That would be the Biker Living Martha Magazine.)

Martha quotes Albert Einstein about keeping things simple but not too simple. Genius! They have 45 minutes and they’re off running.

Most people are planning to cook something and then empty it out and set it aside and then use the same pan to cook another item. I think that’s cheating because it really should be something cooked all at once in one pot because again, as the Single Guy home cook, me no likey having to wash the pan in between cooking. The only guy who really GETS it is Hosea, who makes a paella, and you know I love paella partly because it is a dish you make in one pan and can even bring to the dinner table in said same pan!

Jamie and The Cougar are working near each other and Jamie interviews that she likes The Cougar and having her nearby to taste each other’s food, although she makes a point to say that her cooking style is no way like Cougar’s style. And actually, this group of cheftestants seems like they like having others tasting their food because here’s EU Fabio feeding Stefan his grandma’s polenta recipe. It’s so cute how they like to share.

Commercials. Why do they always have the same commercials for the whole season? I’m bored with them already. How many more weeks until the finale? If I have to watch another Swanson-Xbox-Glad commercial, I’m going to have to stab Stefan in the head like what he did with the watermelon on this episode.

Oh, I’m digging their opening scenes now. There’s the Statue of Liberty and typical Manhattan traffic. (Huh, who knew BRAVO reads my recaps! Ha!) Now Martha and Padma taste the one-pot dishes and here’s how it went:

Eugene’s spicy Korean broth with pork. Martha asks how the broth is thickened and he says with cornstarch (which I actually do often too, I think it’s a Hawaii thing) and Martha walks away saying only “Oh-KAY.”

EU Stefan’s veal Celtic goulash with potatoes and mushrooms. Martha talks about picking chanterelles in the summer.

Hosea’s paella. Martha says she likes the flavors and talks about traveling in Spain and sipping Rioja with a matador.

Melissa’s pork tenderloin with fennel cabbage on top. Martha talks about feeding apples to pigs on her farm.

Jeff the Hair’s potato risotto, with crispy pork and sautéed brussel sprouts. Martha says it’s unusual and pungent and goes on talking about making risotto with Pavarotti. (OK, some of these I made up just because it seems like Martha does like to talk about herself. But some aren’t. You guess which aren’t.)

Jamie’s potato and scallops. Martha says she would fish for big scallops up in Maine.

The Cougar’s cauliflower puree with filet mignon. Martha talks about the fresh butter she churns for herself on the weekends to add to her purees.

Carla Top’s brined turkey breast with apple and dried cherry stuffing. Martha says she once made a turkey in the microwave for her prison cell mate Cheree.

EU Fabio’s roasted mushroom polenta with seared duck breast. Martha just says thank you.

Decision time. Martha says some cheftestants made their dishes too simple. She says she found Jeff the Hair’s potato risotto starchy, didn’t like Eugene’s cornstarch broth and thought EU Fabio’s polenta looked grayish.

She did like Jamie’s scallops, The Cougar’s beef and cauliflower puree and Hosea’s paella, but she eventually chooses The Cougar, and again people seem really surprised despite the fact that she’s won a couple of challenges already. Now I’m wondering how much Jamie still wants to work close to The Cougar since Ariane has narrowly beat Jamie out of winning two challenges in a row.

Martha gives her an autographed copy of her Martha Stewart Cooking School cookbook. They bond for a moment over both being from Jersey. Of course, Ariane has immunity.

For their elimination challenge, Padma says they have to cater a holiday party for AmFAR, which is the American Foundation for AIDS Research (often associated with Elizabeth Taylor but for this episode it’s Natasha Richardson who provides the Hollywood glamour). Next thing you know, a group of colorfully dressed people come in singing and a few cheftestants actually look a bit scared. I think some of them think the choir is going to help them cook. After a few minutes they loosen up and get into the singing from the Harlem Gospel Choir. Carla Top goes crazy for them.

Then the cheftestants draw knives, and when EU Stefan pulls a knife with the number 12, a guy from the choir sings out and startles Stefan. Others pull knives with numbers and we get the theme, they’re cooking for the 12 days of Christmas. I actually like this theme and has always thought about blogging something like that, but then I never get my act together because, really, how can I find time to cook for 12 days straight around Christmas?

But enough about my lazy blogging ass, so the cheftestants have three hours to prep their dishes and then one hour on the day of the party.

Commercials. Who knew Heidi Klum is still modeling for Victoria’s secret? Oh, they do that little Bravo snippet from Top Chef and they have all the cheftestants trying to sing their day of the song. At least this one is related and not some weird romantic tension clip.

The chefs are shopping at Whole Foods at night this time (and I can see a few customers just watching at the checkout counter, how cool would that have been to watch?). Carla Top has two turtle doves and she’s nervous. Some people aren’t really thinking their dishes through and, IMHO, grasping at straws trying to connect their theme with their dishes.

