We’re getting an early preview of summer in the Bay Area right now with the heat, so you know everyone’s thinking about ice cream, sorbet, gelato and other ways to cool off. I rarely eat ice cream because I’m not big on sweets (or fat), but there’s always something nice about a smooth, hand-made ice cream or gelato as you’re walking around the neighborhood on a beautiful sunny day.
I recently went to get my haircut in the Elmwood neighborhood of Berkeley. And while there are a few restaurants in the area, I think one of main attractions these days is the 9-month-old Ici ice cream store. Ici, which means “here” in French, sells hand-made ice creams made with organic ingredients on the premises. (Thus the emphasis on “here.”) Co-owner Mary Canales (the former pastry chef at Chez Panisse) makes inspiring flavors that changes virtually day to day depending on what ingredients she gets her hands on.
During my first visit after my hair appointment, I strolled in and ordered two scoops of the burnt caramel and cardamom and orange peel (pictured right). I sat at the bench inside the quaint shop (designed by business partner Erik Anderson) and enjoyed the creamy texture of the ice cream. The burnt caramel had a subtle flavor and reminded me of espresso ice cream, while the cardamom was bright, fresh and delicious! I have a bias toward citrus flavors, but I think this flavor would brighten anyone’s day.
I returned to Ici last weekend (for more flavor testing, of course), and saw a crowd of people outside. This was a Sunday afternoon—prime time for ice cream consumption. It inspired me to do a photo essay similar to what I did waiting in line at Tartine Bakery. But in this case, I already knew it would be worth waiting in line for the ice cream since I had been there a week earlier. So here’s a tour of Ici for those of you who haven’t checked out this Berkeley gem yet:
3:45 p.m.—Here I am at the end of the line outside the Ici store. They have this nice bench outside for people to enjoy the ice cream (or wait for people in line).
3:55 p.m.—I reach the “open” sign. This is when I begin to study what flavors I’m going to go with today. Canales does about 10 flavors a day, all seasonal, and they can really change daily. Last time I was there they had strawberry-rhubard ice cream and apricot sorbet, but this time those items were off the menu. (Also gone was my favorite cardamom and orange peel.) The flavors are primarily ice cream with a couple of sorbets (like mango during this visit).
3:58 p.m.—I step inside the tiny store. From the entrance you can look straight down the hallway to the kitchen and see people making ice cream. They always look pretty stress. I can see why with the lines.
4:02 p.m.—As I inch closer to the counter, I can still see through the window that the line continued to grow after me.
Part of Ici’s appeal is its quaint décor, including these signs showing the available flavors. Along with ice cream, I noticed a sign for “affogatto,” which is the Italian ice cream dessert where they pour espresso over vanilla ice cream. I was sooo tempted to order this since I had my first affogatto at Foreign Cinema and loved the combination!
4:04 p.m.—I reach the counter where today they had three people serving. Last time there was only one person. So they do plan for the peak hours.
I order my typical two scoops, this time going with the new flavors “rose-pistachio” and “lemon-amareno cherry.” (I’d never heard of amareno but it’s apparently a sour cherry.) I typically order my ice cream in a cup because I don’t like to spill, but this time I wanted to try their cones, which cost an extra 50 cents.
4:06 p.m.—I stand in line to pay. I had to take this photo fast so I could start licking away at my ice cream. Mmmm, the rose-pistachio was sweet and nutty. I could really taste the fresh, crunchy pistachio. But the winner was the lemon-amareno cherry underneath. Just like the cardamom-orange, it was bright, fresh, tangy and uplifting. It almost made me feel like a kid again, so happy to be discovering new flavors. It was definitely lemony, and I love lemon flavors (so don’t get this if you’re a lemon-puss.) Total paid: $4.25 with cone. (BTW, the cone was light and flakey, but on this particular day the chocolate tip at the end made the cone a bit stale on the bottom.)
At the counter there were a whole bunch of other things to buy like cookies, cones and these orange peels. They’re all decorated in a very French flair.
I like how all their supplies are composted. Here you can dump your spoon and cups.
When I first walked into Ici last year soon after it first opened, I thought it was a bit pretentious. But now after having tried the flavors and quality, I feel lucky that I have access to such great ice cream on the East Bay. I won’t say it’s THE best ice cream around (I still prefer the texture of gelato), but I love the experimentation of flavors offered by Canales. Some are misses (I heard the Irish Stout flavor didn’t go off too well) but many of them are winners (I’m still dreaming of the lemon-amareno). Ici also sells bonbons and ice cream sandwiches that are pretty popular. I think next time I’m going back for the affogattto!
Ici, 2948 College Ave. (at Ashby), Berkeley. PH: 510.665.6054. Open daily from noon (except Monday when it opens later at 2 p.m.) until 9 p.m. (closing later at 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday).
