Doesn’t the title of this post sound like some operatic tale? It’s just my way to introduce two different ingredients I’ve been meaning to try for awhile and recently got around to cooking with them.
First, I’ve been fascinated by Sichuan peppercorns since I read about them in the great China Moon Café Cookbook. The China Moon Café was a fantastic Asian-fusion restaurant on Post Street in the 1980-90s. I remember having a great meal at the counter as I watched mostly non-Asian chefs creating explosive fires from their hot woks. The cookbook is a very traditional approach to Chinese cooking, and gives very explicit details of cooking from scratch. Chef Barbara Tropp talked about the fragrance of Sichuan peppercorns and I wanted to use them ever since. Of course, I searched and searched and couldn’t find them. That’s probably because for a few years after I read about Sichuan peppercorns, they were banned by the USDA because it could contain citrus canker, which attacks citrus trees.
But now they’re legal (they have to be heat-treated) and I’ve seen them popping up at all the gourmet stores. I bought a container of these beautiful rust-colored peppercorns from Whole Foods. Sichuan peppercorns aren’t really from the pepper family but are the dried berries of a prickly ash tree. I know, sounds like some myth created to make them sound more exotic. But the berries do look a bit prickly, don’t they?
BTW, I use the current Chinese national Romanized spelling of Sichuan, instead of the old spelling Swechwan. They’re both pronounced the same way. (In Mandarin, it would sound something like SUH-chwan.)
With my Sichuan peppercorn in my pantry, I decided to make a traditional steamed chicken using salt and grounded Sichuan peppercorn to season the chicken before hand. For fun, I decided to cook with a fresh poussin. Poussin, or spring chicken, seems to be a favorite in some menus lately. It’s basically a Cornish game hen, which I used to always buy frozen and made a perfect dinner for the Single Guy Chef for obvious reasons. This time I bought a fresh poussin at Bristol Farms Market at the Westfield San Francisco Centre. The recipe below is a slight adaptation of a recipe by Tropp, but with fewer steps and smaller serving size for singles. I created a ginger-onion oil that I poured over the poussin afterwards, reminiscent of a chicken dish that’s popular in Hawaii whose Chinese name basically translates to mean “onion-oil chicken.” It’s served cool, but this version is served warm. Enjoy!
Friday, June 29, 2007
The Poussin Meets the Sichuan Peppercorn
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Steamed Poussin with Ginger-Green Onion Oil
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
1 Poussin or Cornish game hen (about 1 lb.)
½ T kosher salt
½ T grounded Sichuan peppercorns
1 T fresh ginger, minched
1 T green onion or spring onion, finely chopped
3 T sesame oil
Clean your chicken, snipping off the wing tips and tail. Season with salt and Sichuan peppercorn (both in the cavity and outside, getting some under the skin) and refrigerate in a bowl for at least an hour. (You can do it overnight if you like.)
When ready to cook, remove the chicken from the refrigerator and allow to get to room temperature. Chop your chicken in half down the spine, getting rid of the backbone. Place the chicken halves flat on a steaming dish and then place in steamer. Cook for about 15-20 minutes until clear liquid drips from thigh bone when pierced.
In a large skillet, warm sesame oil over medium heat, then add ginger and green onion and cook for maybe 30 seconds. Then pour the warm oil and ginger-onion mixture over your chicken.
Makes one to two servings. Serve warm with steamed rice and Chinese vegetables and oyster sauce.
Pair with a glass of Chardonnay.
TIP: Sichuan peppercorns have a distinct Asian flavor, maybe because it’s one of the main ingredients in Chinese five-spice powder. It’s best to use freshly ground peppercorns. If you want an even stronger fragrance, heat them briefly in a non-stick pan before grounding.
STEAM THIS: If you don’t have a steamer, you can create one by simply getting a large pot or wok with some water, place a rack stand or hollowed out can in the center and place a heat-resistent plate on top. Cover and steam away.
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Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Dish To Go: Gregoire
Bringing restaurant entrees to your dinner table
4001 B Piedmont Ave., Oakland
Piedmont Avenue neighborhood
(original location at 2109 Cedar St. in Berkeley)
Open daily, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., lunch menu until 4:30 p.m.
PH: 510.547.3444
www.gregoirerestaurant.com
Gregoire Restaurant in Berkeley celebrated its 5th anniversary on Tuesday. Since I wasn’t on the invitation list (apparently the entire Berkeley neighborhood was invited to a block party), I ended up picking up some takeout from its Oakland counter, which remained open while their Berkeley counterpart celebrated.
The location at Piedmont Avenue is less than a year old, and just like the original Berkeley location, quite small for those wanting to eat in. Which is why I’ve always been confused about why it insists on calling itself “Gregoire Restaurant.” I mean, it’s even in the name of its Web site’s URL.
But after trying Gregoire a couple of times, I’ve come to realize that the word restaurant isn’t necessarily a description of location but the quality of food sold. They don’t want you to think they’re selling just your average takeout food. It’s restaurant dishes for your home. (BTW, it’s also restaurant prices. You just save on not having to tip anyone, unless you have to tip your partner who went to pick up the food.)
Gregoire’s Oakland location reminds me of a bustling deli. During busy times, there could be a line to the door as people order and wait for their food. The menu is French-Californian and changes every month. If you do decide to eat in, there are about 10 stools surrounding the stove top, so you get a front row seat of the chef preparing your dishes.
Since I was coming in for takeout, I scanned Gregoire’s dinner menu on its Web site and called in my order by phone. It takes me about 15 minutes to walk to Gregoire from my apartment, just about enough time for them to prepare their Sauteed Rosemary and Garlic Chicken Breast with Fresh Morel Cream Sauce ($15). Gregoire’s menu changes every month and is posted on its Web site for you to study and dream about.
The staff is friendly and sweet. Both times I went were early in the evening (around 6 p.m.) so it wasn’t extremely hectic. They provide your meals in this cute, very original, round cardboard containers that come with very classy biodegradable eating utensils.
When I got home with my order last night, I uncovered my chicken and I have to say I was completely disappointed. When I think of rosemary chicken and morel cream sauce, I imagine half a chicken lathered with a light brown cream sauce. Instead, I saw a dry-looking chicken breast and this liquidly brown sauce in a container.
At first I thought maybe they gave me the fried chicken special instead because the chicken skin looked so brown and fried. But I realized that it was the correct order when I noticed a few chopped bits of morel mushrooms at the bottom of the dark brown sauce (it was more of a reduction than a cream sauce).
A couple of rosemary twigs and a bit of grain (polenta maybe?) were stuffed into the chicken breast, giving it a strong fragrance. Along with the one piece of chicken breast, there were two pieces of sautéed zucchini. I was really disappointed that that was all I got for $15. The morel sauce was on the savory side.
I also ordered from its dessert menu the “apricot fold,” which was really a very long turnover. Because the chef is French, it’s not surprising to hear the puff pastry was very light and fluffy. However, it had an odd oil scent to it. It didn’t make it very appetizing. The filling was a thin layer of tart apricot jam. That was all I got for $4.
This recent take out experience was a surprising contrast to my first adventure to Gregoire back in May. Back then, I ordered the Dijon Mustard and Sauteed Mushroom Pork Stew over gemelli pasta. It was a huge plate of pasta when I opened it back home. The pork was slow-cooked to the right tenderness with a smokey flavor and it was dressed in a delicious cream sauce that contrasted nicely with the sugar snap peas added in for color and, I guess, snap. Gregoire charged only $14.75 for that. (Sorry I didn’t blog about it earlier because you can’t order it now, and there’s no real pasta dish in its June menu.)
Gregoire is a nice addition to the neighborhood and a fancy option when I’m tired of going to KFC. (Hey, I spend less than $5.50 for its two-piece chicken with two sides. BTW, I know I say I don’t eat fried food, but I remove the skin when I order occasionally from KFC.) But because of Gregoire’s high prices and inconsistent menu, I would only go back maybe once a month just to see if there’s something innovative that I don’t feel like cooking myself that night.
Single Guy rating: 3 stars (high-quality food if you make the right choices)
Explanation of the Single Guy Chef’s takeout rating system:
1 star = Might as well cook yourself
2 stars = Nice to know it’s an option
3 stars = Definitely will return again
4 stars = I have its number on speed-dial
5 stars = Can I live here?
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Labels: Review
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
What I Would Have Done: The Comfort Food Challenge
In this past week's The Next Food Network Star, the contestants made comfort food dishes for a group of Marines. My favorite comfort food is meatloaf, I think because I love mushing it against the mashed potatoes that are often served with it. Below is my recipe for meatloaf. It's actually an adaptation of a turkey meatloaf recipe by Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa. But of course, her recipe makes a lot of servings and uses a lot of ingredients. I pared down the serving size since I'm the Single Guy Chef, and added a few twists to it with chicken sausages I had in the refrigerator and sweet potatoes because they're good for you. (Sweet potatoes supposedly can help you prevent skin cancer.) I also think comfort food is eating what you like, and I like salsa so I use salsa to top my meatloaf instead of regular tomato paste or ketchup. This is a pretty healthy dish because of the lean turkey used and it's flavorful because of the added sausages (also lean). I served it with roasted garlic mashed potatoes with chives and sauteed broccotini. Enjoy!
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Comfort-Style Meatloaf
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
1.25 lb. ground turkey, lean
1 chicken sausage (3 oz.), finely chopped
1 sweet onion, diced
1 sweet potato or yam, shredded
1 t thyme, dried
2 T Worcestershire sauce
1 large egg
1 6-oz. can tomato paste
¼ cup chicken broth
¾ cup dry bread crumbs
2 T extra virgin olive oil
1 t salt
½ t pepper
1 jar of your favorite salsa
Preheat oven to 350 degrees
In a medium skillet, warm olive oil over medium high heat and then add onions and saute until translucent (about 1 to 2 minutes). Add sausage pieces to brown for about a minute and then add chicken broth, Worcestershire sauce, a tablespoon of tomato paste and thyme. Blend well, then set aside to cool to room temperature.
In a large bowl, combine ground turkey, bread crumbs, egg, sweet potato, onion-sausage mixture, salt and pepper. (Works best when using hands, be sure to wash hands first.) Pour mixture into a 9X13 baking dish and shape into a loaf so it’ll evenly cook. Blend the remaining tomato paste with a cup of salsa and then add the mixture on top of your meatloaf, creating a smooth thin layer.
Place meatloaf into oven and bake until internal temperature is at 160 degrees (about 1 hour).
Remove from oven and let cool for a while before slicing. Serve warm with garlic mashed potatoes and greens.
Makes 3 to 4 servings.
Pair with a glass of Zinfandel.
TIPS: To check the internal temperature to make sure you’re at 160 degrees, you’ll need a cooking thermometer. If you don’t have one, then slice the center of the meatloaf to see if it’s cooked to your preference.
PREVENTING CRACKS: I don't know if this really works, but a common tip to avoid cracks on the top of your meatloaf, especially if you create a layer of ketchup (or salsa as I've done) is to place a tray of water under the rack where you have your meatloaf. This supposedly will prevent major cracking because of the moisture from the steaming water below.
SHRED IT: I added sweet potato because it’s healthy for you but I found that it blends in nicely when you shred them before hand. I tried dicing them and mixing it in, but that made my meatloaf break apart easily. So shredding the sweet potato in a food processor will help it blend with the other ingredients while still giving you those sweet bits.
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Monday, June 25, 2007
The Next Food Network Star: Episode 4
Previously on TNFNS: The contestants cook at a New Jersey Nets game and we learn that Michael Salmon is over the top, Paul spins out of control, and Colombe is not a food expert, which means she’s not the next Food Network star, so she’s out. Also, Tommy’s head isn’t in the game, but that doesn’t matter since he’s out too during this double-elimination episode. And tonight, southern mom Paula Deen is helping the contestants make home-cooked meals for a bunch of Marines, and bust out the tissue because this elimination round looks like a real tear-jerker!
Oooh, up tempo music plays as we get a quick time-lapsed scene of the New York sunrise. Maybe the editors realized tonight’s episode is airing on Pride Day and they wanted to pump in some club music. And they also give us lots of shirtless men in the first few frames as we see Paul, Adrien, and Michael (eek) waking up at 5 a.m. There are only six of them left. They drag themselves out to the dining room and of course JAG, the former Marine, reads the note that sounds like it was written by a drill sergeant, telling them to prepare to meet at “0:700 hours.”
They all head out in the van, still half asleep, and eventually arrive at Fort Dix, New Jersey. That’s right, another episode in the city across the Hudson after last week’s episode at Nets Stadium.
Of course, everyone thinks JAG has an advantage having been in the military. We’ll see. They walk into a hanger and there standing with two military personnel is Giada DeLaurentiis, which is weird because she was a guest judge two episodes ago. (Is the Food Network running low on stars to pimp with Tyler Florence cooking at Applebee's and Rachel Ray gabbing all day?) I’m not the only one that thinks it’s odd seeing Giada II. Amy comments that she’s surprised to see Giada, and in some weird editing, follows that with “I just know this is going to be an extremely bizarre challenge” like Giada is the bearer of bizarre challenges.
JAG is already getting flashbacks of his military tour of duty. He talks about being around all the gear and how that’s making him feel uncomfortable. OK, if he starts to get all “Deer Hunter” on us, this is going to be a good show.
Giada tells them today’s challenge is all about creativity. They have to reinvent a MRE, which is the “meal ready to eat” or what looks like astronaut food. Sigh, I feel so bad that this is what we feed our military for all the sacrifices they make for us. Anywho, the contestants have 20 minutes to create a dish using the MRE ingredients and then do a presentation. Rory says this challenge is important because being a Food Network star means having to adapt to any situation. Yeah, let me see Paula Deen cooking with MREs.
JAG says he’s making a stew, which just looks like trail mix with water. Rory thinks her ingredients look like really bad TV frozen dinner, so not surprisingly, she’s freaked out. Paul is trying not to freak out like the last two episodes and is again talking himself into a chill.
Time is up and the judges visit the various station. Up first is Amy, who made chicken breast with mac and cheese, with two pieces of shrimp toasts on the side. The military guy says the shrimp toast tasted “shrimpy.” Isn’t that a good thing? That’s better than if it tasted “porky”? Hoo-RAH.
Adrien is up next and he took the pork rib dinner and sauteed it with pineapple and he took the clam chowder and added some roasted red bellpepper to make his “soup.” For dessert, he opened the pre-made packet of chocolate chip cookie and didn’t mess with it because it’s fine as is, in his humble opinion. The judges tasted everything and catty Giada is back because she says the cookie was the best thing.
The other contestants follow with JAG’s very spicy beef stew, Paul’s chicken and Dijon-cherry glaze that was very yummy, Rory’s cooked stew and sloppy-looking peach cobbler, and Michael Salmon’s mac and cheese with crumbled pretzel bits in it. Mike’s highlight of his taped segment describing how he did in this challenge: he’s worried because he said “MRI” instead of “MRE” during his presentation. Shocking!
In the on-the-spot evaluation, Adrien had the least flavorful dish (again with the bland food) and JAG failed with the presentation. (They are really following the Top Chef quick-fire challenges, even to the point of disclosing the least favorite and most favorite.) The winner is Paul, for both flavor and presentation.
Commercials. It’s the Hilton commercial again where they draw a dragon between points A and B. I. LOVE. This. Song. I had to do some research and was able to find out that the singer is Michael Tolcher, who’s featured doing full and acoustic versions of the song (called “Voila”) on the Hilton site. Unfortunately, it doesn’t look like Tolcher has released “Voila” on any CD. I would so buy that song if it were on iTunes.