Jeff the Hair would have had a great dish with his frog legs for his 10 Lords a Leapin’, but Whole Foods didn’t have frog legs so he does this sad attempt at two types of cheese from two countries, so the cheeses are “leaping” from one country to another. See what I mean about grasping?

Leah lucked out because she gets the Three French Hens, which is like a giveaway that she’d make something with hens, in this case guinea hens. Another easy one is Radhika’s partridge in a pear tree because to me, partridges are like pigeons or squabs and she could pair it with some kind of pear compote.

The cheftestants head back to the Top Chef kitchen and start prepping. Jamie is doing scallops, again, and making it swim in a vichyssoise for her Seven Swans a Swimmin’. Hosea is smoking his pork tenderloin for another stretching-the-inspiration dish for his 11 Pipers Piping because he’s putting his pork through a smoke pipe? I would have made a dessert where he had to “pipe” in the cream or something. Anywho, Hosea is piping up the whole joint and it’s totally smoking everywhere. I’m surprised the smoke alarm hasn’t gone off.

There are tons of pans everywhere (poor production crew who does the clean up) and the refrigerator is packed. They leave to head home.

The next morning, when they arrive at the Top Chef kitchen, someone realizes that one of the refrigerator was left ajar, so it never got cold and with all the hot food, everything stayed warm. Everyone’s shocked and several temperature-taking minutes later, the food is declared garbage. The brunt of it seems to have affected Hosea and Radhika and Radhika is near tears because she thinks she’ll be going home without any dish to present.

Then a miracle happens. Everyone starts to look around the kitchen and get replacement ingredients for Radhika and Hosea. (Luckily, Radhika left some of her duck part, and just the duck breasts spoiled.) Everyone is pitching in to help the two get their ingredients ready and this team spirit is so nice to see, all we need is a little English orphan boy. You know this would so not happen on “Project Runway” or “Survivor.” And most definitely not on “A Shot at Love with Tila Tequila.”

The cheftestants arrive at the ballroom to finish prepping their stations and food. Of course, since it’s an AIDS fund-raiser, they get Jamie the sole survivor of Team Rainbow to talk about what AmFAR has done and how it’s close to her heart. (Wow, I’m cynical around the holidays.)

The guests start arriving, and more people are singing songs and even more are getting drunk on the cocktails. The judges arrive with Natasha Richardson in holiday red and guest judge Chef Michelle Bernstein of Miami, whom I’ve seen before on Top Chef and she’s always a real cranky judge. This is going to be good.

After a few opening remarks from Richardson, whom Stefan has a crush on, they head off to the tasting tables starting with, oh, Stefan. I’m not going to get into any details because it’s all so cumbersome, but from what I can tell the judges seem to like Radhika’s braised duck, Leah’s guinea hens, Hosea’s smoked pork and Jeff’s salad of cheese.

The low points were Eugene’s ceviche with pineapple rings (he got Five Golden Rings), Fabio’s greasy and dense crab cakes, and Jamie’s warm raw scallops. I have to add that I though Carla Top’s mushroom cap over her braised chicken made to look like the back of the turtle totally is so off base from her Two Turtle Doves. I thought that always referred to a type of dove, so she could have made squab too. Again, a lot of stretching going on.

As you can imagine, there were some really interesting people at this New York function, including Kenneth Cole, who is the most handsome straight male fashion designer around, and Cheyenne Jackson, who is the most handsome gay male actor on Broadway.

But it’s the girls who get Hosea’s attention, as he’s flirting with some floozy with a drink. It’s not just bad that Hosea has a girlfriend back home, but he actually goes to Leah who he supposedly has romantic chemistry with and tells her that he’s been flirting with another girl. Apparently, the flirting helps because the guests vote by pinning their little red ribbons onto the board of their favorite cheftestant. Hosea’s board is pretty red, but not as red as Jeff the Hair, who is doing his own style of flirting.

Back from commercials, Padma arrives in the stew room to get Jeff the Hair, EU Stefan, Hosea and Radhika. They look nervous and I don’t know why since they’re obviously the leaders because they could see how many ribbons they gathered. Plus, Top Chef is so predictable. Wow, it’s another long show (we’re passed the hour mark and it’s still judges’ table). I wonder if they’re making up for taking a bye next week during the real Christmas holiday.

They go through each cheftestant and Natasha Richardson says she’s more a duck leg woman than breast when addressing Radhika’s duck dish. Stefan explains his chicken pot pie was the first thing he ate for Christmas when he arrived in the United States, which is kind of sad to me.

Padma tells Jeff the Hair that he was the crowd favorite and the red ribbon winner, but that’s not enough to win the whole deal because the judges’ opinion still counts. Natasha chooses Hosea as the winner. Guest Judge Michelle Bernstein also has a new book to hawk, so she gives a copy to Hosea. And because he mentions how everyone pitched in to help him when his food went bad, and because Bernstein knows a good marketing ploy when she sees one, she gives a copy of her book to all the cheftestants.