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Scoop on Dining: In Line at Ici
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Tuesday, June 12, 2007
What I Would Have Done: The Bon Appétit Challenge
In the latest episode of “The Next Food Network Star,” the contestants competed for the chance to showcase their recipes on the July cover of Bon Appétit magazine. The theme was “a new way of grilling” and the winner was Rory and her baby back ribs. The editors of Bon Appétit says they’re always looking for recipes that are simple for the home cook, innovative and visually appetizing.
When I thought about what I would have done in the challenge (the contestants had 90 minutes to develop and cook their recipes), I thought about grilled salads because I think that’s a refreshing change from ribs (sorry Rory) and beef that’s typically slapped onto the summer grill. Grilled salads are also fast because it doesn’t take that long to cook. My favorite salad is the traditional Caesar salad, so that’s what I made for my make-believe presentation to the Bon Appétit editors. It’s simple and quick, and I added a twist with my anchovy-Parmesan crostinis instead of croutons. What do you think? Do you think it’s worthy of the July cover of Bon Appétit?
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Grilled Chicken Caesar Salad with Anchovy-Parmesan Crostini
Copyright 2007 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
2 thinly sliced chicken breasts (about 6 oz., 1/2-inch thick)
1 head of romaine lettuce
Slices of sourdough baguette
Parmesan cheese
1 anchovy fillet
2-3 T extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
Caesar dressing:
1 egg yolk
1 anchovy fillet
1 garlic clove, mashed and minced
1 T Dijon mustard
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 T champagne vinegar
2 t honey
lemon zest and juice from half a lemon
1 T grated Parmesan cheese
1 t Worcestershire sauce
pinch of salt and pepper
Heat an outdoor grill or, if cooking inside, a grill pan. Season chicken breasts (on both sides) with salt and pepper and drizzle with olive oil. Grill until cooked (about 2 minutes each side since they’re thinly sliced).
Cut your romaine lettuce in half lengthwise (making sure to keep the end stub intact to hold all the leaves together). Brush salad dressing on your lettuce and then place flat side down on the grill. Cook for about a minute. (If you’re cooking the chicken at the same time, be sure to keep some distance between the lettuce and raw chicken splatter.)
To make anchovy-Parmesan crostini, slice your baguette and then brush with either butter or olive oil. Then mince your anchovy and sprinkle the pieces over the bread. Add grated Parmesan cheese to cover the pieces and place under your oven’s broiler for about a minute.
To make the dressing, start by mashing the anchovy in the bottom of your bowl with a wooden spoon until minced or like a paste. Do the same with the garlic clove. Add egg yolk and whisk really well, adding vinegar, honey, lemon zest, lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce. Then slowly add the olive oil in a steady stream while you continue to whisk. Finish off with whisking in the Parmesan cheese and adding a pinch of salt and pepper. (You can also do all this in the blender.)
Plate your salad with the grilled lettuce and chicken and garnish with Parmesan cheese slices. Serve with your anchovy-Parmesan crostini.
Makes 1 to 2 servings. Pair with a glass of Chardonnay.
TIP: The raw egg is optional, but it adds a bit more creaminess to the dressing. When using raw egg, be careful not to let the egg yolk get in contact with the outside of the shell. Always use fresh eggs and keep your dressing refrigerated until ready to use.
NO SOGGY ROMAINE: When preparing your romaine lettuce, be sure to rinse it to remove any dirt. But before you grill your lettuce, pad with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. And don’t overdo the dressing because that’ll add to the sogginess. Serve extra dressing on the side instead.
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Monday, June 11, 2007
The Next Food Network Star: Episode 2
Previously on TNFNS: The contestants cater a wedding in six hours, Nikki thinks Bobby Flay’s Calvin Klein suit needs a bit of cobbler, and Rory is dubbed “calamity Jane.” But it’s former swimsuit model Vivien and bald Seattle guy Patrick who are the first two to be asked to leave the carriage house. And tonight, Giada DeLaurentiis shows the contestants how to work the camera (and you know she knows how) and everyone vies for the cover of Bon Appétit. (BTW, this is the first TV show I’ve seen that pretty much gives away the whole show in the first 30 seconds.)
Flying glass stars shatter and we cut to the quick scenes of morning in New York (skyline, Central Park joggers, Union Square farmers market, and the carriage house).
“Nothing like morning breath,” we hear Colombe say. Gawd. This is not a good sign of a stellar show ahead. Wake up, Food TV editors!
Contestants are still sleeping in their bunk beds. Apparently, Amy likes to talk in her sleep (and to her invisible kids) and Rory is already voicing over that she’s the underdog in this episode because of her skirting near elimination last week. They head over to Studio B (for Ben!) and in comes Giada.
JAG, who’s probably just as tall as Giada, says in his taped segment “Giada is very hodda.” Just a reminder, this is the guy who “JAGs-up” his food.
Giada tells them their challenge is to “bring food to life.” Yeah, I’d like to see them bring that side of beef back to life. Now that would be magic. She tells them they’ll be doing their first taped segment, which brings an “oh no” from Nikki, who’s a bit concerned. (Nikki, did you realize you’re competing to be in front of the camera every week for six weeks?)