They move to the next challenge and Paula Deen arrives, and of course, everybody loves her. (Except me. I have to admit I can’t watch her show. She cooks with too much butter and fat. But she does seem nice though.) Paula gets right down to the challenge and tells them they’re going to be split into teams of two and each team has to make a home-cooked dish the soldiers listed as their favorites: lasagna, meat loaf, and chicken pot pie. (Mmm, I agree on all counts. I’d also add roasted chicken and chicken soup.) They have to cook the dishes for 75 soldiers and also do a three-minute presentation.
Since Paul won the earlier challenge, he gets to pick a partner and what dish to cook. And I don’t know why, but the editing made it sound like Paul said “Jag-JAG” when choosing his partner. But basically he just got one JAG, who is the perfect sous chef. He then has to create the remaining teams, and Paul does the typical girls and boys team, so that means Rory and Amy and Adrien and Michael. Paul has too much power it seems because he’s also given the responsibility of assigning what the remaining teams will make. Since he and JAG chose meatloaf, he gives lasagna to the girls and pot pie to the boys, thinking lasagna is easy and pot pie will screw one of the guys because he wants more bed space in the dorm and his strategy is to get one of the guys eliminated. Now that’s now playing nice, Paulie.
They start cooking and Michael is bossing Adrien around. Meanwhile, JAG and Paul are moving like fire with their meatloaf dish. Wow, Rory just described her partner Amy as “a little organized, a little snooty.” Then she calls herself a “party girl.” Yes, we all remember the low-cut sweater in last week’s stadium challenge. Anywho, Amy says that when you combine both of their personalities, you get a normal person. Amy goes looking for sugar, but turns out she wants brown sugar instead of “regular” white sugar. I think Amy may be a wee tad OCD (obsessive compulsive disorder). Paula comes in and Amy’s still bummed about the brown sugar. Oh. My. Gawd. These mini-crisis among these contestants are soooo boring. What? No brown sugar? Come on, give me some real tension!
Why is comfort food always so unhealthy? I just saw Rory pouring oil over her sliced garlic bread.
Paul and JAG are really working well together. You can tell by the way they’re singing together over the pot. Rory calls them the odd couple.
Another boring mini-crisis: Rory can’t get the pasta out of her industrial-sized boiling pot, and she needs to get the pasta out before it overcooks. She and Amy use scoopers to get out the pasta and run it under cold water to keep it from cooking further. Whew, another boring mini-crisis averted.
Now for some real drama: JAG is putting his and Paul’s meatloaf into the oven, but Michael Salmon and Adrien have already claimed the top convention oven for their pot pie, leaving only the bottom old oven for Paul and JAG. “You guys are closer to the ground anyway,” remarks Michael Salmon. Now that’s snarky. JAG is worried because the lower oven doesn’t seem hot enough, and he starts flipping out at the unfair situation he finds himself in. (You know, you’d think they could have complained to a Food Network producer who could have found them another working stove to even the playing field. But hey, that’s just what I would do in my whole philosophy of “speaking up instead of just taking it.” Life deals you lemon; I am so tired of lemonade.)
Commercials. Ugh, there are so few new commercials on this network, I just can’t comment on them anymore. Just go listen to Michael Tolcher’s beautiful, spirited “Voila” tune from Hilton.com.
JAG is still stressing about the oven, so he panics and pulls out still raw meatloaf. Paul is now beginning to see the picture and he makes this funny line of how they can’t serve raw meat because “it’s not the Paul tartar show.” This is even more funny because of last week’s incident when Paul had undercooked hamburgers in the stadium challenge. So what happens? JAG says he has to deep-fry the meatloaf. As Scooby Doo would say, whOOOH? In goes the meatloaf into the deep fryer. Bacon strips that was laid on top are floating off and up, everywhere.
Adrien is making his dessert, but all his frozen fruits are still in ice stage. He tries to run them under water, but Michael Salmon bosses him not to do that because it’ll dilute the flavor. So he says just leave them on the pan and hopefully it’ll be thawed by dinner time.
Time’s up. The finalists now have to make their presentations to the Marines. First up are Rory and Amy and they do some loud Military-shouting routine. They both work the girl element with the soldiers like some USO performance. Amy voices over that it helps that Rory is stacked. See, even other women notices Rory's breasts.
Then it’s Michael Salmon and Adrien. By the way, poor decision by Adrien in wearing a neck-high zipper sweater in a hot kitchen. Even I felt hot watching him (or maybe it’s the 60 degree evenings here in the Bay Area). Adrien does the nice gesture of thanking the soldiers first, and then talks about their chicken pot pie with deep-fried potatoes for a crust on top. After talking about their dishes, Michael talks about growing up during the Vietnam era. It was an uncomfortable effort that didn’t really go well with the crowd. Stop with the politics, Michael.
Commercials. Yay, they’re playing the Hilton Michael Tolcher commercial again. Have I told you guys to listen to this song yet? I’m going to make this guy a star if it’s the last thing I do.
Out comes Paul and JAG and Paul comes out and does some push-ups that gets the soldiers going. Hoo-RAH. They go over their dishes and throws in a whole bunch of hoo-rahs and huuUUH. (I don’t get that second grunt sound. Is that really a Marine thing?)
The soldiers chow down. The finalists interview their thoughts: Amy feels she’s getting closer to the end and she can just taste the prize; JAG is still upset about the oven (let it go, JAG); Michael Salmon thinks he’s swept all the challenges thus far and is in good shape of winning, which is really odd considering that he’s never won a challenge; and Adrien doesn’t feel good about his frozen fruit or this challenge.
The judges are eating together in a booth in the mess hall. Bob Tuschman loves the crispy crust on the meatloaf and so does Susie Folgelson and Giada. But not Paul Deen, who says the meatloaf is her least favorite. (She didn’t like the herbs inside.) But she did like the sweet potato mash Paul and JAG made for the meatloaf. Bob thought the pot pie was gloppy. And everyone realizes the frozen fruit is still frozen. And of course, Miss Everyday Italian doesn’t like the lasagna, which she says is average and doesn’t go “pow” in her mouth. Oooh, wait till Rory finds out. Then something will go pow in someone’s mouth, I bet.
They interview some Marines, and just like the Stadium challenge last week, the editors mix in comments that are positive and negative for everyone. Useless. Rory says in her taped interview that she’s worried that JAG is self-destructing with his constant venting about the unusable oven. “We feel that the whole Jekyll-and-Hyde thing that the committee has warned him about is happening right now.” Dun-Dun-DUH.
And now, prepare for the most shocking, sappy, tear-jerking rose ceremony ever! Oh, I mean elimination round.
All six finalists go down to meet the judges. Michael Salmon is feeling strong. (Foreshadow, guys.) Amy doesn’t like critiques where people are talking bad about her. (I agree. I like only good news.)
Giada asks Paul and JAG about the oven. JAG explains that they deep-fried the meatloaf, and the judges realized that’s why they liked it. (Who doesn’t like deep-fried food? Oh, me. That’s right. Forgot.) Giada says the Marines all loved Paul and JAG’s presentation. Giada says she wants to see happy JAG, and Bob Tuschman gives the harshest comment ever when he tells JAG that when he’s not smiling “you’re really unpleasant to be around.” Giada tells JAG not to lose his cool. JAG gets emotional talking about how it was difficult going back to the military after going through a lot when enlisted. And he almost breaks down. Giada gets sensitive and she apologizes to him that the challenge made him feel uncomfortable and then she gives him some really positive, supportive advice about dealing with situations and challenging his demons. Wow, gone is catty Giada. I give this critique an A+. Sensitive tone. Supportive suggestions. Upbeat conclusion.
Bob critiques Paul, and says he went from Jack Russell Terrier last week to “Best in Show.” OK, I hope this is the last of the dog analogies. Anywho, Paul gets compliments on both his presentation and food tastes.
For Michael and Adrien, the peaches were frozen (we know already) but the judges loved the crusty pot pie cover. But the presentation was awkward and Susie says the Vietnam reference was disingenuous. (She means he’s insincere, like a used car salesman.) Bob asks Michael for his culinary point of view, and Michael gives this weird answer about how his culinary point of view has always been a bit elusive. Leading Susie to say: “you mean you don’t know.” Michael has to back pedal and explains that his culinary point of view is to let the food talk and he’d just give a few behind-the-scenes cooking tips here and there. Oh, great. Let’s just have a show with talking vegetables and forget about this Salmon guy.
Adrien says he thinks he’s still around because he’s comfortable in front of the camera but doesn’t want to be out there like a “jackass.” (I think he was referring to Mike Salmon.) But Susie says she wants to see more of a jackass, which probably explains some of the really loud personalities on the Food Network (who will remain nameless).
Then the girls. Bob calls Amy rigid and predictable because of her organizational skills. Rory is nervous and gets teary eyed about being so close to being a star. Susie says she’s bubbly but superficial. Giada says they need to see the contestants undergo a soul-searching moment, which gets the waterworks going. Amy is crying and she says she’s found it really hard to understand the crossover between what’s private and public (reality show vs. her kitchen), and that it’s a lot to process. She concludes there isn’t a distinction between a public and private life, and that’s where all this becomes really. She breaks down, and then Michael Salmon cries (ugh, how disingenuous), and tries to get into the crying game and says he recognizes what they all need to do and that this is the most challenging of all the challenges.
The elimination. It’s obvious that Paul and JAG did really well, and the soldiers voted their meatloaf the most popular comfort food, so they are both safe and will continue on. Amy and Rory’s dish wasn’t popular but they gave a strong presentation, so they’re both saved. The four gets dismissed, leaving only Michael Salmon and Adrien.
Susie says they’re both extremely brave for coming out and putting things out for us, whatever that means. And she says that Adrien will stay, so Michael goes home. But of course, she messes the ending and says “you can both go” but says it in a way like, “I am so tired of both of you and I wish I could eliminate both of you. Just go already.” That’s not what she said, but that’s how it came off.
Next on TNFNS: Alton Brown guest stars and the contestants cook with their least favorite ingredients. Amy has a bleeding finger (or is that ketchup?) and they all do a demo by themselves and all I can say is Paul is flaming (and I don’t mean his cooking).
Tomorrow: See which comfort food dish I make for the men and women of our armed forces.
Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.
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Sunday, June 24, 2007
Business Lunch: Crispy Chow Mein
Whenever I get the chance to shop at the Asian grocery stores and am heading straight home afterwards, I always like to buy the fresh chow mein or frying noodles. There are tons of noodles, from Shanghai thickness to thin Hong Kong style. I love the thin Hong Kong-style noodles to make won ton soup noodles or this crispy chow mein dish. The noodles are called crispy because you pan-fry it in a wok and get it slightly burnt. It's made into a cake that you pour your favorite ingredients on top as a sauce. In this case, I make a black bean chicken stir fry which has a deep flavor that's yummy with the noodles. (The noodles above, BTW, is called "steamed chow mein" and is made by a company from Elmonte, Calif.)
If you find yourself going for Chinese take out often for your lunch because it's cheap, well, try this next time and you don't have to worry about the extra oil or MSG often found at the cheap Chinese places. Enjoy!
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Black Bean Chicken Chow Mein
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
1 lb. chicken breast, cubed
1 green bellpepper
1/2 sweet onion
14 oz. package of chow mein (fresh frying noodles)
1 t white pepper
1 T sesame oil
1 T soy sauce
1 T black bean sauce
1 T oyster sauce
1 T Xiao Shing wine (rice cooking wine)
1 garlic clove, minced
1 T cornstarch
2 T canola oil
1/2 cup watersalt
In a small bowl, marinate the chicken pieces with white pepper, sesame oil, Xiao Shing wine (or cooking Sherry) and soy sauce. Set aside for about 10 minutes.
Rinse your noodles with hot water (or you can dip it briefly in a pot of boiling water) and then drain in a colander. Set aside to let dry.
In a large wok or skillet, warm oil over high heat and then add noodles. (You may need to separate your bunch of noodles into two bunches.) Sprinkle a pinch of salt over your noodles and pan fry into almost like a cake. Flip to crisp the other side. (About 2 minutes each side.) Place your noodles onto a serving plate.
Heat some more oil in the wok, then add the chicken and brown all the sides for about 2 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside.
Heat more oil again in the wok (for the last time) and then add the garlic and onion over medium high heat and saute until translucent, about 2 minutes. Then add the bellpepper and mix in the black bean sauce. Add chicken and blend all the ingredients together.
In a small bowl, mix the cornstarch with the water to create a slurry. Slowly add this mixture to your wok to create a sauce. Make sure your wok is on high heat. If your sauce gets to thick, just add more water or broth. Finish off your stir fry mixture with the oyster sauce and then pour everything over your plate of noodles.
Makes 4 to 5 servings.
Pair with a glass of Riesling.
TIP: If you buy fresh chow mein noodles, you don't have to worry about pre-cooking it in boiling water. The only reason I suggest that is to get rid of the flour-taste that's on the fresh noodles. I personally like the "steamed chow mein" I find at Asian stores from Elmonte, Calif. If you can't find chow mein, you can substitute with thin angel hair pasta or vermicelli.
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Saturday, June 23, 2007
In the Kitchen: What Smells? Prepping Your Aromatics
It's back to basics today with this demo on knife techniques when prepping your aromatics to infuse your cooking. In this demo I show you how to prep garlic, ginger and onions for your dishes. This is a really basic demo for the beginner cooks out there, so you expert can skip this unless you just want to see how silly I sound on video. ;-)
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Thursday, June 21, 2007
Sweet, sweet corn
Summertime brings a lot of fresh corn on the cobb, and I recently made this sweet creamy corn soup using fresh sweet white corn. I love the flavor of sweet corn, so this soup is so easy to make because of the natural sweetness of the corn. It's important, though, to put the soup puree through a chinois because of the pulp of the corn kernels, which is hard to avoid. So for a creamy soup, you have to do this extra step. But overall, the ingredients are simple and you're rewarded with a sweet summertime soup. Enjoy!
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Simple Creamy Corn Soup
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
4 ears of sweet white or yellow corn
1/2 cup of heavy cream
2 cups of chicken broth
1/2 sween onion, diced
2 T extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper for taste
Roast or grill corn in oven or open grill to char it a bit. If roasting in oven, just drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and place in 375 degree oven for about 15 to 20 minutes.
Remove corn kernels from the cobb. Set aside (leaving a few kernels for garnish). In a saucepan, warm olive oil and saute onion until translucent, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add chicken broth and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and add corn kernels, simmering for about 10 minutes and then pulse with a hand blender. Get a chinois or other screen and run soup through screen to remove any corn pulp. In the corn soup, add heavy cream. Season with salt and pepper to taste and then serve with tortilla garnish and some corn kernels.
Makes 2 to 3 servings.
Pair with a glass of cold beer.
TIP: The chinois is a screen in a cone shape. This is used a lot of times for soups or purees to get a smooth texture by removing any pulp or bits. You can also use a tamis which is a flat screen in a circle shape that fits over a bowl.
ADD A TWIST: To create a different taste dimension to your creamy corn soup you can add a tablespoon of either fish sauce or lime juice. Just be sure to add it with the soup off the heat so the cream doesn't curdle from the tartness.
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Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Battle of the Pho (Oakland)
When I did a review of the new Vietnamese restaurant Kim Huong in Oakland’s Chinatown, I focused mostly on its Hue-style dishes, not the ubiquitous pho (pronounced "fuh") soup noodles. But I wanted to go back and taste Kim Huong’s pho to see how it compares to Pho Hoa Lao II, a popular and more established pho joint that’s right across the street. To me, it seemed like the perfect setting for a battle of the pho.