Hosea sends in Melissa, Eugene and Jamie. As they head in for judgment, The Cougar cheers them on, saying “stand up for yourself, fight! Fight! Fight!” Isn’t this a turn of riches for the Cougar? Remember how insecure she was in the first two weeks?

The judges grill the cheftestants, asking about Jamie’s warm raw scallops and Eugene’s overly sweet ceviche with coconut milk. And of course, they both stand up for their dishes saying they thought it would win.

You can tell Jamie is mad because she has her arms folded as usual, and Eugene looks like those guys I would always see at the beach in Honolulu drinking beer and complaining about how the mainlanders are ruining the islands.

For Melissa, the judges just didn’t like the blue cheese in her dish, and Melissa says a lot of people came back for the dish. Bernstein is quick to point out that if a lot of people came back, then why didn’t she get the most red ribbons? Oooh, girl just slapped her into place.

Bernstein also puts Eugene in place telling him that as a chef, he needs to fix his food if others say it doesn’t taste right instead of just being stubborn. I don’t think Eugene’s going to be taking a copy of Bernstein’s cookbook, Cuisine A Latina, now in a bookstore near you.

The judges debate the dishes some more when the three leave, and Chef Tom Colicchio is doing the grumpy bear routine where he says he wishes he could send them all home. In fact, he feels some of the people who weren’t called in could have easily gone home, too. Wow, this may turn out to be a pre-Christmas massacre in Top Chef land.

Sweet Natasha Richardson (c’mon, you know she has to be good to host an AmFAR event) says that it was nice that they all pitched in to help Hosea and Radhika during their mini crisis. And Padma turns to grumpy Tom and says maybe that should be a consideration?

Commercials. None worth talking about. Back to the stew room.

In walks grumpy Tom who sits down and tells the cheftestants that the food weren’t very inspiring. He tells them to step up and cook like they want to win instead of cooking to just not get eliminated. Leah puts her head on the chopping board by speaking up and saying that “no one’s food sucked.” Yeah, good argument Leah. Go for the “at least we didn’t suck” position. Chef Tom singles out The Cougar, who was getting overly confident but now is told by Tom that making deviled eggs is not going to make you Top Chef.

And then just when everyone thought this was going to be the longest elimination in Top Chef history, Tom announces that no one will go home tonight because it’s the “holidays” and this is a gift from the judges to them.

Everyone is relieved and Radhika is near tears, although Eugene still looks pissed. And LOOK! He is drinking a beer. All he needs is the beach and a palm tree and he could be my rough cousin that always beat up on me.

Next: (FYI, the show will not be on next week and instead a Top Chef Christmas special will air with returning favorites competing with holiday dishes. When the actual show returns, this is what will be next:) Tom wakes people up, it’s a free-for-all challenge, Jamie is cooking scallops again, and the substitute judge for Gail look scary.

“Top Chef: New York” airs every Wednesday at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV’s Web site.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008

Dragon Fruit Lands in the Bay Area

This weekend I was shopping over on Clement Street in San Francisco's Richmond District, and made a stop at my regular favorite Asian grocer New May Wah Supermarket. I can always count on finding something interesting in their boxes of fruits and vegetables lining the front entrance on the sidewalk. This is the dragon fruit, which comes from places with tropical weather and mostly from Southeast Asia. I saw it for the first time in Vietnam. The fruit inside is just as interesting, with a gray-white meat with black specks. The texture of the meat inside reminds me a lot of a kiwi. I can't say it's my favorite tropical fruit, but it definitely has the nicest color. It was selling for $5.99 a pound. Won't it look pretty hanging from a Christmas tree?

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Dish on Dining: Mua

New Club Vibe on Auto Row
2442A Webster St. (near Broadway), Oakland
Uptown neighborhood
PH: 510.238.1100
Open Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m. and 4:30 p.m. to late; Sat. and Sun., 5 p.m. to late
Major credit cards, reservations accepted
http://www.muaoakland.com/


With the current economy putting pressure on car dealerships, the landscape along Oakland’s Auto Row on Broadway is sure to change as a few showrooms are emptying out. If you’re feeling the effects of the downturn, maybe you should drown your sorrows with a drink at Mua, a new restaurant and club built in what looks like a former mechanic’s garage.

Opened in mid-October, this huge warehouse-like space is becoming the latest hotspot in an area that has only been home to Luka’s Taproom for years. Paired with the recent opening of Ozumo, there are more places for night revelers visiting the nearby Paramount Theatre or traipsing through the art studios during the First Friday Art Walks.

My initial taste of Mua was for lunch, because I really wanted to check out the food first. So last week I met my friend Valerie and we entered the nearly empty dining space. The fact that the space is so huge just accentuates the small crowd. (Mua only started offering lunch recently, so it still hasn’t caught on as a lunch spot.)

The spot is a mix of eclectic street art with Asian touches, and that’s also reflected in the limited menu, which has a lot of basic comfort food like hamburgers and fish mixed in with Asian touches like Korean kim chee.

Valerie and I started by sharing the Endive Salad ($7), which came beautiful tossed with fennel, radicchio, almond slices and persimmons. A few specks of pomegranate seeds finished off the festive-looking dish.

