Thursday, July 31, 2008

Fast and Furious Fried Rice

It might seem that I haven’t been cooking lately, but I have. It’s just that I’ve been making the same things lately, not feeling very creative.

But one thing that I made awhile ago that I’ve been meaning to post is this recipe for fried rice. Fried rice makes a great lunch to take to work or for the weekend because it’s easy and fast. There are all kinds of fried rice, and one of the versions I ate growing up is this fried rice made with ground meat and lettuce. The freshness of the lettuce gives this a nice crunch blending with the savory flavor of the beef. (I used ground turkey to be healthy, and you can too. BTW, I also used brown rice because that’s what I eat 99 percent of the time.)

What I also like about this recipe is the minimum number of main ingredients. It’s really just rice, ground meat, lettuce and an egg to bind everything together. Enjoy!

Beef and Lettuce Fried Rice

Copyright 2008 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
6 oz. ground beef or turkey
½ a head of lettuce, shredded (about 2 cups)
3-4 cups cooked rice (leftover works best)
1 egg
1 T green onion, chopped
1 t white pepper
2 T soy sauce
1 T sesame oil
1 t grated fresh ginger
1 T Xiao Hsing wine (or sherry wine)
2 T Canola oil
salt for seasoning

In a small bowl, marinate the ground meat with pepper, 1 T soy sauce, sesame oil, ginger and Xiao Hsing wine. Let sit for at least 10 minutes.

In a large wok, warm Canola oil (or other light-tasting vegetable oil) over high heat. Then add the ground meat (don’t throw in all the marinade with it, reserve some for later). Break into pieces and cook until nearly done (about 2 minutes) then add rice, mixing thoroughly warming the rice through. Add shredded lettuce and green onions and cook for another minute before adding the egg (whisk in a small bowl before adding to wok).

If you cook the egg fast, you’ll have a nice glistening sheen on your rice. If you don’t want the egg partly raw, then cook it a bit longer, constantly tossing your rice so it doesn’t stick until egg is done. At the same time, season with salt and additional tablespoon of soy sauce per your taste. (If you have leftover marinade, you can also add some of that.)

Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Pair with glass of Pinot Noir.

TIP: Making fried rice really involves a high heat and lots of tossing of the rice so it doesn’t clump up or stick to the pan. So have all your ingredients ready because it should all move pretty fast and furious. The positive side is your fried rice is a quick meal to fix! (Another reason not to cook things to long is the lettuce lets out moisture when cooked too long. That’s why you add it at the end.)

WHY LEFTOVERS: Using rice that’s been in the refrigerator for at least 24 hours helps in making fried rice because the rice won’t cook up as mushy. The time in the frig actually helps harden it to be able to sustain the stir-frying in the wok. So never use freshly cooked rice because it’ll tend to clump and stick together more.

Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Pretty in Pinkberry

PASADENA
I’ve been Pinkberried. I am no longer a Pinkberry virgin. Does that now make me a Pinkhead?

After first reading about the long lines and parking violations circling the original Pinkberry frozen yogurt shop in West Hollywood, I’ve been dying to see for myself what the big fuss was all about.

Since then, the store—opened in 2005 by two Korean-Americans—has become a swirly movement. It has spawned nearly 60 locations in Southern California and New York. Its owners have starred in their very own American Express commercial.

But it has yet to open in the San Francisco Bay Area. So despite all the various Pinkberry copycats that have popped up in the last year, I couldn’t really relate when people would say “it’s not the same like Pinkberry.”

Last week when I had to fly down to Pasadena for work, I made it my mission to find a Pinkberry. Luckily, one was just a few blocks from my hotel. After our meeting ended one day, I went with my colleague Tammy for some fro-yo before we had to head off for dinner with the rest of our colleagues. Yes, I was determined to try the fro-yo even if it turned out to be a pre-dinner snack.

The Pinkberry store in Pasadena is on the small side, with only a couple of tables. Already wary of the copycats and media frenzy swirling around them, Pinkberry has banned cameras at their stores as noted by the big red circle and slash sign at the door. (Still, that didn’t stop me from sneaking in shots of my actual purchase.)

The store has the bright contemporary design that has set the mold for fro-yo shops since. What was interesting was that on the right wall before you hit the counter you see a rack of little knick-nacks for purchase that I don’t normally see at fro-yo shops. (They’re cute little animal figurines and neon-glowing items.)

Pinkberry started with just two flavors: original (which is on the tart side like the ones in Korea) and green tea. It has now added a third flavor: coffee. (It also sells smoothies and shaved ice.)

I got myself a small cup of the original. I could have topped it with a variety of fruits (mango or lychee?) and crunch (granola or coco pebbles?), but I wanted to keep it simple so I just topped it with fresh strawberries.

The fro-yo was definitely creamy and cooling, with no hint of the iciness that I’ve come to hate in my fro-yo. Its taste was tart, but in a good way. When mixed with the fresh strawberries, it was a satisfying cup of goodness. The taste and consistency was very similar to Red Mango, which I consider one of the better fro-yos out there. Pinkberry and Red Mango are creamy but there’s a difference that I couldn’t put my finger on. The only way I can describe it is Red Mango seems to have more body in the yogurt while Pinkberry might be a tad lighter.

Since I didn’t know when I would try Pinkberry again and wasn’t sure when it would open in the Bay Area, I decided to go for another cup. This time the green tea.

I got a small cup of the green tea (which I’m not sure why it needs to be more expensive than the original but it is) without any toppings because I just wanted to taste the complex flavors of green tea. The Pinkberry version, or at least the one I had that day, was a bit odd. It had a strong tart flavor at first bite, but then a calming robust green tea flavor when it’s in your mouth, and finally an odd aftertaste that wasn’t necessarily tart or green tea. I’m not sure if I’m a fan of the green tea as I am of the original, but I can see how it can grow on you.

Because Pinkberry has become so big, it’s also been the target of criticism. Often nicknamed “Crackberry” for its long lines, it was also a target of a lawsuit questioning its healthy claims. For me, I’m not concerned about watching my waistline, so I’m not particular about the ingredients as long as they’re fresh and not artificial. In the end, I just want a creamy fro-yo with a nice twang to it.

Pinkberry does it and many others follow suit. I can see why Pinkberry was so popular when it was the only player in town, but now with all the copycats the options for consumers are plentiful and varied. And that’s a good thing. I can’t say Pinkberry is the king of all things fro-yo, but it definitely has set the standard.

Single Guy's Fro-yo Rankings:

1. Red Mango, Palo Alto
2. Pinkberry, Southern California
3. Fraiche, Palo Alto
4. Icebee, San Francisco
5. Jubili, San Francisco
6. Yogurt Harmony, Berkeley
7. Yogen Früz, San Francisco

Pinkberry. 19 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena. PH: 626.744.0505. Additional locations throughout Southern California and New York. Check its Web site for locations and hours of operation.

Monday, July 28, 2008

The Next Food Network Star: Season 4, Finale (Spoiler Alert)

Go Big or Go Home

So it’s finally here. Whew, I’m so tired of recapping this show so I’m so glad it’s ending. But to torture me some more, the Food Network starts off the final episode not with the typical “previously” but with a three-minute summary of the entire season thus far. Argh! Oh, there’s Kevin, who was eliminated early on and my favorite. He would have totally made this season more fun if he stuck around. We see the train challenge, Spice Queen Nipa bossing people around, the famous fall by Lisa on the Coast Guard ship, and Jennifer breaking glass on the stove top. (I bet she cringes every time they air that clip.)

In case you’ve already forgotten, last week in Vegas we saw the judges wimp out and send all three into the finals back in New York without an elimination. I guess since America’s not voting, the judges didn’t care whether it’s a head-to-head battle or a three-way tie? Anywho, the show starts off with mini bios of the three finalists.

Lisa is a mother, wife, restaurant owner and designer. Hey, her husband is an executive chef already? And she designs stylish aprons? What does she need with her own Food Network show?

Adam is the guy who opened a restaurant with his brother and it failed and he’s now waiting tables. His could be a real rags-to-riches story if he wins. Why is he kissing his grill at home? Hey, his small kitchen reminds me of mines. We’re like two peas in a pod, Adam and me.

Aaron has really tiny kids. That’s what I noticed about him because really the mini bio doesn’t say much about Aaron. He says he believes in himself, which is all well and good. I think he needs to improve his fashion because he always looks like he just came back from a pool party.

Finally they start the intro music. Why even bother? Let’s get on with it already.

Opening scenes of New York taxi cabs racing by, then the three arrive all dressed up (except for Aaron) at the Food Network studios at the Chelsea Market. They’re greeted by judges Bob Tuschman and Susie Folgelson of the Food Network, who tell them that this is their final challenge. Doh. Susie looks mad as usual when she’s not talking.

The contestants learn that they have to produce a pilot of their very own show. Lisa says ohmigod in a whisper to Aaron like she’s so surprised. They will perform on Rachel Ray’s set, which initially I thought would be fancy when I imagined Rachel Ray’s talk show kitchen but turns out it’s her rinky-dink 30 Minute Meals studio. To help them produce their show, they get the help of longtime Food Network producer Gordon Elliott (whom I always get confused as that guy who hosted the "Lives of the Rich and Famous").

Elliott gives the three finalists time to think about their pitches, and they go off into their little corners and start scribbling notes, except for Lisa who is busy putting a lot of scraps and magazine tear sheets together like some design board presentation.

So she’s up first and she comes rolling into the room with a cart full of junk. She starts setting up her things and you can tell Elliott’s getting a bit inpatient. When she finally starts, she has created three concepts for her show and for each concept she’s put together a box of props, almost like a lunch box they would serve at your bed. It’s all very cute and interesting, but we’re not giving out A’s for crafts, Lisa, so get on with it. (BTW, if you haven’t noticed, cranky pants recapper is back for the finale. Ha!)

Her first pitch is for “Beautiful Basics,” which she’s been pushing all along with the combination of food knowledge and artistic flair. Second idea is called “Pure and Simple” and focuses on green living and organics, and third is “Fashion Feast.” (That’s probably pretty much self-explanatory.) Elliott likes “Beautiful Basics” and tells her to not be a smarty pants and pick basic ingredients so that the show is approachable to home viewers.

Aaron comes in next, and he’s all “hey bro” with Elliott. Aaron is all about the bold flavors and using herbs and spices. The name of his show is “Bold and Flavorful” or another weird idea “Leftovers Not Forgotten.” Elliott’s not feeling the vibe for either names, so he asks if he had a nickname on the show and Aaron says the other contestants called him “Big Daddy” (which I don’t remember hearing anyone call him that, but whatevs). Of course, Elliott loves this and calls Aaron’s show “Big Daddy’s Kitchen.” He should have a tiny assistant named Annie and then he’ll be all set.

Finally it’s Adam who comes up with “I’m Always Hungry in Philadelphia” (not to be confused with that basic cable show called “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia”). Adam’s show involves viewer emails asking him questions on cooking, and Elliott proposes a live chat on the Internet during the show. Adam’s excited because he thinks his show can appeal to all the cool You Tube/Myspace/Facebook crowd who’s totally socializing online but not eating.

The three go into makeup to prep for the pilot, and Lisa is wearing a really bright fuscia dress. She arrives and Elliott kisses her hand (never trust a very tall, hand-kissing man with an accent) and the blond producer gives Lisa a run-through of her show. I don’t know how the contestants remember all these things. I can barely remember where to catch the bus each morning.

Lisa starts filming and it’s all very kinetic and I’m all agitated just watching her. She’s demonstrating a black cod dish with sabayon, which she explains is an Italian custard. (BTW, I make sabayon whenever I make tiramisu and it’s hard to tell when it gets to the right thickening point, but it’s all so good and pretty.)

It looks like she doesn’t really finish on time, and Elliott makes her do it again and she hardly looks at the camera. The next take Elliott tells her to go crazy like she’s talking to her girlfriends. I still think she looks rushed, but Elliott seems happy and gives her a high-five. (BTW, her sabayon looked unusually bright yellow.)

Commercials. The Food Network is doing a Hell’s Kitchen-like reality show called Chef Jeff Project. It’s supposed to be a culinary boot camp so be prepared for a lot of screaming, but this time without an accent.

It’s Adam’s turn to film his pilot and he’s dressed in a simple brown shirt and jeans. His set has the added flat-screen monitor because he’s going to be talking with a viewer named McCall(sp?). (They made it seem like she’s a viewer, but she could totally be a production assistant for the Food Network pretending to be a viewer.) Anywho, “McCall” supposedly has the roast chicken blues and is bored making the same old roast chicken recipe (I love roast chicken and never get bored making it) so Adam is coming to the rescue with his spice-rubbed beer roast chicken.