So for lunch today, I went to do a taste test. Because I couldn’t really do a side-by-side comparison, I basically ate two bowls of pho back to back during my break so that the tastes from each dish would be fresh in my mind.
First up was Kim Huong, the new kid on the block. I ordered a small bowl (I had to save room for a second bowl of pho) of the “Special Combination Beef Noodle Pho” for $5.50. Five minutes later, I got a steaming bowl of pho with the side plate of bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeno slices and lime wedges.
The noodles were stuck together in a block, but I easily wrestled them loose with my chopsticks. I threw in a few bean sprouts, jalapeno and basil and started enjoying the light noodles, sweet broth and meaty delights. The special combination came with meatballs, thinly sliced flank steak, tripe, tendon and brisket. Kim Huong does a nice touch of adding very thinly sliced onions on top of all its soup noodle bowls.
I enjoyed the soup and pho, but the meatballs were rubbery. Still, there was a lot of meat in my small bowl.
My score for Kim Huong: décor, 3; service, 3; pho, 3; for a total score of 9 out of a possible 15.
Side note: Kim Huong sells its Special Combination pho in a very large bowl for $6.75.
Then it was across the street to Pho Hoa Lao II. It was definitely busier at Hoa Lao, which has the more no-nonsense layout to the joint. I sat down and ordered a small bowl of its Special Combination Pho. (Coincidentally, the small order was also $5.50, just like Kim Huong's, but Hoa Lao also has a medium bowl for $6.45 and a large for $6.90, a bit more expensive than Kim Huong.)
It took a few minutes longer to get my bowl of pho, but when it came out, it was much more prettier than Kim Huong's. Despite being in a smaller bowl, the specialty meats were arranged nicely on top in their own sections so you knew what was in the special combination. There were thinly sliced rare steak, well done flank steak, brisket, tendon and tripe. The side plate of bean sprouts, basil, jalapeno slices and lime wedges were more roughly presented than Kim Huong.
The pho noodles were bunched up together just like Kim Huong’s (must be the mass production of pho) and the soup had a similar sweet taste to it like Kim Huong’s, although I felt Hoa Lao’s soup was just a tad watery. Where it really shined was in the thinly sliced rare meat, which I believe is a true sign of a good bowl of beef pho. The meat at Kim Huong were overcooked. The tripe in Hoa Lao’s pho were also delicately shredded, which made it easier to eat.
My score for Pho Hoa Lao II: décor, 2.5; service, 2.5; pho, 4.5; for a total of 9.5 out of 15.
So the winner of the Battle of the Pho on 10th Street in Oakland goes to Pho Hoa Lao II with just a slight edge of half a point. Really, the beef and accompanying parts were much better even though the noodles and soup were virtually identical at the two places.
While Pho Hoa Lao has the better-tasting pho, I have to say Kim Huong has the better value because its large orders are $6.25 compared to $6.90 at Hoa Lao. So for value, Kim Huong wins on that count. Basically, you can’t go wrong at either place. And both in just one little street in Oakland Chinatown.
P.S. I was so glad to have that 10 blocks to walk back to my office after lunch.
Kim Huong, 304 10th St. (at Harrison), Oakland. PH: 510.836.3139.
Pho Hoa Lao II, 333 10th St. (near Webster), Oakland. PH: 510.763.8296
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Tuesday, June 19, 2007
What I Would Have Done: The Stadium Challenge
This week on The Next Food Network Stars, the remaining contestants created stadium food and sold them at a New Jersey Nets game. Whenever I think of stadium food, garlic fries totally come to mind even though I don't buy them. I don't eat them because they're deep fried, but I'm always tempted by the smell. So for this challenge, I created my healthy version of garlic fries by roasting fingerling potatoes (which are already so snack size) and getting in the garlic with a garlic-chive aioli. I also use a spray to coat the potatoes instead of drenching in olive oil. The trick is to use a really hot oven to get the potatoes crisp but without burning them. It might not be very creative, but it's better than nacho and cheese from a jar! ;-)
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Roasted Fingerling Potatoes with Garlic Aioli
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
1 lb. fingerling potatoes, sliced into strips
1 T fresh chives, finely diced
1 whole garlic bulb
1 egg yolk
1 T Dijon mustard
1 T mayonnaise
1 t white vinegar or champagne vinegar
salt and pepper
1/4 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
Extra virgin olive oil spray
Preheat oven to 500 degrees
Slice your potatoes into strips or halves to make them easy to eat. Lay them on a lined or non-stick cookie sheet. Spray with extra virgin olive oil to coat the potatoes. Also on the tray, place the whole garlic bulb. (Cut the top off to expose the individual cloves; drizzle with olive oil and salt.) Place the tray with potatoes and garlic into the oven and bake for about 20 minutes until nicely browned. (You might want to flip the potatoes strips half way through to brown all sides.)
To make the aioli, get the roasted garlic from the oven when done. Squeeze out all the cloves and mash them with a wooden spoon against a bowl. Then whisk in the egg yolk with mustard, mayonnaise, vinegar and chives. Slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream to emulsify into a creamy dip. Add enough oil to make as creamy as you like. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
For the potatoes, season with sea salt once you bring them out of the oven and while still hot. Leave in paper-lined basket to remove any excess oil.
Makes 2 servings.
Pair with a cold beer, preferably a lager.
TIP: When using raw eggs, make sure they're organic or very fresh and avoid touching the egg yolk with the outer shell. If you're squeamish about using a raw egg, then adding the mayonnaise should be sufficient to create a cream base.
NOT FOR THE VAMPIRES: The roasted garlic in the aioli will give you a nice garlicky taste. But if you want to get the smell of garlic too, then finely mince about two cloves of fresh garlic and toss that on top of the hot potatoes the same time you season with the sea salt.
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Monday, June 18, 2007
The Next Food Network Star: Episode 3
Previously on TNFNS: The contestants compete for the cover of Bon Appétit’s July grilling cover. Colombe gets ditsy. Paul demonstrates deep breathing exercises. And Giada tells Adrien that his food isn’t very good. Ouch! Nikki is labeled a “phony” (by Bob Tuschman, not me) and sent packing. Tonight: Guy Fieri guest judges and he delivers the news that two will be going home. Tommy cries talking to someone on the phone and they’re cooking for fans at a New Jersey Nets game.
You know, for the intro they have all the Food Network stars asking “Who will be the Next Food Network Star?” and Rachel Ray is the last featured star. But is she even doing any shows for the Food Network now that she has her own syndicated talk show? Is she still cooking in 30 minutes? (BTW, anyone see her at the daytime Emmys with her low-cut dress? Talk about a potential wardrobe malfunction. Yikes, I just realized that I admitted to watching the daytime Emmys. I need a life.)
The editors skip the usual opening of New York City scenes and instead go straight to the carriage house where the camera shows a shirtless Adrien in bed talking about how he’s not sleeping well. Neither is big boy Tommy. Common denominator? They’re both dads and today’s Father’s Day and they’re away from their kids? OK, I know this was filmed earlier and they’re probably at home now watching the episode with their families, but I wanted to throw in the Father’s Day connection. Looks like Amy is missing her kids, too. How long have these people been together? It’s only the third episode.
Tommy is in the sleeping area talking with his wife on the phone and he’s crying. Sigh, the big lug. He says in his interview that he’s torn between being with his family and staying in the competition. What do you think he’s going to choose? You’ll find out at the end of this recap. Dun-dun-DUH.
Paul, the single one, tells everyone to snap out of it and to get into the van to go to the Food Network studios. That’s where they meet Guy Fieri, who was Season 2’s winner. (Guy’s actually doing better than the first season’s winners because I notice the Food Network gave him a second show called “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives.”) But Guy’s not alone. In comes NBA legend (according to Fieri and other basketball fanatics, I’m sure) Darryl Dawkins. OK, I watch baseball, love tennis matches, and I know the names of a few football players. But I have zero interest in basketball. Although I do know names like Magic Johnson, Michael Jordan, Shaq and Kobe Bryant. (And thanks to Dancing With The Stars, Clyde Drexler.) But Darryl Dawkins? Sorry, don’t know the guy. Fieri asks Dawkins what his nickname was, and he says “Chocolate Thunder.” (What was odd, and I really don’t mean to sound mean—or snarky—but it really did sound like he was talking with a mouth full of chocolate bars. This is when we needed those subtitles they do for Chef Morimoto on Iron Chef America.)
So that’s the first challenge: cooking with chocolate. The contestants have 45 minutes to prep and cook their chocolate creations. Guy also lets them in on the fact that two of them will be going home at the end of the week. (I guess Food Network really wants to get rid of the dead weight.)
In the kitchen, Rory is burning a kitchen towel and announces it like some kind of ceremony. This is how she’ll always start a challenge, with the traditional burning of the kitchen towel. Amy says whenever she gets chocolate, she’s going to go sweet. No crazy experimenting with savory dishes for her. (Darryl “Chocolate Thunder” Dawkins says “you go girl” off to the side. Was that really a reaction to Amy or just fancy editing? For all I know, he could have been saying “you go girl” to Rory’s kitchen towel burning ceremony.)
We cut to Colombe, who’s looking in the pantry for cinnamon. And while I know what she was trying to say, her quote just doesn’t make sense. Here it is: “Where might I find cinnamon? They’re all alphabetized.” Um, I guess you would find it after the basil but before the dill?
When time’s up, the finalists are told they have to do a 30-second presentation in front of the selection panel, and their presentations have to include some kind of chocolate tip. In comes Bob Tuschman and Susie Fogelson to join Guy and Darryl Dawkins. First up is Paul, who needs to redeem himself from the previous week’s disaster. He made what he calls a “Chocolate Thunder Pie” or what I call a “kiss up to the judge” pie. It’s molten chocolate in a phyllo cup with vanilla and honey. He goes over the 30 seconds by just a second but at least he didn’t waste his time just taking deep breaths. Much better than last week. And Susie is digging the molten chocolate.
Next is Tommy, who made a cocoa-encrusted pork tenderloin with butternut squash and banana ravioli. Wow, a whole lot of fruits and meats and savory and sweets mixing together on one plate. You’d think Tommy would have a lot to say. But he ended up short on his 30-second presentation as the judges sat for 5 seconds (five. really. long. seconds.) watching Tommy stand there in front of the camera not saying a word. It was like watching paint dry. And boring white paint to boot. Later, Bob Tuschman makes a weird face after biting into Tommy’s cocoa-encrusted pork.
The other contestants roll in. The highlights: JAG makes a chicken tempura on a skewer with chocolate mole. (He throws a two-hand kiss at the end to the camera. Really, I don’t need my Food Network stars throwing kisses at me.) Adrien makes chocolate barbeque pork and Susie says she doesn’t taste any chocolate in the sauce. Amy makes a French pastry, of course, but talks too much about her husband before getting to her chocolate tip. And Colombe gets excited about chocolate, but Darryl Dawkins doesn’t finish her chocolate brioche. Michael Salmon is too busy kissing up to Chocolate Thunder instead of talking to the camera.
Commercials. Mercury Mariner. Big. Mercury Mariner. Bad. It is not on my list.
Challenge No. 2 (we have to wait till the end to see who won the chocolate challenge). Guy tells the contestants they’re going to invent or put their own spin on traditional stadium food. And they’re going to serve their creations to New Jersey Nets fan. Everyone seems excited. Maybe they thought they’d actually get to watch a game.
They have $300 to spend and 45 minutes to shop. They all go to the Westside Market in Manhattan, which I never heard of but it looks like a small, small Whole Foods. Everyone’s running all around, dropping products every where. (I wonder if the Food Network has to pick up the bill for the spilled products.) As they’re at the checkout, Colombe notices a bag that’s not hers. The bagger woman says (and I know because it was subtitled, unlike when Darryl Dawkins spoke) “This is for the other muchacho.” Colombe gives the extra bag that’s not hers to someone at the store because apparently she doesn’t know who is “muchacho.”
When we’re back at Food Network kitchen, Paul is missing some of his ingredients. A whole bag of ingredients. Poor muchacho. When he’s looking for it, he says he hears Colombe talking about how she had seen an extra bag and left it at the store. Paul’s really pissed, and you can tell because he’s doing this really weird surfer girl imitation of Colombe.
Guy Fieri checks in with Colombe and finds out she’s adding a fresh touch to cheese nachos. Where’s the cheese? Fieri asks. She says it’s in a jar. She’s going to serve it with natural tortilla chips. Are you making your tortilla chips? Fieri wonders. No, it’s in a bag, Colombe says. She goes on to tell Fieri that she’s “cooking” the pico de gallo, which is like a pineapple salsa to go with the nacho and cheese.
Time’s up and they all pack up their things to head home before the cook off the next day at the Nets’ game. At the carriage house, Amy is getting into it with Colombe, saying how Amy would have picked up Paul’s bag for him when he left it behind at the store. I’m really surprised how everyone is so concerned about the “team” when this is an individual competition. If Paul can’t keep track of his shopping, then how is he going to be able to handle his own show? (I know, it’s a stretch, but really, maybe Paul needs to take another deep breath instead of running all over like the Tasmanian devil.)
Amy is really in “mom” mode telling Colombe how she should have handled the situation. Colombe calls Amy “little Miss Perfect.” And Amy gives her a timeout.
The next morning, they head over to the Nets stadium, which I’m assuming they had to cross the river to go to New Jersey. They have 45 minutes to prep their food cart stations before the fans arrive. I’m wondering what basketball game occurs at what looks like 10 a.m.?
It’s apparently the pick-on-Colombe episode because we see Rory getting on Colombe’s case for opening up a heating cart (called the “holding area”) that apparently all contestants are using. Colombe’s going to get something of hers, but Rory is using the “heater” to cook her food. In Colombe’s defense, that cart apparently is a shared utility among all the contestants, so no one contestant should be using it for his or her own cooking. So Rory shouldn’t get mad if another contestant needs to get something from a common area. This is how I see the debate playing out before Judge Judy when Rory sues Colombe for ruining her chances to be the next Food Network star.
There’s this funny scene where Paul has so much prep to do that he’s talking to himself running over his list of things to do, but Tommy is right next to him not saying anything at all. Colombe is pretty much done with popping open her jars of cheese and breaking open the bags of tortilla chips, so she goes and offers to be the sous chef for Paul, who’s now totally all fine with her after that generous gesture.
Time’s up. You know, the contestants do this weird thing where they put up their hands when time is called. Looks kind of weird, like they’re being held up at a bank. I bet you some of them still do it at home. (Picture Amy, cooking in her kitchen for her family. Her husband walks in. “Amy, when’s dinner? I’m hungry. Is it time yet?” Amy, “What? Time’s up?” Raises her hands over her head. ... It could happen.)
So the Nets fans arrive for “the game.” I really don’t think there was a game. I think they were just told there would be free food. Anywho, all the contestants are trying to get fans to taste their food. The fans vote for their favorites, so the contestants really need to pimp their food. Someone who’s really selling it is JAG, who totally looks like he could be selling peanuts at the ballpark. He just has that loud, shouting voice.
Paul is selling his burgers, and in comes Guy Fieri who’s like the health inspector with a thermometer ready to stick it — in the hamburger, not Paul. It’s like Guy’s giving an impromptu quiz to Paul asking him if he knew what temperature he should have the inside of the hamburger in order to serve. (Paul says 160 degrees. The correct answer is 165 degrees.) Guy says Paul’s hamburgers are at 110 degrees, so he has to pull them and get it hot or else he can’t serve them. (BTW, Paul looked like he gave out maybe five or 10 hamburgers by the time Guy did his health inspector impersonation. So not sure whatever happened to those poor guinea pigs.)
