My sister gave me a cookbook for Christmas called "What Hawaii Likes to Eat." It listed all the standard dishes we ate growing up in the islands, from the traditional like kalua pig to the offbeat like spam musubi. But as I was flipping through the pages and going down memory lane, there was one recipe that I had never heard of or seen, and apparently it’s one of the new classics that only became popular in Hawaii in the last few years (after I already got off the rock, you might say).
That dish is Cornflake Chicken. It apparently was made popular by the people behind Side Street Inn, which is a popular diner spot in Honolulu. What I liked about the concept of Cornflake Chicken is that you make chicken that looks like fried chicken but isn’t! And you know how I avoid deep-fried food so I was excited about making this recipe.
Since I’ve gotten this cookbook, I’ve made this dish twice! It’s really simple to make (like most Hawaii foods are) and I love the taste. My only gripe is that the cornflakes don’t really stick to the chicken very well, so it can be a mess eating. (But that’s a sure sign something’s good when you don’t care how you look eating it, right?)
Below I’ve reprinted the recipe from the book in case you want to try it. For those of you who are in the anti-mayonnaise camp (I know who you are!), you can substitute it with mustard or something else to help the cornflakes adhere to the chicken. The key, in my opinion, is not to skimp on the parmesan cheese because I think the saltiness of the cheese is what makes the chicken so ono-licious! Enjoy!
Cornflake Chicken
(excerpted from "What Hawaii Likes to Eat")
Yields 4 servings
Ingredients
8 chicken thighs (about 3 pounds), skin removed
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup mayonnaise
4 cups cornflakes, crushed
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Sprinkle chicken on both sides with salt, pepper and cheese. Coat with mayonnaise, then roll in cornflakes. Bake for 45 minutes, until juices run clear.
Tips from Chef Ben: Like I said, the above recipe was easy to make, but I did some variations. You can just use six chicken thighs, which I found was the common number used by grocery stores. Get the ones with bone still in so you have something to hold onto, but definitely lose the skin.
Also, I coated the chicken with mayonnaise before adding the cheese because I didn't think the cheese would stick to the chicken without the mayonnaise first. Be generous with the cheese, you may need more than the recipe calls for. You might also smear on the mayonnaise with your hands because it can get clumpy.
Place the chicken in a roasting pan. If possible, place them on a rack so that it'll have air circulating around it. It did take about 45 minutes to cook (thighs take longer to cook) but you can also use an instant read thermometer and cook until 140 degrees internally.
Saturday, January 31, 2009
Dinner of Champions: Cornflake Chicken
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Thursday, January 29, 2009
Top Chef: Season 5, Episode 10
No Illegal Passing; No One Scores
Previously: Leah and Hosea are sitting on a tree, K-I-S-S-I-N-G. Elsewhere, it’s restaurant wars and the freezer’s not working, all the life force gets sucked out of one team, and the judges get all huffy and leave. Also leaving? Radhika.
Opening shots of more product placement of Glad storage bags. What exactly are these cheftestants eating all the time that they need so many storage bags? Geesh. Carla Top talks about dodging a bullet and how she is a classically trained chef but once she got on the show something happened. Blame it on the universe, girl. Leah talks about mixing alcohol and kissing, but now she just wants to “cook good food.” I like how she aims high.
Quickfire challenge. The remaining seven cheftestants enter the Top Chef kitchen and some of them look a bit puzzled about who’s this week’s guest judge standing next to Padma. We find out he’s Scott Conant, an Italian chef whose new New York restaurant Scarpetta got a three-star review from the New York Times, which apparently is a big deal. All we get from Chef Conant is a “hey guys” as he stands there like a linebacker listening to Padma talk about the challenge, which is, you guessed it, related to the Super Bowl.
Padma makes each cheftestant come up and write their names on a chalkboard. The column on the left lists a category like vegetables or meats, but it’s hidden right now. On the top row is supposedly a secret ingredient, also hidden. Picking the right square apparently will determine what odd combo you might get. And while this concept sounds intriguing in the “what weird combination do they have to cook next,” this is really just a poor, sad mind game on the producers part to build suspense to camouflage the fact that what comes next is just one stupid big fuck of a product placement.
Welcome to the Quaker Oats quickfire. Every secret ingredient is painfully revealed to be oats, Quaker Oats to be more specific.
EU Fabio quote for the segment: “Dere es no reason to eat vegetables when dere es meat and fish around.”
The cheftestants scramble to make something out of oaks. Carla Top gets the “nuts and grains” category and I just think that so apropro because she’s so nutty.