The salad was light and crunchy, a really bright and cheery start to lunch. I really enjoyed the persimmon slices, which seem to have cured in the light dressing so that it was soft and smooth and not at all mealy the way persimmons can sometimes be.

For our entrees, Valerie got the special sandwich of the day made with pulled pork and served with French fries ($10). The meat was very tender and the bun was nicely toasted, but it lacked any strong flavors. It was more texture than taste.

The same could be said about my Lamb Tagine ($16), which came in this beautiful blue-glazed bowl. The tender chunks of lamb meat sat on a bed of couscous. While very tender, it lacked any distinctive flavor. Only near the end did I get a slight lamb taste, but there were no spices to conjure up the sense of Morocco, which is often associated with the tagine. (The tagine is a cooking vehicle that looks almost like a pot with a huge teepee-like lid, and it’s often used in North Africa to braise meats.)

A few days later, I returned to Mua to check out the Friday night scene with my friend Joe. The bar was crowded with a mix of people who were drinking and watching the flat screens. The dining area wasn’t very crowded, but then again it was after 10 p.m. and it really is a huge space.

I started with one of their specialty drinks. It was a lemonade ($10) made with yuzu-infused vodka and grapefruit juice. It was pretty but nothing special. Joe skipped the drinks because he ordered from the dessert menu the Adult Float ($7) made with double chocolate stout and a scoop of caramel ice cream. It was an interesting idea to use beer to make a float, but I wasn’t sure if the flavors of the ice cream and the stout really complemented each other. Both tasted fine by itself (Joe really enjoyed the caramel ice cream), but together it seemed an odd pairing.

I also ordered the Lamb Cheeks ($9) off the dinner menu, which was pretty much identical to lunch. The lamb cheeks were tender but—again—lacked any major flavors. It wasn’t bland, but it wasn’t tantalizing in my mouth. It’s like it just sat there wondering what to do (not that lamb cheeks really do much).

During my lunch with Valerie, the waitress we had was very friendly and helpful. I really thought she was great. But at the bar, the bartenders were perfunctory, talking to you only to get your order and nothing more. That seemed odd for a bar when you expect people to chat, especially a new place that needs some talking up. Several times a bartender worked right in front of me creating drinks and not once did he look up at me to smile or ask how I was doing. It really made the space seem cold, just like the vast warehouse environment.

Mua seems like a welcomed addition for the neighborhood, creating more of a night life for Oakland. The vibe and space are very attractive and engaging. But the food falls short, delivering in presentation but lacking in flavor. If the chef can add more complex flavors (or really any flavor) to his dishes, then the food will live up to the overall club vibe.

Single guy rating: 2.75 stars (Funky but Flavorless)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

Mua on Urbanspoon

Sunday, December 14, 2008

Holiday Chocolate-making with Friends

’Twas a month before Christmas, and an invitation did come
From my co-worker April, with promise of fun;

It’s a day of chocolate-making for gifts or yourself,

Our co-worker Rhonda could be another elf.


So we spent an entire Saturday at her SOMA loft,

Making caramel with lavender that was pillowy soft.

There were espresso-infused truffles and apricots galore,

Which were made into chocolate barks with nuts and a lot more.


Out in the living area there was a whole lot of chatter
From her two interesting parrots who really did matter.

“Who’s the prettiest bird?” could often be heard;
While Rhonda’s husband read quietly saying hardly a word.


Jason and John came later to help
And we ordered pizza for lunch without using
Yelp.
My wondering eyes enjoyed the silky dark candy,

And my Canon digital SLR sure came in handy.


I captured hundreds of photos to remember the day
So I could blog about chocolates made the personal way.

More rapid than eagles I quickly uploaded

The images to my laptop, then a horror unfolded;


“Damn it! Damn it! How can this be?!”

The card said ZERO, there was nothing to see!
Call it a fluke, but all my images were zapped;

So was my spirit, I felt like a sap.

All I had were the candy, all finished and nice
I took photos of them and said they’d suffice;
Because in the end, no matter the pain

I had memories of fun and friends that I gained.


So thanks to April for the generous invite
And Merry Christmas to all, and to all a good-night!


If it wasn’t clear from the above, the digital memory card gremlin cleared all the images from my memory card while I tried to upload my images of my day of chocolate making. At least it wasn’t photos of my Buenos Aires trip or of a honeymoon!

My co-worker April has been making chocolates for fun for years, and during the holidays she makes them as gifts, which is a great idea now with the economy the way it is. One of the chocolates we made was this incredible lavender-infused caramel covered with dark chocolate and sprinkled with fleur de sel. She adapted a recipe from Michael Recchiuti’s cookbook, “Chocolate Obsession.” It’s so good, I plan to make it again (and maybe then I can show you photos of the process). Or you can try to make them yourself. It’s actually pretty easy. I’ve reprinted the recipe below with the addition of the lavender (which actually came from our co-worker Rhonda’s garden).

