Ever since I watched “An Inconvenient Truth,” I’ve tried to be diligent about reducing my carbon footprints. (BTW, I would so love to have lunch with Al Gore just to see what he eats!) So today being Earth Day, I think it’s a good time to remind everyone about the little things we can do every day to help our planet. I’m focusing on things related to food or the kitchen:
Re-bag it. In the Bay Area, I’m seeing more people carrying reusable cloth bags. Yay! This is the best way to go shopping. My tip: Buy more than one bag so that you’ll always have one in your car when you go shopping. Sometimes you bring your groceries into the house and then forget to bring the bag back out to the car. So buy a few extras to keep in your car or near your door to make it easy to grab on your way out. If you’re a Bay Area resident, the San Francisco Ferry Building is passing out free reusable bags on the South Side of the building today (4/22) while supplies last or until 2 p.m.
Dispose of the garbage disposal. My garbage disposal in my apartment konked out last year. But instead of replacing it, I paid $200 for a plumber to come and remove the relic. I feel it’s money well spent. I read somewhere that people end up using more energy standing there with the power switch on churning away at waste that can easily be thrown into a compost station in their backyards. Even if you don’t have a compost station, throwing away the waste that eventually decomposes in landfills is a better option than wasting energy used to churn it up.
Shop local. This is the mantra of the Bay Area and sustainable food lovers. By buying locally produced products, you’re not contributing to companies that consume tons of gasoline each year to transport goods to the consumers. So spend more of your money at farmers markets where local farmers aren’t bringing goods across the country to you. Luckily in the Bay Area, there are tons of farmers markets to choose from. (Check out this list from the San Francisco Chronicle.)
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
It’s Easy Being Green
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Sunday, April 20, 2008
Baseball + A Couple of Dogs
It's baseball season, so you know I now have to squeeze in my food adventures with watching baseball games. And when the weather's nice, it's hard to resist the temptation to just hangout watching a game as opposed to cooking in the kitchen. Sorry, but I be honest.
This weekend I went to an Oakland Athletics' game against the visiting Kansas City Royals. The Oakland team is my hometown team, but I still favor the San Francisco Giants across the bay. (And if you wonder why, it's because Oakland is in the same league as my ultimate favorite team, the New York Yankees, so you know I can't root for the A's.) I haven't been to a Giants game yet, but it's pretty easy to on a whim decide to go to an Oakland A's game. That's what I did on Saturday.
While it's easy getting great seats at the A's game, I have a hard time deciding what to eat. I feel like there are fewer options at McAfee Stadium than at AT&T Park in San Francisco. My friend David says Oakland has the "real baseball fan" food, so that's what I got.
The first thing I ate was the Big Chili Cheese Dog ($7.50). You can see it above, and yes, it was really big. The hot dog portion was a bit squishy and salty (which I kind of liked) and there was a big bun that I used to sop up the chili beans and sauce. It was actually pretty satisfying, but I didn't really get the cheese on top. It was real processed cheese and made it taste like I was eating nachos.
At about the 5th inning when the Athletics' starting pitcher was struggling against the Royals, I went to distract myself with a corn dog ($3.50). I know, I never eat fried foods but somehow the idea of a corn dog was appetizing at that moment. Corn dogs are the most oddest looking food; it's like a pistol or something. But I'm a big fan of cornmeal. This particular corn dog at the stadium was a bit chewy. The hot dog portion was squishy again. Somehow all the hot dogs in Oakland are soft and squishy with salt. It tasted good after I lathered it with ketchup.
I think for future games I may just bring in a Vietnamese sandwich from Oakland's Chinatown instead of buying something at the stadium. Unless any of you have any suggestions of something I may be missing? But I really didn't find many things tempting.
The food may not be great, but with the small crowds at the Oakland games, you really get some of the best seats in town. Look at these photos I shot from my field level seat on the first base side. I could have caught a few foul balls if I didn't have a camera in my hand. The nice weather was made better by the fact that the Athletics swept the Royals this weekend. It's no skin off my back, but at least the people around me were happy. I don't necessarily want to get an A's fan angry. ;-)


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Saturday, April 19, 2008
Dish on Dining: Gaboja Sojubang (closed)
Home-made Korean Dishes in a Lounge
UPDATED ON 7/22/08: The restaurant was left abandoned and after several weeks a sign was put up looking for a new tenant.
347 14th St. (at Webster), Oakland
Downtown/Chinatown
PH: 510.272.0046
Major credit cards accepted
Open Monday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 1 p.m.
You can feel intimidated standing outside of Gaboja Sojubang, a Korean restaurant just east of Oakland’s Chinatown. The photos of the dishes look good in the window, but everything is written in Korean. I got the same twinge of fear I get at restaurants in a foreign country where I feel like it’ll be a big production of sign language just to get a meal.
But I’ve walked past Gaboja Sojubang often from my office on my way to Chinatown for lunch—even before when it was known as Core Lounge and was more of a karaoke bar. I don’t know what the dishes are on the sign outside, but the prices looked interesting for lunch (about $3.99 to $5.99). Plus, there were always a few Koreans eating inside, so it couldn’t be that bad, right?
I finally got the nerve to go in for lunch a few weeks ago and it was pretty packed with a mixed crowd of diners. I waited a bit until a kind-looking old gentleman motioned me to one of the tables. I sat down and waited, and waited some more, as I watch this young guy running from table to table but never looking in my direction. He was the only server and looked like the son of the owners.