Commercials. Oh my. They’re already looking for contestants for next season’s The Next Food Network Star. I am not applying again, just in case you were wondering. I don’t deal well with rejection.
Back to the arena, Paul is busy frying up his hamburgers. This woman is mad that there’s no burgers and she’s at the burger cart. Paul says he feels like a short order cook.
Everyone’s busy selling their stuff. Then the judges come to check out the food court, and of course they go first to Paul, who’s busy cooking. He serves up his “Hawaiian burgers,” which looks like a burger with a grilled pineapple, some greens and finished off with some barbeque sauce. The judges ask what makes the burger Hawaiian, and Paul says the pineapple, and then he goes into this weird hula dance while singing, “Aloha Oe.” I’m surprised that he even knows the word to the song “Aloha Oe,” but I give him deductions for that odd hula swaying.
When they get to Colombe’s nacho and cheese, there’s a fan off to the side commenting, “oh, it’s just nacho and cheese.” I guess they expected some duck confit with it.
They get to Tommy, who is so out of the game already. He made a meatball sandwich, but when they show him serving the fans, he’s not talking to any of them. He’s just plating up his sandwiches and passing them out. Unlike Rory, who is wearing a low-cut sweater and is attracting all the male fans and then encouraging them to vote for her. (I’m not even going to go there.)
Adrien is passing out his mushrooms wrapped with bacon. Such a simple dish, but apparently everyone loves it because they can just pop it in their mouths. Adrien says it was such an incredible experience to serve food to fans at a stadium. Maybe he should just get a job as a concessionaire.
They interview fans and, of course, they edit it so that each one had a favorite and it seems like each contestant got a vote (except it looks like Adrien’s mushrooms are especially popular).
Commercials, before they go to the elimination round. When did M&M’s start wearing wigs? Creepy.
Back from commercials, Mike Salmon is interviewed saying how he can’t believe two people will be going home and how they’ve all become so close that it’ll be hard to see anyone leave. How long have these people been together? It’s like they just spent their senior year abroad together or something. (FYI, during the application process, I read that the filming would be over a period of six weeks. Sounds like they’re half-way through the filming already.)
The contestants all file into the elimination room. Susie is especially peppy this week. Maybe she read my comments about her being disengaged last week. (Yeah, right.) Guy announces that the winner of the chocolate challenge is JAG with his chicken tempura skewers. They liked the food but also liked his 30-second presentation (including the kiss throw at the end?).
Then Guy announces that the winner of the NBA challenge is Adrien and his bacon-wrapped mushrooms—a fan favorite and Bob Tuschman’s as well. Both guys are safe and are excused from the room.
Now they focus on the critique of the remaining contestants and it went something like this: Mike Salmon didn’t really work the camera and when he does work the crowd, he comes off like a used car salesman; Colombe thinks her food tastes good but Susie doesn’t, so she’s suspect about whether Colombe really knows what tastes good, plus she called Colombe loud; Amy should have sold her quesadilla in San Diego where she’s from and not New Jersey (again, very little critique this week for Amy); Rory is “approachable” with her kitchen klutz routine, but that can come off as not authoritative; Tommy is just not there (he says he never leaves his family, which is nice, but again, did he read the application form?), and Bob thinks Tommy came off angry on camera and he was disappointed that he didn’t get the Tommy he knows; and Paul’s dishes were tasty in both the chocolate and NBA challenge, but his personality is too frenetic. Susie says that’s not the kind of energy they need at the Food Network (although it would work for Iron Chef America, IMHO).
Commercials. Is anyone going to watch that movie with Catherine Zeta-Jones as a competitive executive chef? Doesn’t look too interesting.
So the judges tell which contestants are safe. Mike Salmon, Rory (who is again near tears) and Amy (who breathes the same sigh of relief as last week). Bob sends them away, leaving only Colombe, Tommy and Paul. Then Bob says Colombe will be going home. I kind of expected it even though I thought the show is a lot more fun with her on. Of course, Bob doesn’t really say much about why Colombe is leaving. She thanks them and when she gets upstairs, she tells everyone “bye,” and Amy asks, “So what did they say?” (wanting to know why the judges let her go) and Colombe replies simply, “They told me to leave.” You can’t fault Colombe for not following instructions.
That leaves Paul and Tommy and you know who’s leaving. Susie says Paul is staying and Tommy is going home, and he looks soooo happy for the first time in this hour. Tommy really was already home in his mind.
As Tommy heads upstairs, Paul is left with the judges and Guy gives him some advice, saying that Paul has charisma and personality but that he shouldn’t “spin it out” with his frenetic energy that he’s displayed so far. Of course, Paul’s mind is probably going at warped speed because he repeats the advice Guy just gave him, “OK, don’t spit it out.” No, Guy corrects him, “spin.” Sigh, Paul, Paul, Paul. Of course, then Paul spins around to leave the room in this mad dash that’s cute and funny all at the same time.
Everyone hugs Tommy bye, but Adrien is especially sad and they have a long man-crush hug. No one is hugging Colombe, and she’s talking about how one door closes and the other one opens. She questions whether she should be pursuing a food career, because that’s not really going to make her a star now. (Neither did Mighty Ducks, apparently.) Adrien says he feels extremely alone now that Tommy is gone, and he vows to win in Tommy’s memory. (Does this season seem more sappy than the last two seasons?)
Next on TNFNS: Looks like they’re cooking for some military personnel, and Paula Dean is coming in to talk about home cooking. Paul wants someone out of the house, and Miss Giada is back as a guest judge.
Tomorrow: See what I would have done in the stadium challenge.
Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.
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Sunday, June 17, 2007
Food Gallery
Occasionally I'm going to post a photo just for the heck of it. I love taking pictures and get inspired by the natural colors of fruits and vegetables. These rainier cherries I saw at the farmers' market were so pretty I had to photograph their blushing shades. Of course, you could dip them in chocolates like I did the other time and then you can eat your models. :) I call this photo, Rainier On My Mind.
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Saturday, June 16, 2007
Salsa Time!
Grilling is so great because it’s so simple. Basically just season your meat with salt, pepper and oil and you’re good to go. When it’s hot, it’s nice to have salmon steaks because they feel light and healthy. And salsa is a nice summertime condiment. Below is my simple directions (I can barely call it a recipe, it’s so simple) for mango salsa. Enjoy!
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Grilled Salmon with Mango Salsa
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
1 salmon steak (about 6 oz.)
1 ripen mango, diced into small chunks
half a red onion, finely diced
¼ cup fresh cilantro or Italian flat leaf parsley, roughly minced
juice from one lime
2 T extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
In a small bowl, blend mango cubes, red onion, cilantro and lime juice with a pinch of salt. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Season your salmon steak on both sides with salt and pepper. Drizzle with olive oil on both sides, and then place on a hot grill or grill pan. Cook until done (2-3 minutes each side).
Plate your salmon with your salsa. Makes one serving.
Pair with a glass of Chardonnay.
TIP: The onion has less punch when it sits in the juices of mango and lime for awhile. So you should refrigerate for at least half an hour. You can use your leftover mango salsa to go with tortilla chips or on top of toast like a crostini.
GRILLING SALMON: It’s tough grilling fish. That’s why it’s best not to touch the fish and to flip it only once. Use a metal spatula to flip your salmon steak, not tongs.
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Thursday, June 14, 2007
Dish on Dining: Two [[UPDATE: Closed]]
Double your pleasure at ex-Hawthorne Lane
[UPDATE 11/14/09: This restaurant is now closed.]]
22 Hawthorne St. at Howard, San Francisco
SOMA
PH: 415.777.9779
Open lunch: Mon.–Fri., 11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.; Dinner daily, 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m.; happy hour, Mon.–Fri., 4–6 p.m.
Reservations, credit cards accepted
http://www.two-sf.com/
Hawthorne Street always sounded like an inspiring place to stroll, like you’ll see all these literary types visiting quaint bookstores or tea shops. But in San Francisco it’s really just an alley, and for many years the primary destination for the restaurant Hawthorne Lane.
I never made it to the original Hawthorne Lane (just a stone’s throw from the W Hotel), but recently I visited its reinvented version known simply as Two.
Two (named in honor of the two chefs—David Gingrass and Bridget Batson) is a casual, eclectic place (it has deer antlers for a chandelier) that wants to be on the cutting edge of San Francisco cuisine. So what that means is there is a lot of experimenting on the menu, which can be delightful, surprising, and odd all at the same time.
I visited Two with my friends David and Ann after work one weeknight. I wanted to catch up on their trip to Italy. We made reservations to make sure we’d get a table, and I arrived to find David and Ann already enjoying themselves at the large bar in the center of the dining room. They gave rave reviews about the friendly bartender.
For dinner, we decided to order a few dishes to share. Two has an eclectic menu highlighting Californian seasonal ingredients, with a few small plates to encourage sharing. Because we each got to taste a little bit of everything, I’m doing my review in a different format this time. I’m going to do a critique of each plate as they arrived.
Chilled salmon salad and sweet pea puree on sourdough crostini ($8)—We started with this crostini to get the spring freshness of peas. David loved this more than I did. It was simply salmon flaked into a salad and placed on top of the crostini. While it was OK, I just kept thinking that I could have done this myself at home with some canned salmon and mayonnaise. It was a straightforward dish with very little other taste profiles to intrigue my taste buds.
Bread platter (complimentary)—I just have to give some space to the fantastic bread plate that came out looking like a shark. The biscuits were wonderful and the lavosh crackers were a nice contrast.
Bacon and egg raviolo, with spinach, sage brown butter ($10.50)—OK, you know how I have certain quirks about eating (like I’m against fried food and how I always order duck when it’s on a menu), well, one of my beef with Italian restaurants is how they get away serving typically three to four pieces of ravioli (Two calls theirs a “raviolo”) and call that an entrée. (Charging entrée prices, of course.) This was the whole speech I was giving to David and Ann when we were ordering. But boy, did my mind change when I took a bite of this delightful pasta filled with a raw egg that was cooked slightly inside the ravioli. The savory sage brown butter on top provided a nice crisp to the creamy egg that oozed out as you cut the raviolo with your fork. The bacon was lacking, though, but it probably could have gone without it. Despite this being a pleasant surprise, do you think it’s worth paying $10.50 for one ravioli (even if they call it a raviolo)? I’m still a bit torn about it because I would pay that much for this particular one. (Although I would be in heaven if it was more like $8—it’s the principle!)
Fava bean pizza with lemon ricotta and Parmesan ($13)—There were several pizzas on the menu, but we went for the seasonal fava bean (and I love lemon ricotta). This was disappointing. First, because the cornmeal-dusted crust was chewy. Second, because the fava bean flavors weren’t as bright. And thirdly, because they basically just dumped the two ingredients on top of the pizza and didn’t allow it to blend into one cohesive dish. My 5-year-old nephew could have created this. We didn’t bother finishing the whole pie.
Spaghettini, sea urchin, brown garlic, chili, parsley ($10/$18) with a side of stewed broccoli rabe ($5)—I saw this on the menu on Two’s Web site when I was studying up before our dinner and I knew right away that I needed to try this. It sounded so adventurous and unusual, and I consider this the signature dish for Two. It represents the kitchen’s Italian influences and Gingrass’ wish to be seen as an innovator. The sea urchin was cut into bits and deep fried (I know, but it was good) and tossed in perfectly cooked thin spaghetti. I judge really good pasta by how all the ingredients blend and stick together, both on the plate and in my stomach. This was a very satisfying dish that’s best eaten right away. The broccoli rabe, BTW, was nicely prepared and gave us a good shot of green leafy vegetables for our dinner.
Roasted half duck on the bone with apple rhubard chutney ($19)—You know what I say about duck on the menu, got to have it! This was a nicely cooked duck but it was underwhelming. I could have gotten something more tantalizing in taste from Chinatown just a few minutes north. The duck was simple and the chutney was tart like cranberry.
Two cupcakes (chocolate peanut butter and double chocolate mousse) ($7.50)—Just when I thought the sea urchin spaghettini should be Two’s signature dish, I changed my mind after a bite of each of the moist, rich and decadent dessert cupcakes. David, Ann and I were pretty full from grazing on the tasting selections we made, but we were impressed by the diversity of offerings on the dessert menu. We could only get ourselves up for the small cupcakes, thinking we would take a few bites and be done. But after taking one bite each, we all wanted more! They were definitely a wonderful ending to our dinner. (Although, David kept wanting a glass of milk.)
As you can see from our experience above, there are some real winners and real losers on Two’s menu. I explain the inconsistency of the dishes in my mind to the fact that the two chefs are really experimenting, so some dishes will be more successful than others. (Or it could be that since there are two chefs, maybe one chef is better than the other. Ooooh, wouldn’t it be interesting if they put the chef’s name next to the dish he/she is responsible for? We could keep score of who has more winning dishes! But this would probably be too much drama for this new partnership to endure.)
Side note: Service was excellent in all areas. They really make an effort to make you feel comfortable. Two is also one of the restaurants in town with the popular communal table (which happened to be taken up by a private party on the night we were there). Communal tables are great for solo diners or out-of-town diners who’d like to meet other foodies.
Two is an interesting food destination because it also offers cooking classes and kitchen tasting menus through a lottery on its Web site. (I added my name of course but I'm still waiting!) It also promotes an active take-out business (which is smart for the business people working in the area) and they said the cupcakes are available for order!
My conclusion about dinner (I’ll let David and Ann chime in with their comments in the comment section) is that Two is a fun place for drinks and some small dishes (especially the sea urchin spaghetti, with maybe a nice Chianti) or an after-dinner place for dessert (cupcakes for sure!). The pricing is reasonable so you don’t feel stressed about ordering many different dishes. Two isn’t really a place for a more traditional dinner experience, and maybe that’s what the owner wanted. When redefining Hawthorne Lane, maybe he wanted to redefine San Francisco’s eating experience? As long as he offers a few strong dishes, I’ll still be a willing guinea pig.
Single guy rating: 2.75 stars (perfect for new diners looking for a twist)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner![]()
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Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Scoop on Dining: In Line at Ici
We’re getting an early preview of summer in the Bay Area right now with the heat, so you know everyone’s thinking about ice cream, sorbet, gelato and other ways to cool off. I rarely eat ice cream because I’m not big on sweets (or fat), but there’s always something nice about a smooth, hand-made ice cream or gelato as you’re walking around the neighborhood on a beautiful sunny day.
I recently went to get my haircut in the Elmwood neighborhood of Berkeley. And while there are a few restaurants in the area, I think one of main attractions these days is the 9-month-old Ici ice cream store. Ici, which means “here” in French, sells hand-made ice creams made with organic ingredients on the premises. (Thus the emphasis on “here.”) Co-owner Mary Canales (the former pastry chef at Chez Panisse) makes inspiring flavors that changes virtually day to day depending on what ingredients she gets her hands on.
During my first visit after my hair appointment, I strolled in and ordered two scoops of the burnt caramel and cardamom and orange peel (pictured right). I sat at the bench inside the quaint shop (designed by business partner Erik Anderson) and enjoyed the creamy texture of the ice cream. The burnt caramel had a subtle flavor and reminded me of espresso ice cream, while the cardamom was bright, fresh and delicious! I have a bias toward citrus flavors, but I think this flavor would brighten anyone’s day.
I returned to Ici last weekend (for more flavor testing, of course), and saw a crowd of people outside. This was a Sunday afternoon—prime time for ice cream consumption. It inspired me to do a photo essay similar to what I did waiting in line at Tartine Bakery. But in this case, I already knew it would be worth waiting in line for the ice cream since I had been there a week earlier. So here’s a tour of Ici for those of you who haven’t checked out this Berkeley gem yet:
3:45 p.m.—Here I am at the end of the line outside the Ici store. They have this nice bench outside for people to enjoy the ice cream (or wait for people in line).