Lavender-inflused Fleur de Sel Caramels
Adapted from Michael Recchiuti’s “Chocolate Obsession”

About 50 pieces

Ingredients
Flavorless vegetable oil for the pan
1.5 cups (10.5 oz.) granulated cane sugar
1/2 Tahitian vanilla bean, split horizontally
1 cup (8 oz.) heavy whipping cream
2 T (1.5 oz. by weight) light corn syrup
1 T (1.5 oz.) unsalted butter with 82% butter fat, chilled
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel in fine grains
Tempered 61-70% chocolate for dipping*
Fleur de sel in fine grains for finishing
1 T lavender flowers for cooking

Making the caramels

Bring heavy cream in a small pot to a boil over medium low heat and then remove from heat. Add lavender and let seep for about two hours.

Line the bottom of an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper. Lightly coat the paper and the sides of the pan with flavorless vegetable oil.

Put the sugar in a medium heavy-bottomed pot. Use a copper pot if you have one. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the pot. Place over medium heat and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the sugar melts. (This may take awhile.) When all the sugar is melted, then continue to cook without stirring until the sugar turns dark and amber, about 5-6 minutes.

When the sugar is the correct shade, stir in the corn syrup. Remove the pot from the heat and put a sieve or splatter guard over the pot. Reheat the heavy cream mixture if necessary. Wearing an oven mitt, slowly pour the hot cream into the sugar syrup a little at a time. The mixture will splutter and foam.

When the bubbling subsides, return the pan to medium heat and cook undisturbed until the mixture registers 252 degrees F on a candy thermometer (about 5 minutes). Remove from the heat, and stir with the wooden spoon. Add the salt and stir until evenly distributed.

Pour the caramel into papered pan and let cool at room temperature.

Assembling the caramels

Invert pan and peel off parchment paper. Cut into sticks one inch wide with a slightly oiled knife. Then cut into 1-inch squares.

* Temper chocolate by melting about 1 pound of dark or semi-sweet chocolate in a double boiler or microwave until chocolate reaches 100 degrees (use a digital thermometer to test the temperature). Stir chocolate to cool it to about mid-90s. Throw in a few pieces of hard chocolate and continue stirring. When temperature of chocolate dips to 86 degrees, then start dipping in caramel squares to coat. If chocolate starts to seem thick, you may need to warm it up again to temper the chocolate. (Coating works best when temperature stays around 86 degrees.) Lay coated caramels on parchment paper, and sprinkle some fleur de sel on top. Then allow to cool to set.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Dish on Dining: Shan Dong

What’s All the Fuss Oakland Lunchers?
528 10th St. (near Webster), Oakland
Chinatown
PH: 510.839.2299
Open Tues.–Sun., 10 a.m.–9:30 p.m. (till 10 p.m. on Fri. and Sat.)
Major credit cards accepted (reservations for large groups)
Web site


In the United States, Chinese cuisine is primarily influenced by Cantonese dishes from Guandong Province in Southern China (where many early immigrants came from) and Hong Kong (where high-end culinary chops are tested).

But sometimes I crave the food from the north, often characterized by tender meats, dumplings and hot spices to warm your insides in the face of the brutal cold weather. I had the cravings recently with the change in seasons, and finally went to check out Shan Dong Mandarin Restaurant, the often-mentioned place for good northern Chinese cuisine.

This tiny restaurant in Oakland’s Chinatown gets a lot of raves for its dumplings, which you can sometimes see them make at the front along with the hand-pulled noodles. Since it’s in Chinatown, it also makes it another lunch option for me during the work week.

When I first arrived, the restaurant was already packed with office workers. I noticed there were several large tables filled with workers who apparently like to come here and eat together. (Hmm, my office never goes out to lunch in such a large group unless someone’s quitting.) The décor is that of your typical hole-in-the-wall Chinese restaurant with mirrored walls, old Chinese paintings and colorful paper with Chinese calligraphy.

I was seated in one of the small tables and asked to share with an older gentleman. This is the Chinese version of the communal table trend except it wasn’t planned that way but created out of necessity. I got off on the wrong foot with my tablemate because I smiled at him politely and then proceeded to pour myself a cup of tea. But I accidentally picked up his cup (which was empty BTW). He tried to wrestle it back from me, which I thought was odd since he wasn’t using it, and then I discovered my cup off near the wall.

After that mini skirmish, I ordered a plate of the Special Shan Dong Dumplings ($6.95) made with pork and vegetables. You get a plate of 10 huge dumplings that is definitely enough for a meal.

First off, I was really put off by the appearance of the dumplings. They really looked dumpy. I guess one might think of it as home-made or “rustic,” but it really looked poorly made to me. The skin was thick and kind of mealy in texture, and the inside was your basic chopped pork and vegetable filling with nothing exceptional in taste. I was really disappointed to know that people considered this the best dumplings in town because I’ve enjoyed better at dim sum restaurants like Koi Palace in Daly City.