Adam gets a bit nervous (and neurotic actually) about all that he has to do for the show and wonders if he’s bitten off more than he can chew. He starts talking and gets a bit freaked out by all the questions that McCall is shooting at him. (See, she’s a ringer, I say.) At one point, Elliott yells at Adam to wash his hands with soap after he touched the chicken because he just washed his hands with water. They do a few more takes and it looks like Adam is getting calmer and he lets some of his humor flow in. I actually like how he’s interacting with the “viewer” so it’s not just him talking and it seems kind of new age with the technology. When he’s done, Elliott tries to give him a high-five but Adam still has chicken hands so he does a little “bump” instead.

Last is Aaron who comes in all loud and jovial, but once he has time to think about what he needs to say before the camera starts running, he looks like a deer in a headlight (Elliott’s words). Aaron actually looks like a zombie. Oh my, this can’t be good.

Aaron is making jerk rib eye with honey plantains, and his voice sounds odd as he’s talking, almost like he needs to clear his throat. Elliott tells him to slow down but then he keeps flubbing his lines. It sounds like he’s done more takes than the other two and he always looks scared right before filming. In the end, Aaron feels like something’s missing from his shoot but Elliott tells him he did great.

Now’s it the finale in front of a studio audience. Lisa is wearing a really gold shiny dress and Adam looks nice in a blue, long-sleeve shirt. Aaron is Aaron. Bobby Flay is there as the host and he’s holding these note cards, which is really odd because I never see him look down at them. So the note cards make him seem more like a host of a game show or dating show as he introduces the three finalists.

The judges Bob and Susie are also there, and Bob doesn’t look very dressed up. They show the finalists’ friends and family and then Bobby asks Gordon Elliott how the contestants did. Of course, he says all three did great and it will be a “hard decision” for the judges to make.

Bobby introduces the past contestants and the parade of rejects begin with Kevin running in like some mad man, Corey, Jeffrey (who gets a lot of cheer for some reason from the three finalists), Nipa, Jennifer, Shane (who also gets a lot of laughs from the finalists) and Kelsey, who throws kisses at the three.

Bobby introduces the pilot, starting with Lisa. And you know, after editing, her show is really good. She doesn’t seem as frenetic as during filming, and I like what she’s cooking. Plus, she tells these interesting stories about fishing with her dad or making sabayon as a 13-year old. Lisa is smiling really big as she watches herself, and the audience laughs a few times. When it’s over, the crowd cheers and Adam and Aaron look screwed.

Bob Tuschman says Lisa was confident and showed a depth and range of culinary knowledge. Susie says she was multifaceted and that there’s so much to market with Lisa. (Susie’s always thinking of ways to whore people out, huh? Dang marketers.) Bobby says Lisa is unpredictable but in a good way.

Commercials. You know what? 409 isn’t that strong that you can shoot through a wall. I can barely get it to rub off the mold stains in my shower. (What? Like you don’t have the same problem.)

Next up is Adam, and Bobby asks about the name of his show. Adam says it’s his online user name, and that he wants to talk to people around the country. He makes a joke at Elliott’s expense and gets a nice laugh before his pilot begins.

In the pilot he’s really relaxed and he seems to have a nice interaction with “McCall.” People laugh at his jokes and his odd chicken humor, even though that chicken looks burnt because of the spice rub. It’s all fun and entertaining but I have to say it seems to lack much content.

Bob says it was a joy to watch, and Susie says she was blown away and that she learned so much. Really? Is sticking a beer can up the butt of a chicken some new technique? Bobby says everyone probably wanted to taste that chicken.

Commercials. That Sears Kenmore Elite commercial with the little boy and his knit cap is soooo cute. I’m getting hooked on this Kenmore Elite line.

Bobby asks Aaron about filming his pilot and he says it was challenging. Then they show “Big Daddy’s Kitchen” and Aaron comes in with a big HEY, almost booming to me. He seems kind of pushy with his script, telling people that they will love doing something. I don’t like it when people say I will love something so much. What if I don’t? Then who’s accountable, Aaron? He goes through the demo of his meat dish, and it’s OK but he doesn’t mix in any personal stories like Lisa did. Plus, I’m starting to realize it’s hard to understand Aaron because he almost has a lisp or something.

In the end, Bobby asks if he would have done his pilot differently, and he says he would have ate more. I admit, that is witty.

People are really loving Aaron’s pilot and they really laughed a lot during the showing, which surprised me because it wasn’t that funny. I just think people were laughing because they love Aaron like a big old simple guy, like a buddy. Anywho, Bob says he was funny and generous, big and bold. Susie says he owned it.

Now deliberations. Bobby says the judges are going to go off and decide in a couple of minutes the next Food Network star. WTF? They’re going to decide someone’s future in two minutes? You know that’s just TV speak, because I bet those audience members sat for hours waiting for the judges to come back with their decision.

Commercials. I don’t understand that awkward Comcast Digital voice commercial with the guy who can’t really talk to his brother. Weird.

The three judges are sitting around going over each person, and of course they have good things to say about all three. Bobby says he’s rooting for Aaron but he also would watch Lisa’s show. Bob says all three could have their own show, but who can start tomorrow? So based on that, who do you think they picked? (I guessed Lisa, but I was really rooting for Adam.)

Bobby’s about to announce the decision, and the three finalists look weird, especially Adam who looks like he has dry mouth. Bob Tuschman introduces Brooke Johnson, the president of the network who comes out every year in the finale but I always think she’s a scary-looking lady. (I’m just shooting my future chances at a Food Network show left and right, huh?)

Brooke Johnson says the winner will have one last challenge, which is to start filming his or her own Food Network show the next day so it can air in exactly one week. (Again, this is like the whole two-minute thing. Who believes this was actually filmed last week? This was probably filmed months ago, so the winner actually has had months to come up with the first episode. I can see through the curtains, lady. You’re not fooling cranky pants here.)

Bobby asks the three to comment one last time and we get the typical (start the violins) comments about experiencing an incredible once-in-a-lifetime event (Lisa), learning more about oneself (Aaron) or confirming one’s life passion (Adam).

Then Bobby, still holding those damn note cards that he never looked down at, announces that the winner is Aaron. Wow, I am totally blown away. Aaron? I totally figured Lisa would be the one to win. But I guess Aaron is probably the better cook because the judges all seemed to love his food early on.

I don’t know if Aaron really has the TV personality to sustain his own show. Of course, his family is totally jumping like crazy and he’s totally happy with hugs going all around. There’s a weird blip in the tape and I bet that was one of the Food Network editors stressing out that he inserted the wrong episode where Aaron was named the winner just to throw off the scent, but now he can’t take it back. Ah, that explains it.

Aaron talks about doubting himself but keeping it real and the typical “follow your dream” comment. What’s funny in the closing minutes is that these machines are blasting out gold confetti and it makes this loud sound that makes Shane jump like he was spooked. He’s so sweet. I would have watched his show.

Aaron’s new show, “Big Daddy’s House,” (I guess he was too big for just the kitchen) airs this coming Sunday at 1:30 p.m. on the Food Network. Like they say, check your local listings. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Pot Pies at Bakesale Betty

This afternoon I returned from my business trip to Pasadena in Southern California. So of course I was too tired to think about making dinner. Instead, I walked down the street to the popular corner bakery, Bakesale Betty in the Temescal neighborhood in Oakland.

I've mentioned in the past how I enjoy this bakery's humongous scones. But lately they've been more popular for their fried chicken sandwiches, which of course I haven't tried because I don't eat fried foods. They're also known for their seasonal strawberry shortcakes ($4.50), which you can still get right now.

Despite the temptation, I didn't get a strawberry shortcake for dinner. Instead, I decided to try Bakesale Betty's new chicken pot pies. They sell a large regular-sized pie for $25, but being the Single Guy, I opted for the individual-sized portion sold for $6.

The pies are sold uncooked, and you have to take them home and bake them to get fresh, piping hot pot pies for dinner (or lunch, I guess).

Here's my little chicken pot pie after I brought it back home. I know I said I didn't want to cook dinner, but how easy is it to just preheat the oven to 350 degrees and then stick this pie in the oven? The pot pie actually came wrapped in plastic wrap, which I removed. The instructions said to bake it for 40 minutes (55 minutes if you ended up freezing it) on a cookie sheet.

The pie, actually, looked kind of small when I bought it. So when I walked home, I stopped by Safeway to get some mixed spring greens to make a salad with homemade pear vinaigrette. (I am so tired of all the overly dressed salads that I had at the hotel and restaurant in Pasadena. What's up with drowning your salads, SoCal people?!)

Here's my chicken pot pie after 40 minutes. Now, before baking I contemplated brushing an egg wash (egg yolk or whites with water) on the crust and sprinkle some sea salt on top. But because Bakesale Betty didn't specifically recommend those instructions, I wanted to bake it exactly like how most consumers would probably do it. (I don't think most people would think to bother adding an egg wash and sea salt on top.) What happens is that the crust didn't really bake to a nice golden brown color, which I'm sure the egg wash would have totally helped achieve that. Instead, it looked a bit pale, and the extra salt sprinkled on top would have helped because ...

... when I ate the filling, it tasted slightly on the bland side. The filling definitely had big chunks of chicken, and you can tell it's fresh chicken meat. There weren't much other ingredients other than some carrots and probably celery. I was expecting some bright green peas, but I guess since Bakesale Betty uses only fresh ingredients, they probably didn't want to spend the time shucking fresh peas. (I would have used frozen, but I know most fresh food people don't like that.) If I had sprinkled the salt on the crust, it would have definitely help enhance the flavor of the filling. Instead it was OK, nothing amazing but not awful. Having the light salad help make this a proper dinner for me.

Would I make it a regular trip to buy the chicken pot pies? Probably not. If I'm in the area, and out of ideas for lunch or dinner, I make do it again (the next time definitely doing the egg wash and salt). But I wouldn't make a special trip just for them like what I do for their scones.

Wednesday, July 23, 2008

Not Really Oh La La at this Marché (CLOSED)

UPDATE (01/09/09): Marche on the Square closed in early January 2009 after months of trying to get the necessary construction permits to take full advantage of the space.

A few weeks ago I went to a preview of the new Ghirardelli Square near Fisherman’s Wharf in San Francisco. One tenant I was really looking forward to checking out was Marché on the Square, a French-inspired gourmet market. But it wasn’t open at the time.

This past weekend, I returned to check it out after it opened its doors a couple of weeks ago. Marché on the Square is a 3-in-1 project: a gourmet grocery store, a wine bar and an upstairs bistro. (The upstairs bistro still wasn’t opened this past weekend because it’s waiting for a license for its elevator—a rule relating to the Americans with Disabilities Act. So instead the full bistro menu and tables were brought down to the wine bar.)

When I walked in, I was surprised at how small the interior is. The main space looked tiny—and the store was virtually empty so you’d think it would look bigger. There weren’t that many shelves of products and the people behind the deli counter looked like they didn’t know how to keep themselves entertained all day.

The chef/owner of Marché on the Square, Brian Crawford, was once the executive chef of Dean & DeLuca, so he has a good pedigree when it comes to gourmet specialty shops. Prior to the opening, Crawford promoted his Marché as something you’d likely see in Paris. This is not Paris, people.

In Paris, the stores are immaculate and stylishly decorated with colorful banners and trimmings. Products are beautifully displayed, almost like artwork. Marché on the Square is clean-looking, but the walls seemed naked and the products were uninspiring. Other than a few bottles of sauces and balsamic vinegars, I didn’t really notice anything that I really wanted to buy. And it seemed like there was more a prominent display of beer than anything else.

For the food, there are three counters. Off to the right is a sushi section, and front and center were two side-by-side counters. One side sold a variety of cheese and the other side had lunch items like prepared salads and sandwiches.

The overall vibe was of a store that was hastily put together, and that seemed to be the same vibe in the wine bar off to the side. I walked over for a drink and some snacks because it was near the end of the day and I was tired and hungry.

There were a few people already eating at the tables set up along the window. But the first thing I noticed was that the wooden chairs at the bar seemed cheap, like it would get nicked very easily and the place would look tired in just a few months.

Still, I saddled up to the bar and looked over the Bar Marché menu by Crawford and his chef de cuisine Jacques Rosseau. The wine list has a variety of wine from all around the world, and I settled for a 2003 Merlot from the St. George winery in the Russian River area. It was an excellent medium-body wine.

The full bistro menu offered some interesting bites, including oysters, scallops, halibut, French onion soup and a fancy beef dish to share for two. I decided to order the diver scallops ($16), which came with some sautéed greens, citrus and light broth topped with Tennessee Paddlefish caviar.

The scallops came out with a slight fishy smell preceding it. Some of you know I’m very sensitive to this smell, which I learned comes from overcooking the fish. The scallops themselves tasted fine and had a nice brown coloring to it, so I wouldn’t say it was overcooked. Overall it was OK.

Then I tried the assorted charcuterie plate ($12) to snack on as I sipped my wine and enjoyed the foggy view of Aquatic Park. The servers are still learning the menu so my server had to check his notes when explaining what was on the plate. They included: duck rillette croistini, copa, prosciutto, salumi, mortabella and brie cheese. There was one additional meat that I didn’t hear, but I think it was like pastrami.