So Giada has broken down one of her recipes from “Everyday Italian” into nine parts and each contestant will have one minute to do one part of the demo. Funny, whenever I watch “Everyday Italian” I never feel a recipe takes more than maybe four, five steps tops. So this must be A Very Special Episode of Everyday Italian.
Amy, who was the team leader for the wedding challenge, seems to be in control again as she sorts out the index cards with the various steps and divvies them out among the other contestants. (It must be the mom in her. BTW, doesn’t her voice remind you of a young Katherine Hepburn? I bet you she’s a bit Irish.)
Then comes the tag-team demo and all I can say is what a train wreck. It’s like someone’s flipping the channels but it’s always the same show but with a different host. First off is Rory, who’s actually very personable in front of the camera, but boy can she talk. Yada, yada, yada, and—ding—her minute is up and she barely finished dredging the chicken breasts. So in comes Mike Salmon who heats butter on a hot pan and creates a smoky kitchen. The smoke distracts him and he starts talking about cooking for your friends and family instead of focusing on the recipe. So far, no one is actually cooking.
So now the demonstration is really falling behind. In comes JAG, who should be competing, really, for “Top Chef.” He goes into sous chef mode and it’s like watching a line of a professional kitchen. He’s putting out fires. He’s cooking the chicken. He motor-chops the shallots. And he makes way for Colombe. Sigh, Colombe. She’s so sweet and innocent, it’s like watching your best friend cook for you on a Friday night. Rory says Colombe reminds her of Snow White, and that inspires the Food Network editors to play this sweet, cheerful music in the background. I really do expect to see an animated blue bird to come flying onto her shoulder. She’s doing really well talking, but like the others, she’s not moving the recipe along and that means the back up happens again. Will this chicken ever get cooked?
Paul comes in and puts out another fire. (I’m so surprised the smoke detector hasn’t gone off by now.) He starts talking about the spinach and then forgets what he was about to say about frozen vs. fresh. (I know how he feels. I’m always forgetting what I want to say when doing my “In The Kitchen” demos for this blog.) He’s thrown off and it’s pretty much downhill from there.
From one hottie to another, next comes Adrien who actually looks very confident in front of the camera. His experience with his local, public-access food show is really helping him now. But how big are his eyebrows? I just noticed that they completely circle his eyes. OK, not completely but pretty darn close.
Next is big boy Tommy. He does this amazing feat where he disappears. That’s right, he walks off to the side of the camera to do some chopping. And Tommy’s pretty big so it’s really noticeable when half of him is gone. He also doesn’t have much to say and actually spends a few seconds near the end just cooking without saying anything. Dead silence is always such a ratings booster.
Amy, the mom, comes in and she’s very personable and does her thing before her time runs out. I really don’t get much out of Amy in this episode. I think she’s smart but the editors are not showing much of her. If she was on American Idol, this is when she would be complaining about not being featured enough to get the votes. And Simon would call her demo “adequate” but with no “X-factor.”
Bringing up the end of this tag-team mess is Nikki. She. Talks. Soooo. SLOW. Did she take a few capsules of valium before she went on the air? You know how people talk really slow like they think you’re slow and won’t understand her? That’s what Nikki is doing here. Of course, she doesn’t finish plating the chicken before time runs out. (Yes, they actually made a chicken dish, with some creamy spinach.)
Giada tells them that they have to stay calm despite the frenzied pace of TV. She gives points to JAG for “taking one for the team.” Wait till she hears that he called her “hodda.”
Right before their next challenge, Amy says in her taped segment that every time she walks into the kitchen, she feels like she wants to puke. Did anyone read the application? This is a cooking show? You have to cook food people want to eat, not want to throw up. Even though we can’t taste the contestants’ food, I’m taking a leap of faith that Amy’s food probably doesn’t taste that great. I’m just saying.
Giada introduces the food editor of Bon Appétit magazine, who tells them they’re going to compete for the cover of the July issue. The name of the issue is “the new way of grilling” and they have 90 minutes to come up with a dish that would appeal to Bon Appétit readers.
As everyone’s scrambling for ingredients to create their grilled dish, Tommy walks over to the table and starts picking up Fred-Flintstone-size steaks. Big surprise. Colombe says she’s thinking of some kind of lettuce wrap with skirt steak. Paul is doing a Rain Man impression and is pretty much talking gibberish here as he tries to get a handle of his ingredients, especially after tanking the on-camera challenge. Poor Paul, he was my favorite to win but now he looks like he’s going to self-destruct. At least that makes for good TV.
Rory is making her famous ribs that she typically cooks for five hours. But she’s making it in 90 minutes. You know, really all she did was rub the ribs with some kind of dry rub and then placed them in the oven. I wonder what she did for the remaining 70 minutes?
OK, that Salmon guy is throwing herbs into the grill to create a smoke. He thinks he’s being originally, but really all he’s doing is providing kindling.