3:55 p.m.—I reach the “open” sign. This is when I begin to study what flavors I’m going to go with today. Canales does about 10 flavors a day, all seasonal, and they can really change daily. Last time I was there they had strawberry-rhubard ice cream and apricot sorbet, but this time those items were off the menu. (Also gone was my favorite cardamom and orange peel.) The flavors are primarily ice cream with a couple of sorbets (like mango during this visit).
3:58 p.m.—I step inside the tiny store. From the entrance you can look straight down the hallway to the kitchen and see people making ice cream. They always look pretty stress. I can see why with the lines.
4:02 p.m.—As I inch closer to the counter, I can still see through the window that the line continued to grow after me.
Part of Ici’s appeal is its quaint décor, including these signs showing the available flavors. Along with ice cream, I noticed a sign for “affogatto,” which is the Italian ice cream dessert where they pour espresso over vanilla ice cream. I was sooo tempted to order this since I had my first affogatto at Foreign Cinema and loved the combination!
4:04 p.m.—I reach the counter where today they had three people serving. Last time there was only one person. So they do plan for the peak hours.
I order my typical two scoops, this time going with the new flavors “rose-pistachio” and “lemon-amareno cherry.” (I’d never heard of amareno but it’s apparently a sour cherry.) I typically order my ice cream in a cup because I don’t like to spill, but this time I wanted to try their cones, which cost an extra 50 cents.
4:06 p.m.—I stand in line to pay. I had to take this photo fast so I could start licking away at my ice cream. Mmmm, the rose-pistachio was sweet and nutty. I could really taste the fresh, crunchy pistachio. But the winner was the lemon-amareno cherry underneath. Just like the cardamom-orange, it was bright, fresh, tangy and uplifting. It almost made me feel like a kid again, so happy to be discovering new flavors. It was definitely lemony, and I love lemon flavors (so don’t get this if you’re a lemon-puss.) Total paid: $4.25 with cone. (BTW, the cone was light and flakey, but on this particular day the chocolate tip at the end made the cone a bit stale on the bottom.)
At the counter there were a whole bunch of other things to buy like cookies, cones and these orange peels. They’re all decorated in a very French flair.
I like how all their supplies are composted. Here you can dump your spoon and cups.
When I first walked into Ici last year soon after it first opened, I thought it was a bit pretentious. But now after having tried the flavors and quality, I feel lucky that I have access to such great ice cream on the East Bay. I won’t say it’s THE best ice cream around (I still prefer the texture of gelato), but I love the experimentation of flavors offered by Canales. Some are misses (I heard the Irish Stout flavor didn’t go off too well) but many of them are winners (I’m still dreaming of the lemon-amareno). Ici also sells bonbons and ice cream sandwiches that are pretty popular. I think next time I’m going back for the affogattto!
Ici, 2948 College Ave. (at Ashby), Berkeley. PH: 510.665.6054. Open daily from noon (except Monday when it opens later at 2 p.m.) until 9 p.m. (closing later at 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday).
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Tuesday, June 12, 2007
What I Would Have Done: The Bon Appétit Challenge
In the latest episode of “The Next Food Network Star,” the contestants competed for the chance to showcase their recipes on the July cover of Bon Appétit magazine. The theme was “a new way of grilling” and the winner was Rory and her baby back ribs. The editors of Bon Appétit says they’re always looking for recipes that are simple for the home cook, innovative and visually appetizing.
When I thought about what I would have done in the challenge (the contestants had 90 minutes to develop and cook their recipes), I thought about grilled salads because I think that’s a refreshing change from ribs (sorry Rory) and beef that’s typically slapped onto the summer grill. Grilled salads are also fast because it doesn’t take that long to cook. My favorite salad is the traditional Caesar salad, so that’s what I made for my make-believe presentation to the Bon Appétit editors. It’s simple and quick, and I added a twist with my anchovy-Parmesan crostinis instead of croutons. What do you think? Do you think it’s worthy of the July cover of Bon Appétit?
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Grilled Chicken Caesar Salad with Anchovy-Parmesan Crostini
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
2 thinly sliced chicken breasts (about 6 oz., 1/2-inch thick)
1 head of romaine lettuce
Slices of sourdough baguette
Parmesan cheese
1 anchovy fillet
2-3 T extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
Caesar dressing:
1 egg yolk
1 anchovy fillet
1 garlic clove, mashed and minced
1 T Dijon mustard
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 T champagne vinegar
2 t honey
lemon zest and juice from half a lemon
1 T grated Parmesan cheese
1 t Worcestershire sauce
pinch of salt and pepper
Heat an outdoor grill or, if cooking inside, a grill pan. Season chicken breasts (on both sides) with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Grill until cooked (about 2 minutes each side since they’re thinly sliced).
Cut your romaine lettuce in half lengthwise (making sure to keep the end stub intact to hold all the leaves together). Brush salad dressing on your lettuce and then place flat side down on the grill. Cook for about a minute. (If you’re cooking the chicken at the same time, be sure to keep some distance between the lettuce and raw chicken splatter.)
To make anchovy-Parmesan crostini, slice your baguette and then brush with either butter or olive oil. Then mince your anchovy and sprinkle the pieces over the bread. Add grated Parmesan cheese to cover the pieces and place under your oven’s broiler for about a minute.
To make the dressing, start by mashing the anchovy in the bottom of your bowl with a wooden spoon until minced or like a paste. Do the same with the garlic clove. Add egg yolk and whisk really well, adding vinegar, honey, lemon zest, lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce. Then slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream while you continue to whisk. Finish off with whisking in the Parmesan cheese and adding a pinch of salt and pepper. (You can also do all this in the blender.)
Plate your salad with the grilled lettuce and chicken and garnish with Parmesan cheese slices. Serve with your anchovy-Parmesan crostini.
Makes 1 to 2 servings. Pair with a glass of Chardonnay.
TIP: The raw egg is optional, but it adds a bit more creaminess to the dressing. When using raw egg, be careful not to let the egg yolk get in contact with the outside of the shell. Always use fresh eggs and keep your dressing refrigerated until ready to use.
NO SOGGY ROMAINE: When preparing your romaine lettuce, be sure to rinse it to remove any dirt. But before you grill your lettuce, pad with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. And don’t overdo the dressing because that’ll add to the sogginess. Serve extra dressing on the side instead.
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Monday, June 11, 2007
The Next Food Network Star: Episode 2
Previously on TNFNS: The contestants cater a wedding in six hours, Nikki thinks Bobby Flay’s Calvin Klein suit needs a bit of cobbler, and Rory is dubbed “calamity Jane.” But it’s former swimsuit model Vivien and bald Seattle guy Patrick who are the first two to be asked to leave the carriage house. And tonight, Giada DeLaurentiis shows the contestants how to work the camera (and you know she knows how) and everyone vies for the cover of Bon Appétit. (BTW, this is the first TV show I’ve seen that pretty much gives away the whole show in the first 30 seconds.)
Flying glass stars shatter and we cut to the quick scenes of morning in New York (skyline, Central Park joggers, Union Square farmers market, and the carriage house).
“Nothing like morning breath,” we hear Colombe say. Gawd. This is not a good sign of a stellar show ahead. Wake up, Food TV editors!
Contestants are still sleeping in their bunk beds. Apparently, Amy likes to talk in her sleep (and to her invisible kids) and Rory is already voicing over that she’s the underdog in this episode because of her skirting near elimination last week. They head over to Studio B (for Ben!) and in comes Giada.
JAG, who’s probably just as tall as Giada, says in his taped segment “Giada is very hodda.” Just a reminder, this is the guy who “JAGs-up” his food.
Giada tells them their challenge is to “bring food to life.” Yeah, I’d like to see them bring that side of beef back to life. Now that would be magic. She tells them they’ll be doing their first taped segment, which brings an “oh no” from Nikki, who’s a bit concerned. (Nikki, did you realize you’re competing to be in front of the camera every week for six weeks?)
So Giada has broken down one of her recipes from “Everyday Italian” into nine parts and each contestant will have one minute to do one part of the demo. Funny, whenever I watch “Everyday Italian” I never feel a recipe takes more than maybe four, five steps tops. So this must be A Very Special Episode of Everyday Italian.
Amy, who was the team leader for the wedding challenge, seems to be in control again as she sorts out the index cards with the various steps and divvies them out among the other contestants. (It must be the mom in her. BTW, doesn’t her voice remind you of a young Katherine Hepburn? I bet you she’s a bit Irish.)
Then comes the tag-team demo and all I can say is what a train wreck. It’s like someone’s flipping the channels but it’s always the same show but with a different host. First off is Rory, who’s actually very personable in front of the camera, but boy can she talk. Yada, yada, yada, and—ding—her minute is up and she barely finished dredging the chicken breasts. So in comes Mike Salmon who heats butter on a hot pan and creates a smoky kitchen. The smoke distracts him and he starts talking about cooking for your friends and family instead of focusing on the recipe. So far, no one is actually cooking.
So now the demonstration is really falling behind. In comes JAG, who should be competing, really, for “Top Chef.” He goes into sous chef mode and it’s like watching a line of a professional kitchen. He’s putting out fires. He’s cooking the chicken. He motor-chops the shallots. And he makes way for Colombe. Sigh, Colombe. She’s so sweet and innocent, it’s like watching your best friend cook for you on a Friday night. Rory says Colombe reminds her of Snow White, and that inspires the Food Network editors to play this sweet, cheerful music in the background. I really do expect to see an animated blue bird to come flying onto her shoulder. She’s doing really well talking, but like the others, she’s not moving the recipe along and that means the back up happens again. Will this chicken ever get cooked?
Paul comes in and puts out another fire. (I’m so surprised the smoke detector hasn’t gone off by now.) He starts talking about the spinach and then forgets what he was about to say about frozen vs. fresh. (I know how he feels. I’m always forgetting what I want to say when doing my “In The Kitchen” demos for this blog.) He’s thrown off and it’s pretty much downhill from there.
From one hottie to another, next comes Adrien who actually looks very confident in front of the camera. His experience with his local, public-access food show is really helping him now. But how big are his eyebrows? I just noticed that they completely circle his eyes. OK, not completely but pretty darn close.
Next is big boy Tommy. He does this amazing feat where he disappears. That’s right, he walks off to the side of the camera to do some chopping. And Tommy’s pretty big so it’s really noticeable when half of him is gone. He also doesn’t have much to say and actually spends a few seconds near the end just cooking without saying anything. Dead silence is always such a ratings booster.
Amy, the mom, comes in and she’s very personable and does her thing before her time runs out. I really don’t get much out of Amy in this episode. I think she’s smart but the editors are not showing much of her. If she was on American Idol, this is when she would be complaining about not being featured enough to get the votes. And Simon would call her demo “adequate” but with no “X-factor.”
Bringing up the end of this tag-team mess is Nikki. She. Talks. Soooo. SLOW. Did she take a few capsules of valium before she went on the air? You know how people talk really slow like they think you’re slow and won’t understand her? That’s what Nikki is doing here. Of course, she doesn’t finish plating the chicken before time runs out. (Yes, they actually made a chicken dish, with some creamy spinach.)
Giada tells them that they have to stay calm despite the frenzied pace of TV. She gives points to JAG for “taking one for the team.” Wait till she hears that he called her “hodda.”
Right before their next challenge, Amy says in her taped segment that every time she walks into the kitchen, she feels like she wants to puke. Did anyone read the application? This is a cooking show? You have to cook food people want to eat, not want to throw up. Even though we can’t taste the contestants’ food, I’m taking a leap of faith that Amy’s food probably doesn’t taste that great. I’m just saying.
Giada introduces the food editor of Bon Appétit magazine, who tells them they’re going to compete for the cover of the July issue. The name of the issue is “the new way of grilling” and they have 90 minutes to come up with a dish that would appeal to Bon Appétit readers.
As everyone’s scrambling for ingredients to create their grilled dish, Tommy walks over to the table and starts picking up Fred-Flintstone-size steaks. Big surprise. Colombe says she’s thinking of some kind of lettuce wrap with skirt steak. Paul is doing a Rain Man impression and is pretty much talking gibberish here as he tries to get a handle of his ingredients, especially after tanking the on-camera challenge. Poor Paul, he was my favorite to win but now he looks like he’s going to self-destruct. At least that makes for good TV.
Rory is making her famous ribs that she typically cooks for five hours. But she’s making it in 90 minutes. You know, really all she did was rub the ribs with some kind of dry rub and then placed them in the oven. I wonder what she did for the remaining 70 minutes?
OK, that Salmon guy is throwing herbs into the grill to create a smoke. He thinks he’s being originally, but really all he’s doing is providing kindling.
Giada asks Nikki how she can cook in heels. Nikki’s all like, “girl, I always cook in heels.” And Giada’s all finger-snapping back, “I believe in comfort and I’m wearing my flip-flops.” Nikki says she’s making jerk chicken with some crazy Jamaican accent. I think it’s a requirement that whenever you make jerk chicken you have to speak in a weird Ziggy Marley accent.
JAG is working on his dish and he suddenly goes into “Top Chef” mode and starts cooking a wild mushroom, Marsala, balsamic reduction glaze. He’s going to be sooo disappointed when Tom Colicchio fails to show up to judge his dish.
Time runs out and everyone packs up their food to go to the offices of Bon Appétit.
Commercials. How much do we love the Hilton Hotels travel commercials? I love the music with the guy singing. Who’s the singer? Anyone know? Hey, that’s a commercial for “Top Chef: Miami.” Geesh, Food Network will whore its ad space out to anyone, even a competitor.
Back from commercials, everyone arrives at Bon Appétit. They all wait in some boring room while each person goes before a panel one by one. They have 30 minutes to prep their food and then give a short presentation to the judges.
First up, Tommy and his Fred-Flintstone steaks. (I still get a kick at how my spell check recognizes Flintstone!) He walks in and everyone’s salivating over his meat. Those salivating include Mark Thomas, one of the magazine’s photographers (I want his job!); Kristine Kidd, the food editor; Barbara Fairchild, the editor in chief; and the rest of the Food Network judges: Giada, Bob Tuschman and Susie Fogelson. Tommy grilled a rib eye with brown sugar, which he says gives a sweet flavor. Brown sugar makes things sweet. Got it. I learn so much from these contestants.
After he leaves, the judges say his plate looked like a big brown nothing, and he’s trying too hard to show off his personality.
Second is Mike Salmon who is apparently the grill master. Must be all those years grilling for Macy’s demos because his chicken has the perfect diamond grill marks. He talks to the panel about his “herb-smoked infusion.” I am shocked at how these food editors are so impressed by burning herbs.
Amy brings in her chicken piard, which she explains are chicken breasts pounded flat. It’s a French technique, of course. But the judges can’t find the chicken because Amy buried it under a big fruit salad. The photographer said it looked like a farmer’s market exploded on her plate.
Adrien is stressing about his personality. So what do you do to demonstrate you’re personable? You use the phrase “what’s up?” Which is what Adrien does as he enters the room. He says he wanted to do a vegetarian dish because everyone always grills meat, so he made a stuffed bellpepper. It looks like it’s stuffed with a lot of grain because everything’s so brown, but he explains that it’s actually roasted corn and a whole lot of different hot peppers. This is his Motown Spicy Bellpepper. He’s confident enough to ask how it tastes, which was his first mistake. The judges all agree that it’s spicy. It’s not a good sign when all the judges say the same thing while writing on the piece of paper in front of you.