I thought everything was nice, although the meat weren’t sliced as thin as I liked (making the prosciutto, for example, chewy to eat). But I loved the duck rillette, which was a bit chunky but flavorful, and the brie was perfectly smooth and served at the right temperature.

Even though I had planned to just have a couple of snacks and drinks at the bar, I ended up being tempted by dessert. More specifically the chocolate mousse with raspberry coulis ($7). When it arrived, it actually looked like a slice of chocolate cake, but when you scooped it up, it was like whipped chocolate cream and tasted so rich and light at the same time. This dessert, made from Ghirardelli chocolate of course, was so good that I had to share it with the bartender and the couple sitting next to me so that they wouldn’t think I was making those weird “mmmm” noises for no good reason. They all agreed that it was perfection.

The overall Marché on the Square leaves a lot to be desired, and maybe it’s just a reflection of the rush to open. Hopefully over time Crawford will focus on the specialty items on the shelves and bring more products for sale to create more interest in the market instead of just the restaurant and bar.

As for the restaurant and bar, the food is acceptable and it’s a nice option for a drink if you’re in the area. I would definitely go in the afternoon for some of that chocolate mousse and a glass of Merlot and that would be a good day.

Marché on the Square, at Ghirardelli Square, 900 North Point, San Francisco. Market open 9 a.m. to 10 p.m., wine bar open 11 a.m. to midnight, Bar Marché open for lunch (10 a.m. to 2 p.m.) and dinner (5 p.m. to midnight). PH: 415.359.0365. Web site: marcheonthesquare.com

Tuesday, July 22, 2008

Dish on Dining: Binh Minh Quan

Discovering the Many Tastes of South Vietnam
338 12th St. (near Webster), Oakland
North of Chinatown
PH: 510.893.8136
Open daily, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Reservations, major credit cards accepted


I feel lucky that there are a number of options for a bowl of Vietnamese pho in Oakland’s Chinatown. But if you’re interested in finding out how Vietnamese food goes beyond the ubiquitous soup noodles, then you have to head to Binh Minh Quan.

Binh Minh Quan is a tiny restaurant that’s away from the pack. In fact, it’s north of Oakland’s Chinatown a few doors down from the corner of 12th and Webster Streets. (It sometimes gets eclipsed by another large Vietnamese pho shop right at the corner.) Looking from the outside, you might think it’s another dive, but walk in and you discover this nicely decorated Vietnamese oasis.

The restaurant went through renovations more than two years ago when owner Jenny Tang took over operations from her mother. Tang gave the place a classier vibe, with its brightly colored walls, ambient lighting and Vietnamese artifacts hanging on the walls.

The clientele is a mix of races and ages who come for the wide selection of Southern Vietnamese dishes on the menu. More than 130 items are listed, ranging from rice plates, pho, salads, noodles, porridge, fire pots (just like hot pots cooked at your table) and seafood. Binh Minh Quan is not your standard pho noodle joint. (There are only about a dozen soup noodles listed, and not all are pho.) Still, it attracts a steady crowd during the weekday lunch.

That’s when I visited the first few times, on my search for something to eat down in Chinatown during my lunch hour. I made the detour to Binh Minh Quan (which saves me about four blocks of walking to the heart of Chinatown) and tried these dishes:

Còm Tay Câm Thâp Câm (Combination in Clay Pot), $6.98. This is one of the nine lunch specials, served from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. on weekdays only. I’m a fan of clay pot rice dishes, so I tried this version that came with a mix of pork slices, chicken, shrimp, squid and broccoli. When it arrived, I was disappointed because just looking at it I could tell that it was a pedestrian effort. None of the ingredients looked necessarily unusual and it basically looked like a stir-fry dish over rice served in a clay pot. (I have yet to find a clay pot that matches the one made at Xyclo on Piedmont Avenue in Oakland.) I also didn’t feel the ingredients were anything special, so that’s when I learned not to order any of the lunch specials and stuck with the regular menu.

Bún Gà (Vermicelli with Grilled Chicken), $5.98. Another standard lunch dish I typically order at Vietnamese restaurants is the bún, or cold vermicelli rice noodles served with some protein and a mix of vegetables and herbs. I ordered the grilled chicken bún and it was a nice medium-sized bowl (slightly smaller than what’s served at other spots). Still, the chicken was freshly grilled and tender, and I enjoyed the mix of carrot strips, daikon shreds, cucumber, mint and bean sprouts. The combined taste was good and satisfying.

Side note: I really love all the dinnerware used by Binh Minh Quan. It really adds a nice touch to the overall eating experience.

Hú Tién/Mì Thâp Câm (Combination Noodle Soup), $6.98. On a third visit for lunch, I decided to order a pho dish and got the combination special that includes shrimp balls, shrimp, squid and pork slices. (Other selections include the standard beef pho or one with snails.) Surprisingly, the pho at Binh Minh Quan is served with all the ingredients already in the bowl. I’m used to pho served with an accompanying plate of fresh bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeno and limes that you add right before you eat. They do that for you at Binh Minh Quan, except the jalapeno and lime pieces are served separately for you to add. The overall dish was nice, with an excellent sweet broth and nicely cooked pho noodles. Instead of basil, the bowl came with bean sprouts, lettuce and chives already added in. I liked the fresh pieces of squid, but the thinly sliced pork was a bit chewy.

Because there’s only so much you can eat for lunch, I decided to visit Binh Minh Quan for dinner. The dinner crowd can be a bit quiet since the restaurant is away from the Chinatown scene, so I had no problems getting a table.

I contemplated getting the lâu, what they call a fire pot (just like a hot pot) where you cook your meal yourself at the table. The menu offers shrimp, catfish, goat and a mixture of everything in between. The prices range from $18.98 to $24.98 for the small pot and $23.98 to $29.98 for the large. I ended up not getting the fire pot, even though it sounded exciting (who doesn’t like playing with fire?), basically because I’m a lazy diner and I hate cooking and eating. I rather just eat.

So instead I ordered the Cá Kho Tô (Catfish Stewed in Clay Pot), $8.98. Despite my earlier poor experience with the clay pot for lunch, I wanted to try this dish which is a specialty of the Mekong Delta. One of my favorites I ate was at a restaurant in one of the towns along the delta. Binh Minh Quan’s version had a dark caramel sauce over the catfish steaks in the pot, so it was actually hard to see them. But when you bit into the white flesh, it was so light and fluffy. This was a great dish mixed with a bowl of rice.

Also for dinner I got one of the more exotic items on the menu, Éch Xào Xã Ot (Frog with Lemongrass), $14.98. Another Mekong specialty, I’m always up for a plate of pan-fried frog legs (sometimes they can taste like baby chicken wings and other times they’re slightly elastic like fish). The dish came piled with peanuts and parsley that it was hard to really see the frog legs, which were chopped into pieces. (My guess is there were four frogs chopped into pieces.) I also didn’t get a sense of the lemongrass because the legs were overpowered by fish sauce.

One common element in many of the dishes I had at Binh Minh Quan was that they were all slightly salty from a tad too much fish sauce. That was especially true in the clay pot dishes (both the one I had for lunch and the catfish). Still, the memories of the refreshing bun bowl and the tasty broth of the pho are enticing me to come back.

The dishes are all a bit smaller than what you might find elsewhere, but I don’t think you’ll find as much variety as you’ll get at Binh Minh Quan. If you’re ever hankering for authentic South Vietnamese dishes of snails, goat, frog legs, deer or boar, then you’ll probably find them here.

Single guy rating: 2.75 stars (Slightly Salty but Diverse)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Binh Minh Quan on Urbanspoon

Monday, July 21, 2008

The Next Food Network Star: Season 4, Episode 8

Vegas Odds: 1,000-to-1 on Whether This Episode Makes You Care

Previously: The final three are in Vegas for a throwdown, Paula Deen calls Lisa intense, Susie is still struggling over Aaron, Adam isn’t funny, but it’s Kelsey who is out. (And she agreed with the judges panel.) Tonight: Guy Fieri puts on a monster buffet, Adam is going down smoking, Lisa sings, and I think I just saw Diana Ross. Adam says “what?”

Opening scenes of clouds moving really fast against a Vegas skyscraper, and Adam is in his hotel bathrobe trying to wake up like an old man. Lisa is also in her robe blow-drying her hair while Aaron is already dressed and ready to go. They head to the Venetian hotel and they’re standing around waiting when a gondola comes floating under the bridge and just by the neon-white hair you know that’s Guy Fieri sitting up front. Oh, and Bobby Flay too. Lisa reminds us that Fieri is the winner from two seasons ago, but she says it like she was forced to say it, like she actually really didn’t know or care but someone had to vouch for Fieri’s star status.

Guy (you know, most people who’s first name is spelled G-U-Y pronounces it “Gee” like the French so not sure what’s up with Guy who pronounces it the way it looks) says the finalists have to do a 30-second promo written for them to promote their shows. They have to go to three different locations, and already Aaron is worrying about his camera presence.

Lisa looks all Hollywood in her sunglasses sitting in that white limo. She arrives at Aureole, the Charlie Palmer restaurant at the Mandalay Bay Hotel. (I always loved the name of the Mandalay. I would tell my friends that I would name my dog Mandalay if I got one.)

She’s greeted by Guy (or Gee) standing in front of this huge wine tower, which Guy says the “wine angels” go up and down every night to retrieve bottles for guests. So Lisa has to do her promo attached to cables going up the glass wine tower. I guess she’s afraid of heights, but it sounds like she gets a free ride without having to go to Disney World so I really don’t know what she’s complaining about.

She actually looks like she’s doing a Mission Impossible-kind of promo, with her all-black outfit. What’s throwing me off is she’s talking like she’s flirting with the camera, which I think makes her come off kind of slutty. She flubs a few lines and gets frustrated, and Guy calls time and says they have to make the best of it and let the judges decide how the promo came out.

Now we’re at Planet Hollywood with Aaron and Bobby Flay, and Bobby says they’re filming the promo right on the casino floor. Bobby does a quick demo of the script and he’s as smooth as butter, as usual. I mean, he’s a pro already. Then Aaron does the same, but he comes off a bit awkward, plus he has to talk and walk at the same time which is hard, I guess? But on his second try, he actually nails it and comes off really relaxed and friendly. Nice job.

They switch to the crap table (or is it craps? I know it’s not a crappy table) and Bobby gives directions again. Bobby is actually much more helpful in these promos than Guy, who comes off a bit unhelpful and borderline critical. Aaron, with Bobby’s help, nails this portion too after a few takes (even though it really looks like a cheesy commercial for Cache Creek or some other casino). Aaron’s so happy that he raises his arms in celebration, and oops, someone forgot to wear deodorant. Good thing they already stopped filming.

The last promo to be filmed is Adam at Bally’s Hotel. He’s going to work with two show girls from the Jubilee Theater, which Guy tells us is the longest-running show on the Vegas strip. Adam changes into a tuxedo, and he really looks like he should do a tap dance. A choreographer gives him a quick lesson on the steps (which is really just walking down the line with his legs matching the girls, duh). You’d think Adam would be smooth, but he comes off a bit forced and awkward. And again, after a few takes, Guy gives up and says they have to edit the promo the best they can.

The three contestants arrive at the Wynn Hotel, which looks amazing. It’s really magical with all the Christmas lights and everything. Guy’s there to greet them. What’s up with his white framed sunglasses behind his head? Does he have eyes back there? It’s kind of annoying me. But it may be because I’m tired from the weekend. (I later caught a glimpse of Guy’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives show and he had the same look with the white sunglasses behind the back of his head. Ugh, no wonder I don’t watch that show.)

Guy tells the three that they will have to make an over-the-top monster buffet to impress Wynn’s finest chefs and some Vegas entertainers. Plus, they also have to entertain the entertainers. (I’m really getting tired of how there’s equal emphasis on food and presentation. I mean, they’re already stressed trying to put together the food, what’s up with the personality tests? You don’t see this on Top Chef. I feel really cranky pants this week.)

The three have six hours to plan, prep and cook their monster buffet and a budget of $1,000—the most they’ve spent on any challenge. They run off to Whole Foods, and you know, I don’t know how many people they’re supposed to cook for. But everyone’s buying cartloads of food, especially Aaron who has two carts (much of it filled with cans).

Lisa buys a bunch of monk fish for a picatta dish, and as she’s organizing her cart, a package falls off as she rolls away. The cameraman takes a moment to zero in on the lonely package sitting on the floor of the Whole Foods. (BTW, you’d think Lisa would stop and wonder why the cameraman is no longer following her and why he’s focusing on a big brown package on the floor. … I hope someone found it soon because that fish isn’t going to smell pretty after awhile.)

They’re at the Tryst Hotel where they’re going to cook and serve their food. Guy introduces their sous chefs, which of course are the recently rejected Kelsey, Shane and Jennifer. The other three cheer when seeing their long-lost friends. They drew numbers to see who gets to pick first, and Lisa goes first by picking Kelsey. Adam chooses Shane and Aaron gets Jennifer.