Side note: For lunch, everyone is always given a complementary bowl of Hot and Sour Soup, which is the most common dish associated with Northern Chinese cuisine. Shan Dong’s version wasn’t necessarily really spicy. So the soup is fairly mild and balanced, which suited my tastes.

Stuffed with the dumpy dumplings, it took a couple of weeks before I decided to give Shan Dong another try. Again, I arrived to a nearly packed restaurant (again filled with office workers) and was seated at a round table that I shared with a guy who was reporting for jury duty at the nearby courthouse.

This time I ordered the Mandarin Beef Soup Noodles ($6.95), and added $1 for the hand-pulled noodles. I love beef noodle soup from the north because of the richness of the broth and the tender beef flavored with star anise.

The bowl came out looking very common and not at all Northern. It was spotted with western broccoli, button mushrooms and zucchini. Most Northern-style dishes have preserved vegetables often diced thinly, adding to the exotic flavors. To me, I could have made the same thing at home.

The beef pieces were the only redeeming ingredient. They were tender and very tasty, with the distinctive mix of Northern spices that are hearty and warm. The hand-pulled noodles, however, were another disappointment, just like the dumplings.

The noodles were clumpy and short, looking very amateurish. Northern-style noodles are often thick like Japanese udon, and I often thought of them as worms eating them growing up. While Shan Dong’s noodles were thick, they had a starchy taste and just didn’t look at all like noodles. They just looked like poorly made pasta.

For the price and having to deal with waits, I just couldn’t imagine coming back for a third try. I don’t really understand all these office workers who come here for lunch when there are so many other better tasting Asian restaurants in the area. Sure, they have the big round tables but I get a sense that Shan Dong has past its prime, if it ever had one.

Single guy rating: 1.75 stars (Dumpy starched dishes)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Shan Dong on Urbanspoon

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Top Chef: Season 5, Episode 5

Till Danny Do Us Part

Previously: They cook for live TV, but not really because only their food makes it to the Today Show. Melissa burns everyone’s mouth, and Alex is sent packing so he can finish that crème brulee.

Opening scenes of the approach to Grand Central Station and a weird pan shot moving up along the cheftestants’ condo building. Another shot of Jeff the Hair shirtless. You can do a drinking game of every time Jeff runs his hand through his hair or is seen shirtless.

Elsewhere, Melissa is thinking about being smart. The Cougar (Ariane) is getting cocky. And Jamie has a weird stuff animal that Stefan gave her. Apparently EU Stefan has a crush on Jamie because, you know, in Europe they swing both ways.

The cheftestants arrive at the Top Chef kitchen and Padma is there by herself in pigtails. There’s no guest judge this time because they’re doing the tasting test. But instead of tasting secret ingredients, they have to taste a secret sauce and guess what’s in it.

They make the cheftestants pull knives with numbers, and they’re paired up so two will go head-to-head, and, of course, Stefan is paired with Jamie (wink from the editors). He is just drawn to her lesbian scent!

They enter for the sauce tasting and it’s like some World of Poker face-off where they each have to give a number of how many ingredients they have to guess and then the other person has to go higher, or else “call” the other person to do the naming.

First up is a shrimp and lobster bouillabaisse, then a Thai green curry, and finally a Mexican mole sauce, which I never make simply because of all the many many ingredients that go into it. The cheftestants come and go, until in the end it came down to Carla, EU Stefan and Hosea, using a spelling bee format taking turns naming ingredients.

Carla gets cut first on her first guess of peanut butter. Then Stefan gets cut by guessing tomato paste. Hosea wins immunity by naming vegetable oil. And now we know one-tenth of the ingredients in mole.

For the elimination challenge, the cheftestants draw knives again with words that says “old,” “new,” “borrowed” and “blue.” Get where this is going? So did the other cheftestants. They knew either a wedding or something to do with a bride is coming up. Ugh, I hate weddings. Oh, Radhika just says she doesn’t want to be on Stefan’s team and she’d rather be on Satan’s team. Too bad Satan’s not on this season, because then maybe there’d be more drama.

Padma says they’re working in teams to help her throw a bridal shower for one of her girlfriends, and in comes Gail with some wind machine blowing because she’s just breezing in. Daniel is all pumped because I’m pretty sure he has the hots for Gail, and all the other women on the show, I’m sure.

Gail says most of her friends will be from Food and Wine magazine, and that she doesn’t like veal or black beans. Huh, I wonder how often she’s had that combo? Daniel can’t stop smiling listening to Gail.

The teams break away and start to plan their meals following the themes. On Team Borrowed, Jamie uses the idea of borrowing the cuisine of Radhika’s Indian culture. This, of course, prompts Radhika to go into a whole discussion of how she doesn’t want to be known as the Indian spice queen. Radhika really is worried about being seen as an Indian chef but she always ends up using Indian ingredients. Oy.