Giada asks Nikki how she can cook in heels. Nikki’s all like, “girl, I always cook in heels.” And Giada’s all finger-snapping back, “I believe in comfort and I’m wearing my flip-flops.” Nikki says she’s making jerk chicken with some crazy Jamaican accent. I think it’s a requirement that whenever you make jerk chicken you have to speak in a weird Ziggy Marley accent.
JAG is working on his dish and he suddenly goes into “Top Chef” mode and starts cooking a wild mushroom, Marsala, balsamic reduction glaze. He’s going to be sooo disappointed when Tom Colicchio fails to show up to judge his dish.
Time runs out and everyone packs up their food to go to the offices of Bon Appétit.
Commercials. How much do we love the Hilton Hotels travel commercials? I love the music with the guy singing. Who’s the singer? Anyone know? Hey, that’s a commercial for “Top Chef: Miami.” Geesh, Food Network will whore its ad space out to anyone, even a competitor.
Back from commercials, everyone arrives at Bon Appétit. They all wait in some boring room while each person goes before a panel one by one. They have 30 minutes to prep their food and then give a short presentation to the judges.
First up, Tommy and his Fred-Flintstone steaks. (I still get a kick at how my spell check recognizes Flintstone!) He walks in and everyone’s salivating over his meat. Those salivating include Mark Thomas, one of the magazine’s photographers (I want his job!); Kristine Kidd, the food editor; Barbara Fairchild, the editor in chief; and the rest of the Food Network judges: Giada, Bob Tuschman and Susie Fogelson. Tommy grilled a rib eye with brown sugar, which he says gives a sweet flavor. Brown sugar makes things sweet. Got it. I learn so much from these contestants.
After he leaves, the judges say his plate looked like a big brown nothing, and he’s trying too hard to show off his personality.
Second is Mike Salmon who is apparently the grill master. Must be all those years grilling for Macy’s demos because his chicken has the perfect diamond grill marks. He talks to the panel about his “herb-smoked infusion.” I am shocked at how these food editors are so impressed by burning herbs.
Amy brings in her chicken piard, which she explains are chicken breasts pounded flat. It’s a French technique, of course. But the judges can’t find the chicken because Amy buried it under a big fruit salad. The photographer said it looked like a farmer’s market exploded on her plate.
Adrien is stressing about his personality. So what do you do to demonstrate you’re personable? You use the phrase “what’s up?” Which is what Adrien does as he enters the room. He says he wanted to do a vegetarian dish because everyone always grills meat, so he made a stuffed bellpepper. It looks like it’s stuffed with a lot of grain because everything’s so brown, but he explains that it’s actually roasted corn and a whole lot of different hot peppers. This is his Motown Spicy Bellpepper. He’s confident enough to ask how it tastes, which was his first mistake. The judges all agree that it’s spicy. It’s not a good sign when all the judges say the same thing while writing on the piece of paper in front of you.
Colombe is feeling the pressure, especially since she doesn’t have any woodland creatures to help her. The hustling during the prep period has thrown her off, and she’s not quite prepared when she comes in because it takes her several tries just to introduce herself and her dish. Then she makes the mistake of calling her steak “flank steak” when it was “skirt steak.” Basically, she had problems with the English language. Giada is the first to point out that she misidentified the part of the cow. Colombe should have stuck with a vegetarian dish. (I have to say at this point that Giada is a bit catty. Sure, she’s all movie-star pretty in front of the camera, but she can change her demeanor with just a snap of the finger. And her criticism isn’t always buffered with positive feedback. I mean, later during the elimination round she tells Adrien that his bellpepper dish looked like someone ate it and then spit it out. OK, I have to admit I had the same thought, but I wouldn’t have put it in those words.)
Next up, JAG. He made a spicy grilled rack of lamb with caramelized salsa. It’s very beautifully plated. Too beautiful to eat? JAG keeps talking about his dish but he doesn’t think to serve the judges. Minor point. But all the judges feel like the dish is too complicated and like something from a restaurant menu.
Then the underdog, Rory, comes in with her baby back ribs. She’s serving it with grilled cantaloupe and a fresh parsley salad. Never heard of a parsley salad, and one of the judge felt it was like eating grass. Rory is definitely personable and funny. She walked off stage right when she should have gone stage left. So the camera showed her walking back with her plate. Oh, calamity Jane. You’re so cute.
In comes Nikki who’s speaking slowly and looks so serious, I was worried she was going to say something scary. July. Is For. Jamaican McCrazy jerk chicken, mon. A few giggles from the judges. She tells the judges that she used brown sugar for sweetness and a lot of different, bold spices. She says jerk chicken shows that she’s a little spicy but sweet at the same time. Bob Tuschman agrees about Nikki’s description of herself. But one of the other judges says the jerk chicken was more sweet than spicy. Another judge thought she was low energy. I know. You’d think with all the sugar she’d be more peppy.