Colombe is feeling the pressure, especially since she doesn’t have any woodland creatures to help her. The hustling during the prep period has thrown her off, and she’s not quite prepared when she comes in because it takes her several tries just to introduce herself and her dish. Then she makes the mistake of calling her steak “flank steak” when it was “skirt steak.” Basically, she had problems with the English language. Giada is the first to point out that she misidentified the part of the cow. Colombe should have stuck with a vegetarian dish. (I have to say at this point that Giada is a bit catty. Sure, she’s all movie-star pretty in front of the camera, but she can change her demeanor with just a snap of the finger. And her criticism isn’t always buffered with positive feedback. I mean, later during the elimination round she tells Adrien that his bellpepper dish looked like someone ate it and then spit it out. OK, I have to admit I had the same thought, but I wouldn’t have put it in those words.)
Next up, JAG. He made a spicy grilled rack of lamb with caramelized salsa. It’s very beautifully plated. Too beautiful to eat? JAG keeps talking about his dish but he doesn’t think to serve the judges. Minor point. But all the judges feel like the dish is too complicated and like something from a restaurant menu.
Then the underdog, Rory, comes in with her baby back ribs. She’s serving it with grilled cantaloupe and a fresh parsley salad. Never heard of a parsley salad, and one of the judge felt it was like eating grass. Rory is definitely personable and funny. She walked off stage right when she should have gone stage left. So the camera showed her walking back with her plate. Oh, calamity Jane. You’re so cute.
In comes Nikki who’s speaking slowly and looks so serious, I was worried she was going to say something scary. July. Is For. Jamaican McCrazy jerk chicken, mon. A few giggles from the judges. She tells the judges that she used brown sugar for sweetness and a lot of different, bold spices. She says jerk chicken shows that she’s a little spicy but sweet at the same time. Bob Tuschman agrees about Nikki’s description of herself. But one of the other judges says the jerk chicken was more sweet than spicy. Another judge thought she was low energy. I know. You’d think with all the sugar she’d be more peppy.
Finally, Paul does his presentation. He made Colorado lamb chops with a citrus marinade, and he decorated the chops with those fancy French paper booties that Paul says represents fireworks exploding. Oh my, he just stopped to take a deep breath in front of the panel. There’s another one. He’s telling himself to breathe in and out, like this is some kind of Lamaze demonstration. The judges look afraid, like Paul’s going to hyperventilate in front of them. Paul knows he didn’t do well. As they go to commercials, he’s near tears over all the stress of screwing up.
Back from commercials, everyone’s waiting for the judges to call them. Paul is crying in the back and says he doesn’t want to go home. (I’d be crying too if I were caught in such unflattering camera light as well.)
They all gather downstairs with the judges and the Bon Appétit editor, who says she wanted the “wow” factor. She says she liked the presentation of Michael’s dish of grilled chicken. Again, they mention the amazing technique of burning herbs. Please. Kill. Me. Now.
They also like Rory’s ribs and liked the grilled cantaloupe. The editor names this dish as the winning recipe (really? Wow?). Rory almost bursts into tears. Everyone seems really happy for her because I think everyone really did feel she was the underdog. Bob Tuschman says last week she was “calamity Jane” and this week she’s the “comeback queen.” Bob’s not that great with original nicknames. (BTW, I’m starting to get why I’m not a big fan of the judging duo of Bob and Susie. Bob’s too calm and Susie always looks disinterested. I can’t believe she’s in marketing.)
Since both Rory and Michael were named the favorite dishes by Bon Appétit, they’re the first two who are deemed safe and go on to the next round.
Bob says the elimination is getting tougher, and tougher, and tougher. Um, this is only the second week, Bob, so it’s only getting tougher and tougher. Then Bob, Susie, and Giada take turns critiquing each contestant and it went something like this: Paul, he had too much energy like a Jack Russell Terrier and made the judges nervous; Adrien is warm and charming on TV but his food doesn’t taste or look good; Tommy doesn’t talk on TV which doesn’t help in a one-man show; Amy is a great storyteller but doesn’t follow directions (Giada dings her for not showing any grill marks, which I think is a minor point. Can you imagine if you were cut off a show because of grill marks? I bet Amy wanted to show Giada some grill marks); JAG is too complex and his recipe had 14 words in the title, which apparently are one too many words for the readers of Bon Appétit; Nikki’s jerk chicken had no spice or heat and she’s too “rehearsed” (that’s the kind word for it, I think “the walking dead” is a better description); and Colombe lacks authority and Giada calls her out on hiding behind the girly smile.
Then they name who will be going on to the next round: JAG, Amy, Tommy and Paul (who is sooo thankful). Colombe is also safe, leaving only Adrien and Nikki. (Hey, I thought Adrien did much better this week than last. Is he really in the bottom two?) Bob says that Adrien moves on, which means they have to say “good night” to Nikki. This show has got to have a better sign off. I mean, I’m not a big fan of “pack your knives and go” but at least it’s more original than “good night.”
Nikki says in her exit interview that she’s a fighter and she’s going to keep pursuing her dream. She’s probably also going to demand a refund from Toastmasters. The gang gives her a big applause as she leaves. Then everyone turns to congratulate Rory who’s going to be on the cover of Bon Appétit with her innovative barbeque baby back ribs. Yes, baby back ribs. Who would have thought to barbeque ribs? Oh wait, half of America does it every summer. Anywho, she’s nice about it so I guess it’s OK.
Next on TNFNS: Guy Fieri, last year’s winner, is the guest judge and he announces that two of them will be going home. (Geesh, do I really need to watch? Guy, just tell me who wins already.) And the contestants feel the pressure as Tommy calls home and cries, Amy gets into a fight, and Paul has what sounds like a health issue with his dish. If he gives someone food poisoning, I’m tuning in! (Oh, what am I saying? You know I’ll be watching either way to do these recaps. All you people who were watching the series finale of “The Sopranos” instead can thank me later for not giving away the ending. Or was that really an ending?)
Tomorrow: Check back to see what I would have done for the Bon Appétit challenge.
The Next Food Network Star airs on the Food Network at 9 p.m. Sunday and repeats at the same time Thursday. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.
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Labels: Food TV Recaps
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Summer at the Markets
Summer is just around the corner (officially it's here next week Thursday) and I'm starting to see a lot of summer vegetables and fruits at the markets. At the Temescal Farmers Market this morning, I saw two farmers selling these interesting looking squash. They call it "sunburst." Supposedly, they're really sweet. I just think they're cute.
And also at the market was broccoli rabe. I just thought it was interesting to see it because my friend David kept talking about it in his posts about eating in Italy. Broccoli rabe is like a weed in Italy, found all along the countryside, according to David. It's definitely a strong, leafy green. I also get broccoli rabe confused with broccotini, which I think actually looks more like a broccoli. But now I know how broccoli rabe looks like.
Coming Up This Week
Come back this week for many more food posts by me, including:
1) Continued recap of "The Next Food Network Star" (episode 2 will be posted Monday night).
2) It's getting hot, so time for ice cream. Read about my visit to Ici Ice Cream shop in Berkeley.
3) Dish on Dining this week will be a review of Two, the new restaurant on Hawthorne Lane in San Francisco.
4) And more recipes, including fresh summer grilled salmon with mango salsa and my adventures cooking a poussin.
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Labels: Food Shopping
Travel: One Day of the Best Italian Food
This is the final report from my friend David’s trip to Italy. Listening to all his descriptions about the food there, I feel like going to North Beach in San Francisco this weekend and sitting outside with a cup of cappuccino. Problem is, North Beach isn’t exactly Rome (or Roma as the locals call it) and I don’t drink cappuccino. Oh well, again, I have to just live vicariously through David’s culinary adventure. Thanks for the posts David and giving us a weekend escape to Italy!
Don’t get me wrong. I loved, loved, LOVED the food my wife and I tried during our two-week vacation in Italy. But since we’ve returned I’ve imagined the perfect Italian meals made up of the best food from our entire trip.
Breakfast
Hands down, our best breakfast was at Ayres, a local bar/café a few blocks from our Rome accommodations near Villa Borghese. Breakfast in Italy is usually just cappuccino and a sweet breakfast roll. My wife, Ann (above), claims the cappuccino here was better than almost anywhere in the states (I loved the espresso). Our breakfast roll of choice was a roll topped with chocolate icing and filled with a chocolate pudding (almost like the kind in those Hostess pies you’d eat as a kid). What I wouldn’t do for one right now!
Lunch
Lunch is generally the biggest meal of the day in Italy. It’s usually eaten after 1:30 or 2 p.m. The best lunch item I tried was also at the aforementioned Ayres Café – a cold salad of risotto rice, smoked salmon, olive oil and fresh mint. In fact, this may have been the single best thing I ate in Italy. The salad was perfect on a hot day with lots of flavor from the salmon and the fresh mint. I also liked the café’s fried calamari, which was tender but not greasy. 
My ideal lunch would also include the “stracchino rucola e pachino” pizza at Rome’s La Limonai, a great lunch spot in a restored lemon warehouse on an estate once owned by Mussolini. The pizza had a thin, crunchy crust topped with fresh arugula, tomatoes and stracchino—a creamy, mild cow’s milk cheese. Stracchino is usually eaten as a dessert cheese, but was an inspired choice for the pizza.
Afternoon snack
Hey, I had to throw in another meal somewhere. Pizza to-go counters are everywhere in Rome. My favorite was the pizza topped with tuna fish and tomato sauce at delizie di pizza in Rome. You order at the counter and the pizza is cut into square strips and weighed. It’s cheap and delicious. [[My favorite pizza by the slice in Rome is the artichoke hearts. They were piled on and dee-lish!—ben]]
Dinner
Dinner in Italy can be a smaller meal than lunch, but there are no rules. It’s usually eaten after 9 p.m. I’ve separated my favorite dishes into the traditional categories you’d find on an Italian menu:
Antipasti (appetizers)
My two favorites were the caprese salad and the baked ricotta. We ate the caprese salad at Pulalli Wine Bar on the island of Capri. Many Americans are familiar with caprese salad (Roma tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh basil, olive oil and a sprinkling of oregano), but did you know that it originated on Capri? The salad here was so good because the ingredients tasted as if they had just been picked from a garden. The tomatoes were sweet and had a crunch and weren’t soft and mealy. 
We had the baked ricotta at a restaurant called La Fossa del Grano in the small southern Italian town of San Severo. The baked ricotta, made entirely of ricotta cheese, had the consistency of an airy, rich soufflé.
Primo (usually pastas)
I have to admit that of all the food we tried in Italy, the pastas weren’t my favorites. Still, there was one that easily was tops: the linguini in clam sauce at Il Giardino Romano in Rome’s Jewish Ghetto. The pasta, of course, was al dente (cooked “to the bite”) and the sauce was flavored with clams, white wine and olive oil. It’s a simple and hearty dish.
Secondi (entrees)
We tended to eat mostly antipasti and pastas rather than meats on our trip. Still, the veal steak and veal meatballs served at the home of my brother-in-law’s parents in San Severo were truly memorable. The veal steak was seasoned just right, the meatballs were flavorful but not greasy and the sides of broccoli rabe and fresh mozzarella capped the perfect secondi.
Dolce (dessert)
We didn’t eat a lot of desserts after dinner, mostly because we had already filled up on gelato in the afternoon. [[MMM, love gelato! Doesn't everyone?—ben]] For the record, my favorite was the pistachio gelato at Gelateria dei Gracchi in Rome (amazingly, I forgot to take pictures!). In lieu of choosing a favorite dolce, we loved the after-dinner liqueurs at La Fossa del Grano. The waiter brought us two bottles, one a liqueur made of lemons (limoncello) and the other made of bay leaf. The liqueurs have a somewhat thick syrupy consistency and are meant for sipping. Just be careful how much you drink or you’ll be stumbling home.
— David
P.S. Thanks Ben for letting me share my Italian food experiences!
Photos courtesy of David Kligman. All rights reserved.
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Saturday, June 09, 2007
Travel Dish: Discovering the `Drunken Grape’
This is the second of three reports from my friend David’s gastronomical escapades in Italy. Today he discovers an Italian wine bar (which is actually perfect for solo travelers because it’s very casual and you might meet a local or two at the counter).
Before we arrived in Italy for our two-week vacation, my wife and I vowed not to go to one of those touristy restaurants. Yes, we were tourists. But why travel thousands of miles somewhere just to eat mediocre, overpriced food?
So we prepped. While killing time at LAX looking at magazines during our journey we spotted an article in the latest issue of Condé Nast Traveler, their annual restaurant “Hot List.” We scribbled down the name of one of the three choices for Rome: L’Acino Brillo.
To say L’Acino Brillo is far from the touristy areas of Rome is an understatement. We traveled by tram, underground train and by foot to find this tiny restaurant in a piazza in the very local Garbatella neighborhood. We got a bit lost, but when we asked two women for help they not only gave us directions but walked with us about five blocks to make sure we could find our way (my wife’s Italian definitely came in handy!).
When we finally saw the restaurant, it was like we had discovered an elusive pot of gold. L’Acino Brillo (“The drunken grape”) is actually a modest little wine bar. We navigated the menu, written only in Italian, of course. These were the highlights of our meal:
** Potato and asparagus-filled pasta
** A nouveau shrimp cocktail topped with a fava bean puree
** Seared salmon encrusted in sesame seeds with a side of perfectly cooked green beans
** A dessert tart and cookie sampler that was so ungodly large we only ate half
In terms of the food, we liked the dessert the best. I can’t say the cuisine was the tastiest of our Italian trip, but I admire what the restaurant does considering its tiny staff (only two on the night we were there).
But I digress. Our adventure was only just beginning. Our dinner lasted nearly three hours (common for European meals) and like Cinderella we rushed to the subway station to make the last train at midnight only to discover we were too late! Not able to get a cab anywhere, we trekked two miles to the nearest cab stand. We were never so grateful to step into a taxi.
We were exhausted, but this was one culinary adventure we won’t soon forget.
— David
The bread basket
The restaurant’s two-person staff.
The wines were from every Italian region.
Seafood cocktail
Potato and asparagus-filled pasta
Seared tuna
Dessert sampling
Next: Our culinary highlights in Italy.
Photos courtesy of David Kligman. All rights reserved.
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Friday, June 08, 2007
Travel: Family Dinner in Southern Italy
I love to travel, but don’t have the budget to do more than one trip a year. (And that was to Saigon in January, which seems so long ago now. Sigh.) So recently I’ve been living vicariously through my friend David, who traveled to Italy to visit his wife's newborn niece. I asked him to write up some of his food observations because 1) I love Italy and Italian cooking and 2) I know it’ll be a few years before I visit Italy again because my list of countries I still haven’t visited keeps getting longer. (Next year: Brazil?)
The following is the first of three posts from David. He starts with an intimate, traditional family dinner. I love how families in foreign countries typically invite visitors into their homes and throw these simple but festive dinners showcasing food from the land. When relatives come to the United States, why do we always end up taking them to a restaurant? Hmmm, something to ponder. Maybe you’ll find some insight in David’s post:
My wife, Ann, and I recently visited Italy for two weeks to visit Ann’s sister, husband and their newborn daughter, Zoe. Aside from family, of course the other highlight was the food (no surprise, right? This is a food blog!).
One of the biggest treats was visiting my brother-in-law’s family in the small southern Italian town of San Severo in the Foggia province. Our first night there the family (six members that night) prepared a simple but delicious dinner for their American guests.
Since this was Italy, we didn’t eat until about 9:30 p.m. You get used to eating late. Besides, the bigger meal of the day is lunch, so the evening meal is generally simpler and not as heavy.
As you’ll see in the photos below, the food is fresh and simple. Recipes are very uncomplicated—lots of fruits and vegetables. In fact, dessert is usually a pear or an apple followed by an aperitif.