Everyone starts cooking in the kitchen, and now I find out that they’ll be serving 50 guests. That’s a lot of people. Adam is making a lot of his own specialty food with a barbeque-smoke theme, so lots of chicken wings, pork chops and fritters.

Aaron is going with simple family-style food like sirloin bruschetta, orzo salad, chicken bow tie pasta. Lisa is going for her pretty foods of monkfish piccata, pork rack and twice-baked potatoes.

Adam is busy building a smoker with some chips he bought at Whole Foods and a couple of woks. He says that if he goes down, he’ll go down smoking.

Lisa realizes that she’s missing her fish, so now she’s in panic mode trying to come up with smaller portions of her fish dish.

Guy comes in for his kitchen visit (and he’s wearing his sunglasses which is weird because he’s indoors, but I guess it’s better than flipped behind his head) and he chats up Aaron. They talk about some boring thing about having too many pasta dishes. I’m really not impressed by Guy’s appearance on this episode. He doesn’t even talk to the other two finalists, although that could have been edited out because it was so boring. I’d go with that.

The contestants start plating, and they really didn’t show much of Shane and Jennifer at work. It’s mostly Kelsey and Lisa, and with good reason because it looks like Lisa’s pork rack is totally charred. Lisa gets busy by scraping the black bits off the pork and quickly dresses it up with some cherry tomatoes and bowl of marmalade. She’s a quick decorator. Must be the caterer in her.

The three stand behind the buffet stations waiting for the guests, and in comes a wedding couple, the cast of Spam-a-Lot, some pirates, some gondoliers, Joan River, Cher, Diana Ross (all impersonators, BTW), and supposedly a well-known entertainer named Danny Gans? (Never heard of him.) Also coming for the monster meal are the judges: Bob Tuschman, Susie Folgelson, Bobby Flay and Guy Fieri. Picking up the tail is a bunch of men in white coats. I’m assuming these are the Vegas chefs.

Lisa does her presentation first and she starts singing “welcome my friends to my beautiful buffet.” She has a really nice, deep voice with a bit of a country twang. I mean, she’s no Carrie Underwood, but could be a good Shania Twain impersonator. The crowd is impressed. And so is Bob Tuschman, who gives off a “wow” after Lisa’s done singing.

Then Aaron comes up and initially I thought he was cute trying to play this extremely shy and awkward, almost-Dustin-Hoffman-in-“Rain Man”-kind of character. But then it gets really strange and borderline psychotic when he starts calling people crazy and acts almost like a used car salesman. It’s not pretty, and Adam points out how not pretty this all is.

So you’d think after that Adam could just recite the alphabets and he’ll come off looking good after Aaron’s debacle. Instead, he just plays it straight and after a loud “hello VEGAS” he just starts describing his food. It’s all bland and boring.

The Vegas people start eating. One guy tells Aaron that he’ll give his food an eight, which Aaron replies “ouch” because he needs a 10. The Spam-a-lot knights seem to love Lisa’s singing, while Danny Gans says he felt uncomfortable listening to Aaron’s presentation.

The judges try Lisa’s burnt pork, and Guy says the pork is dry while Bob Tuschman says his is really moist. A bunch of the other guests are raving about Adam’s food, especially the Banana Foster dessert. You know, not to take anything away from Adam, but I wonder how much Shane had to do with the quality of the food coming out? I think Shane is always an expert chef, so I wonder if he really helped make sure Adam’s menu was executed well? Hmmmm.

The three are now at Caesar’s Palace (how many hotels do we have to visit in one episode?) and it looks like it’s the next day because they look like they’re just waking up. They arrive at the elimination room to meet the panel of judges, which includes Guy Fieri this week.

The judges watch their promo and do a critique of the buffet menu and here’s how it went down:

Aaron: His promo was surprisingly polished and engaging, and Bob Tuschman says he had “winner’s energy.” But he took a big risk in his performance for the buffet and he bombed. Bob was also bored with the level of food that Aaron turned out although he liked the crab cakes.

Lisa: The promo looked better than when she was taping it but it still seemed a bit awkward. Bob gets all “Dr. Phil” on her and says her biggest competition is herself. Susie compliments her on her voice and Bobby thought her food was incredibly elegant, although Guy reminded everyone that he got a dried piece of pork.

Adam: Susie says his promo balanced his sense of humor but Guy thought he didn’t seem prepared during the buffet presentation. Bobby tells him that his bone-in pork was declared the winning dish by the Vegas guests, which gets Adam a bit ferklempt because he feels vindicated that real chefs (including Bobby Flay) like his cooking. Bob says Adam this week settled all questions about whether he could cook or not and Adam feels awesome.

The three are excused while the judges deliberate and you can tell that everyone has their favorites. Bobby likes Lisa as the total package, and Tuschman likes Adam while I bet Susie likes Aaron. Guy doesn’t really count since he hasn’t been judging from the beginning, so I actually thought it was unfair for him to comment on the fact that Adam is inconsistent when he’s never seen Adam when his cooking was bad.

The judges do that stupid thing where they say they want to take a piece of all three and mold it into the perfect Food Network star, but you know that’s not going to happen. At this point as they go into commercials with previews of what’s coming up and Bob says something about doing something “we’ve never done in the history of this show,” that’s when I knew it. They’re going to wimp out and send all three to the finals.

So basically, when we come back from commercial, that’s what Susie tells all three, and of course all three are excited because they rather compete against two other people than risk the chance that one of them has to be sacrificed to get to the final elimination.

That means all three goes back to New York for the final episode. And if you feel cheated that no one has been eliminated, leaving no one for Adam Roberts to interview for his exit show, then wait to you hear about next week.

Next: Gordon Elliot is working with the three finalists, and you know what? We find out who wins on Sunday. But I’m so confused because the last few years America voted for the winner. So if there’s no balloting on the Food Network site, then how are we supposed to choose? How can they announce the winner next Sunday? Shouldn’t there be another week of voting? And don’t give me any crap about this being a “live” show. WTF?! This is cranky pants, signing off.

Here's a preview video to see what I mean:




The Next Food Network Star airs at 10 p.m. Sundays and repeats at 9 p.m. Thursdays, but the last episode is this Sunday and then I will have my Sunday nights back for some peaceful watching of THE BEST SHOW IN AMERICA, “Mad Men” on AMC. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.


Sunday, July 20, 2008

Guess Where I Ate This?

COMING UP THIS WEEK
It's going to be a busy week for me because I have to travel for work in the middle of the week, which I hate because my work travel is always just down to Pasadena in Southern California and it's always for a really short time like a day or two, so I never get time to explore. But let's see if I can squeeze a food visit in. Also this week:

1) My regular recap of The Next Food Network Star comes Monday night. Just two more episodes before the winner is announced!

2) I review the Binh Minh Quan Restaurant in Oakland, which has a lot of Vietnamese dishes to choose from.

3) Discover my latest tea find, and I blog about my visit to a new food spot where I ate the chocolate dish above. Mmmmm. Want a hint where? All I can say is that the chocolate dessert is made with Ghiradelli chocolate. ;-)

Friday, July 18, 2008

What's In My Frig?

Occasionally you might see me blog a recipe that calls for just half a sweet onion. I’m the Single Guy, so that means my recipes don’t call for a lot of any one ingredient.

With half an onion bulb in my frig, I often end up having to make another dish that might require onions. Let’s say, a risotto perhaps. Or maybe the base for a tomato sauce, maybe? But this week, after using half a red onion for a small pot of chili, I decided to turn the remaining half into pickled onions.

I made this the first time when I was competing in last year’s Turkey Cook-Off at the San Francisco Chronicle. It was pretty easy, and a nice complement to any rich-tasting food. (In the Chronicle competition, the pickled onions topped off a plate of green beans cooked into bacon fat.) This time I did it from memory and you know I don’t have a good memory so I’m sure I missed a few steps. It still turned out fine.

The trick is having a mandolin so you can thinly slice the onion. Then I just placed the slices in a jar with 2/3 cup red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoon of sugar, a pinch of kosher salt and a ¼ cup of water. (You have to use red wine vinegar to give it that nice pink color, or else it’ll just look sad.) Then I just let it marinade in the refrigerator, and now I use it as a garnish for other dishes or for my pulled pork sandwiches. It’s also very pretty to look at when I open my frig.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Dish on Dining: Koi Palace

Dim Sum Gem Still Going Strong
365 Gellert Ave., Daly City
Serramonte Plaza
Open daily for dim sum lunch and seafood dinner
PH: 650.992.9000
Major credit cards, reservations (primarily large parties and dinner) accepted
www.koipalace.com


Koi Palace in Daly City is my go-to dim sum tea house whenever I have out-of-town guests. The bustling crowds, the dramatic surroundings, and of course the variety of exquisite dim sum paraded fresh from the kitchen makes this one of the best dim sum restaurants in the Bay Area.

I have to qualify the above statement by saying that since I got rid of my car, I haven’t been able to really try other new dim sum places around the Bay Area, especially new ones in the emerging Chinese community in Dublin or along the Peninsula. Still, after a recent visit, I feel comfortable in saying Koi Palace still pleases. You can’t go wrong if you’re looking for authentic dim sum and some off-the-wall creations.

Hidden in the back of the main road and a few yards away from the Serramonte Shopping Center, Koi Palace has received so many positive reviews that it’s no longer a real hidden treasure. Just follow the cars circling around the area looking for parking and you know you’re near.

I recently went to Koi Palace for dim sum with my friend Sylvia, who is from the Bay Area but now lives in my old neighborhood of Park Slope in Brooklyn. She had a craving for dim sum, and after some toying with the idea of trying someplace different, we decided to go with the tried and true.

We arrived at about 11:15 a.m. and—despite the large crowd—were told that it would just be a 10-minute wait for a table for two.

Getting a table is a real sport in itself. After renovations expanded the restaurant a couple of years ago, Koi Palace has a computerized system that prints out tickets with your number and the number in your party. I feel this is a more organized and fair way of handling the crowds, but it’s still prone to human interference.

For example, as we waited for our table and the 10 minutes stretched to about 30 (you have to build in a long wait time when going for good dim sum), our No. 71 was called. But as we made our way to the front, tripping over people sitting on chairs all along the way, another party of 3 with the No. 70 argued that they should get the table of 2 before us. So basically they pressured the hostess to squeeze three into a table for two.

By the time we got to the front, the hostess was already gone and so was our table. The lesson? Hang out near the hostess no matter how crowded because you don’t want to have your table stolen.

A few minutes later we were able to get a table behind the mini stage and near the kitchen. In most restaurants you don’t want to be seated near the kitchen because of the constant traffic back and forth. But at a dim sum tea house, it’s the most prime spot to get fresh, hot dishes right under your nose.

That was the case with the first item we snagged from the many dim sum servers carrying trays (there are more trays circling the room than carts because of the tight quarters). We got the pineapple buns, which actually is a dessert because it’s really a pastry.

Koi Palace’s pineapple buns (the name comes from the pineapple-like design on the top of the bun) are incredible because they’re filled with sweet custard, and I love custard. Because these were fresh from the kitchen, they were warm and so satisfying. (Sylvia was so excited to try the buns that she snatched one before I took the picture, so that explains why there’s only two when you typically get three on the plate.)

The waiters give you an order sheet that lists some of the more popular dim sum dishes. So you can mark the ones you want and hand that to your waiter to make sure you don’t miss one of your favorites coming around on the trays. The menu lists the standard dim sum like siu mai and baked char siu buns, but also the house specialties like coffee-flavored spareribs and roasted duck and cucumber wraps.

We started marking the menu but trays and trays of food kept coming that in the end we just ordered what was circulating. Here’s a look of what else we ate:

Black Bean Spare Ribs. I find this dish a bit difficult to eat because, 1) it takes a master to pick up the tiny, slippery rib pieces with your chopsticks and 2) sometimes you get more bone than meat per bite. Still, Koi Palace’s version had so much flavor that we didn’t want to pass it up. And they had several pieces with a nice bit of meat on the bone. (Pictured in the back is the Sticky Rice Chicken wrapped in lotus leaf.)

Sticky Rice Chicken Wrapped in Lotus Leaf. This is one of my favorite and here’s how it looks after I unwrapped the lotus leaf, which really infuses the sticky rice with that herbal flavor of the leaf when this dish is steamed. The filling has an assortment of chicken, Chinese sausage, shitake mushrooms and preserved duck egg, making this one of the best version I’ve had in awhile. The problem with eating this first (and the pineapple buns which are really dessert) is that Sylvia and I were already getting full. I know, bad planning.