In the Something New Team, Daniel, Carla Top (that’s my nickname for her because she reminds me of carrot top with her hair), and Eugene are throwing out ideas, well, mostly Daniel who for some reason thinks he knows Gail really well and tells the rest of the team that she loves pickled foods. Eugene suggests a surf-and-turf sushi and Carla Top is really just letting the boys do their thing.

Commercials. Wal-mart’s Christmas commercial is soooo blue. And something about the Bluefly commercial and that naked girl at the holiday table is just not right. I mean, really, food and naked flesh? Dat don't mix.

The cheftestants are back at Whole Foods to shop for their ingredients. Fabio is smelling fish. Danny is tasting ice cream. Carla goes around saying “hootie-hoo.” We learn this is the way she calls her husband when they’re looking for each other at the grocery store. And apparently because this is the wedding episode, we get old family photos of the cheftestants and their spouses like Carla Top and her husband, Mr. Carla Top.

After some bossing around by EU Stefan in the tomato section, they head back to the kitchen for some prepping. There’s a lot of running around as usual and Jamie is using some secret ingredient she brought with her called vadouvan. Never heard of it.

We learn Eugene’s wife didn’t have a bridal shower because they just went to the courthouse. (More family photos.) We also learn that his sushi rice is too mushy because he’s not used to the digital rice cooker used to cook the rice.

In comes Chef Tom Colicchio to check on the cheftestants, visiting the Blue Team first. He tells them there are no blue food in the natural world, not even blueberries, which he says is purple (although I’ve seen some really blue looking blueberries).

When visiting Team New and their sushi, Chef Tom looks a bit skeptical. When visiting Team Old, we learn that Stefan was married twice, to the same woman! But now they’re divorced, and despite Tom’s prodding, Stefan doesn’t plan to make it three because he knows the three-strikes rule.

Outside, Tom gives a rundown and says this is personal because the cooking is for Gail, who will assemble a real foodie crowd. He thinks the Blue Team is stretching it with their interpretation of blue, and instead he thinks it’s boring. The New Team has too many components and it can be great or totally bomb, he says.

Back at the homestead, Eugene and his team are on the balcony smoking and he gets an inspiration to serve their surf-and-turf sushi deconstructed. So that means the girls get to make their own sushi, picking the ingredients they want to use. EU Stefan is nearby and tells Eugene that that’s a stupid idea because women don’t like to make their own food. Eugene tells him to fuck off and take care of his own cooking.

BTW, this is like the EU Stefan episode. Even the dumb text message question of the week is about him. They want to know whether Stefan is a bully. Um, what do you think? Duh.

Commercials. Who knew Victoria’s Secret sells robes and Pjs?

We get one of those weird short clips and I’m starting to think maybe these are scenes from the current episode, so why don’t they just show it during the regular episode instead of these commercial-like scenes? Anywho, since this is Stefan’s episode, it’s a scene of him in bed with Jamie. It’s not what you think because Carla Top is there with them. Stefan keeps trying to get Jamie to kiss him. I don’t think this will end pretty.

Back to the “real” show, they’re still at the condo and they’re featuring the other running romance of Leah and Hosea. They playing cards, and Leah says Hosea is her favorite. I can see why, he’s very cuddly I bet. Still, Hosea says they both have significant others back home, so really they’re just “friends.” Yeah, friends go around writing I (heart) H on women’s ankles.

The cheftestants head to Twenty Four Fifth, one of those exclusive Manhattan restaurants that’s so fancy they didn’t even bother thinking of a name.

The women arrive for the party and there are baggies for giveaways. I didn’t realize there’s so much swag working at Food and Wine. In a toast from Padma, we find out that Gail’s husband-to-be is named Jeremy. But that’s all we know. Tom tried to crash the party, but there’s no way that’ll happen so he’s stuck in the kitchen watching the cheftestants. Fabio feels nervous with Chef Tom watching them and calls him The Pope. Hey, for an Italian that’s serious.

EU Stefan is pissing all over his teammate Jeff the Hair’s sorbet. He doesn’t think it’s a good idea as a starter. Hosea, on the other hand, has the shakes as he brings out a plate. I mean, really, you can actually hear the glass clicking against the plate because he’s shaking so much.

In the crowd of women is this week’s guest judge, Dana Cowin, the editor-in-chief of Food and Wine magazine. I recognize her because I see her picture in the letter from the editor in my Food and Wine magazine that comes every month, and she’s always writing about what part of the world she’s eating from this month. Nice gig if you can get it.

Team Old used heirloom tomatoes, and everyone ironically loves Jeff the Hair’s tomato sorbet while others think the terrine by EU Stefan is kind of bland. No one says anything about Hosea’s tomato gazpacho.

Team Something New is next and in the kitchen Daniel decides to soak some shiitake mushrooms and throw them under the Carla Top’s salad, without consulting her. Hosea, watching from the sidelines, says there’s a lot happening on their plate.

When the present, Daniel is all excited saying the food will be so great the women will be taking off their clothes. Danny, that doesn’t happen until the stripper arrives.