Finally, Paul does his presentation. He made Colorado lamb chops with a citrus marinade, and he decorated the chops with those fancy French paper booties that Paul says represents fireworks exploding. Oh my, he just stopped to take a deep breath in front of the panel. There’s another one. He’s telling himself to breathe in and out, like this is some kind of Lamaze demonstration. The judges look afraid, like Paul’s going to hyperventilate in front of them. Paul knows he didn’t do well. As they go to commercials, he’s near tears over all the stress of screwing up.
Back from commercials, everyone’s waiting for the judges to call them. Paul is crying in the back and says he doesn’t want to go home. (I’d be crying too if I were caught in such unflattering camera light as well.)
They all gather downstairs with the judges and the Bon Appétit editor, who says she wanted the “wow” factor. She says she liked the presentation of Michael’s dish of grilled chicken. Again, they mention the amazing technique of burning herbs. Please. Kill. Me. Now.
They also like Rory’s ribs and liked the grilled cantaloupe. The editor names this dish as the winning recipe (really? Wow?). Rory almost bursts into tears. Everyone seems really happy for her because I think everyone really did feel she was the underdog. Bob Tuschman says last week she was “calamity Jane” and this week she’s the “comeback queen.” Bob’s not that great with original nicknames. (BTW, I’m starting to get why I’m not a big fan of the judging duo of Bob and Susie. Bob’s too calm and Susie always looks disinterested. I can’t believe she’s in marketing.)
Since both Rory and Michael were named the favorite dishes by Bon Appétit, they’re the first two who are deemed safe and go on to the next round.
Bob says the elimination is getting tougher, and tougher, and tougher. Um, this is only the second week, Bob, so it’s only getting tougher and tougher. Then Bob, Susie, and Giada take turns critiquing each contestant and it went something like this: Paul, he had too much energy like a Jack Russell Terrier and made the judges nervous; Adrien is warm and charming on TV but his food doesn’t taste or look good; Tommy doesn’t talk on TV which doesn’t help in a one-man show; Amy is a great storyteller but doesn’t follow directions (Giada dings her for not showing any grill marks, which I think is a minor point. Can you imagine if you were cut off a show because of grill marks? I bet Amy wanted to show Giada some grill marks); JAG is too complex and his recipe had 14 words in the title, which apparently are one too many words for the readers of Bon Appétit; Nikki’s jerk chicken had no spice or heat and she’s too “rehearsed” (that’s the kind word for it, I think “the walking dead” is a better description); and Colombe lacks authority and Giada calls her out on hiding behind the girly smile.
Then they name who will be going on to the next round: JAG, Amy, Tommy and Paul (who is sooo thankful). Colombe is also safe, leaving only Adrien and Nikki. (Hey, I thought Adrien did much better this week than last. Is he really in the bottom two?) Bob says that Adrien moves on, which means they have to say “good night” to Nikki. This show has got to have a better sign off. I mean, I’m not a big fan of “pack your knives and go” but at least it’s more original than “good night.”
Nikki says in her exit interview that she’s a fighter and she’s going to keep pursuing her dream. She’s probably also going to demand a refund from Toastmasters. The gang gives her a big applause as she leaves. Then everyone turns to congratulate Rory who’s going to be on the cover of Bon Appétit with her innovative barbeque baby back ribs. Yes, baby back ribs. Who would have thought to barbeque ribs? Oh wait, half of America does it every summer. Anywho, she’s nice about it so I guess it’s OK.
Next on TNFNS: Guy Fieri, last year’s winner, is the guest judge and he announces that two of them will be going home. (Geesh, do I really need to watch? Guy, just tell me who wins already.) And the contestants feel the pressure as Tommy calls home and cries, Amy gets into a fight, and Paul has what sounds like a health issue with his dish. If he gives someone food poisoning, I’m tuning in! (Oh, what am I saying? You know I’ll be watching either way to do these recaps. All you people who were watching the series finale of “The Sopranos” instead can thank me later for not giving away the ending. Or was that really an ending?)
Tomorrow: Check back to see what I would have done for the Bon Appétit challenge.
The Next Food Network Star airs on the Food Network at 9 p.m. Sunday and repeats at the same time Thursday. Photos courtesy of the Food Network Web site.
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Sunday, June 10, 2007
Summer at the Markets
Summer is just around the corner (officially it's here next week Thursday) and I'm starting to see a lot of summer vegetables and fruits at the markets. At the Temescal Farmers Market this morning, I saw two farmers selling these interesting looking squash. They call it "sunburst." Supposedly, they're really sweet. I just think they're cute.
And also at the market was broccoli rabe. I just thought it was interesting to see it because my friend David kept talking about it in his posts about eating in Italy. Broccoli rabe is like a weed in Italy, found all along the countryside, according to David. It's definitely a strong, leafy green. I also get broccoli rabe confused with broccotini, which I think actually looks more like a broccoli. But now I know how broccoli rabe looks like.
Coming Up This Week
Come back this week for many more food posts by me, including:
1) Continued recap of "The Next Food Network Star" (episode 2 will be posted Monday night).
2) It's getting hot, so time for ice cream. Read about my visit to Ici Ice Cream shop in Berkeley.