Seafood Jook (Porridge). This is a popular breakfast dish, which is white rice that’s been boiled with broth until it turns into a porridge. A lady comes around with a cart with two varieties of jook, and we got the seafood version. The single order was filled to the rim and topped with roasted peanuts, bits of deep-fried airy dough, and green onion. The jook had a lot of fresh seafood bits in it, but both Sylvia and I agreed that the jook itself was on the bland side. Still, this is real comfort food and perfect if you have an upset stomach or a hangover. (FYI, we didn’t have either.)

Mystery Dumplings. OK, there are some things in the dim sum world that I just don’t know. This is one of them. They weren’t officially called mystery dumplings, I just don’t know what they’re officially called. The woman came by and I thought she said it was a crab dumpling (she was speaking Cantonese), so I ordered it. But when we ate it, it was filled with an intense savory herbal-like ingredient that was maybe dried scallops and bamboo shoots? This was my least favorite of the dishes we got.

Shrimp and Chives Dumpling. These dumplings were much better, a Shanghai-style dumpling filled with big chunks of shrimp and diced chives that are slightly pan-fried to give it a nice crispiness to its glutinous shell.

We ended our dim sum lunch with another dessert that I love and Sylvia never tried. It’s called dau-fu fa, which literally means “tofu flower.” My parents used to make this silken tofu-like dessert that’s really labor intensive because you have to strain the soybean milk through a bag to get out all the curds. So few dim sum restaurants serve this. And when they do, I always recommend them to friends and they often love it, just like Sylvia.

At Koi Palace, it’s served with a ginger syrup or a simple syrup drizzled on the layers of warm, silken tofu. I didn’t take a picture of this because basically you’ll just see a bowl of white tofu. It’s not the most glamorous dish, but it’s the most subtle and a nice way to end your dim sum experience.

There were so many other dishes that came by that we could have tried, but this is the problem with going to dim sum with just two people. Your choices are limited by your stomach. Still, Koi Palace still satisfied and despite the mad crowds in the front, you get more variety and unique dishes here than any other dim sum restaurants in town.

Side note: When you arrive at your table at most dim sum restaurant, you’ll be asked what kind of tea you want. You often feel the pressure to make a snap decision because the waiter always seems to need to rush off. At Koi Palace, the decision is harder because they have a variety of tea. But here are some basics to pair with your dim sum dining:

Oolong: This is the basic Chinese tea that can be very dark and heavy, depending on the quality. If you’re in a high-end place, ask for the high mountain, monkey-picked versions for better quality.

Jasmine: This is my go-to tea because it’s a light black tea with the slight floral fragrance of the jasmine. Virtually every dim sum restaurant serves this.

Chrysanthemum: This is a white tea made from the petals of the chrysanthemum flower. This is also nice and light although sometimes the chrysanthemum flowers can plug up your tea kettle.

Single guy rating: 4 stars (Something for Everyone)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Koi Palace on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Chuck Siegel: The Willy Wonka of Emeryville

This past Saturday I went to one of the more popular chocolate stores in the Bay Area, Charles Chocolates in Emeryville, which was hosting an open house to mark the one-year anniversary of its chocolate café.

The factory store is owned by Chuck Siegel, who I call the Willy Wonka of Emeryville in this post because he has mad skills when it comes to chocolate and because he attracted a whole slew of adults and kids by giving out tons and tons of free chocolate. That’s right, free. For five hours. Tons of them.

Charles Chocolates is out there in Emeryville surrounded mostly by condominiums and businesses like Pixar. When I arrived after 3 p.m., its outdoor area was decorated with festive balloons and a table where kids were decorating their own chocolate lollipops.

Off to the side—mostly for the adults waiting for their kids—was a table filled with a variety of chocolate samples, from Siegel’s famous filled chocolate butterflies to his chocolate-coated nuts.

Inside a crowd of people packed the narrow café, which really didn’t look like a café on this day with all the chairs removed to make room for the crowd. Typically, you can enjoy a cup of hot chocolate while sitting along a counter behind a glass wall watching the workers in the factory making chocolates. On Saturday, everyone was crowded around Siegel, who was holding court as he talked about the finer points of chocolate making and designing. (And there were even more trays of chocolates all around this narrow passageway as well.)

I think it’s great that Siegel held the open house for the community. And I felt bad for him when I saw a few people who I would describe as chocolate hustlers taking advantage of Siegel’s generosity. These people had paper cups filled with chocolate samples and they walked away without purchasing any chocolates (on the Open House day, all chocolates were sold at a 10 percent discount).

I purchased a handful of my favorite: the Mojito hearts, which are these incredibly refreshing chocolate filled hearts that’s tart and sweet. I actually would have purchased some other chocolate flavors but the girl behind the counter wasn’t very helpful when I asked her about the Espresso Caramel, which I’ve never tried. She wouldn’t give me a taste test, which was so odd since there was free chocolate all over the place. Oh well, I was happy with my Mojito hearts, which I’m still eating as I’m writing this post.

The Web site says this open house may be an annual event. (Siegel also has a variety of other interesting chocolate events during other times of the year advertised on his site.) So save July as a time to check back for details of Charles Chocolates’ hopefully annual Open House. And buy some chocolates while you’re at it!





Charles Chocolates, 6529 Hollis St. (between 65th and 66th Streets), Emeryville. PH: 510.652.4412. Open daily, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Monday, July 14, 2008

The Next Food Network Star: Season 4, Episode 7

What Happens in Vegas Gets on the Air

Previously: Aaron gets friendly with the kids, Adam has Rachael Ray touch his food, Lisa’s disengaged and Shane is stressed out. So that means he’s the one to go home. Tonight: They’re in Vegas, baby, and there’s a throwdown. Bobby Flay wonders about using an ingredient someone doesn’t know and Paula Deen doesn’t like something.

Opening scenes of the Carriage House. Are they still in Manhattan? Why aren’t they in Vegas already? It’s the final four, and they’re all waking up and packing up for their trip. Lisa the Dallas Diva looks awful in the morning with her baggy eyes. Cheerleader Kelsey talks about becoming an expert. I hope it happens soon.

They arrive at the Southwest counter at the airport, all gathered around the ticket counter like a bunch of frat kids going like, um, you paying? No, you paying. Who’s paying? This is how you act when you travel on someone else’s dime. Then we cut to a limo and the final four are in Vegas, which is like Disney World but a whole city and not just several acres in Orlando.

The contestants are greeted by Caesar from Caesar’s Palace, and they move into their suite that really looks like some hip lounge. I could never sleep there because I’d always be looking for the DJ and my dirty martinis. Anywho, Adam is already in his bathrobe when Lisa finds a card from Bobby Flay asking the four to meet him at his restaurant, Mesa Grill.

When they go downstairs, they’re all worried that they have to do some kind of challenge at Bobby’s restaurant, but turns out all Bobby wants to do is have lunch and chat. Joining them is Paula Deen, who’s such a big star on the Food Network that they always bring her in to meet the final few contestants and never early on. I guess she doesn’t like big groups. And BTW, I notice Giada De Laurentiis has had a minor role this season after appearing on the first episode. Last season she was all over the place critiquing everyone. Ooops, Lisa just called Paula Deen her grandma. She probably is a grandma, but I don’t think she likes to be reminded.

So for lunch they’re actually having a nice, serious conversation. No crazy jokes from Adam. No pulled-from-his-sleeves challenges from Bobby. It’s a real heart-to-heart about how to survive this food business. Paula Deen tells them the story about how she was 42 years old and started her own lunch business known as “the bag lady,” and how she was committed to doing everything she could to make it successful. I never heard this story because I skipped the Chefography feature on Deen. Now I think I should have watched it because she probably did have a very inspirational life. I like these late-in-life success stories because it means there’s hope for me yet! Ha!

During their talk Dallas Diva is really quiet, and Bobby asks her why. She says she just can’t talk because she’s overwhelmed by the experience. You know, Lisa’s too emotional for TV. She gets overwhelmed easily and that just freezes her. Don’t get me wrong, I think it’s great that she’s emotional and has feelings, but she needs to control them more. I don’t want to watch a show with someone who’s constantly crying. Or maybe that would be good TV?

It’s the next day and Bobby greets the final four outside Caesar’s Palace. He announces that there’s going to be a Throwdown (just like his show) but without Bobby surprising anyone, no helpers, and no days to plan or experiment in the Food Network test kitchen. They have to cook their signature dish and do their own spin on their partner’s signature dish all in 75 minutes. I think that’s crazy, but I think all the challenges have been crazy so far this season.

Since they’re in Vegas, Bobby says they have to also do interviews while they’re cooking with Extra host Dayna Devon. Watching them are the panel of judges, Bob Tuschman, Susie Folgelson and Paula Deen.

The first throwdown challenge is between the Dallas Diva and Adam Take Me Serious Gertler. Lisa’s signature dish is a cassoulet (a slow-cooked dish with white beans) and Adam’s is Mac n’ Cheese. (Remember, they both have to make their own version of the other person’s dish, so that means Adam has to make a cassoulet.)

They start cooking and Lisa says Adam is like chaos in the kitchen. But she’s like a food processor on high the way she cuts and dices like a fast-moving robot. The judges are asking them questions at the same time to throw them off. Paula calls Lisa “intense” but Lisa says she can warm up when she actually has her own show and doesn’t have to worry about doing stupid, jacked-up challenges.

The contestants also have to make their signature dishes fancier since they’re in Vegas, so Adam says he’s going to add lobster to his Mac n’ Cheese, which I’ve never heard of but am so tempted to try right now.

Commercials. That Kenmore Elite refrigerator is as big as my bathroom. Me sad.

I just saw Adam squirt Siracha hot sauce into his Mac n’ Cheese. Now that Extra blond woman comes over to interview Adam. He goes back and forth doing things and isn’t really looking at Dayna, which Judge Bob notices. When Dayna interviews Lisa, she’s really hyper and keeps talking and talking. Hey, I didn’t know Lisa had her own apron line?

Time’s up and Lisa does a dance. This is the first time I’ve seen her so happy after a challenge. Maybe she’s dancing because she didn’t slip and drenched her expensive blouse or no one cracked a bottle of sauce over her stove top?

The judges taste the food and they like Adam’s Mac n’ Cheese with lobster. Even Paula Deen says she usually hates lobster Mac n’ Cheese at restaurants but she really liked Adam’s. Susie says he rocked it, and Adam’s feeling pretty confident. And he’s really smiling a lot which I haven’t seen him do the last few episodes.

They try Lisa’s Mac n’ Cheese, which she spiced up with a poblano chile. Bobby Flay says it’s not a traditional Mac n’ Cheese and the cheese flavoring tastes muddy (because she added goat cheese). Paula Deen was brutally honest and she says she didn’t like it at all. In fact, she says she hated it. Ouch. Honesty can cut like a knife.

Now the cassoulet. Lisa added duck confit for more flavor to her recipe since they’re in Vegas. Adam says it was his first time making it and he just threw in a bunch of different kinds of sausages for flavor.

Paula, probably feeling a bit guilty about hating Lisa’s Mac n’ Cheese, says the flavors are wonderful in her cassoulet. And yep, Lisa is near tears. Tuschman says it’s a masterful dish, and Bobby Flay says it’s the best cassoulet he’s ever eaten. Ever. That means everywhere in Spain. Everywhere in France. At every Michelin starred restaurant. Those must be some tasty beans.

For Adam, they all agree it tasted like bean porridge and Susie says it’s obvious a beginner made it. Double ouch.

Commercials. I hate shampoo that smells like you should eat it. So no thanks, Herbal Essences. Pack your fruity shampoo and go.

Next throwdown is Teddy Bear Aaron vs. Cheerleader Kelsey. Their signature dishes: Aaron’s stuffed pork loin and Kelsey’s chicken parmigiana.

Kelsey is taking the first few minutes thinking (and talking to herself) about how she’s going to Vegas-up her dish and Aaron’s pork loin. She decides to counter Aaron’s “Go Big” attitude and make petite, dainty food, like they serve at restaurants and charge you and arm and a leg for (that’s right Coi, you know I’m talking about you). Gosh, Kelsey sure looks small next to that pot of liquid.

Aaron isn’t really a multi-tasker. Whenever the judges ask him things, it seems to stump him or make him stop in his tracks to chat instead of cooking. Right now he’s making his pork dish and plans to make a whole bunch of sides. Um, Aaron, I would focus on finishing the two dishes before worrying about sides.

Bobby Flay asks Aaron what’s a chipotle, and I don’t really know how that came up and in who’s recipe that’s in. But I guess Aaron wanted to spice up the Vegas version of his pork dish by adding chipotle, but he doesn’t know what it is. Bobby throws the question out to the universe and of all people, Adam replies that it’s a smoked jalapeno. Who knew? Oh, I guess Adam did.

Adam and Lisa are more chatty as observers than when Kelsey and Aaron were in the peanut gallery. So Adam is interviewing that he thinks Kelsey is taking a big risk because she’s using pork tenderloin instead of regular pork loin in replicating Aaron’s dish. Lisa is yelling out time, almost like trying to make Aaron cook faster.