BTW, I’m changing Fabio’s nickname from EU Fabio to Monkey Ass Fabio because he uses that phrase a lot in the last two episodes. Anywho, Monkey Ass gets vegetables (as the quote above alludes to) and he gets these strips of eggplants and encrusts them with oats. They look like tall towers of cereal. Jamie does her usual dissing of the dish, saying it’s way too much oats.
Jeff the Hair is pounding away at chicken, and we know that probably means a paillard (um, pounded chicken). Carla Top says Jeff “can’t quiet the creative monkeys.” What’s with the monkey references with these guys? It’s like they all went to the zoo during a school field trip when they were kids and they all fell in love with the monkeys, except me because I was in the group of kids who was standing there wondering why monkeys would throw their own poop around.
The tasting:
Stefan (I forgot his category) makes a banana mouse with oatmeal and oat-almond petit fours. They look pretty and small, and I don’t get the rose for a garnish, but Padma gives the rose to Chef Conant.
Monkey Ass Fabio (category: vegetables) makes his eggplant dish. Chef Conant says something weird about the dish and jokes with Fabio, who later says to himself “don’t make-a fun of my food, eh?”
Carla Top (category: nuts and grains) makes some kind of pecan thing. Gosh, I need to pay better attention during these recaps.
Jamie (category: fruits) cooked up three mini dishes, including a coconut shrimp, and salsa of nectarines and avocado.
Big Ho Hosea (category: meat) makes a weiner schnitzel. You know, Chef Conant doesn’t really say much so far; he’s very polite.
Lazy Leah (category: seafood) did something with mussels and fish. It looks generic.
Jeff the Hair (category: poultry) makes fried chicken paillard with grits and fried zucchini. Even Jeff calls his dish “a little crazy.”
In the end, Chef Conant says he didn’t like Lazy Leah’s fish that was overcooked, Monkey Ass’s vegetables that tasted mostly of oats, and Jeff’s plate of brown junk.
He did like Carla Top, Jamie and EU Stefan, who ultimately is named the winner of the challenge. But no immunity for him since they’re getting close to the end. (Finally!) What’s weird is Stefan looks kind of shocked by his win, or maybe he’s just pretending because he won so many and doesn’t want a backlash from the rest of the gang. Did he just say “whoopsy”? Big Ho is busy measuring Stefan’s head.
For their elimination challenge, Padma says they have a surprise for them in the stew room. When the cheftestants head back, they find new chef’s coats hanging with their names and the No. 5 on the back. Lazy Leah is all like, “oh, what’s the 5 for?” And Big Ho tells her that, duh, it’s for Top Chef Season 5, and in his head he’s going “I kissed this girl? What a mistake.”
When they return to the kitchen, Padma says they’re going to take part in the first ever “Top Chef Bowl.” (How many producers do you think had to sit around to come up with that nifty name?) Then she introduces their competitors, and out crashing through a paper sign (just like at the beginning of a football game, but without the cheerleaders) are cheftestants from seasons’ past. That’s right, it’s a Top Chef All-Star team, although I wouldn’t necessarily call some of these cheftestants “all-stars.” They include: Spike (still wearing his hat), my fave Andrew (“I have a culinary boner”), Josie (“it’s pronounced fuh not pho”), Andrea (the vegetarian), Camille (huh? Which season is she from?), Nikki (the pasta queen) and Miguel (“You’re a snake. Hissss.”)
Commercials. You know, for a Super Bowl episode, you’d think the commercials would be good tonight but they’re so boring and repetitive, I’m going to skip them in this recap. For your amusement, though, you should check out the E*Trade baby commercials because I love them and I can’t wait to see what they do during the Super Bowl.
So the teams of Top Chef 5 vs. The All-Stars will go head to head and each will cook a regional dish inspired by football teams like the Miami Dolphins and San Francisco 49ers. Since Stefan won the quickfire, he not only gets to pick the football team for his inspiration, but he gets to choose who he’ll challenge. Stefan picks the Dallas Cowboys and he’ll cook against Andrea, who got eliminated early in her season. I don’t really remember but everyone thinks Stefan’s a shoo-in to win.
The rest huddle up to determine who will cook for which football team theme, and it all falls where you think it would except Monkey Ass Fabio, who probably wanted some Italian soccer team. Instead, he gets the Green Bay Packers.
The cheftestants look over the ingredients that came with their football team theme, and Jamie of course is doing the San Francisco 49ers, since she’s from the Bay Area. But she looks a bit confused about what to make. The cheftestants from Season 5 do some smack talk with the All-Stars, like Andrew who says something about peeing (the rest was all bleeped out) and Miguel who says they’re the grandfather of Top Chef. OK, they have to work on their trash talk.