The meal was served family style. Everybody digs in and you take as much or as little as you want. Our main course was veal, prepared two ways. The first was a veal steak, pounded thin, and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. My favorite, though, were my sister-in-law’s veal meatballs. The meatballs were flavorful and were a great accompaniment to the side of rapini, also known as broccoli rabe. If you haven’t tried it, rapini – essentially nutty, bitter leaves with small broccoli buds – are a big staple in southern Italy. You can find rapini in the United States, but usually at places like Whole Foods and other high-end grocery stores. [[I see broccoli rabe and broccotini at my Safeway—ben]] That’s interesting considering that in Italy the greens are so popular because they’re cheap and plentiful.
I was also impressed with the fresh balls of mozzarella, which were creamy but weren’t stringy and didn’t have that briny flavor sometimes found in U.S.-made mozzarella.
Also served was fresh Italian country bread cut from a bread wheel that was the size of a donut tire. Perfect for dipping in our host’s homemade olive oil.
Following the main course was an arugula and chicory salad. In Italy and other parts of Europe, salad is usually eaten after the main course. Finally, we were treated to homemade liqueurs, one from lemons and the other made from walnuts.
As they say in Italy, “Delicioso!”
— David
Salim’s veal meatballs
This is my sister-in-law’s recipe. There are no exact measurements. It’s really a recipe intended to be made using a little bit of this and a little bit of that. Experiment to see what works best for you.
Ground veal (Italians also sometimes use beef or lamb)
Spoonful of oil (olive, of course!)
Fresh mint
Bread crumbs to bind
Egg (usually just one; the mixture shouldn’t be runny)
Grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients. Lightly roll the meatballs in flour and sauté in olive oil until meatballs are firm and cooked thoroughly. Drain on paper towels.
Scenes from dinner:
Fresh rapini, ready for boiling
My plate
Salvatore, our host
My brother-in-law, Lele, slices bread
After-dinner aperitifs
Home video of our dinner
Next: Discovering Rome’s “Drunken Grape.”
Photos and video courtesy of David Kligman. All rights reserved.
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Wednesday, June 06, 2007
Dish on Dining: Range
Good food well within range
842 Valencia St. (between 19th and 20th Streets), San Francisco
Mission District
PH: 415.282.8283
Open daily, 5:30 to 10 p.m. (until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday)
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
http://www.rangesf.com/
When did restaurants start taking Sundays off instead of Mondays? During a recent hunt for Sunday dinner in the Mission district, several new places I wanted to try were closed. That’s when I was drawn to the warm glow of Range.
Range isn’t that new, having opened in 2005 by the husband-and-wife team of Phil and Cameron West. (He from the kitchen of Bacar and she from the front of Delfina.) But it was new to me and my tired feet.
I was warmly greeted by the front-of-the-house staff, who gladly seated me at a bar table since I was dining alone. The service was friendly from beginning to end, including my waiter, other servers and a brief visit by Cameron West herself (see, some restaurateurs do work on Sundays). You feel welcomed in the décor that’s contemporary and very California. (I was, however, perplexed by the name of the place. I didn’t really see any stove-top ranges but there were a few nostalgic pieces decorating the walls such as a “watch repair” sign and a huge refrigerator at the center of the bar that looks like it used to be a blood bank.)
Range’s menu isn’t very extensive, but it highlights what’s fresh and in season. If nothing else, Range introduced me to the wonders of the aprium. Never heard of it? Neither did I.
The aprium is another one of those hybrid fruits. And it’s supposedly a plum and apricot, but leaning more toward the apricot side. It was featured in my starter salad of shaved fennel and goat cheese tossed in a light lemon vinaigrette. The aprium slices, which reminded me of persimmons, added a nice sweetness to contrast with the vinaigrette. This was all complemented by the crunch of the fennel.
Most of the main entrée offerings on the menu focused on fish. But that damn Anthony Bourdain’s tip of not eating fish on the weekends (I know, it shouldn’t apply to San Francisco where everything’s fresh) kept ringing in my head so I ordered the leg of lamb with fava beans. The lamb is cooked at medium per the kitchen’s directions, and that was fine by me. They were cut like medallions and sat on a bed of green mush, which consisted of bits of fava beans and lemon parsley sauce. I’m a big fan of lamb but the lamb here was a bit overpowered by the bacon-flavored sauce underneath. Overall, the dish was satisfying but not tantalizing like the salad.
Side note: I ordered a glass of the 2003 Chianti Classico with my lamb and it was a nice, smooth wine that didn’t overpower my meal.
Range apparently gets a lot of attention for its dessert, and I was impressed by its diversity. I usually tell my friends when I’m eating out with them that I don’t order dessert unless it’s something not typically found on the menu. That means I don’t typically order chocolate cakes, apple pies, ice cream trios or crème brulee (although I really do love crème brulee) because these are common dessert selections often featured at restaurants. At Range, there were a lot of different creations to choose from, including a tart that featured apriums (it really must be in season), cornmeal crepes, a strawberry shortcake with Meyer lemon ice cream, and a soufflé. I ordered the “crimson baby nectarine ice cream puffs.”
The puffs were not as flakey as I imagined, but the ice cream filling was fresh and subtle in flavor—not too sweet and not too tart—with just a few bits of nectarines. The puffs were served with a few fresh raspberries.
Range ends your meal with hand-made truffles. Classy touch and again really accentuates the service-aspect of this establishment.
I may have been influenced by the fact that I was totally hungry by the time I found Range, but it did get more crowded after I arrive. So others have also apparently made this restaurant a regular spot among the many choices in this neighborhood that has launched many well-known eateries. The food is amusingly interesting at reasonable prices and the staff is comfortably friendly. You definitely feel like your home on the Range.
Single guy rating: 3 stars (perfect for foodies looking for a friendly environment)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner![]()
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I’ve been tagged—by a meme
I just got my first blogosphere tag (known as a “meme”) by The Passionate Eater. So I guess I’m supposed to blog about my “top 5 favorite places to eat in San Francisco.” This is tough because there are so many places to eat around the Bay Area that it’s very rare that I go to a restaurant again and again and again. There’s always something new to try.
And then of course, some of my best meals in San Francisco happened at places that I haven’t been to recently so I can’t say whether they would still be in my Top 5. (“The Fifth Floor” is a perfect example. I had a luxurious dinner there five years ago but it’s gotten a lot of mixed buzz and experienced a lot of kitchen changes lately.)
Anywho, here are my five, in no particular order. And no, I don’t have them speed-dialed into my mobile.
1) Limon, 524 Valencia St., 415.252.0918. In my current ceviche phase, I count this Peruvian restaurant among my favorites for its warm charm and fresh and tasty food. Yes, they fry a lot of things (which is why I stick with the ceviches) but they do it so well. Stylish neighborhood charm in the Mission District.
2) Foreign Cinema, 2534 Mission St., 415.648.7600. A classic where the rustic-but-sophisticated décor matches the food. Clean California-French cuisine is delivered in a beautiful ambiance, whether it’s at night with an old movie playing against the wall or a brightly lit open room for brunch.
3) Ebisu, 1283 Ninth Ave., 415.566.1770. People sometimes think this sushi master show gets a bit overdone and they try the latest, hottest sushi spot, but there’s a reason why this longtime sushi restaurant continues to draw them in. The fish is fresh and the rice is lovingly cooked to perfection.
4) Chez Papa, 1401 18th St., 415.824.8210. If you love being served by people with a foreign accent, especially a French one, then this charming neighborhood bistro is your place. Set in Potrero Hill, I’ve always had great meals at this tiny dining room. But I get more fun pretending I’m in France because virtually every server has an accent. I’m looking forward to a second Chez Papa that’s planned for the South of Market area.
5) Firefly, 4288 24th St., 415.821.7652. One of the first California restaurants to do Asian fusion right, I love this Noe Valley classic. It has a warm, cozy setting that makes you feel like you’re home. Then the cooking takes you to new places! It has a limited menu, but it always contains something interesting that reflects California’s abundance.
I have to say, even though this is my first meme tag, it pretty much ends here. I don’t really know too many other food bloggers that I would feel comfortable tagging. (I probably would have tagged you, PE.) So like the many chain letters I’ve broken in my life, this meme ends with me. Oh well. Check please!
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Labels: Stuff
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Chocolate + Cherries = Heaven
With summer just around the corner and more fresh fruits at the market, I’ve found that I’ve been doing a lot of dessert postings lately. The other day it was strawberries, and today it’s cherries. Remember the cherries I bought recently that weren’t too crunchy yet because it’s early in the season? Well, I thought chocolate might help it out. (Wouldn’t it be great if all life’s problems could just be solved by dipping them in chocolate? But then again, would you really eat a chocolate-covered Bush?) Most people dip strawberries, but I realized that cherries are more pretty encased in rich chocolate. And it comes with its own handle for dipping! So easy. Don’t they just look heavenly below? The only downside is you still have to deal with the pit. But you can't appreciate pleasure without having experienced the pits. ;-)
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Chocolate-Dipped Cherries
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
2 dozen fresh cherries with stem (about 1 lb.)
3/4 cup semi-sweet chocolate (or dark chocolate)
2 T milk
1 T Kahlua liqueur
Chop your chocolate into chunks and place in double-boiler with milk. Slowly melt your chocolate into a smooth, silky texture (add more milk if needed), stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Remove from heat and then blend in Kahlua (or your favorite liqueur).
Dip each cherry individually in the chocolate and then place on a cooling rack with parchment or wax paper underneath to collect the drippings. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Makes about 2 dozen chocolate-dipped cherries. Serve in little boxes or bowls.
TIP: A double-boiler is good for melting your chocolate without scalding or burning it if placed in a pan directly on heat. If you don’t have a double boiler, you can simply get a pot or saucepan with boiling water and then place a heat-resistant bowl on top. Place your ingredients into the bowl, and the heat from the boiling water underneath creates the same effect as a double-boiler.
OUT OF SEASON: This is a great idea now with all the fresh cherries around, but this recipe will also work with maraschino cherries. Just make sure you buy the ones with the stems in tact.
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Labels: Recipe
Monday, June 04, 2007
The Next Food Network Star: Episode 1
OK, here we go. Season three of “The Next Food Network Star” starts up with a frenzied montage of what’s coming up this season. We get it. It’s a fast-pace, stressful competition. Like Iron Chef for novices. And one of the main prize, other than their own food show, is a big ass 2008 Mercury Mariner (a compact SUV). Gas definitely not included.
We start with scenes from (sigh) New York City, where most of the Food Network shows are filmed. I miss New York. Anywho, Colombe is the first to arrive and I feel like this is the beginning of “The Real World.” She’s so hot. And it seems like this season the contestants got colorful new temporary digs, with bunk beds just like summer camp. Next is the Brazilian ex-swimsuit model Vivien. This IS the Real World: New York. Did I turn to the wrong channel? No, I’m good. I know because MTV is airing its MTV Movie Awards. (Speaking of which, was that kiss between Will Ferrell and Sacha Baron Cohen H-O-T?? What two straight guys won’t do for a laugh.) Back to the Food Network, the first guy arrives and he’s the scary bald guy, Michael Salmon. (Like the fish. His words, not mines. He’ll repeat this quite often in the next two hours.) OK, so this isn’t the Real World because the guys aren’t that hot looking. A whole string of other contestants come one by one. There’s Paul, my favorite, from L.A. He’s going to be the funny one, I think. And it’s not because he’s the openly gay one.
Joshua Adam Garcia comes in calling himself JAG. It really annoys me that he says he left the military TWO years ago but he comes in still wearing fatigues. Better watch out or Bush will draft you again, and no food show for you, JAG.
OK, more contestants. At this point, who really cares because it’s too early to be invested in anyone.
The contestants notice a fruit basket in the room, with a DVD. The background music plays a “Mission Impossible”-like tempo. (You know it’s always Mission Impossible or Charlie’s Angel for these mystery “assignments.”) They play the DVD and--BAM--up pops out Emeril. He welcomes the gang and tells them the non-surprise that one of them will get his/her own show and that a van is waiting outside to take them to their first food challenge. (I am really amazed how these people are so willing to go into an unmarked white van in New York City!)
They arrive at the Food Network studios and in come Bobby Flay and two other judges—Bob Tuschman, senior vp for programming, and Susie Fogelson, vp of marketing. All three are dressed like it’s the finale show. Bob and Susie have been the judges from the very first season and I have to say they’re the most scariest judges of all the reality competition shows I can think of. The two don’t come off well on TV, IMHO. (Ooops, there goes my chances of reapplying next year. LOL.)
Bobby tells them their first challenge is a potluck dinner and they each have to make a course that represents who they are. They have one hour to plan and create their dish, after each picking a course from a piece of paper in a saucepan. They rush off and start cooking.
I’m really impressed how everyone’s getting into making some really fancy dishes in just one hour. Patrick (another bald guy and a sous chef from Seattle) and JAG both picked the appetizer courses, and they’re both using scallops and shrimp, two of the fastest cooking ingredients.
Mike the Salmon guy is being a nice guy and he’s helping Tommy (the “big boy” of the group from Massachusetts), who is making cioppino, by making the croistini for Tommy. Apparently you can’t have cioppino without croistini. But, of course, he didn’t totally finish making the bread by the deadline. So the early lesson for Tommy? You only have yourself to count on. Don’t depend on some stranger, especially a competitor.
They go to Emeril Live’s studio to show off their plates. Each goes up one by one describing what they make. JAG comes up first and shows his seafood bruschetta. He says he JAG-ged it up to make food feel sexy. (Funny, when I look at him I don’t think Enrique Iglesias.)
Patrick is next and he makes scallops wrapped in what he calls prosciutto. In a taped interview, Tommy says it was actually salami. When Bobby Flay asks Patrick again what was used to wrap around the scallops, Patrick says pancetta. Patrick. Patrick. Patrick. Get your Italian meats correct. You might as well wrapped it with bacon so you wouldn’t get confused.
The other dishes include a thai curry halibut, roasted butternut squash with greens, orzo pasta with grilled tofu, oven roasted potato cakes, flank steak with red-wine-shallot sauce, brandy bread pudding and mango “puff and stuff.” (Hey, Nikki used puff pastry. I would have made that!)
The contestants all eat their food to fulfill the “potluck dinner” portion of tonight’s programming while the judges do their first deliberation. Since this is a two-hour show, I’m not going to go into the details of their discussion as they basically tear into everybody with only a few good tastes here and there. In the end, the winner of this challenge was Colombe and her roasted butternut squash side dish. (It did look really tasty and who doesn’t love roasted vegetables?) But they don’t really say what it means with her winning this first challenge.
They show everyone going to bed, and Tommy talking about how he snores. Yes, if this was a one-hour episode, this would have been the segment I would have edited out.
The gang wakes up and they all get these cute gray Food Network chef coats. They jump in the van again and head to the Roosevelt Hotel and a typical banquet hall with a big wedding cake in the middle. Along with Bobby Flay is Duff Goldman of “Ace of Cakes” (a program I never watch because I’m not a baking-and-sweets kind of guy). They all have 90 minutes to decorate wedding cakes as their next challenge, and everyone feels they’re screwed because no one apparently has a baking background either.
Duff talks about fondant, and only one person (Amy the stay-at-home mom with a French culinary school experience) has used fondant before. Personally, fondant looks great and smooth for wedding cakes, but it’s just so thick and sometimes too sweet that I’m not a big fondant cake person. Everyone gets busy decorating their cakes, and apparently some contestants don’t understand that this is supposed to be a wedding cake as Vivien of Brazil makes some weird tri-color cake, and Rory from Texas makes a Texas sunset-inspired cake, except, as she says, the sun is setting into grass. (Big give away that this cake is not going to win.)