They present their plate with tempura shrimp, beef skewers in peach-miso BBQ sauce, Carla Top’s salad and a yuzu sorbet that’s a palate cleanser. But Eugene forgets to tell them they have the option of creating their own sushi, so people are confused about how to eat and Dana Cowin doesn’t think it’s sushi so wonders what’s new?

For the Borrowed Team, they’re preparing their dish and that carrot puree is soooo yellow it looks like Playdoh. The Cougar is in charge of cooking the lamb and they’re up against the clock and it’s still rare. So when it’s finally ready to plate, all the cheftestants help the team out to plate. I thought that was actually really sweet of everybody because it shows how they’re competitors but they’re still friends. Awww.

When they serve the plate, everyone’s raving about how well the lamb is cooked, especially Dana who must have eaten bad lamb before because she says she’s so happy to have good lamb. Gail is really happy with this dish as well.

Next is the Blue Team and for some reason Melissa says they’ll rip her a new one if she doesn’t like the food. You know, I really don’t like that expression. It’s crude and always brings up a really bad imagery. But fair warning, this expression rears itself later in the episode.

They get Fabio the charmer to present and of course you have a handsome Italian with an accent before a group of women, smart move. He tries to convince them that their dish is blue with the ocean theme and they choose a Chilean sea bass, and that the green vegetables mixed with the yellow sweet corn puree are the components to create the color blue. They’re really stretching, yeah?

The women think the food is boring, and Gail is right when she points out that Chilean sea bass is a politically incorrect choice because of the over-fishing. One other woman thinks the dish taste like “old people” food, which I didn’t get at the time and now realize it means everything had a soft pureed texture to make it easy for old people to eat without their dentures.

Gail’s all happy from her party, and can’t wait to get married. I bet next season she’ll be pregnant and they have to do a baby shower.

The cheftestants arrive at the stew room and Padma comes in to get the Old Team and Borrowed Team members.

At the judges’ table, Padma tells them they were the favorites and hugs all around. Tom says he thought Jeff the Hair’s tomato sorbet was fabulous (oh, maybe he didn’t use that word and it was Gail?) and of course they do a close-up shot of Stefan who looks disgusted or jealous or both.

Gail says she liked Jamie’s spices in the carrot puree. Jamie says they were going for big flavors but subtle. Gail thought the lamb was cooked perfectly, and Dana Cowin adds that it had a lovely lingering taste. So you know she’s still eating a wee bit of it in her mouth. Right this moment. As she’s talking.

Dana chooses the winner saying it’s the person who made the most flavorful component, and I’m thinking Jeff the Hair and Jamie’s thinking Jamie, but it’s the Cougar who wins for making the lamb. I’m kind of shocked because really how do you affect the taste of lamb other than salt and pepper? I don’t think Ariane did anything else to it? I think that was a weird choice and I would have gone with Jeff the Hair.

Jamie, of course, says she’s always a bridesmaid. And not just because of losing out but because of dang Prop. 8 in California where she’s from. (Down with H8).

The other team goes in to face the judges and they talk about how they didn’t know how to eat the sushi and Padma calls out Eugene for making mushy sushi rice. They ask Carla Top how the mushrooms got into her salad, and Danny says it was his brilliant idea. Chef Tom asks Danny if he thought the plate was good and he, of course, says yes and Chef Tom can’t talk about it any more because he’s so disappointed at the thought of Danny’s palate. You can tell he’s a goner (Danny, not Tom).

For Team Blue, they repeat their comments about the food being nursing home food, and Tom says Team Blue’s food gave him the blues.

When the cheftestants head back to the stew room, Eugene says he’ll pull down his pants so everyone can see how the judges ripped him a new one. See, I told you someone would bring this up again, and this episode has gone down the toilet.

The judges deliberate and they use some pretty harsh words like “indefensible” and “catastrophic.” Yes, but what did you think about the food?

Commercials. I want that Calphalon movable grill pan and I want that guy to deliver it me. ;-)

Shocker: 73 percent says Stefan is way overbearing. Double duh.

Judgment time. Hey, why is this show so long today? It’s more than an hour. Why no warning guys? I’m so tired. Anywho, Tom says it was personal because it was for their girl Gail. Team Blue is boring. They’re excused. Team New, dishes go wrong in execution and conception. What’s up with Danny’s messed up beard? It’s like Tre came down in the middle of the night with an electric shaver to shave his beard in that weird way. See how boring this episode is that I’m obsessing with Daniel’s beard? Padma sends Daniel and his weird beard packing.

Daniel says he would have been there longer if he had thrown people under the bus. Melissa gets him to do this weird cartoon face shaking, which I’ve never seen him do in the show before. Maybe if he did that for the judges they would have kept him longer just for a laugh. He says something about football and that just loses me, so BUH-bye.

Next: In comes Martha Stewart looking like a professor with her book, and something goes really bad in the refrigerator so it looks like they’re cooking with garbage. And Christmas comes early for Top Chef land.

“Top Chef: New York” airs every Wednesday at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV’s Web site.