3) Dish on Dining this week will be a review of Two, the new restaurant on Hawthorne Lane in San Francisco.
4) And more recipes, including fresh summer grilled salmon with mango salsa and my adventures cooking a poussin.
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Labels: Food Shopping
Travel: One Day of the Best Italian Food
This is the final report from my friend David’s trip to Italy. Listening to all his descriptions about the food there, I feel like going to North Beach in San Francisco this weekend and sitting outside with a cup of cappuccino. Problem is, North Beach isn’t exactly Rome (or Roma as the locals call it) and I don’t drink cappuccino. Oh well, again, I have to just live vicariously through David’s culinary adventure. Thanks for the posts David and giving us a weekend escape to Italy!
Don’t get me wrong. I loved, loved, LOVED the food my wife and I tried during our two-week vacation in Italy. But since we’ve returned I’ve imagined the perfect Italian meals made up of the best food from our entire trip.
Breakfast
Hands down, our best breakfast was at Ayres, a local bar/café a few blocks from our Rome accommodations near Villa Borghese. Breakfast in Italy is usually just cappuccino and a sweet breakfast roll. My wife, Ann (above), claims the cappuccino here was better than almost anywhere in the states (I loved the espresso). Our breakfast roll of choice was a roll topped with chocolate icing and filled with a chocolate pudding (almost like the kind in those Hostess pies you’d eat as a kid). What I wouldn’t do for one right now!
Lunch
Lunch is generally the biggest meal of the day in Italy. It’s usually eaten after 1:30 or 2 p.m. The best lunch item I tried was also at the aforementioned Ayres Café – a cold salad of risotto rice, smoked salmon, olive oil and fresh mint. In fact, this may have been the single best thing I ate in Italy. The salad was perfect on a hot day with lots of flavor from the salmon and the fresh mint. I also liked the café’s fried calamari, which was tender but not greasy. 
My ideal lunch would also include the “stracchino rucola e pachino” pizza at Rome’s La Limonai, a great lunch spot in a restored lemon warehouse on an estate once owned by Mussolini. The pizza had a thin, crunchy crust topped with fresh arugula, tomatoes and stracchino—a creamy, mild cow’s milk cheese. Stracchino is usually eaten as a dessert cheese, but was an inspired choice for the pizza.
Afternoon snack
Hey, I had to throw in another meal somewhere. Pizza to-go counters are everywhere in Rome. My favorite was the pizza topped with tuna fish and tomato sauce at delizie di pizza in Rome. You order at the counter and the pizza is cut into square strips and weighed. It’s cheap and delicious. [[My favorite pizza by the slice in Rome is the artichoke hearts. They were piled on and dee-lish!—ben]]
Dinner
Dinner in Italy can be a smaller meal than lunch, but there are no rules. It’s usually eaten after 9 p.m. I’ve separated my favorite dishes into the traditional categories you’d find on an Italian menu:
Antipasti (appetizers)
My two favorites were the caprese salad and the baked ricotta. We ate the caprese salad at Pulalli Wine Bar on the island of Capri. Many Americans are familiar with caprese salad (Roma tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh basil, olive oil and a sprinkling of oregano), but did you know that it originated on Capri? The salad here was so good because the ingredients tasted as if they had just been picked from a garden. The tomatoes were sweet and had a crunch and weren’t soft and mealy. 
We had the baked ricotta at a restaurant called La Fossa del Grano in the small southern Italian town of San Severo. The baked ricotta, made entirely of ricotta cheese, had the consistency of an airy, rich soufflé.
Primo (usually pastas)
I have to admit that of all the food we tried in Italy, the pastas weren’t my favorites. Still, there was one that easily was tops: the linguini in clam sauce at Il Giardino Romano in Rome’s Jewish Ghetto. The pasta, of course, was al dente (cooked “to the bite”) and the sauce was flavored with clams, white wine and olive oil. It’s a simple and hearty dish.
Secondi (entrees)
We tended to eat mostly antipasti and pastas rather than meats on our trip. Still, the veal steak and veal meatballs served at the home of my brother-in-law’s parents in San Severo were truly memorable. The veal steak was seasoned just right, the meatballs were flavorful but not greasy and the sides of broccoli rabe and fresh mozzarella capped the perfect secondi.
Dolce (dessert)
We didn’t eat a lot of desserts after dinner, mostly because we had already filled up on gelato in the afternoon. [[MMM, love gelato! Doesn't everyone?—ben]] For the record, my favorite was the pistachio gelato at Gelateria dei Gracchi in Rome (amazingly, I forgot to take pictures!). In lieu of choosing a favorite dolce, we loved the after-dinner liqueurs at La Fossa del Grano. The waiter brought us two bottles, one a liqueur made of lemons (limoncello) and the other made of bay leaf. The liqueurs have a somewhat thick syrupy consistency and are meant for sipping. Just be careful how much you drink or you’ll be stumbling home.
— David
P.S. Thanks Ben for letting me share my Italian food experiences!
Photos courtesy of David Kligman. All rights reserved.