The room had a big screen television, which was off when I was there but I don’t know if it comes on for dinner or maybe for some late-night karaoke. At a couple of tables, people were eating big pots of food in soup that were being cooked at their table.
I finally got up and picked up my own menu from the front. The menu, luckily, had English subtitles to explain the dishes. It was a nice mix of appetizers, traditional meat dishes, casseroles and soups. But I was disappointed to see that most of the dishes were more than $8. Apparently, the $3.99 and $5.99 prices advertised in the sign outside were for the vegetarian side dishes.
When I was finally able to get the attention of the young guy, I ordered the Ojingo Dupbob or Squid with Vegetables over Rice ($7.99). Then he brought over the panchan, which are little plates of side dishes served before virtually every Korean meal. I admired the dishware they came in, and was pleased that the panchan seemed fresh and of decent quality.
During this visit, the panchan included the traditional Napa cabbage kim chi, black beans, dried tiny fish, and pickled preserved vegetables.
The poor service was made up for by the quick turnaround for my order. It seemed like my Ojingo Dupbob came in less than five minutes. The plate looked beautiful, with this rich, juicy-looking sauce mixed in the stir-fry with a nice mound of steamed rice on the side. (So technically it wasn’t “over” rice.) The plate looked so lovely that a table next to me pointed at my order and told the waiter, “I’ll have an order of what he’s having.” (I really am a trend-setter. Remember when that happened to me at Coi?)
But once I started eating the dish, I realized why it came so quickly. The red paste, which is the traditional sweet-spicy paste used in many Korean dishes, was barely blended through with the ingredients. It was as if it hardly had time to warm up. The squid pieces were nice and tender, but they were buried in a pile of onion and scallions. As for other vegetables in the mix, there were maybe two or three pieces of broccoli and I think two or three button mushroom slices.
I felt cheated by false advertising (it really should be called Squid and Onions with Rice), just like how I felt I was misled by the sign outside advertising cheap prices only to find out it wasn’t for any of their main dishes.
I waited for nearly 10 minutes after I finished eating to see if the young guy would come over and ask if I needed anything else or if he could bring my check. But after watching him walk by me a few times without looking at me, I got up and paid up front and left.
Despite my unsatisfying lunch, primarily marred by the neglectful service, I decided to return because maybe it was a fluke? Also, I was really tempted by those pots of soup cooking at the tables.
So this week I returned with my friend Jeanne because I could never eat all that food in the pot by myself. It really is an order that’s more fun to share.
Jeanne and I arrived a few minutes before noon and Gaboja Sojubang didn’t seem to be as crowded. In fact, I think there were only two other tables with guests. So we were seated promptly and menus were brought by the server right away. (I’m pretty sure it was the same young guy.)
We ordered the Boolnag Jungol or Beef and Octopus Casserole ($23.99), which is probably one of the more common Korean dishes next to bulgogi and bi bim bap. You also have the option of adding noodles so we ordered our Boolnag Jungol with ramen noodles for an additional $2.
Our mini parade of panchan dishes arrived. It was similar to the first time except this time we had boiled, marinated cold potatoes and spicy bean sprouts.
The server set up our tableside burner and not too long after that came our casserole, which was this huge bowl of food that looked so appetizing. And this time it really seemed like how it was advertised, filled with thin slices of beef, cuts of octopus, tofu, daikon, jalapeno slices and onion all in a light soup base. The only thing that was off was the ramen noodles added in. It was basically a bar of instant noodles tossed in the soup.
The idea with the casserole cooked at your table is that the food is a hearty family meal, with the ingredients partly cooked and finished off at the table. But the food really looked pretty much cooked, so Jeanne and I turned down the burner and dived in. (We did leave the noodle bar alone for a bit to soften.)
All the ingredients were nice and well prepared, but nothing special. The soup was tasty but not necessarily spicy. When we finally dug into the noodles (which were actually tricky to scoop out with a ladle without splashing on your shirt) it was like any instant noodles. As expected, the noodles got soggy as they sat in the soup while we ate our lunch.
In the end, the noodles were a bit unnecessary (especially since we were served two bowls of steamed rice with our order). The overall dish felt authentic and was filling for the two of us.
The food experience was a bit better in this second go around than my first visit, but service still was lacking. Even though the young guy got our orders quickly, he never checked in with us until he brought us our check. And I noticed the same thing with the other tables. I saw one guy get up to pour himself more tea.
Gaboja Sojubang has a high-end look but runs like the mom-and-pop shop that it truly is. The food is decent and authentic, but with such poor service and so many other Korean options in Oakland, next time I’ll probably continue to walk on by on my way to Chinatown.
Single guy rating: 2 stars (authentic and clean, but have patience)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner
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Labels: Review
Thursday, April 17, 2008
Top Chef: Season 4, Episode 6
Someone’s Tail Gets Knocked Out the Gate
Previously: Zoi isn’t seasoning her mushrooms, which she believes are delicious. Spike wants to squeeze a lemon on them. There’s a whole lot of bleeping, and Zoi is gone, leaving Jennifer behind. Can their love story continue in Chicago? We find out tonight.
And in case you forget. No it’s NOT Top Model. It’s NOT Top Designer. It’s the title of … TOP CHEF.