There’s this little clip during the commercial break of Spike and Andrew playing, and then Spike calling Fabio “Fabian,” which is priceless only because it sparks a really genuine smile from Fabio, who really does have a nice smile. Spike says Top Chef should have just ended with Season 4 because they were so good. Spike, there will be just as many Top Chefs as there are Jeff Probst and Survivors, you can count on that.
The next morning, everyone’s waking up and feeling a bit nervous. Carla is sitting there meditating and clueless Stefan goes, “what are you doing? Meditating?” Um, yeah. If people are meditating, Stefan, that means they don’t want to be talking. What a tool.
Fabio quote of the segment: “I’m 30 years old and I have to sleep in the bunky bed.”
They head off to the Institute of Culinary Education in Manhattan and get prepped for their cook off with the All-Stars. In the kitchen set, what looks like a bunch of students are cheering in the audience, along with the previously kicked off cheftestants so far this season.
Padma (wearing a referees’ outfit) and the judges arrive and she explains the scoring: the judges will choose the winner for each round, awarding 7 points (touchdown) to the winner, then five fans in the audience get to taste the food and vote, and whoever they choose gets 3 points (field goal for extra points). Why is Padma talking in such a low voice? Is she trying to sound butch?
First off are Nikki and Lazy Leah for the New York Giants. Leah does a seared strip steak with cream corn and snap peas (boring) and Nikki does sautéed chicken livers with onions, goat cheese and arugula (that doesn’t sound very New York like). Padma, Chef Conant and Tom Colicchio go for Leah while Toby Young is the lone vote for Nikki (they like their chicken livers in Britain). Then only two of the five fans vote for Leah, giving the extra points to Nikki. Score: Season 5: 7; All-Stars: 3
Next is Miguel vs. Big Ho doing Seattle Seahawks. Miguel does a sweet-and-sour onion with cedar plank salmon. Hosea says that’s too much going on, and he jokes that he wants Miguel to like him so it won’t hurt so bad when he wins. (Really, guys, you really have to work on your trash talk.) Big Ho is making a deep-fried salmon roll with ginger-blackberry sauce. Padma, Toby and Chef Conant go for Big Ho’s salmon roll while Colicchio picks Miguel. Four of the five fans vote for Big Ho, giving him a slamdunk. Score: Season 5: 17; All-Stars: 3
In the back, everyone’s playing with the live crawfish in the back. I love crawfish, but they really do give so little meat and I’m not into the sucking of the guts. But enough about dinner.
My fave Andrew goes up against Carla Top with the New Orleans Saints. (Gotta love that Drew Brees.) Andrew is making a crawfish crudo, and he gives a little primer for crudo (raw fish) and says the crawfish may still be alive when they eat it. Carla Top says football games are great to watch with the family eating spicy food, so she’s making a crawfish and andouille sausage gumbo with grits. All four judges go with Carla Top’s gumbo (Tom says Andrew’s crudo was too sweet) but only one fan vote for the gumbo. Score: Season 5: 24; All-Stars: 6
Next are Andrea and Stefan, who kisses her before they start and I think he has a crush on her because he’s always blushing. They have the Dallas Cowboys and Stefan is making a duo of salads with pork and cole slaw while Andrea is making a Tex-Mex chili, which she says is “spicy like how I like my men.” Stefan is totally going to be looking Andrea up when they return to Los Angeles. Padma and Toby vote for Andrea, but Chefs Conant and Colicchio choose Stefan. So it’s a tie, which means it goes to the fans and all five votes for Andrea. Score: Season 5: 24; All-Stars: 16
Back in the kitchen, everyone’s shocked that Stefan lost, and he’s swearing a lot but in some ways I almost feel like he purposely took a dive so that he can get on Andrea’s good side.
Camille (really, who is she?) vs. Jamie and the San Francisco 49ers. Jamie is making a quick-and-easy cioppino, but mostly with crab instead of a mix of seafood. Camille is making a sweet potato and miso mash with crab meat with butter and mustard sauce. Jamie puts in another diss at the combination of flavors in Camille’s plans. Padma and Toby go with Jamie, and Chef Conant and Colicchio go with Camille. So it’s another split. They go to the fans and all five choose Jamie, so she gets all 10 points. Score: Season 5: 34; All-Stars: 16.
Josie goes head to head with Jeff the Hair, who starts a huge fire in his pot doing Miami Dolphins (and amazingly not burning his hair). He’s burning some rum for a ceviche, which is also what Josie is doing too, although she’s doing a warm ceviche. They use rock shrimp for their ceviche, and Jeff adds a scoop of sangria sorbet (I bet he’d put sorbet on his oatmeal if he could). Padma goes with Jeff but the remaining three judges side with Josie. (Tom liked Jeff’s sorbet but felt Josie’s flavors were more Miami-like.) Jeff is shocked. Three of the fans vote for Josie so she gets all 10 points, which give new life to the All-Stars. Score: Season 5: 34; All-Stars: 26
Monkey Ass puts on his Green Bay helmet and heads out for the competition. I’m just surprised he was able to fit in it. Fabio goes against Spike for the Green Bay Packers. Fabio is making venison with a salad with cheddar cheese. Spike makes a five-spice venison with a port wine reduction. He finishes before Monkey Ass and asks if he needs help.