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Single Guy Ben
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Saturday, June 09, 2007
Travel Dish: Discovering the `Drunken Grape’
This is the second of three reports from my friend David’s gastronomical escapades in Italy. Today he discovers an Italian wine bar (which is actually perfect for solo travelers because it’s very casual and you might meet a local or two at the counter).
Before we arrived in Italy for our two-week vacation, my wife and I vowed not to go to one of those touristy restaurants. Yes, we were tourists. But why travel thousands of miles somewhere just to eat mediocre, overpriced food?
So we prepped. While killing time at LAX looking at magazines during our journey we spotted an article in the latest issue of Condé Nast Traveler, their annual restaurant “Hot List.” We scribbled down the name of one of the three choices for Rome: L’Acino Brillo.
To say L’Acino Brillo is far from the touristy areas of Rome is an understatement. We traveled by tram, underground train and by foot to find this tiny restaurant in a piazza in the very local Garbatella neighborhood. We got a bit lost, but when we asked two women for help they not only gave us directions but walked with us about five blocks to make sure we could find our way (my wife’s Italian definitely came in handy!).
When we finally saw the restaurant, it was like we had discovered an elusive pot of gold. L’Acino Brillo (“The drunken grape”) is actually a modest little wine bar. We navigated the menu, written only in Italian, of course. These were the highlights of our meal:
** Potato and asparagus-filled pasta
** A nouveau shrimp cocktail topped with a fava bean puree
** Seared salmon encrusted in sesame seeds with a side of perfectly cooked green beans
** A dessert tart and cookie sampler that was so ungodly large we only ate half
In terms of the food, we liked the dessert the best. I can’t say the cuisine was the tastiest of our Italian trip, but I admire what the restaurant does considering its tiny staff (only two on the night we were there).
But I digress. Our adventure was only just beginning. Our dinner lasted nearly three hours (common for European meals) and like Cinderella we rushed to the subway station to make the last train at midnight only to discover we were too late! Not able to get a cab anywhere, we trekked two miles to the nearest cab stand. We were never so grateful to step into a taxi.
We were exhausted, but this was one culinary adventure we won’t soon forget.
— David
The bread basket
The restaurant’s two-person staff.
The wines were from every Italian region.
Seafood cocktail
Potato and asparagus-filled pasta
Seared tuna
Dessert sampling
Next: Our culinary highlights in Italy.
Photos courtesy of David Kligman. All rights reserved.
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Single Guy Ben
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Friday, June 08, 2007
Travel: Family Dinner in Southern Italy
I love to travel, but don’t have the budget to do more than one trip a year. (And that was to Saigon in January, which seems so long ago now. Sigh.) So recently I’ve been living vicariously through my friend David, who traveled to Italy to visit his wife's newborn niece. I asked him to write up some of his food observations because 1) I love Italy and Italian cooking and 2) I know it’ll be a few years before I visit Italy again because my list of countries I still haven’t visited keeps getting longer. (Next year: Brazil?)
The following is the first of three posts from David. He starts with an intimate, traditional family dinner. I love how families in foreign countries typically invite visitors into their homes and throw these simple but festive dinners showcasing food from the land. When relatives come to the United States, why do we always end up taking them to a restaurant? Hmmm, something to ponder. Maybe you’ll find some insight in David’s post:
My wife, Ann, and I recently visited Italy for two weeks to visit Ann’s sister, husband and their newborn daughter, Zoe. Aside from family, of course the other highlight was the food (no surprise, right? This is a food blog!).
One of the biggest treats was visiting my brother-in-law’s family in the small southern Italian town of San Severo in the Foggia province. Our first night there the family (six members that night) prepared a simple but delicious dinner for their American guests.
Since this was Italy, we didn’t eat until about 9:30 p.m. You get used to eating late. Besides, the bigger meal of the day is lunch, so the evening meal is generally simpler and not as heavy.
As you’ll see in the photos below, the food is fresh and simple. Recipes are very uncomplicated—lots of fruits and vegetables. In fact, dessert is usually a pear or an apple followed by an aperitif.
The meal was served family style. Everybody digs in and you take as much or as little as you want. Our main course was veal, prepared two ways. The first was a veal steak, pounded thin, and lightly seasoned with salt and pepper. My favorite, though, were my sister-in-law’s veal meatballs. The meatballs were flavorful and were a great accompaniment to the side of rapini, also known as broccoli rabe. If you haven’t tried it, rapini – essentially nutty, bitter leaves with small broccoli buds – are a big staple in southern Italy. You can find rapini in the United States, but usually at places like Whole Foods and other high-end grocery stores. [[I see broccoli rabe and broccotini at my Safeway—ben]] That’s interesting considering that in Italy the greens are so popular because they’re cheap and plentiful.
I was also impressed with the fresh balls of mozzarella, which were creamy but weren’t stringy and didn’t have that briny flavor sometimes found in U.S.-made mozzarella.
Also served was fresh Italian country bread cut from a bread wheel that was the size of a donut tire. Perfect for dipping in our host’s homemade olive oil.