The sunrise’s back over the Chicago skyline, but the camera does this weird slo-mo action up the steps of a Chicago brownstone, which totally doesn’t look like the brownstone the cheftestants are living in. Spike’s ears are burning because he hears the gossip that everyone thinks he should have gone home, but he says they’re all threatened by his passion and maybe his fakery.
Jennifer, not surprisingly, is bummed that Zoi’s gone but is fired up to win it for her spirit (like she’s some kind of ghost that will make a guest appearance at the finale to lift Jennifer to the title of Top Chef). And Ryan is stretching in some really odd-looking pajama bottoms. Dude, you’re from San Francisco. Way to represent.
We get a segment stretching out the fight from last week between Lisa and Dale, who were actually teammates. Lisa confronts Dale to try to work things out since they have to live together and Dale apologizes for yelling at her but stands behind the fact that Lisa’s negativity still throws off his mojo. Lisa keeps repeating “that’s your opinion,” which is really a fancy way of saying “you’re rubber and I’m glue.” They kiss up and make nice at the end but Lisa interviews that Dale can go fuck himself. Geez, that worked out well, didn’t it?
The Top Chef kitchen has turned into some pub, and there are a slew of pitchers of beer on a counter. Padma (who is wearing some odd stretchy striped sweater that’s half Waldo-inspired) introduces guest judge Koren Grieveson, head chef at the Chicago wine bar Avec. (She was recently named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs of 2008 and for you San Francisco people, she cooked under Michael Mina at Aqua. But since most people won’t know that, they get Chicago girl Stephanie to vouch for Grieveson’s kitchen creds.)
Their Quickfire Challenge is to make a dish to pair with one of the beer. (Beer and fancy food are on the upswing now in San Francisco Bay Area, but apparently not so much in Chicago last year when this was filmed given the cheftestants’ reactions.) Each cheftestant gets to taste three beers and selects one. They come up and start tasting and most of them seem to try to pick something interesting except for Spike the Faker who could give a rat’s ass and is all like, “where’s the Bud?” because they all taste the same.
The cheftestants start cooking and most of them are repeating the mantra of “keep it simple, stupid” so we see a lot of sandwiches and meat bites. Dale is blending up pretzel and it’s really turning into dust. (I would have just put them in a plastic bag and pulverized them into bits with a rolling pin.) Australian Mark hasn’t looked happy since the start of this episode and a sauce he’s mixing in the blender explodes on him right before time is called.
The tasting begins and the guest judge, Chef Grieveson, doesn’t look like she wants to be there, let alone be drinking all that beer. (Maybe it’s because it’s probably 10 in the morning. Damn those Top Chef segment producers!) In fact, Grieveson rarely says anything. So for this recap, I’m tallying how many words the guest judge actually spoke for each person.
Richard’s grilled tuna sandwich. Spoken words: 2 (“thank you”)
Andrew’s Rainbow trout with raspberry. Spoken words: 0
Dale’s roasted pork tenderloin with miso and pretzel crust. Spoken words: 2
Antonia’s miso-glazed cod. Spoken words: 2
Nikki’s citrus-marinated shrimp and cole slaw. Spoken words: 1
Stephanie’s mussels with cilantro vinaigrette. Spoken words: 0
Mark’s Juniper-spiked lamb rack with honey. Spoken words: a whopping 11! (“I can’t taste the beer but the flavors are very nice.”)
Disclaimer: Ryan made something here and I totally missed it because I was busy counting words. I guess this wasn’t a good idea after all. Don’t hold me to the word counts because apparently I’m bad when not reviewing a tape. But you get the point.
Spike’s charcuterie platter and clams. Spoken words: 2
Lisa’s bacon cheeseburger. Spoken words: 3
Jennifer’s shrimp and scallop beignets. Spoken words: 2
Chef Grieveson notes her bottom three and three favorites. And this episode the editors are especially childish because they’re continuing to fan the flames between the battling cheftestants. For example, when Grieveson says Spike’s dish wasn’t composed and united, the editors cut to Jennifer laughing out loud. And when Grieveson labels Dale’s dish as “not moist,” Lisa interviews that she’s all happy and like, “good bitch” to Dale. (Note to parents with kids wanting to grow up to be chefs: DO NOT WATCH TOP CHEF.)
Anywho, the bottom are Nikki (lack of seasoning), Spike and Dale, while the top three are Richard, Stephanie and Jennifer, with Jennifer being granted immunity. (This is when Spike interviews with some stupid remark and then does this lame, sarcastic “Go lesbians!” salute.)
Elimination challenge. It goes from Da Beers to Da Bears as Padma announces that they’re all going to a football game at Soldier Field to cook for a bunch of tailgating Bears fans. The fans will decide the top and bottom three dishes. They have two hours to prep and to learn what is a football.
Commercials. That girl in the Sun Chips commercial frolicking in the wheat field sure has a lot of freckles. That’s all.
The cheftestants run into Whole Foods to buy their ingredients, and Spike makes a mad dash to the meat section to buy up all the chicken wings. Everyone else is upset that he cornered the market on wings, so some start to rethink their plans like Dale who now goes for ribs.