That Extra woman comes back and interviews the two. Aaron seems to tense up talking to the reporter, while Kelsey does the fatal mistake of talking about how she learned a technique IN CULINARY SCHOOL. Argh, they cut to a shot of a very unhappy Bob Tuschman, and Kelsey knew she slipped up and wishes she could go back in time. Bob probably wants to send her back to culinary school.

There’s 20 minutes left and Aaron hasn’t started his chicken parmigiana. And I don’t understand why Lisa is standing next to him and not saying anything but looking really stressed for him.

Aaron realizes that he paid so much attention to his signature dish that now he only has 18 minutes to make Kelsey’s dish. He starts pounding some chicken breasts and deep fries them. Just five minutes to go. Kelsey looks at her pork, and it’s overcooked. She doesn’t look happy. Paula thinks Kelsey nailed the interview with the Extra host, though. Just a minute to go and they’re all rushing, well mostly Kelsey.

For the tasting, Kelsey says she Vegas-ized her chicken dish by putting them on skewers. Huh? Really? Aaron made garlic cream sauce and spicy marinara to make the chicken parmigiana dish his own. Bobby liked Kelsey’s sauce, but he wanted the chicken to be part of the sauce. Bob agrees that the sauce was good, but wanted the chicken more moist. Paula thinks it would make a fabulous appetizer.

Bob really likes Aaron’s 20-minute chicken parmigiana, saying it was “soul satisfying.” Paula Deen says it was hearty, which means she’s glad she got a lot of it. (You can bet Paula Deen wouldn’t be happy with the serving sizes at Coi, either!)

Aaron’s pork loin is piled high with honey Dijon and a chipotle glaze. Kelsey described her pork as “fancy shmancy,” which I haven’t heard since, um, last season with Amy. Bobby Flay says Aaron’s dish is delicious while Kelsey’s dish looks like a restaurant plated dish, which normally would be good but goes against Kelsey’s everyday cook approach. Paula says she wanted more food from Kelsey.

Commercials. That Holiday Inn Express commercial about its new breakfast bar is pretty funny. Those guys are stupid funny. I actually would have sent bacon over to the girl because I think all girls like bacon, am I right ladies? I think the girl saying she likes yogurt is a lie.

Judgment time. The contestants never really got to gamble at the tables, huh? Well, they do a group hug but it’s mostly Aaron squeezing the hell out of all of them.

Bob Tuschman says Vegas is a hot spot for food and entertainment, but also a place for high stakes. Susie sure has a lot of hair today, and it looks a bit messy more so than normal.

Susie says she’s surprised Lisa focused on her cassoulet and didn’t worry about making a good Mac n’ Cheese. She says her intensity wasn’t very welcoming, and it might scare off viewers. I agree.

Bob says Adam didn’t seem gracious to the Extra lady, and that he needs to bring back some personality. I can see why the contestants are always confused. No funny Adam. Yes funny Adam. No funny Adam. Yes funny Adam. Make up your mind already, my poor man Adam is having bipolar issues because of it!

Susie says Kelsey compromised on her point of view by going the fancy shmancy route with the dishes she made. Everyone loved Aaron’s cooking, but Susie says he still looks like he’s struggling with the on-camera performance. Bobby says he shouldn’t use chipotle if he doesn’t know what it is. And of course Tuschman points out to Kelsey that he heard her reference to CULINARY SCHOOL.

Now they each have to evaluate themselves and this is what they had to say:

Lisa: I need to meld my professional side with how I cook for friends and family. And maybe I should change my hair?

Adam: I need to work on my organizational skills and bribe the producers to make Paula Deen one of the final judges because grandma loves me.

Kelsey: I have to stop over-thinking the way I cook and just cook like I did IN CULINARY SCHOOL.

Aaron: I’m a slow learning but eventually I will get an A. And if not, then I’m going to get my bad self into somebody’s chipotle-loving face.

Commercials. Those guys are crazy for hot pockets. Eating it every day sounds dangerous to me no matter how real it tries to make itself to be. Plus, I bet they burn the roofs of their mouths all the time.

The judges discuss each contestant one by one, going over the pros and cons. Susie says Lisa doesn’t act real and have no charm. Bob says Aaron has “mad talent” when cooking but is struggling on camera while Kelsey is inexperienced but very good in front of camera. Susie says Adam has a cute and strange likeability but she feels like Adam’s learning to cook “on our dime” (which really means the Food Network’s dime). Bob doesn’t trust his food passion.

They bring the four back in the room, and Aaron looks really mad. Susie names the first finalist to stay and it’s Aaron, who now looks like he’s going to cry, then smiles. He’s a mad mix of emotions today. Then Bobby says Dallas Diva is safe and she looks like she’s ready for a fight.

The two leave the room, which leaves Adam and Kelsey. I like them both and even Kelsey’s perkiness has grown on me. I like her more than Lisa, but I guess Lisa’s food probably tastes better although I can’t say that for sure. Bob Tuschman says pretty much the same thing, saying they’re both likeable personalities but Adam moves on, which means Kelsey can go back to CULINARY SCHOOL. (You saw that coming, eh?) Kelsey congratulates Adam and says he deserves to be there, which is very gracious of her.

As she hugs everyone goodbye, Kelsey says she’s glad she’s leaving with the image as a nice person for America, and Aaron says he could have told everyone that. Awww. They all really do like each other at this stage. Although I noticed Lisa wasn’t really in the mix. In fact, I think she’s eating candy, maybe chocolate. Adam is interviewing about how the elimination was like his fifth, or maybe seventh, wake up call. He looks like he’s been crying. Aaron is dabbing his eyes with a handkerchief. See, even big boys cry.

Next week: The rejects come back as sous chefs, Lisa’s rack of lamb totally gets burned, and there’s a weird show with Adam as the ring master. And Susie says something happened that’s a first in the history of “The Next Food Network Star.” Yeah, I believe that like how I believe that it’s “the most dramatic rose ceremony ever.”

See if you can get any hints in the video preview below:


The Next Food Network Star airs at 10 p.m. Sundays and repeats at 9 p.m. Thursdays. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.

Saturday, July 12, 2008

Fro-yo from The North: Yogen Früz

There are so many frozen yogurt shops opening up these days, I’m starting to get fro-yo burnout. Isn’t the fro-yo trend over already?

It seems like every time I turn the corner, I see a different frozen yogurt shop with its bright colors, contemporary design and the promise of a creamy fro-yo cup. That’s what happened when I was at the Embarcadero in San Francisco and noticed Yogen Früz with its smiley face logo.

Yogen Früz is from Toronto, Canada, and has more than 1,100 locations around the world. Its location at the Embarcadero Center 3 is fairly new. It’s smaller than other fro-yo shops in town, and lacks any seating. So it’s buy, and buh-bye.

When I checked it out, the girl behind the counter told me Yogen Früz is known for its blended yogurt, where they take your choice of frozen fruits and blend it with the plain yogurt, creating this colored creation. I didn’t like the idea of frozen fruits because I thought it’ll just give the yogurt an icy texture, and I’m not a fan of the icy fro-yo.

So I got their regular frozen yogurt with toppings. They only have one flavor—plain. I got a small cup and topped it with mango. I forgot how much I paid for it (maybe around $3) but it was pretty average to what other fro-yo shops charge.

First off, the girl didn’t do a good job making the swirl. Doesn’t it look kind of like a flying piece of poop? I know, not the best imagery but that’s what came to mind. Then the fresh mango was not really that fresh, so it had this odd slimy texture to it.

OK, so the fruits could be better if I chose something more local and in season like blueberries or strawberries. What about the fro-yo? Well, it was milky and did have slight touches of iciness to it. I wouldn’t describe it as very creamy. In fact, it did have a feel of being almost watered down. It’s more the plain side than tart, which you get from the Korean-influenced fro-yo spots like Pinkberry and Red Mango.

Yogen Früz’s yogurt wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t great. I think this is why I currently feel burned out on fro-yo. After eating this cup, I’m starting to forget what’s the big fuss about fro-yo?

For you, my readers, I will still venture forward and test the many new fro-yo shops even if it kills me. I hope one day one fro-yo cup will reignite my love of frozen yogurt.

Moving forward, I’m going to provide a ranking of the fro-yo spots I’ve tried, listing them in the order of my favorites. Of course, the standings will change with each new shop I try. For now, here’s how it stands:

1. Red Mango, Palo Alto
2. Fraiche, Palo Alto
3. Icebee, San Francisco
4. Jubili, San Francisco
5. Yogurt Harmony, Berkeley
6. Yogen Früz, San Francisco

Yogen Früz, 3 Embarcadero Center, street level, San Francisco. PH: 415.627.9158, www.yogenfruz.com

Friday, July 11, 2008

Summer in a Sandwich

Nothing says summer than fresh red tomatoes and basil. We’ll be seeing a lot of this in the coming weeks at the farmers’ markets. The classic thing to do is make a Caprese salad, which is simply tomatoes, mozzarella and basil. Last year I turned it into a risotto, which I’ve made again and still find it really lovely to eat. But I also decided to try making a Caprese-inspired grilled sandwich.

I started with some Acme bread. You could try their ciabatta rolls, but I just bought a loaf of the “Upstairs” bread. I drizzled some olive oil on the sides that’ll face the inside of the sandwich and placed that side down on a hot grill pan. (You can skip this step, but I like my sandwich as crunchy as possible.) It’ll take just a couple of minutes to grill up.

Then I layered the ingredients, starting with a very thin layer of mozzarella slices, then some fresh basil leaves and then some tomato slices. (I sprinkled some sea salt or fleur de sel on top of the tomatoes for some flavor.) Then I capped it off with another layer of mozzarella. I figured the cheese helps keep the sandwich together, so I wanted cheese on both slices of bread. Who doesn’t want more cheese?

I drizzled olive oil on the outside of the bread slices and placed the entire sandwich on the hot grill pan. If you have a panini press, then even better. If not, then you have to be like me and gently flip your sandwich after a couple of minutes to do the other side. I used a spatula to help me maneuver the flip, which turned out a bit tougher than I thought given the size of the sandwich. Once I flipped it, then I used the bottom of a heavy pot to act as a press, and continued cooking for another minute.

So as you can tell, grilled cheese sandwich ala Caprese is pretty easy to make and makes a nice lunch during the summer. (Although the juices from the tomatoes can make it a bit messy.) I can’t wait to start trying this sandwich with the various heirloom tomatoes soon to hit the markets. Enjoy!

Wednesday, July 09, 2008

The Banh Mi Economy

It's finally happened. The rising cost of fuel has bumped up the price of my favorite banh mi sandwich. I typically get these crusty French baguettes with chicken and pickled vegetables at the Cam Huong take out spot in Oakland's Chinatown. Just last week, the price of a Vietnamese banh mi went up! From $2.50 to $2.75. That's right, a whole quarter! In the consistently cheap world of the banh mi, this is a major increase and a sure sign that the rising cost of living fueled by, well, high fuel costs has affected everyone. :(

Cam Huong, 920 Webster St. (between 10th and 9th Streets), Oakland. PH: 510.444.8800

Tuesday, July 08, 2008

Dish on Dining: Bar Tartine

More Than Baked Goods at This Neighborhood Bistro
561 Valencia St. (between 16th and 17th Streets), San Francisco
Mission District
PH: 415.487.1600
Open for dinner, Tues.–Sun., 6 to 10 p.m. (till 11 p.m. Thu.–Sat.), closed Mondays; brunch, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., weekends
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
www.tartinebakery.com/barTartine


People always ask me if I’ve visited the cult favorite Tartine Bakery on the edge of San Francisco’s Mission District. Apparently they failed to read this old post.

But whenever they mention the bakery (and yes, I have visited often), I always say, “you know they have a restaurant, too.” To bolster that statement, I decided I needed to try the restaurant first hand to see if it’s even worth mentioning.

So recently I found myself at the heart of Valencia Street, the block that was once the epicenter for this neighborhood’s emerging culinary reputation with the original Slanted Door leading the way. Slanted Door has moved on to the Embarcadero, but I believe restaurants like Bar Tartine are maintaining the area’s reputation as a food destination.

When strolling along Valencia Street, you might miss Bar Tartine, by the same owners of the bakery, Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt. The name isn’t prominently displayed outside the green, wooden exterior. All you see are some paper menus hanging in the windows.

You walk into this cozy restaurant with small tables on the side and a giant marble bar, which is where I claimed a seat for dinner. From the bar, you can see the tiny open kitchen. (The night I was there, I don’t think the guy behind the stove was Executive Chef Jason Fox, but I could be wrong.)

I was on the far end of the bar, next to the bread station. It’s no surprise that the restaurant has freshly baked bread lined up in this station, where the servers come and cut the bread to bring to the tables. Throughout the night it was a symphony of knives cutting into the crusty bread. It was pretty good to eat as well.

The menu reflects contemporary California cuisine of seasonal and locally sourced ingredients. It had typical offerings like duck breast and lamb, and other trendy items like sweetbreads and bone marrow.