Fabio quote of the segment: “If your food is big as your mout, you’ll win for sure.”
Toby goes with Fabio because Spike’s sauce was too sweet, but the other three go with Spike. Four fans vote for Monkey Ass, however. Final score: Season 5: 37; All-Stars: 33 (wow, pretty close game after all)
Back in the stew room, Lazy Leah is still talking about how surprised she is that Stefan lost to Andrea. Padma comes in and asks for Big Ho, Carla Top, Lazy Leah and Jamie. BTW, what is up with the headbands the girls are wearing, especially Jamie? This isn’t Xanadu, OK?
Everyone walks to the judges’ table with huge smiles and the judges talk about how good the food was and it’s all very irrelevant to me. But I do think guest judge Chef Conant has a crush on Jamie because he went on and on about how he loved watching how she cooked and how she develops her dishes and yada yada yada. I guess since Stefan is now crushing on Andrea, they needed to find someone else to crush on Jamie. What part of the word “lesbian” do these guys don’t get?
Despite his Jamie Love, Chef Conant chooses Carla Top as the surprise winner for her gumbo. She wins two tickets to this Sunday’s Super Bowl (I wonder if they’ll show her in the stands?) and she’s all crazy jumpy and happy, of course.
Jeff the Hair, Monkey Ass and Stefan go in to face the judges. Fabio says he knew his venison was overcook, but then he goes into how it was pink when he sliced it but as it rested on the hot cabbage, that cooked it more. But you can tell the judges weren’t buying any of that, especially guest judge Chef Conant who for some reason gets his testosterones in a twit and gets into this tense exchange with Monkey Ass. In my mind, it went something like this:
Chef Conant: “It doesn’t matter what you intended to do. If it sucks at the end, I won’t eat it.”
Monkey Ass: “I cook Italian. You cook Italian. You can understand; the meat rested too much.”
Chef Conant: “Un momento, Fabio. Take it easy. I’m the judge, relax. You fucked up. Your dish was a failure. It’s all your fault.”
Monkey Ass: “Your mama.”
Then they spend some time talking about Stefan’s uninspiring steak and Jeff the Hair’s unflavorful dish. Tom calls Jeff’s dish a “watered down version of ceviche.”
When the three leave, the judges deliberate more with Tom acknowledging that the three cheftestants had been among the strongest up to that point. Toby was being a bit sympathetic with Monkey Ass, saying how Fabio could not relate with Green Bay. Tom didn’t like Jeff the Hair’s ceviche, and then the clincher was when he said Jeff had cooked the shrimp beforehand and even though it was served cold vs. Josie’s hot ceviche, he can’t really call it ceviche if the shrimp was cooked and the other judges nod in agreement. I can see who’s booking a ticket to Miami right now.
When the three return, I guessed right and Padma sends Jeff the Hair packin’. What’s unusual is how these eliminated cheftestants sometimes ask permission to shake the judges’ hands, like they’re royalty and can’t be approached within 6 feet. But that’s what Jeff does and they say OK, come past the velvet rope, and he shakes the judges hands, and the judges do seem sincerely sad to see him go and a couple of them say “I’ll see you in Miami.” Hey, is there a pool party that I didn’t get invited to?
Jeff the Hair feels pretty beat up and disappointed with himself. But I have to observe that his low-key persona has been around for much of the season, and I’ve wondered before whether his heart was really in the game because he always seemed a bit exhausted or dejected. Definitely tired sounding. As he leaves, he says this is a life disappointment that will last at least a decade. Wow, that’s disappointment with a sentence. At least he’s having a good hair day.
Next: The noted Eric Ripert shows up with fresh water eel (YUM!) and Carla Top is shaking, everyone dresses up for dinner, and something goes very wrong (because I hear that weird thumping sound and because Tom says that out loud).
“Top Chef: New York” airs every Wednesday at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV’s Web site.
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Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Dish on Dining: Aunt Mary’s Café
Homey Brunch Spot with a Nawlins Twist
4307 Telegraph Ave. (near 43rd St.), Oakland
Temescal neighborhood
PH: 510.601.9227
Open Tues.–Fri., 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; Sat.–Sun., 8 a.m.–3 p.m.
www.auntmaryscafe.com
The number of new eateries opening in Oakland’s Temescal neighborhood is stretching farther out along Telegraph Avenue with new hot spots like Aunt Mary’s Café.