Richard interviews that he’s never cooked for a tailgate party and that he likes more refined food. So he’s going to add his sophisticated twist to things by making a hamburger but calling it a pâté melt. He’s so proud of his bad self—thinking he’s such a rock star chef—that he calls himself a “wise ass.” Sigh. Richard, you don’t become a bad ass by calling yourself an ass. You just come off looking like one.
Other contestants talk about what they’re making. Australian Mark is all upset because everyone’s buying up the shrimp so he jokes, “how am I going to put the shrimp on the barbie?” And if you listen closely, Ryan says he’s not a sports guy. But the next few sound bites afterwards sound different, like his voice was dubbed in a studio from a later interview because it sounds all echo-ey. The dubbed in lines were basically Ryan saying something about how he’s more of a metrosexual and he’d rather go out and dance. It must have taken them months in editing to figure out the right line for him to say.
Back in the kitchen, everyone starts prepping their ingredients with Spike rubbing spices all over his chicken wings like crazy and Lisa beating up on a poor slab of skirt steak. Chef Tom Colicchio makes an appearance, chatting with Jennifer first about having immunity. (The editors show Spike making faces while she’s talking.) Chef Tom walks over to Antonia who’s making Jamaican jerk chicken and she says she imagines there will be a lot of “big fat men who like to drink beer” at the tailgate party so she figures they’ll like chicken. Isn’t she a sweet talker?
When Chef Tom talks to Ryan, he goes over his five-course menu that he’s creating including … bread salad (??). And when you look really close into Chef Tom’s eyes, you can see that just a wee bit of him died inside because he’s so bored at this moment with Pretty Boy Ryan. Really, Chef Tom could give one of his glazed eyes to Sandy Duncan. (Oh, bad recapper. I know. I’ve crossed the line.)
The cheftestants pack their food into plastic containers (I’m not even going to mention the product maker) and tape the refrigerators because they’re so overflowing with food. And it also ensures no one from the film crew can go in later that night to “have a snack.”
Back at the home stand, they show the cheftestants relaxing for the first time. A few of them are drinking red wine, Ryan is writing in his journal on a sofa (“Dear Diary, the people in the Midwest don’t seem to understand a metrosexual like myself.”) and Dale is doing his ironing.
Spike and Mark, in the meantime, have fired up the bubbles in the tub and are both soaking in and enjoying themselves. They try to get Lisa to join in on their “Real World” escapades, but she’s all, you’re not the right gender. Antonia walks by and is all freaked out at the sight of the two guys, calling it a “cheap porno.” Just because two men are in a tub together (both wearing board shorts, I might add) doesn’t mean it’s gay. I actually applaud Spike and Mark for being comfortable with themselves to sit in a tub together as friends, although I understand now that they’re both trying to adopt a child from Africa. (I’m kidding. Geesh.)
Commercials. That AARP commercial is so odd because did you notice it doesn’t feature one single old person? They just show kids talking about how lucky grown ups have it because they get to do things like fight Medicare for proper reimbursement or scramble for the last remaining Sunday matinee tickets at the Opera.
It’s game day and there’s a weird Bear mascot with an apron on doing some martial arts moves in front of Soldier Field. This must be a football game or a really bad premiere for the animated movie Kung Fu Panda. (In theaters June 6.) The cheftestants come running in dragging their coolers behind them and they each get a station with a grill to set up their food. Also, looks like typical Chicago weather. A bit of rain. A bit of wind. A bit of sun.
The judges all walk in wearing jerseys with the number 4 emblazoned on the front. I’m guessing it represents Season 4 of Top Chef. But since there are four of them, I guess it could also help them remember how many judges there are in case one gets lost. (Can you see it? Gail gets lost in a group of big, burly football fans and they’re like, “So pretty lady where’s the rest of the gang?” And she’ll be like, “I don’t know, but I know there’s four of us.” Hmm, I guess the number 4 could be for that very reason.) So the four include Padma, Gail, Chef Tom and Chicago chef Paul Kahan, also of Avec. (I guess Koren Grieveson was exhausted from all the talking she did in the Quickfire. Oh, and Chicago Stephanie once again has to vouch that Kahan is indeed popular and respected.)
The fans start piling up to the cheftestants and start eating food. And given that these are tailgaters, they basically love everything so far. I mean, it is free. Then Dale is getting ready to serve up his ribs when all of a sudden he’s surrounded by these really big guys in blue jerseys, and I wouldn’t know who they were if they didn’t captioned the segment. Apparently, Dale is a huge Da Bears fan and so he already knows this is Richard Dent, William “The Refrigerator” Perry (even I’ve heard of him) and Gayle Sayers.
Dale’s all in awe that he’s serving up all these Bears legends, and he’s basically shoving his tandoori-style dry ribs down the throats of these big guys. The judges give it a try too, and Gail declares it tasty (although it looks really dry to me on TV).
Spike the Faker is telling the fans around him that he’s a Bears fan as well, but they catch on to his web of deceit early on when he asks, “So when was the last time they won the Super Bowl?” (The answer would be 1986 if you were a true Bears fan.) Still, fans like his spicy hot wings with jicama pineapple slaw.
So the fans have a scorecard and they rate each cheftestant as either scoring a touchdown or fumble. Pretty Boy Ryan has a line growing in his area and he starts charming the fans to get them to help him set up. Behind his back some fans say that his food was too fancy and hard to eat at a tailgate party, which is pretty much what the judges think when they arrive.