In the middle of the challenge, Tommy, Paul and Patrick go to a bottle of vodka that’s apparently there to thin out icing and the three guys do a shot together. Party boys!
Paul makes a classic-looking cake using strawberries to line the white fondant-covered cake. But as the openly gay guy, he puts two grooms on the top of his cake. I give him big points for not hiding his gayness as some other gay contestants have done on other reality shows.
Oh, gawd. JAG just tried to do a “Bam” and jumped up but basically stumbled over his round behind. He is sooo lucky he didn’t roll over another contestant’s cake. What an ass. Can I say that on TV? What am I saying, this is the Internet.
When the competition is over, Duff singles out the two colored cakes (Vivien’s and Rory’s) as the most off-putting cakes. And the winner is Amy who does a classic cake inspired by the hotel’s chandelier. It’s a simple white cake with blue dots. Talk about winning with simplicity. I give her credit for not overdoing it. But at the same time, I’m like DOTS?! She just got blue frosting and made a dot pattern around her cake. And it wins?? DOTS people!
After naming Amy the winner, Duff introduces Chef Robert Irvine of “Dinner: Impossible.” I’ve seen a couple of episodes of this show and I’ve always found Irvine to be a tad scary. It doesn’t seem to me Irvine’s about the taste of food as much as he’s into bossing people around. He tells them they have to cater a wedding for 100 people in six hours.
The group is split into two teams, with the winners of the two past challenges, Colombe and Amy, named team leaders. Amy is smart because she picks most of the working caterers for her team. Of course, there are 11 contestants so there’s an odd man out (actually woman, because it was Vivien from Brazil). To even the teams, Vivien gets to choose her team and the other team gets $500 extra in their wedding food budget. (Vivien, you just found out how much you're worth: 500 smackeroos!) Vivien joins Amy’s team and Colombe’s team gets extra cash for food. Even though she gets the extra cash, Colombe is still saying in her voice-over how she’s worried there won’t be enough money for the party.
They meet the couple: Jennifer and David. Sigh, she’s a vegetarian, which means we have to have some vegetarian dishes in this challenge. Jennifer is a bit odd. When Chef Irvine asks her what style of food she likes, she says “flavorful.” Shouldn’t that be the style for all food?
Chef Irvine (this guy should so be an Army sergeant) shouts out that Colombe’s team is now the “orange” team and Amy’s team is the “green” team. The two teams start planning their menus, and then they go shopping while some stay behind to start prepping for the wedding, which will take place later that same day. What some couples will do for a free meal for their weddings; hire unknown, untried Food Network contestants. Good luck!
When everyone gets back and starts cooking, Nikki of the green team is supposed to make dessert and she wanted the alcohol, which her teammates couldn’t get because grocery stores in New York City don’t sell liquor. (I know. I was shocked too when I lived there. And liquor stores are all closed on Sundays too!) Nikki is pissed. She also doesn’t know what a cobbler is. She tells Chef Irvine that she’s making a peach-raspberry cobbler in a martini glass. She’ll layer a crust, then some fruit, then cover with more crust. “So you’re making a pie,” Chef Irvine says. “Yes, a cobbler,” Nikki replies, annoyed that Chef Irvine is questioning her knowledge of a cobbler. Apparently, Nikki feels a cobbler in the West is made like a pie, unlike how cobblers are made in the rest of the country, especially in the south. That’s all I’m going to say on cobbler-gate.
Chef Irvine is shocked that the orange team has spent a little less than $800 when they had more than $2,000 in their budget. Wow, this is really going to be a budget wedding.
Basically, the green team is on target and moving forward while the orange team is a mess and all that team’s members, which happen to all be men, are placing the blame on their leader, the only woman, Colombe.
The wedding: the two teams present their food, first the appetizers for the cocktail hour and then a buffet dinner. Top choices are the mango won tons from Paul (You know, I thought he was going to stuff the won tons with mango, but it was actually a goat-cheese filled won ton with a mango chutney. Ugh, I hate it when people aren’t clear with their labeling), the pepper beef from Adrien (a self-taught cook from Michigan who gets nervous easily) and potato gratin with broccoli rabe from JAG. (Tommy, BTW, pronounces rabe as “Robby.”)
Other highlights: Tommy is in charge of making the vegetarian dish and he makes polenta with chicken broth. That throws a wrench into the orange team, which now has to scramble to come up with a more authentic vegetarian dish.
And in another significant scene, Nikki (who owns her own catering company) tries to impress the judges by bringing her cobbler martini to their tables (even though this is a buffet dinner) and she — no she didn’t, yes she did — drops an entire cobbler glass on the side of Bobby Flay’s Calvin Klein suit. Bobby Flay’s all sweet about it, but can you imagine if this was “Top Chef” and Nikki just dropped her cobbler on Tom Colicchio?
The wedding is over. The bride is upset that the orange team again made vegetarian dishes that are just like side dishes. (Maybe she ate the polenta and the chicken broth gave her too much protein and made her grouchy.)
The contestants go home and are told to change into clean clothes after cooking all day. They go downstairs to find out that the winner of the wedding challenge is the green team, which is no surprise. This makes Amy, the team leader, the first to be named safe and she goes on to the next round. Bob Tuschman gives her her first critique, which is to shut up on Paris. I totally agree (see my original preview of Amy).
Everyone goes upstairs while the judges deliberate. While they wait, Adrien gets all high and mighty against Paul about how he should have told Tommy about the chicken broth even though he’s on another team. He says it’s not fair to let a misstep like that ruin the wedding day for the couple. Um, this is a competition, Adrien. And the wedding people should know to expect some disasters when they agree to free food.
The judges request the first group of five to face judgment: Paul, Nikki, Tommy, Mike and Adrien. You know this is like American Idol where they’re the middle-ground people and safe. They all receive their critiques: Tommy is shaky, get a grip. Paul, your food is boring but you have a great personality. Nikki has a bold personality but too bold for a food show? Adrien is playing it safe and needs to punch up his personality. Michael Salmon (like the fish) is told not to use that line any more. He also has the food chops but isn’t showing his personality. Bobby Flay tells Salmon “you can take the other finalists and continue to swim upstream in the search for the next Food Network star.” All the contestants have a brief puzzled look on their face because they don’t get Bobby’s confusing metaphor (or is it an analogy?). When they finally realize that Bobby is telling them they’re safe, they all breathe a sigh of relief.
Next group goes down: Vivien, Colombe, JAG, Patrick and Rory. The critique from the judges: JAG can be a sous chef at any of Bobby’s kitchen, but Tuschman think he’s too angry. Vivien is sweet and charming, but in public she’s a wallflower. Rory is getting by on her personality but her food is disastrous and Tuschman pegs her “calamity Jane.” She tries to explain herself but she gets cut off by Susie Fogelson (told you she’s scary) who says Rory’s attempts to justify herself all the time is off-putting. Colombe is coming off as my favorite because she’s pretty and fun-looking, and Bobby Flay says her food tastes great but she has to demonstrate more personality. Patrick is coming off stiff and looking like he’s not having fun. (Let’s see if he has fun in two minutes.)
Then Tuschman tells this group that two people will be leaving. OUCH, the sound guy just cued up this loud dramatic music like it’s such shocking news. When they come back from commercials, JAG and Rory are spared. (I really thought Rory should go for all her “calamity Janeness.”)
Patrick is the first to go and he runs upstairs and doesn’t say anything to the rest of the gang waiting and goes straight to his room to pack. Everyone guesses that he’s the first to leave. The second is Vivien, who I’m a bit sorry to see leave because I felt she would have had more personality coming out later. But I’m glad to see my girl Colombe survive. But when she goes upstairs, everyone looks at her like she’s the plague and that she’s the reason Vivien is going home. The rest of the gang gives a loud applause to the first two victims as they depart the “carriage house.”
So that’s the first episode. What a long one. I’m glad next week will go to the regular one-hour format. Then I won’t be up late re-watching the episode to do these recaps. Next week’s guest judge is Giada DeLaurentiis and the contestants do their first taped segment.
The Next Food Network Star airs at 9 p.m. Sundays. Repeats at 9 p.m. Thursdays. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.
What I Would Have Done?
For the first challenge, where people made something for a potluck dinner, I placed the various entrée categories into a pan and pulled out “appetizer” as my contribution. If I had to make something in an hour for an appetizer, I would have made my ahi poke croistini because it represents who I am: Asian simplicity with a twist. The twist comes from the wasabi-infused crème fraiche I used to top the ahi poki, which is my Hawaiian influence as well. For the recipe, go to my archived post.
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Saturday, June 02, 2007
Serving Up: Kitchen Confidential (The Complete Series) DVD
And now a break from regular programming: I have a confession. I’m a food geek. (Hey, I didn’t say it was a shocking confession.) That means I get into anything food-related, even on television. And I’m not talking about just the shows on The Food Network. I watched the beginning to bitter end of “The Restaurant” on NBC and was one of the 16 viewers of “Kitchen Confidential,” the very short-run TV sitcom on Fox.
Fox aired just four episodes of the 2005 half-hour sitcom, based on the memoir by Anthony Bourdain, before it was pulled like some bad salmon mousse. Two weeks ago, Fox released the complete series DVD (including the nine un-aired episodes) and I got a copy to review.
Now, I’ve never actually read “Kitchen Confidential,” the book. So I can’t say whether the TV series accurately re-imagined Bourdain’s words. And I have to say, when I think of who should portray the Hollywood version of Bourdain, the young Bradley Cooper (“Alias,” “Wedding Crashers”) doesn’t necessarily come screaming to mind. (Cooper actually would have been better portraying Rocco DiSpirito. Maybe then “The Restaurant” would have been renewed for another season.)
But turns out Cooper was perfect for the role because “Kitchen Confidential,” the TV show, is all about sex, sex and, oh yeah, S-E-X. And oh, what a surprise, the show was produced by Darren Star of “Melrose Place” and “Sex and The City.” But “Kitchen Confidential” is no “Melrose Place.” (Not enough camp.) And it’s no where near “Sex and The City.” (Not enough smart writing.)
So what is, I mean was, “Kitchen Confidential”? Turns out it was a “Scrubs”-wannabe that really hit its stride just as it got yanked by the money-hungry foodies at Fox. It was really in the fourth episode, guest starring Michael Vartan as a hilarious French chef, where I started to become invested in this ensemble cast.
What “Kitchen Confidential” had going for it was a really talented cast. Sure, Cooper is sexy and really convincing as the washed-up, recovering alcoholic chef who shoots back to food rock stardom at a Manhattan restaurant called “Nolita.” But he’s also believable as a person who loves food. Still, the standouts were the rest of the ensemble, including Owain Yeoman as a charming Irish sous chef, Jaime King as the empty-headed hostess, and John Francis Daley (“Freaks and Geeks) as the rook cook. Also, special guest appearances from John Cho (“Harold and Kumar Go to White Castle”).
This kitchen gang, after several courses, gets you believing that they do work well off each other. And there are moments of silly fun that makes the DVD near hilarious. But, unfortunately, these many silly fun moments didn’t add up to create a memorable series. Unlike “Sex and The City,” which was about sex but more so about human relationships, “Kitchen Confidential” was stuck on the sex and couldn’t make the connection between food and life.
Who knows? Maybe if the show had one more season to grow (or the three seasons given to “Arrested Development” to build an audience), then maybe it may have found that voice to make a trendy Manhattan restaurant a believable setting for life’s lessons.
The DVD includes commentaries and two behind-the-scenes featurettes. Ironically, I actually found the featurette, which the cast came back together to produce for the DVD, more filled with depth than the series. I really believed that these actors thought they had a first-rate sitcom on their hands. It got me more invested as well. So if you decide to shell out the $19.99 (on Amazon.com) to purchase this DVD set, then you might watch the featurette first before the main course. It's a situation where it's actually better to have dessert before your dinner.
Photos courtesy 20th Century Fox Studios.
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Friday, June 01, 2007
Getting Fancy With Crème Anglaise
I’ve never made crème anglaise before, but when I read about it awhile back in the Los Angeles Times, I thought I had to make it one day. Why? It’s custard, and I love custard. I think it’s because of the vanilla base.
So recently with strawberries popping up at stores and farmers' markets, I was inspired to make a dessert with crème anglaise. The strawberries, sad to say, have not been super sweet in my opinion. So I wanted to dress it up with something sweet. I initially thought of making mini-tarts but I couldn’t find those pre-made frozen tart shells I used to see at my grocery store. You know me. I’m single so I’m not going to bother baking tart shells from scratch, so for dessert, the more frozen the better.
What I found were these puff pastry shells. I’ve had some success using frozen puff pastry, so I decided to create strawberry cream puffs using the puff pastry shells and crème anglaise. It turned out great, and easy to make. But only after several tries of getting the crème anglaise just right.
Below is my recipe for the crème anglaise, with ingredients to just make a small cup. I don’t get why all recipes online force you to make a whole tub of crème anglaise when it’s really just an accent to a dish. Plus, eating too much crème anglaise, no matter how good, is probably bad for your cholesterol. So that’s why I think it’s nice just as a special occasion, especially when you have fresh berries to dress. (As you can see above, I used the leftover crème anglaise to dress up some fresh berries for Sunday brunch one day.)
Crème anglaise isn’t as simple as it seems. The difficult part is getting the right low temperature when you’re cooking it to thicken the sauce. If you have the heat too high, it stays liquid and hot. But at a lower heat, it’ll slowly cook the eggs to thicken like custard. But too low a heat makes you bored at the stovetop. (Your crème anglaise also thickens when left in the refrigerator.) Turns out my stovetop required a medium heat to kick the eggs into action. Test the heat with your stovetop, from low to medium, to see what works best. And then just wait to see it slowly thicken into creamy goodness. Enjoy!
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Strawberry Cream Puffs
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
1 package (10 oz.) frozen puff pastry shells (6 shells)
7 to 8 fresh strawberries
¾ cup crème anglaise (recipe below)
powdered sugar for dusting
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
Remove the pastry shells from packaging and place on non-stick or parchment-lined cookie sheet. Bake per instructions and then set aside to cool.
Assemble your cream puffs by removing the cap of your puff pastry shell, adding a tablespoon of crème anglaise inside and filling with sliced strawberries. Place the cap back on top (optional) and dust with powdered sugar.
Makes 6 cream puffs.
TIP: You can bake as many shells as you plan to eat, so don’t feel like you have to make all the puffs at once. Refrigerate your crème anglaise and strawberries and then bring them out to assemble your puffs as you bake them when you want.
Crème anglaise:
½ pint heavy cream
1 t vanilla extract
2 T sugar
3 egg yolks
1 T Kahlua or other liqueur
Warm heavy cream in a small saucepan until it’s almost boiling.
In another saucepan, whisk egg yolks with sugar and vanilla extract. Whip well until mixture turns into a pale yellow and creates thick ribbons (about 3 to 5 minutes). Pour the warm milk slowly into the egg mixture and blend well.
Place saucepan with all the ingredients over medium heat and cook until thick custard forms, stirring occasionally. About 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and add Kahlua. Then cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
Makes ¾ cup.
TIP: When adding the warm milk to egg, drizzle just a little at a time while stirring the eggs at the same time. This is called “tempering” the eggs and the slow drizzle prevents the eggs from turning into scrambled eggs.
BERRIES AND CREAM: The crème anglaise you make above is used to make the cream puffs. But it taste just as great by itself and you can simply drizzle it on fresh berries for a quick dessert or make a slice of pie extra special by drizzling the crème anglaise on top.
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