Opened a month before Thanksgiving last year, this spacious and cutesy restaurant (next door to a Korean restaurant) has turned into a popular brunch spot on the weekends. The crowds can get pretty heavy as people wait for a seat at the many tables in the big dining area or along the counter facing the line cooks in the back.
I visited Aunt Mary’s after Thanksgiving and was excited about its eclectic menu that is a cross between fresh, seasonal ingredients meet New Orleans with a few sprinkling of Asian comfort food for good measure. It all translated to a fun, unique experience.
Of course, that was also the time that my tiny digital camera decided to break down, causing me to loose all the photos I took of the red flannel hash (yes, this was where I ate this dish for the first time) and the beautifully plated dishes my friends ordered, including an enticing Hangtown Fritatta and a towering Pain Perdue (kind of like French toast on steroids).
I’ve been meaning to go back to give Aunt Mary’s its proper review (with photos), so this past weekend I took my nephew from Chicago, who was in town visiting his girlfriend. The three of us arrived and ended up waiting for 20 minutes for a table. There wasn’t a big crowd waiting, but it just took awhile to get the right configuration for a table of three. The staff, however, was gracious and apologetic, offering up coffee while we waited in the kid-friendly front area.
When we were seated, we looked over the menu. I noticed a few New Orleans-influenced dishes still on the menu, including the Hangtown frittata and po-boys sandwich (both dishes are made up of fried oysters). My nephew went with another Southern classic, the Biscuits with Gravy and
Sausage ($6) and his girlfriend ordered La Strata ($11) served with a beet salad. I went with a special, the Champagne Seafood Gumbo ($12.50).
Both my nephew and his girlfriend’s dishes demonstrated the excellence of Aunt Mary’s as a place for baked goods. Just like the Pain Perdue I had on my first visit, the biscuits and the huge La Strata were airy and tasty. Their dishes were also beautifully plated, showing the sophisticated level of the preparations beyond your typical brunch fare.
My seafood gumbo was also very beautiful when it arrived at the table, and I couldn’t wait to dig in. But despite having fresh ingredients in good-size bites, the gumbo seemed to need more seasoning. It wasn’t bland, but it just needed that extra pinch of salt to take it to a more satisfying level. The gumbo was served over either couscous or polenta, I wasn’t really sure.
Because my gumbo didn’t really fill me up, I ordered the special dessert of the day, which was a Chocolate Berry Parfait ($5). This totally made up for the less-than-satisfying gumbo because the dessert was sooo delicious. Again, Aunt Mary’s is perfect for baked goods as the light cake layers tasted great with the layers of strawberries and custard blending with the cream and chocolate. It was a classic strawberry shortcake, but with fresh, quality ingredients.
Side note: Aunt Mary’s is so popular that the cooks behind the counter really looked like they were juggling a lot of orders. In fact, it took nearly 25 minutes for us to get our orders from the time we placed it with our friendly waitress. I saw other tables who came after us getting their orders before our table. It didn’t bother me, though, because I was busy catching up with my nephew and his friend, but on another day by myself I might make more of a note on the wait.
Still, Aunt Mary’s has been warmly welcomed into the neighborhood and offers a fun spot for brunch. With a friendly staff and spacious environment, you don’t have to go into the city to find a fresh spot for brunch or lunch. It’s right here in Oakland.
Single guy rating: 3.25 stars (Baking some brunch)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

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Monday, January 26, 2009
Make Way for the Ox
Today is the first day of the Lunar New Year, which ushers in the year of the Ox. I thought I'd post a picture of oxtail soup, and then I realized that, yeah, I don't usually eat that. So instead, to get into the new year festivities, I went to the Flower Fair at San Francisco's Chinatown this past weekend.
A few blocks are closed down in Chinatown and people swarm the streets, shopping for flowers. In the new year, it's good luck to have blooming flowers in your home. The sign of blossoming represents prosperity (the Chinese will look for any reason for good fortune) as well as the approaching spring. Red, orange and green are popular colors because red is an auspicious color, orange resembles gold and green is associated with dinero.
The traditional Chinese new year cake is called nien gou. It's not your regular cake made of flour but instead it's made with sticky rice flour. This creates a pudding-like cake that's sweetened with brown sugar and sticky when eaten fresh. At this stand, they were selling a variety of flavors, including coconut. My mom used to make these really huge ones that we'd carve out and eat for days.
I spotted this truck selling lots of citrus, which is again representative of prosperity and spring. They had it bunched up that you can hang as wall ornaments.