Following the main course was an arugula and chicory salad. In Italy and other parts of Europe, salad is usually eaten after the main course. Finally, we were treated to homemade liqueurs, one from lemons and the other made from walnuts.
As they say in Italy, “Delicioso!”
— David
Salim’s veal meatballs
This is my sister-in-law’s recipe. There are no exact measurements. It’s really a recipe intended to be made using a little bit of this and a little bit of that. Experiment to see what works best for you.
Ground veal (Italians also sometimes use beef or lamb)
Spoonful of oil (olive, of course!)
Fresh mint
Bread crumbs to bind
Egg (usually just one; the mixture shouldn’t be runny)
Grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients. Lightly roll the meatballs in flour and sauté in olive oil until meatballs are firm and cooked thoroughly. Drain on paper towels.
Scenes from dinner:
Fresh rapini, ready for boiling
My plate
Salvatore, our host
My brother-in-law, Lele, slices bread
After-dinner aperitifs
Home video of our dinner
Next: Discovering Rome’s “Drunken Grape.”
Photos and video courtesy of David Kligman. All rights reserved.
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Single Guy Ben
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Wednesday, June 06, 2007
Dish on Dining: Range
Good food well within range
842 Valencia St. (between 19th and 20th Streets), San Francisco
Mission District
PH: 415.282.8283
Open daily, 5:30 to 10 p.m. (until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday)
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
http://www.rangesf.com/
When did restaurants start taking Sundays off instead of Mondays? During a recent hunt for Sunday dinner in the Mission district, several new places I wanted to try were closed. That’s when I was drawn to the warm glow of Range.
Range isn’t that new, having opened in 2005 by the husband-and-wife team of Phil and Cameron West. (He from the kitchen of Bacar and she from the front of Delfina.) But it was new to me and my tired feet.
I was warmly greeted by the front-of-the-house staff, who gladly seated me at a bar table since I was dining alone. The service was friendly from beginning to end, including my waiter, other servers and a brief visit by Cameron West herself (see, some restaurateurs do work on Sundays). You feel welcomed in the décor that’s contemporary and very California. (I was, however, perplexed by the name of the place. I didn’t really see any stove-top ranges but there were a few nostalgic pieces decorating the walls such as a “watch repair” sign and a huge refrigerator at the center of the bar that looks like it used to be a blood bank.)
Range’s menu isn’t very extensive, but it highlights what’s fresh and in season. If nothing else, Range introduced me to the wonders of the aprium. Never heard of it? Neither did I.
The aprium is another one of those hybrid fruits. And it’s supposedly a plum and apricot, but leaning more toward the apricot side. It was featured in my starter salad of shaved fennel and goat cheese tossed in a light lemon vinaigrette. The aprium slices, which reminded me of persimmons, added a nice sweetness to contrast with the vinaigrette. This was all complemented by the crunch of the fennel.
Most of the main entrée offerings on the menu focused on fish. But that damn Anthony Bourdain’s tip of not eating fish on the weekends (I know, it shouldn’t apply to San Francisco where everything’s fresh) kept ringing in my head so I ordered the leg of lamb with fava beans. The lamb is cooked at medium per the kitchen’s directions, and that was fine by me. They were cut like medallions and sat on a bed of green mush, which consisted of bits of fava beans and lemon parsley sauce. I’m a big fan of lamb but the lamb here was a bit overpowered by the bacon-flavored sauce underneath. Overall, the dish was satisfying but not tantalizing like the salad.
Side note: I ordered a glass of the 2003 Chianti Classico with my lamb and it was a nice, smooth wine that didn’t overpower my meal.
Range apparently gets a lot of attention for its dessert, and I was impressed by its diversity. I usually tell my friends when I’m eating out with them that I don’t order dessert unless it’s something not typically found on the menu. That means I don’t typically order chocolate cakes, apple pies, ice cream trios or crème brulee (although I really do love crème brulee) because these are common dessert selections often featured at restaurants. At Range, there were a lot of different creations to choose from, including a tart that featured apriums (it really must be in season), cornmeal crepes, a strawberry shortcake with Meyer lemon ice cream, and a soufflé. I ordered the “crimson baby nectarine ice cream puffs.”
The puffs were not as flakey as I imagined, but the ice cream filling was fresh and subtle in flavor—not too sweet and not too tart—with just a few bits of nectarines. The puffs were served with a few fresh raspberries.
Range ends your meal with hand-made truffles. Classy touch and again really accentuates the service-aspect of this establishment.
I may have been influenced by the fact that I was totally hungry by the time I found Range, but it did get more crowded after I arrive. So others have also apparently made this restaurant a regular spot among the many choices in this neighborhood that has launched many well-known eateries. The food is amusingly interesting at reasonable prices and the staff is comfortably friendly. You definitely feel like your home on the Range.
Single guy rating: 3 stars (perfect for foodies looking for a friendly environment)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner![]()
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Single Guy Ben
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Labels: Review