Oh no. Andrew is wearing a helmet. And he doesn’t know how to take it off. I’m worried he’s going to hurt himself, or that a bunch of bullies are going to attack him.
Over at Australian Mark, the other cheftestants are commenting on how messy he is. And like I said, he hasn’t smiled this whole episode (except when he was in the bubble bath with Spike). He looks pretty stressed, and when Padma arrives, he drops a tong. He made New Zealand chowder and chicken skewers with a soy and onion glaze. Tom calls it an “absolute disaster” but I think partly it’s referring to Mark’s messy station and not just the food.
Nikki is being really strict about passing out her sausages with onions and bell peppers. The servings look really tiny, but she says they can come back for more if they want. Of course, she starts serving seconds and doesn’t realize the judges haven’t made a spin to her area yet. So when they do arrive, all she has are a few sorry pieces of sausage and leftover shrimp. The judges don’t seem please at all. And guest judge Chef Kahan is slamming her for buying the sausages instead of making them.
Commercials. OK, it’s official. A bunch of teenagers are writing the poll question for Bravo TV. This week’s question (which will qualify you for a chance to win a Napa food getaway) is “Who would you most want to touch in touch football? A) Padma, B) Tom, C) Yourself.” Oh. Give. Me. A Break. You know what the sad thing is? I thought Padma would be the runaway winner but Tom won by 46 percent. And it was pretty much a tie for second between Padma and “yourself.”
Judgment time. Padma asks for Antonia, Dale and Stephanie. They’re declared the fan favorites. Tom says he liked Stephanie’s pork but it might have needed just a tad more seasoning. Gail says she was worried about the rosemary mayonnaise but it turned out all right. (What is up with her and rosemary? Last week she didn’t like the rosemary used in Zoi’s mushrooms either.)
The guest judge Kahan names Dale’s ribs as the winner for their complexity and depth in flavor. He gets a Top Chef jersey and a gas grill from Webber. Dale does this weird MJ fist pump and a Sammy Sosa chest pump to the sky in his interview. He’s so street. (What’s weird is Ted Allen on his blog says something about Dale doing a crotch grab ala Michael Jackson some time during this episode. I totally missed that.)
Australian Mark, Big Hair Nikki (seriously, have you seen her up ‘do?) and Pretty Boy Ryan go in to face the judges as the fans’ least favorites. The judges harp on Nikki for not making her own sausage but when they talk to Ryan about his dessert of poached pears with crème fraiche, Ryan goes into the story about creating a dining experience and how all the fans were so sweet. But I’m pretty sure his speech was edited because it seemed to go on and on and all of a sudden it was finish, but Chef Tom had that same Sandy Duncan-glazed look in his eyes again. With Mark, they didn’t like the yakitori sauce that he put on his chicken skewers and they basically called him a pig.
When the three comes out to let the judges deliberate some more, Nikki says she thinks she’s the one to go, and I totally would be on board with that train, but Antonia asks, “did you fight?” Yeah, that’s what we need, more talking back to the judges. It’s like Antonia wants to sabotage her. Nikki also tells Stephanie that Ryan is longwinded, and Ryan looks mad for the first time this season.
When the three comes back for judgment, Tom says they couldn’t bring the passion of football to their cooking. He notes that Ryan’s food was totally inappropriate for tailgating, and even if it was, it didn’t taste good. Padma tells Ryan to pack his knives and go, and he seems really pleasant and polite, thanking all the judges. He comes out to the other cheftestants and what’s weird is that their reaction is very muted. They’re either all in shock because he’s so good and they thought Nikki should have left, or they never really liked the pretty boy.
Ryan gives a little speech about his experience and he gets mostly hugs from the guys and maybe a few from the girls. Most of the others just give a lackluster applause. Ryan is now the third San Francisco cheftestant to go in as many weeks. So it’s not looking good for the Bay Area with only Jennifer left to hold up the San Francisco culinary flag. Ryan adds that he cooks with his heart, not his hand and that he hasn’t changed and will always be the same Ryan Scott, which I’m sure his mom is happy about.
Next week: Looks like it’s a pastry challenge and of course most of the cheftestants suck at desserts. And they get a turn on the improv stage and later serve dinner to a bunch of jokers.
Top Chef aires Wednesday nights at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Check out videos and multiple blogs at the Top Chef Web site. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV.
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Labels: Food TV Recaps
Wednesday, April 16, 2008
Chilling Out With Ceviche
We had a warming trend this past weekend in the Bay Area, so that inspired me to make something light and cool for lunch. Since I was also visiting the Tokyo Fish Market in Berkeley, I decided to make ceviche for the first time at home. (It’s a dish I like to order at restaurants
but never make at home because you have to make sure you get super fresh fish.)
Ceviche is a raw fish dish popular in Latin America, often made by fishermen on their boats by simply cutting up the fresh fish and “cooking” it with citrus juice, usually limes. Today it’s made with a variety of seafood, including scallops and shrimp. I fell in love with ceviche after eating it at Limon, my favorite Peruvian restaurant in San Francisco.
Limon has a particular ceviche dish that uses a chili-infused cream, which I thought was so seductively rich. So I decided to make something similar with my fresh fish.