This is the pomelo, or a really huge grapefruit. It's another popular fruit for the new year, again because the gold color looks like money. My mom liked this fruit so much that she made us take baths with the leaves from the pomelo tree so that we'd be all cleansed for the new year.
Hope you're all having a big celebration for the new year! Here's to continued prosperity and good food in the coming year!
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Sunday, January 25, 2009
The Price of Labor and Love for Dulce de Leche Chocolates
So my friend April has got me hooked on making my own chocolate candies after I spent a Saturday making holiday chocolates with her last month. A few weeks ago, I was staring at a canister of dulce de leche I bought on my trip to Buenos Aires and wondered what to make with the milk caramel, and that’s when I decided to make dulce de leche-filled chocolate candy.
The process of making the chocolates is pretty simple, but like I realized when I was making the holiday candies with April, it’s tedious work. Making these dulce de leche-filled chocolates were even more tedious, and now I understand why artisan chocolates are so expensive. Those poor chocolatiers have to do a lot of work just to squeeze out those few morsels of chocolate gems, so of course they’re going to charge a lot just to make up for their hard work!
Below is a photo essay of the simple but arduous steps in making the chocolates. Maybe it might inspire you to make your own chocolate creations!
I started off by creating chocolate “shells” that I would fill with the dulce de leche. I used semi-sweet chocolate from E. Guittard, the family-owned chocolate makers that started in San Francisco and is now based in Burlingame. Their chocolates are very rich and not super sweet, which is more my tastes. To create the shells, I used candy molds I bought at Sur La Table and melted the chocolate in the fancy process called “tempering.”
I’m still not really clear about all the reasons for tempering, but that’s what all the chocolate people do, so I figure why break with tradition? First you melt the chocolate until it’s above 100 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Most traditionalists would say melt the chocolate in a double boiler, but April simply melts it in the microwave, and I even saw the Barefoot Contessa do that too, so that’s what I did. I threw about half a pound of chocolate in a bowl, and zapped it in the microwave on high for about 2 minutes. If you want them to melt faster, chop your chocolate chips into smaller pieces.
After your chocolate is melted, you then have to wait for it to drop to about the mid-90s. To do this, you can stir your chocolate to get some air in it to help the cooling process. When your instant-read thermometer gets in the neighborhood of the mid-90s, throw in a few pieces of chocolate. This is called “seeding.” April explained that this helps remind the chocolate what it should be like when solid. It also helps reduce the heat of your chocolate because you want it to reach about 86 degrees so you can start playing with it, either dipping things in it like truffles or strawberries, or in my case, pouring them into the molds to create shells.
So once my bowl of chocolate reached 86 degrees (you might need to fish out any of the “seeding” chocolates that didn’t fully melt), I carefully spooned a little into each chocolate mold, then used the side of the spoon to push the chocolate up the edges to make sure I had a complete shell with all sides. If there were too much chocolate in one hole, I’d just tip the whole mold by the side to let them drip out. Then I waited until the chocolate hardened. (A nice thing about making chocolates in the winter is that chocolate sets up nicely in cold temperatures. So my chocolate shells were ready in minutes. Note: Chocolate is not easy to make in humid or rainy weather. Cold or air-conditioned environments are best.)
Then I ever-so-carefully spooned my dulce de leche in each of my chocolate shell. (BTW, the dulce de leche was soooo good I could have just eaten it out of the jar, but I know that would have been so bad for me.)
Once I filled my shells with the dulce de leche (I had two molds and each mold created a dozen chocolate pieces), it was time to seal it by adding the final layer of chocolate. So I tempered another batch of chocolates (not that much since it was just for a thin bottom layer) and spooned a bit on top of the dulce de leche, making sure I had enough to seal in the caramel.
To make sure I had a nice even bottom, I used the back of a knife and just scraped it across the bottom of the mold. It makes everything look messy, but it also looks like some abstract painting, don’t you think? Then I just let the chocolate harden up, which again, didn’t take that long in the cold weather. (If you want it to set up faster, you could place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes.)
I loved my new molds from Sur La Table because all I had to do was just pop my chocolates out. They didn’t stick or anything. I used a knife to clean up the edges of the chocolate so it’ll look more presentable and then, voila!, I was all done.
I made 24 pieces and it really felt like a lot of work. Not all of them turned out perfectly because some didn’t have a good seal on the bottom or a part of the shell was too thin, so I could see little bits of caramel oozing out. Those were the ones I HAD to eat right away. ;P
I tried to take a picture of the caramel-filled inside, but it was hard to cut or bite into the chocolate piece without the shell crumbling into little pieces. I guess the shell was too thin, but I liked the thin shell for eating purposes. But you get the idea; it was just this chocolate piece of creamy goodness. Yum.