I started with the sweetbreads, something I’ve seen popping up in many menus but have yet to try. Sweetbreads are the glands or pancreas of the animal, and are often thrown out but in some cultures are a culinary treat. I often see it deep-fried, I guess to make it more pleasing for American eaters. But since I’m not a fan of fried foods, I was glad that Bar Tartine’s sweetbreads were braised.

The Braised Sweetbread ($14) arrived with a beautiful green swirl of ramp puree and served with chunks of porcini mushrooms, sweet corn, a poached quail egg and the ubiquitous foam. I wasn’t quite sure what the flavor of the foam was, and I still don’t understand how foam adds to a dish. Beyond the foam, the sweetbreads were incredibly tender and tasty, and they were nicely counterbalanced by pickled onions and quail egg. I was also impressed that the porcinis were nice big slices so you really could appreciate them.

Next came a Baby Beet and Hearts of Palm Salad ($13). It was another beautifully plated dish that predominantly featured an assortment of baby beets, from red to golden to a mixed pink and white. I love beets so this was a surefire hit for me, with the beets complementing the goat cheese slices. The overall salad with arugula was dressed in a light vinaigrette and topped off by these interesting and innovative delicate wafer croutons. You’re probably wondering why I’m not going on and on about the hearts of palm. That’s because, while good, they seemed to play a minor role in the salad, with just small quarter-size pieces dotting the plate.

For my entrée, I went with the Potato Gnocchi with Morels ($19). It was prepared in a way I’ve never had before—naked. Meaning it wasn’t sitting in sauce or in any broth, which are the different ways I’ve had gnocchi in the past. On Bar Tartine’s menu, they were simply pan-fried, giving them a nice golden brown exterior and served with sweet corn and bits of the morel mushrooms, topped by a nice helping of grated parmesan cheese.

The gnocchi were incredibly fluffy, like little puffs of clouds. I thought the simple approach was nice and light, especially for a summer night, but I think it would have gone to another level if it had a tasty sauce—even just a drizzle—to create another layer of flavor to go with these delightfully fluffy gnocchi.

Because Bar Tartine is known for its bakery, you know I definitely had to order dessert. And I wasn’t disappointed at the nice variety of items on the dessert menu (everything priced at $8). A sign of how the dessert menu is so different is the fact that there was no chocolate cake offering, which is on every dessert menu at most restaurants.

I settled for the Tres Leche Cake, which is served in a parfait glass and is a layered creation of coconut custard and vanilla-flavored cake, topped with cream and fresh strawberries. It came with these interesting sugar-spun twisters that immediately melted in your mouth when you bit into them. Overall, the cake was good but not nearly as good as the passion fruit cake at the bakery. I especially liked the coconut custard in the dessert. The dessert reminded me a lot of a blond tiramisu, and I was thinking it would have been even better if the cake was soaked in rum.

Side note: Service at Bar Tartine is perfunctory bordering on soulless. While the greeters and bar staff were all cordial, they weren’t engaging. Near my seat at the bar, I could see how servers who didn’t have anything to do would stand by the bread station looking like guards, without a smile or friendly glance.

In the end, the food at Bar Tartine is innovative and fresh, executed with an expert hand to bring balance between the flavors of the ingredients. The dishes aren’t drenched in sauces, but instead showcase the natural flavors and features of the quality ingredients.

The restaurant has a nice neighborhood feel and is still popular after more than two years in operation. I can now confidently steer people to Bar Tartine after they’ve experienced the lines of Tartine Bakery.

Single guy rating: 4.25 stars (well worth the wait)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


Bar Tartine on Urbanspoon

Monday, July 07, 2008

The Next Food Network Star: Season 4, Episode 6

They Cook For Miss Yum-O

Previously: Aaron is not a camera person, Kelsey is burning herself, Jennifer christens the stovetop by breaking a jar on the side, and Adam is on very, very thin ice with Bobby Flay. Despite that, Jennifer’s the one sent packing. Tonight: It’s a hot hour on the Emmy Award-winning Rachel Ray show (I know, still sounds weird), Adam is still on thin ice and judge Susie Folgelson feels uncomfortable.

Opening scenes of a flock of birds flying over the river. Cool. Everyone’s getting ready and our girl Lisa sure has some big curlers in her hair considering that she wears a short bob. Adam is working on a comeback since, as we’ve stated before, he’s skating on thin ice. Aaron promises to show the real Aaron this week. I hope it’s a fun Aaron and not the easily flustered one from last week.

They arrive at the Food Network studios and are greeted by Bobby Flay! Yes, he’s going to do some work this week as host. Finally. Bobby says this week will determine the final four and their challenge is to do a four-minute food demo in a TV studio. He’s all secretive about the TV studio and instead tells the contestants to watch the monitor for a special message from a fellow Food TV colleague.

Woah, up pops up Rachel Ray. There really should be a warning when she pops up on air. I get that initial jolt every time I switch the channel and she’s on. She says they’ll be doing the demo on her talk show and in front of a live audience. It’s weird how when she says they have to “cook up” a dish, she over emphasizes those two words like it’s some kind of code. Like they’re not really going to “cook up” some dish but are going to “wink wink” cook up some dish. My theory is that Rachel Ray throws in code words throughout her shows and that’s how she’s been able brainwash millions of viewers to watch.

Bobby Flay then tells them that their dishes have to be innovative, nutritious and “satisfy a discerning palate.” All of them guess some big name chef or foodie snob, but come on. This is a reality show. I knew right away it was going to be kids because you know what, they’re picky eaters and they come cheap.

And I’m right because in comes five girls dressed up in their brownies outfits. Bobby matches them up with each contestant and the girls will act as a “consultant” in planning the menu.

So each contestant spends 10 minutes talking with the girls. Aaron has a cute girl named Michaela who’s very enthusiastic and funny. She tells Aaron that she wants him to make a double-chocolate ice cream cake. Aaron’s a trained dad, so he’s all “um, no, that’s not happening.” So he throws out pizza and Michaela eats that idea up.

Kelsey’s talking to her girl as she’s standing on a step stool and Kelsey’s excited she’s no longer the shortest person in the room. She suggests a salad but instead of vegetables it’ll be entirely made from fruits. Her partner, totally not clueless, responds, “so a fruit salad.” Sigh, they grow up so fast.

Lisa has the most odd interaction with her girl. Of course, she’s throwing out all these weird terms like hari co vert and roumalade and kitsch. Lisa says her son has a sophisticated palate, but I think it’s more Mommy Lisa forces her son to have a sophisticated palate. She does the same with her brownie buddy, suggesting that she make a steak with horseradish cream sauce and cous cous. The girl says she’s willing to try it, making Lisa squeal in excitement, hugging the girl who in her head is thinking “mommy get me outta here.”

Adam is funny with his girl, because as he observes, he’s still a child. He asks if the girl likes barbeque chicken, and who doesn’t like BBQ?

I take back my comment about Lisa having the most odd interaction with her kid. That honor now goes to Shane, who totally doesn’t seem comfortable talking to his kid. Probably because he was just a kid a few years ago and he’s remembering how they teased him for being chubby. He suggests a few things and the girl is saying no to everything. Granted, his partner does seem like the shyest girl of the bunch but Shane isn’t helping with his straight act. He needs to be more animated and funny to get her to talk to him.

Time’s up and the girls leave. (Adam is so funny when he tells his girl to “hug it out.” Love him.) The contestants start prepping their dishes. Kelsey is making a breakfast meatball sandwich with a banana boat filled with fruits and granola. She says this is what she made for breakfast every day in college. I think she’s talking about just the banana boat and not the meatball sandwich, although I bet some guys in her dorm would have eaten a meatball sandwich every day for breakfast.

Kelsey asks Lisa, who’s working in the next table, about cooking with the sausage casing. It looks like Lisa is just trying to ignore her and pretend she can’t hear her. But then again, it could also be the editing. Hard to say. If she really is pretending, that’s really silly because “hel-LO” Kelsey’s standing right next to you. If you don’t want to help, just say so instead of being a kid and playing invisible. Lisa’s kind of weird that way.

Time’s up and they pack up their food and head over to Miss Rachel’s place.

When they arrive, they’re surrounded by a lot of orange and yellow walls. Now I know this is the theme color for the show, but it really is a lot to take in sitting in a room painted in those colors. The five are sitting on stools waiting when Rachel Ray arrives to greet them. Why does her voice always sound horse? She reminds them about the same-old Food Network tip about “telling a story” and she puts in a plug for her Yum-O organization, which helps get kids to eat healthier.

The show begins and Rachel says it’s going to be one hot hour. Is she in the Bay Area? Because we’re about to get a heat wave this week. (I hate global warming.) The judges, Bobby, Bob Tuschman and Susie Folgelson, are watching remotely, probably in the green room. Although knowing Rachel Ray, I bet it’s the yellow room.

Aaron is up first and he comes out with his brownie buddy Michaela, who is such a good partner because she’s animated and fun. The four minutes begin and Aaron talks about washing hands. What? He couldn’t wash his hands before stepping onto the set? So he walks over with Michaela and turns his back to the audience while taking his sweet ole’ time washing hands. Good commercial for germ prevention. Bad on the cooking. The clock has ticked down to 3 minutes 12 seconds and he still hasn’t started talking about what he’s making. He finally rolls out a pizza dough and Bobby Flay in the back says it looks fun. He starts to brown some meat, making like a cheeseburger pizza with broccoli.

Aaron is a lot more personable once he kick started his demonstration, and even Tuschman notices, saying he likes this Aaron better. (I don’t get why there has to be some many Aarons. Can’t we pick one and just stick with that?) He brings out his cooked pizza from the oven and Michaela takes a bite and gets all excited. He’s so lucky he got this girl, she’s so good. And Aaron has 5 seconds left to just chit chat with Rachel. I’m impressed he got it all under the 4 minutes, especially since he ate a whole minute just washing his hands. Michaela takes the tray of pizza and heads off stage before Rachel wraps up. Michaela is soooo cute.

The judges do a quick critique and they all like Aaron’s fun personality. Susie says his heart is in it, and when they try the pizza, they love it.

Kelsey goes next with her brownie buddy who has a name I can’t pronounce so that means I can’t write it. Let’s just called her Brownie Betty. So Kelsey gets Rachel to start scrambling some eggs, and then gets Brownie Betty to start making the banana boat, which is really a banana split down in half. Susie in the back can’t stand to watch how Kelsey is bossing Rachel around, and at one point calls her “Rach.” So basically Rachel Ray is cooking the eggs and Brownie Betty is making the fruit yogurt thing and Kelsey is playing host in the middle talking about her dish. Bobby Flay yells into the TV, “cook the food, yo.” She eventually brings out some meatballs with spinach inside and puts together her breakfast meatball sandwich. Brownie Betty takes a bite of the sandwich and gives it a thumbs up.

Kelsey realizes that she might be in trouble because she really didn’t cook that much. Bob says Kelsey is ordering people around like she’s the host, and Susie says she had nothing interesting to say when she spoke.

Shane is up with his brownie buddy Franchesca. He’s stressed out because he feels things are out of his control (because, well, it is Rachel Ray’s show). He starts making his chicken cordon bleu and uses monster cheese, which he says is more kid-friendly than the typical swiss. Rachel likes how he shredded his cheese before stuffing it in the chicken breasts. Then he has a breading station ready but he uses rice puffs instead of breadcrumbs. Franchesca is just standing there looking lost and Rachel and Shane are talking over each other. At one point they almost have a collision when he gets his glaze to pour over the ratatouille he made as a side.

The judges taste the chicken and think it’s good, but they think Shane wasn’t very comfortable. And Tuschman is obsessed with the fact that Shane didn’t remember his brownie buddy’s name. Maybe he should have just called her Brownie Betty?

Lisa goes next with her buddy, Haley, who looks like the oldest of all the brownie girls. She starts off by saying that she doesn’t like it when people dumb-down cooking for kids, and the judges eat that up, especially Tuschman. Then she pan fries her flat iron steak and sautés some broccoli. She also made cous cous, which she tries to put off that Haley was excited to try, but I think she’s just being a good sport. But what really happens is Rachel starts to talk more and more and then Lisa just smiles and nods her head instead of engaging Miss Ray. So it looks really awkward how Rachel is now busy talking with Haley while Lisa is just cooking. It’s like she’s overwhelmed by everything and doesn’t know what to do, so she decides to just cook. To me, this is like a train wreck and the judges know it.

Susie says that Lisa is either too hyper or too disengage. She wonders if there’s a middle ground for her?

Adam is the last contestant and he’s back stage with his partner, whose name sounds like Shenasia? They show him back all stressed but the girl is all zen. On the set, Adam sparks up and starts off with a joke about how he was going to make a recipe with whip cream, chocolate and ice cream. But instead they decided to make a barbeque chicken wrap. He gets Shenasia started making a fruit kebob while he gets Rachel Ray to rip apart some cooked chicken. He’s actually doing really well and is really smooth interacting with Rachel. In the end Shenasia drizzles some sauce over her fruit kebob and takes a bite from the chicken wrap and of course she likes it. (All the girls are really good with their acting.)