At the Tokyo Fish Market, next to the sashimi-grade yellowfin tuna and hamachi, was this small sliver of Kona Kampachi from the Big Island of Hawaii. I’ve eaten Kona Kampachi at numerous restaurants, and I’ve mentioned that it’s now becoming the ahi tuna of ’08. Everyone’s serving this sustainable fish from Hawaii, and oftentimes raw.
It’s consider sustainable because the producers of the fish, a company called Kona Blue, which started in 2001, believes that farming this fatty Hawaiian yellowtail will reduce the desire for other fish species that are being depleted from over-fishing. Kona Blue also practices good farming methods, including raising the fish 200 feet deep in the ocean off the Kona Coast so that the farming doesn’t disturb the rest of the ocean dynamics. (You can learn more about Kona Blue’s Kona Kampachi on its Web site.)
I started looking for Kona Kampachi at my local grocery stores after trying it for the first time at a San Francisco restaurant. It’s fatty just like salmon, but without the controversy over “color-added.” Even though it’s served at almost all the hip restaurants in town, I couldn’t find
it at any of the markets I visited (including Whole Foods). When I would ask for it, everyone kept looking at me like I didn’t know what I was looking for and kept asking me if I meant “hamachi”? Um, no.
So it was like finding a treasure after a long hunt when I saw it sold at the Tokyo Fish Market. (I later found out that it’s also sometimes available at Bristol Farms.) It was selling for $19.95 a pound, so not your everyday fish. But it’s such a luxurious fish to have now and then. It was so fatty that when I was making the ceviche, I felt like the fish was coated with olive oil. So you can just imagine what it was like when I added a touch of cream! Enjoy!
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Kampachi Ceviche en Crema
Copyright 2008 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
6 oz. Kona Kampachi, sliced into bite-sized pieces or tiny chunks
½ small red onion, thinly sliced
1 habanero chili, seeded and minced
juice from three limes
1 t sea salt
¼ cup heavy cream
¼ cup cilantro, finely chopped
Cut the Kampachi into slices or chunks, depending on your preference. Rinse lightly in a bowl filled with chilled water. Drain in colander and let air dry.
Slice onions thinly and place in bowl of chilled water for a few minutes. In a non-reactive bowl, mix kampachi pieces with salt, chili and onion. Then add lime juice and let sit for 10 minutes to let the fish get a bit opaque in color around the edges. Add cilantro and cream and toss. Serve immediately with roasted or grilled corn. (To make it more Peruvian, you can also serve it with yam.)
Makes two servings.
Pair with a glass of crisp Chenin Blanc or something bubbly like Cava.
TIP: If you can’t find Kona Kampachi in your local fish market, you can substitute with any other white fish. I see a lot of recipes recommending tilapia, which is easier to find. Just make sure you buy really fresh fish, so shop at a place you trust. Also, try experimenting with other raw seafood, such as making a mix of fish, scallops and shrimp.
PERUVIAN HOT: A more traditional Peruvian ceviche would actually use the rocoto hot pepper. But it’s not easy to find so I use the habanero, which I also like because of the tiny specks of orange in the dish.
TART OR NOT: Sometimes lime can be a bit tart for some people. So if you'd like to soften the sharpness of lime, you can maybe create a combo of two limes and one lemon or a tangerine. Just add your favorite citrus that might lean on the sweet side to counter the tartness of limes.
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Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Something’s Fishy … But in a Good Way: Tokyo Fish Market
Berkeley’s Tokyo Fish Market is a real food destination. And I’m not just saying that because it took me a good 45-minute bus ride (with one transfer) to get there. This Japanese-American institution is out there on its own on San Pablo Avenue but still attracts a loyal following after more than 45 years in business.
One block north of the REI store, the Tokyo Fish Market offers an abundance of fresh fish, Japanese food products and snacks, and fresh fruits and vegetables. From the street you’ll see a small, red-brick shack with the store name on the side, but that’s the old Tokyo Fish Market (and now its gift shop). About 2½ years ago, the owners expanded into a garage warehouse in the back so everything now is big and new.
Last Saturday, I made my first trip to the market looking for some high-quality fish. It’s a good thing I caught the bus because parking looks horrendous. I got there at mid-morning, so not sure if I missed the early morning rush or I beat it because the store wasn’t very packed.
Tokyo Fish Market is more than just fish, although it really shines in that area. (More on that later.) It’s really a Japanese supermarket selling a variety of goods, including an assortment or rice and sake, miso, Japanese crackers and snacks, fresh mochi from Los Angeles, frozen foods (including a section of Hawaiian goodies) and a grocery section with many organic fruits and vegetables.
Near the entrance, there’s also a deli section that sells bento—the Japanese boxed lunches. They have a variety of combinations, many featuring the fish sold there. There’s also a section of pickled and marinated foods like poke and kazunoku (salted herring). Of course, there’s a sushi counter.
The fish counter was just amazing. It ranged from fillets of halibut, ono, sea bass and butterfish to whole fishes like tai snapper, sand dabs and monkfish. There’s a live crab tank (selling for $6.95 a pound right now since we’re near the end of the season) and a refrigerated section of more fish-related foods like ceviche.
But I was staring at the center where the Tokyo Fish Market featured chunks of sashimi-grade fish, including ruby red blocks of yellow fin tuna and the pale pink hamachi. There were also more exotic sashimi ingredients like mirugai (that clam that looks like an elephant’s trunk) and fresh abalone.