Now, I could give you some of these, but I would probably charge you $8 for each ONE because of the time and labor involved. But they were all made with love.
Early Bird Chocolate Salon Registration
Speaking of chocolates, the Third Annual San Francisco International Chocolate Salon at Fort Mason takes place on March 21, 2009. This is a popular event that I’ve gone for the last two years and it draws crazy crowds of people moshing for a sample of the chocolates. (Vendors pass out free samples of their chocolates, which I guess is covered by the admission cost, and some offer discounts to boxes sold that day.)
I’m letting you guys all know that I’m going to sit out this year’s Chocolate Salon, taking a break from the crowds. So if you want to check it out for yourself, they’re doing early bird registration right now, and you have to register before Jan. 31 to get the $17.50 ticket (compared to regular price of $20). Click here for more info.
My advice is to go early and bring a small packed lunch to avoid getting overdosed by chocolates. And please don’t be one of those people who horde chocolates by bringing Tupperware and grabbing chocolates for later. That’s so uncool. Just go to enjoy the experience of trying different chocolates and please take time to chat with the chocolatiers and thank them for doing the show. I hope to read people’s posts about this year’s salon since I won’t be there!
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Saturday, January 24, 2009
Mini Dish: La Baguette
Warm Your Tummy with a Toasted Creation
170 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto
Near Stanford University
PH: 650.321.0535
Lunch, 7 days a week
www.labaguettestanford.com
PALO ALTO
Always get it warm. Always get it warm.
That’s my advice whenever the woman behind the counter at La Baguette French Bakery asks whether you want your sandwich order warmed or not. Because when it comes to you fresh and heated, it’s heaven.
I generally don’t blog about shopping mall food, because you get your typical fast food or food court fare. But a few weeks ago when I was at Stanford University for an event, I made a stop first at the nearby Stanford Shopping Center for a bite at La Baguette Boulangerie and Patisserie. And I can’t stop thinking about their toasted sandwiches.
Stanford Shopping Center, ironically, does not have a food court so your eating options are limited to some casual spots and a few fancy restaurants that are a bit much to spend for lunch.
La Baguette has a prime spot at the heart of the mall, so it’s often crowded as people line up for either their baguettes and sandwiches or a beautifully decorated French creation from its patisserie.
For lunch, they have the typical baguettes with ham and cheese and such, but I always go for the special sandwiches. They’re typically more expensive (about $7-plus), but worth it. And again, get it warmed.
A couple of months ago (when I wasn’t snapping pictures), I got the Florentine, which is grilled chicken with roasted tomatoes, fresh Mozzarella and pesto on a warmed Ciabatta bread. Once I bit into it, I was mesmerized by the tender chicken and gooey cheese, blending nicely with the tomatoes and pesto sauce. And the bread was so perfectly baked and fresh that it reinforced why I’m such a fan of panini and any grilled or toasted sandwich.
In my most recent visit, I ordered the Tuscan, which is also grilled chicken but with roasted tomatoes, fresh Mozzarella and a balsamic vinaigrette on a panini roll. The bread was perfect as usual, but I have to say the sandwich lacked color with only the red of the tomatoes and the darkness of the balsamic vinegar. It really needed some greens. Still, it was nice and comforting with the warmed bread (although I’d say the Florentine is my favorite).
Because of the lines, some people have complained about the sometimes snarky service from the ladies behind the counter (who did look kind of suspiciously at me as I snapped away at the patisserie). But I didn’t have any issues with the service as they promptly took my order. And it only took a few minutes to warm up my sandwich and have me out the door.
La Baguette is a tiny shop, so there’s no seating inside but you can grab your sandwich and eat at any of the outdoor tables. I didn’t try the pastries or desserts, but they were plentiful and all looked very enticing. It definitely looked like a place where you could find a special treat to take to a party or when visiting friends, or when you feel like treating yourself to something special.
Since this is a mini review, there’s no rating. Some people might be turned off by the slightly high prices, but this is Palo Alto, people. I definitely recommend any of their specialty sandwiches, especially the Florentine, as long as you get them toasted!


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Thursday, January 22, 2009
Top Chef: Season 5, Episode 9
“Keep the Love in the Kitchen; Send Out Good Desserts”
Previously: The cheftestants head out to the farm, and Ariane butchers a lamb, and not in a good way. For that, she and her butcher’s knife are sent packin’.
We’re at the half-way point, and I don’t realize that just on my own as I look at myself and think how did I condemn my Wednesday nights to late hours of recapping for a season that feels more like a Tuesday in a very long work week when it should really be TGIF. I get confirmation because several cheftestants are talking about being at the half-way point as they wake and prepare for their day. There are eight left, and Carla Top says they’re all good so now it’s just psychological warfare, which I really didn’t know what that meant until I listened to her comments near the end of the show and understood. Yes, you need a psychologist to understand what she’s saying.