Tuschman says Adam really looked like he was a guest on the show as opposed to Kelsey who acted like the host. They try the food and they say it’s tasty, although Bobby Flay gave a lukewarm “OK.” I think it’s probably nice, but not great.

All the finalists come out and Rachel Ray tells them that the final four will be going to Las Vegas, and they all get excited even though one of them won’t be going.

Back at the Carriage House, they go down for their critiques with Bobby, Tuschman and Folgelson. At least the judges are smiling this time. It goes down like this:

Bob tells Aaron that he started off shaky and made the mistake of turning his back to the audience for awhile, but he saved himself later by just having fun. Plus they liked how the pizza tasted.

Susie tells Adam that he was very comfortable and the food was good (although again I bet it was just OK). Bobby says he’s a skilled entertainer but how good is he with his food knowledge? Then Adam talks about how he hasn’t cooked for a year after his restaurant failed, and Susie and Bob looks at each other like “did we read that in the application?” Susie says he has to put the focus back on the food, and he’s a big question mark.

Bobby tells Kelsey that she gave away the key cooking demo to Rachel. Tuschman says she was like an older sister to the brownie buddy, which sounds nice but really means Kelsey looked like an older brownie. He’s still looking for authority in her.

Bob tells Shane that his chicken was delicious but he didn’t even remember Franchesca’s name. (See what I mean about Tuschman and his obsession over one detail? I bet he’ll bring it up again later.) Bob says his performance lacks joy, which is one of the harshest criticism I’ve heard. How would you like to go around being known as joyless? I mean, it’s true. But still, gotta hurt.

Susie asks Lisa how she came up with the menu and she tries to say she got the most flexible brownie, but Bobby says it seemed like she steamrolled her idea and that the final menu lacked whimsy for a kid’s menu. Then they focus on how she froze and totally didn’t continue with her demo, letting Rachel Ray do all the talking. Lisa tears up and says she didn’t want to come off domineering and admits to being a bit intimidated by Rachel, more so than when Martha Stewart was around. Susie basically asks if she can keep it together and not have an emotional breakdown and Lisa says yes.

They eventually name Aaron the winner so he’s the first to be safe and heading to Las Vegas. Then Bobby asks Adam if he’s better in cooking or better in blackjack. And Adam, afraid of the response, says he’s better in cooking. Bobby tells him, well, he better bone up on his blackjack because he’s headed to Vegas, baby. Adam nearly breaks into tears he’s so genuinely surprised. He and Aaron leave the room and start packing for Vegas.

The judges ask Shane, Kelsey and Lisa to talk about why they should be the next Food Network star, and their responses aren’t really surprising. Kelsey wants to help a newbie foodie discover the love of cooking at a young age like she did, Lisa says she knows she can do it with a bit more guidance from the judges, and Shane says he can inspire people with his technique.

They excuse the three and the judge debate a bit more. At this point, I would say Lisa is the one to go, but it looks like they think she has a lot of potential. They think Shane can cook but Bobby Flay says he hasn’t really lived enough to share enough of himself with the viewers.

The three come back to face judgment and Bobby sends Lisa to safety first. She’s so grateful she does that groveling thing where she promises to work harder. The Susie says the final four to go to Vegas is Kelsey, which means Shane is out. Kelsey looks really sad because I think she liked working with Shane (remember how they were so cute together last week?) but at least she gets to go to Vegas if they don’t card her.

Next week: They’re going to, guess where? Um, Vegas. Did you even read my recap? Paula Deen is the guest judge and there’s going to be a throwdown. Paula doesn’t like something she ate. Oh oh. I bet it didn’t have enough butter.

The Next Food Network Star airs at 10 p.m. Sundays and repeats at 9 p.m. Thursdays. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.

Sunday, July 06, 2008

Jazzy Fourth on the Streets

I capped off my Fourth of July holiday weekend today with an afternoon at the Fillmore Jazz Festival, one of the more popular street festivals in San Francisco. It was a beautiful day for some jazz and strolling the arts, and I noticed a few fun food things too.

One of the really popular booths was this Killer Baking Co. booth selling "killer brownies."

They were passing out small bits of samples of their triple chocolate brownie and mint chocolate brownie. People are crazy with the free samples. I had to squeeze in to the swarm of extended hands seeking a bit of brownie. You'd think they were magic brownies. Anywho, the triple chocolate was very moist and sweet, but you would need a cup of milk if you wanted to eat a whole bar. I ended up buying the chocolate macadamia nut brownie to take home for dessert tonight. :) The brownies ($3 each) are a nice cakey, moist, fudge-like creation. I'm sure it's not good for you with all the sugar, but it's OK once a year, right?

Gelato is a great thing to find at a street festival in the summer. Here's a cart that was from a San Francisco company with a not-so-memorable name. It was something like SF Gelato Co. or something generic like that. Right now they're only selling their organic gelato at fairs.

They sold three sorbetto flavors and five gelato, sold for $4 a cup. I got half a cup of the cantaloupe sorbetto and half of the salted caramel gelato.

The cantaloupe was kind of icy, but it had a great cantaloupe essence. I love cantaloupe flavor, so I looked passed the icy bits. The caramel was great ... very smooth and creamy and nice caramel flavor. Near the end, though, it did have an odd gritty texture on the bottom. But overall I thought it was pretty good (although I agree with you that cantaloupe and caramel are not a great pairing, but I just had to try those flavors because they're my favorites).

Here are more typical street fair food. Giant sausages (above) and grilled chicken skewers (below).


A sighting of Uncle Sam, just to wrap up this holiday weekend. Hope it was a fun one for all of you!

Saturday, July 05, 2008

Blossoming Summer Squash

Summer squash is pretty common around this time of year at the farmers' market, but this particular stand at the Grand Lake Farmers' Market in Oakland last Saturday caught my eye. This woman was selling squash with the blossom still in tact. That's so cool. Most people would chop it off, but since these are organic squash, I guess she wants to give you every bit of the squash. (Or is it zucchini?) The squash blossoms are so popular, especially for stuffing with cheese and deep-frying, that they're sold by itself at other stands. But if you buy it here, you get both the blossom and the squash!

Thursday, July 03, 2008

Free to Grill

Happy Fourth of July to everyone! So I bet a lot of you are heading to a picnic or barbeque. Um, where’s my invitation? ;-)

If I were invited, I would have brought my Tequila Lime Chicken (recipe below). I’m a big citrus person so I like the subtle twang of this chicken, and you really don’t taste the tequila because it burns off. But I feel like marinating the chicken in the alcohol helps it lock in the moisture because the chicken seemed really tender. Anywho, it can be a bit bland so I dressed it up with some sweet corn salsa since sweet corn is so plentiful during the summer. Enjoy your holiday weekend!

Tequila Lime Chicken with Sweet Corn Salsa

Copyright 2008 by Cooking With The Single Guy

Ingredients:
4 chicken breasts with skin on (about 2 lbs.)
½ cup Tequila Gold
½ cup fresh lime juice (about 5 to 6 limes)
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
3 T sugar
1 t salt
1 T Canola oil

Sweet Corn Salsa:
1 ear of fresh sweet corn
½ red onion, finely diced
1 or 2 red tomatoes, diced
½ cup cilantro, finely chopped
pinch of salt and pepper

In a bowl or zip-lock plastic bag, combined tequila, lime juice, jalapeno, sugar, oil and salt to create the marinade. Add the chicken breasts and marinate overnight.

You can also make the sweet corn salsa a day earlier. Remove corn kernels from the cobb and mix with onion, tomatoes, cilantro, salt and pepper in a small bowl. Refrigerate.

When you’re ready to cook your chicken, remove from marinade and allow any liquid to drip off. Season with salt and pepper and place on medium high grill with skin side first. Cook for about 3 minutes and then turn over to cook until chicken is done, about 15 minutes. Garnish with a slice of lime and serve with Sweet Corn Salsa. (You can also bake the chicken by placing on a rack and cooking at 400 degrees for 20-25 minutes.)

Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Pair with a glass of Voignier.

TIP: To make sure your chicken cooks evenly, you might want to butterfly the chicken if the breast is really thick. Run a knife along the side and fan open so that it isn’t as thick anymore. If you’re concerned about cooking chicken on the grill, you can precook the chicken in the oven for about 10 minutes at 400 degrees and then finish off on the grill.

MORE GRILL TIPS: Before placing chicken on the grill, rub some olive oil on the grill to help keep the chicken from sticking.

Wednesday, July 02, 2008

Can a Fruit be Angelic?

Recently, Food Gal posted pictures of these beautiful apricots and said we should rush out the door to buy them while they’re in season. And since I always like to be compliant (not), I went to my nearby Trader Joe’s in a hurried but not necessarily rush-like state.

Luckily, there was a whole counter of these yellow apricots still for purchase. They’re marketed as “Saintly” Angelcots, and they’re the creation of a Brentwood farmer who worked with Moroccan white apricot seeds until he got this pale yellow version that he named Angelcots. (Produced by FA Maggiore & Sons.)

I have to say I don’t typically eat fresh apricots, preferring the intense flavors of the dried apricots instead. I always found the flesh of a fresh apricot to have an odd meaty texture, although I do love their velvet exterior.

The Angelcots were similarly velvety, like pussy willows. And some had a beautiful blush color from the California sun. When I ate them, it was way more juicy than a typical apricot and the flesh was more like a nectarine. The sweetness is perfume-like, and I can begin to appreciate when people say they use fruits to sweeten food because these Angelcots can definitely be used as a sweetener. (Although they’re not super sweet, they can hold their own.)

While they’re not a revelation like my discovery last year of the Flavor King, the Angelcots are a nice surprise and may get me started on eating apricots again.



Tuesday, July 01, 2008

Dish on Dining: Shokolaat

Modern Bistro Accented in Chocolate
516 University Ave., Palo Alto
PH: 650.289.0719
Opened lunch, 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; dinner, 5:30–10 p.m.; closed Sundays
Major credit cards accepted
www.shokolaat.com


A few weekends ago when I was strolling along Palo Alto’s University Avenue, I discovered the elegant Shokolaat and decided to have lunch there. From the outside, with its large patio, it looked like the perfect spot to eat and people watch.

When you walk inside, you see a pastry counter that resembles a Parisian patisserie. Stroll a bit towards the restrooms in the back and you walk by a private dining area perfect for business meetings.

So is Shokolaat a bistro? A patisserie? An elegant restaurant? Well, according to its owner-chefs, it’s all of the above.

Shokolaat opened last November at the eastern edge of University Avenue. It’s the brainchild of the husband-and-wife team of Mark Ainsworth and Shekoh Moossavi. The couple has culinary ties to the Ritz-Carlton chain and now has ventured off on their own. He’s the chief chocolatier responsible for the desserts, pastries and chocolates while she’s the chef for the rest of the food.

The European-style chocolates are the showcase of the restaurant, which gets its name from the phonetic spelling of chocolate if you say it in French (you know, like the movie Chocolat).

I was actually intrigued by Moossavi’s lunch menu, which featured some unusual combinations of sustainable, organic ingredients. For example, I started with the Orange-Scented Cauliflower Soup ($7). I love cauliflower soup and wanted to see what it could be when infused with orange blossoms.

The soup arrived looking like an off-white cream soup with just a hint of orange fragrance. When I ate it, it was the first time my palate felt confused in a long while. Sometimes it was savory, sometimes it was sweet. Sometimes I liked the combination but most times I was just conflicted. The texture was good enough, with some slight cream and bits of cauliflower to remind you that it really is cauliflower soup. But in the end, it was one of those creations that seemed good on paper but not successful in real life.

For my main dish, there were a lot to choose from on the menu. From an ahi tuna salad, sea bass, pasta and an aged rib-eye hamburger. But I settled for the Lobster Salad Croissant Sandwich with avocado and micro greens ($19). It came with a side of baby greens in a lemon vinaigrette.

The overall sandwich was a bit soggy, so it was difficult to pick up. It seemed like not all of the moisture was removed from the lobster before it was mixed with a light mayonnaise because the mixture just totally dampened the croissant, which didn’t seem very flakey to start with. The lobster meat was slightly stringy, giving it more of a crab texture than lobster, and the overall taste was lacking. To put the final nail in this lose-lose situation, the dressing in the baby green salad was very tart and unbalanced.

Because I was in town to do a taste test of some frozen yogurt shops, I skipped dessert although I have a suspicious feeling that the chocolates and pastries may have been more pleasant to have on a sunny day than the lunch I just had.

Shokolaat is an amusing venture of bistro and patisserie, but its dishes lack taste or balance, giving eaters a very mixed experience. Perhaps it’s more suited as a chocolate lounge because for now its main menu looks better on paper than it tastes.

Single guy rating: 2.25 stars (pretty but average)

Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner


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