On Saturday, the fish counter seemed to be staffed by a bunch of college-aged students. All perfectly nice and helpful, but not whom I would call my local fishmonger. I guess a lot of the old-timers just work on the weekdays.
Side note: I walked into the gift shop and it was super quiet with no one inside. They were selling mostly Japanese housewares from sushi bamboo mats to pottery to kid toys to cookbooks. Ideally the owners wanted to tear down the front shop and make more room for parking but the city of Berkeley deemed the red-brick building a historic landmark. Such is the life of an institution.
I left the market with a bunch of grocery items and a cut of sashimi-grade Kona Kampachi, a farm-raised fish from the Big Island of Hawaii. (Check back tomorrow to see how I prepared it.) My only wish is that Tokyo Fish Market is walkable from where I live. For now, it’ll be my occasional special trips for fresh fish and more.






Tokyo Fish Market, 1220 San Pablo Ave. (at Gilman), Berkeley. PH: 510.524.7243. Open Monday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Closed Sundays.
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Monday, April 14, 2008
A Chocolate Affair to Remember
On an unseasonably warm Sunday in San Francisco, chocolate oozed and people sweated at the 2nd Annual International Chocolate Salon in Fort Mason near the Marina. Even though I’m not one of those crazy-for-chocolates people, I had so much fun last year that I decided to return again this year.
Last year the Chocolate Salon was over two days but this year it was shrunk to just one day. (I bet they probably got a lot of pleas from vendors who were overwhelmed from having to give out free chocolates for two days.) So I decided to get there early yesterday because I worried it’ll be crazy packing two-days of people into one day. There were already mass confusion when I arrived because no one knew which line was for tickets and which was will call. When it was finally clarified, the will call line (I pre-ordered my ticket online) was running slower than the ticket sales line. You can see the mass confusion in the photo above.
I give thumbs down to the poor organization by TasteTV, who sponsored and organized the event. They could have easily added one more person to check the names of people in the will call line. Or at least offered up a few pieces of chocolates for those of us waiting in line.
But most people in line were pretty considerate and pleasant. I think because they were all dreaming of the chocolates in store for them inside.
Once I got in and adjusted to the stifling air from the warm day and crowded room, I started talking to the vendors and snapping shots. Here are some of the highlights of the tables I visited and the chocolates I tasted.
The first table I saw was Schoggi, the Swiss chocolate maker who opened a store at Yerba Buena Lane in SOMA. They were offering up tastings of this dried orange dipped in white chocolate and milk chocolate. I like oranges, but not dried because the acidity is often too intense to eat alone. Dipping them in chocolate didn’t help. It didn’t taste awful, but it wasn’t a pleasant first taste. Luckily there were 30 more vendors to try.
I bumped into a friend who recommended I try the E. Guittard chocolates, the artisan line of chocolates made by the family-owned Guittard Chocolates of Burlingame. I’d never heard of Guittard Chocolates, but its E. Guittard line of chocolates uses all-natural ingredients. I tried the bittersweet and white chocolates and while they were nice, I didn’t find anything special about them. There was no rich depth or complexity in the flavors.
I knew I could count on some good chocolates at my favorite Poco Dolce of San Francisco, which I first discovered at last year’s Chocolate Salon. This year’s table was only offering three tastings from these small canisters. And I had to wait a bit because I felt like I was surrounded by a lot of chocolate-tasting newbies who wanted to take a bite and then stand in front of the samples contemplating the flavor. PUH-lease, take your bite and then move to the side. Anywho, I was calmed by Poco Dolce’s burnt caramel with fleur de sel. I left with an 8-piece box of their mixed flavors, which was $3 cheaper than the retail price at stores like Whole Foods. I’m going to have such a good week trying one flavor a night. ;-)
Among some of the first-time presenters at the Salon this year was this chocolate from Los Angeles called Marti Chocolatt. It’s made by a Filipino-American who uses her background to create flavors like Jasmine citron, mango caramel or buko pandan. Marti Chocolatt was experiencing the first-time vendor shock when all the samples they put out for display were gobbled up by guests. And it wasn’t even noon. So when I arrived, they were in panic mode trying to cut up more pieces. They were nice enough to cut me a piece of the mango (which was too sweet for me) and the banana (which was an interesting flavor but kind of unusual). All the chocolates by Tonet Tibay are ganache-like, so pretty much truffles.
I dropped by the Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates table to say hello to owner and chef Chris, who I interviewed for my blog when he opened his store in Hayes Valley earlier this year. Chris says he’s still flying back and forth every other week between San Francisco and his home in Kansas City, Missouri, to make sure the store is running smoothly. His table definitely had the most beautiful chocolates on display, and he was offering samples of his Aztec chili-infused chocolates.
This is Dennis Kearney, the chocolatier behind Coco Delice Fine Chocolates, which is produced in Oakland. His chocolates have a French influence, so they’re ganache-filled candy using darker chocolates. Chef Dennis has been making his chocolates for about two and a half years and they’re mostly sold online and at stores like Whole Foods, The Pasta Shop and Bittersweet Café. One thing I liked about Coco Delice is its environmental consciousness. Most of their ingredients are purchased locally near their production facility in the Bay Area and their packaging is from recycled materials. Even their sample containers at the Salon were made from biodegradable plastic.
One of Coco Delice’s chocolates I tried was this Peanut Butter Cup. I feel like peanut butter is this year’s trend in chocolates, taking over from last year’s trend of salted caramel topped with sea salt. I saw a few tables that were offering up peanut butter-based chocolates. The flavor reminds me of my favorite candy growing up, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups, and Coco Delice’s version comes very close in matching the flavor of Reese’s but with a more creamy texture.
Along with regular chocolates, there were a few specialty items such as this body frosting sold by Chocoholics Divine Desserts, a family-run business in the Central Valley. The body frosting is actually a rich chocolate that you apply on your body with a brush. The sampling I tried was surprisingly good, a nice rich chocolate taste. And no, I didn’t lick it off someone’s body. They gave out samplings in little plastic spoons.
Chuao Chocolatier is from the San Diego area and was started by a couple of brothers from Venezuela. So all the chocolates are from Venezuela, which has some of the best dark chocolates. The brothers infused the chocolates with a creamy ganache in a variety of flavors like Cabernet Sauvignon and Earl Grey. They were providing samples in these leaf-shaped mini-candy nibbles. While I liked the chocolate shell, I thought the ganache filling was too sweet.
Cosmic Chocolates is another Oakland-based chocolate maker and their chocolates are always really wild in color. They’re the ones who were selling the Obama chocolates with the face of the Democratic presidential candidate applied on top. It had a mix of ingredients but I couldn’t remember them all; I just remember it had espresso. So I joked that meant Obama had a lot of energy, but they didn’t get it. I also tried their dulce de leche flavor they were sampling and it was nice with a slight spicy ganache filling. But you know, at this point I was sampling so many chocolates I think some of the flavors were mixing together.
Here’s the Earl Grey truffles being sampled at the XOX Truffles table. San Francisco-based XOX has a store in North Beach and the flavors are all the creation of Chef Jean-Marc Gorce, formerly of Fringale Restaurant. The Earl Grey truffle was last year’s popular flavor at the Chocolate Salon and I can see why. It had a definite bergamot flavor, but not overtly sweet. They were melt-in-your mouth good but I find truffles with the dusted coating a challenge to eat. I also tried the lemon-ginger truffle, which was good but not as good as the Earl Grey.
The most colorful booth was this one by Sacred Chocolates of San Rafael. The guy in the psychedelic costume (OK, maybe it’s not a costume to him) is Steve Adler, the founder and chocolate maker of Sacred Chocolates. He makes all his chocolates raw, meaning he doesn’t cook the cocoa bean and even includes the skin. All the beans are organic. I tried it. I didn’t like it. But I give him credit for showing up in his business suit.
This is the Raspberry Chambord truffle from Moonstruck Chocolates, which has several chocolate cafes around the country including one in San Francisco’s Marina district and another in Walnut Creek. This was another chocolate that was too sweet for me. I also tried their Bailey Irish Cream truffle and it was a little better, not as sweet but creamy. (Although it didn’t taste like Bailey Irish Cream.)
Here’s the table for the San Francisco Toffee Company. Their candy reminds me a lot like Almond Rocha, which is that caramel brittle with the almond bits and chocolate coating. I don’t think Almond Rocha exists anymore, but if you have a craving for it, the San Francisco Toffee Co.’s version is pretty much a classier version of this childhood favorite. (What’s funny is the company started in San Francisco but now operates out of Seal Beach. I think they said they’re trying to make their way back to San Francisco.)
One of my favorite discoveries this year at the Chocolate Salon is the chocolates from Jade Chocolates, a small chocolate maker that just started this year. The owner and chocolate maker, Mindy Fong, gets dried mango from the Philippines and hand-dips them in chocolate. But she doesn’t stop there. She then creates them into these chocolate orchid creations. I thought the mango-dipped chocolates were all right, but what really got me were her genmai chocolate bars.
BTW, I took the above photo after I got home because a lot of my photos from the Salon were a bit shaky. I think I was all hopped up on sugar. I bought two of Mindy’s Genmai chocolate bars because it was such an interesting candy. I love genmai cha, which is the Japanese green tea with toasted brown rice. Mindy mixes the tea with the chocolate, so you get a candy bar with little bits of toasted brown rice. It reminds me of an Asian version of a Nestle Crunch. So good. Right now, Mindy’s hand-made (and hand-wrapped) chocolates are only sold online and at select stores around the Bay Area such as The Pasta Shop, Bi-Rite Market and Leland Tea Company.
The perennial favorite table at the Chocolate Salon is Charles Chocolates of Emeryville. This year Charles Chocolates offered up this peanut butter chocolate butterfly, which I think was the best version of the peanut butter chocolate I tasted at the salon. The peanut butter wasn’t overly strong and it had a nice nutty crunch to it. I loved it. They also had a papaya pate de fruit, which was nice and sweet but lacked a papaya essence. (And I should know since I ate lots of papaya growing up in Hawaii.)
Here’s Charles Siegel, the man behind Charles Chocolates, answering questions from the crowd.
So another year, another chocolate binge. Next year Taste TV is talking about finding a bigger space (um, you think?) but they’re also talking about raising the $20 admission price because of the popularity. I hope not. This is a chance for a lot of small, local chocolatiers to share their goods with a diverse audience, and it’ll be too bad to see their audience shrink because of economic forces. Chocolate for the people!
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