Quickfire challenge. Padma greets the cheftestants with Stephen Starr, a New York restaurateur behind such popular spots like Morimoto and Buddakan. I don’t know the guy, nor have I been on the A-list to go to any of his restaurants. But all I can say is the guy needs to wipe his glasses. What’s up with the foggy lens? So if you haven’t guessed (and missed the 1001 promos by Bravo), this is the restaurant wars episode. You can tell all the cheftestants are excited (well, except Jamie, of course).
Padma says part of the process of opening a restaurant is doing a tasting for potential investors. So they have to come up with a tasting dish for Starr and the dish needs to reflect what would be their concept for their new restaurant. Starr will pick two winners, and each of the winners will be the chef/owner of the two teams.
Fabio quote for the segment (he has some real winners this episode): “Dees is going to be a hot, bloody, nasty war. En love and war, you’re allowed to do EN-NEE-thing.”
They rush off to the refrigerator to grab their protein, and already you hear someone asking for the scallops. What? This is Top Chef, not Top Scallop, people! Stefan is swearing up a storm, as usual, and Fabio is having difficulties for some reason opening up the refrigerator door.
Everyone’s cooking and talking about their concept. Lazy Leah (that’s my new nickname for her after she didn’t do shit in the last episode) grabs a red snapper and I’m pretty sure her exactly quote is “it smells like ass.” Can you say “ass” on cable? I wouldn’t put it past her. But, you know, I know what she means. I’ve had some red snappers that can really smell fishy faster than other fish. Did it smell like ass? I can’t say.
Jamie, yawn, is doing seasonal, local, sustainable dishes for her restaurant concept. And while I love that type of food, it’s all over the place here in the Bay Area. People grab some weeds from their garden, plop it on a salad and call it sustainable cooking. Then Jamie tell us that she doesn’t want to win the challenge because she doesn’t want to be team leader because she’s opened a restaurant and it took forever so she can’t imagine having to open one in 24 hours. What a winning attitude, Jamie.
Tasting:
Carla Top is pushing home-made, rustic food aka “new American.” Huh? She makes a cod seared in tomato oil with Italian salsa and a green salad. Starr says it needs more salt.
Big Ho Hosea (also my new nickname for him after what happens later in the episode) is going for a seafood restaurant with Mediterranean flavors aka “world cuisine.” He makes shrimp with a morel mushroom cream sauce, and I think cream sauce sounds heavy for a Mediterranean-style restaurant.
Lazy Leah is going for an Asian-inspired concept since her mom is from the Philippines (I didn’t know that). She makes a poussin with dashi broth. Starr says it’s tasty. When they leave, Lazy Leah whispers to Big Ho Hosea that Starr didn’t like it but Big Ho tells her to relax and that she did all right. Then she gives him a big ol bear hug.
EU Stefan is doing a Euro-American concept because he says, condescendingly, that there are some redeeming factors about the culinary scene in America. He makes a trio of asparagus with trout, asparagus salad and asparagus soup. (BTW, if I don’t note what Starr says, then he probably said “very good,” which seems to be his judgment for everyone.)
Jeff the Hair makes salmon grilled with sun choke puree and grilled corn. I forgot what his restaurant concept is. Starr says it was a little mushy. (At least he didn’t call it “old people’s food.”)
Radhika’s restaurant would be a global influenced one with tastes from India and the Middle East. She made a pan-seared cod with braised corn, spinach and chorizo. Starr says it was well seasoned.
Jamie does her seasonal cooking spiel and cooks up Chilean sea bass with creamed corn, bacon and peas. Starr says he appreciates the simplicity of the dish, which really means “I could have made this at home and throw a sprig of parsley for garnish and you’re set to charge $26 a plate.”
EU Fabio talks about his concept for a restaurant specializing in lunch. And I’m not sure if that means his restaurant would only be open for lunch, or if he plans to sell lunch-type food at night? Anywho, he made a “complete” lunch meal consisting of swordfish and tuna carpaccio, salad and a French baguette sandwich, which Starr calls a cheese steak. That, of course, offends Fabio who thinks his sandwich is a filet mignon sandwich and not just a cheese steak. I guess it all depends on whether you say it with an accent.
Starr says he’s not investing in the restaurants of Jeff the Hair or Fabio. But he really liked Radhika, who he says has her finger on the pulse of what’s hot today with her global cuisine, and Lazy Leah, who he says had clean, forward-thinking food.
Commercials. Hey, Michelob, I really doubt I would look that hot and run from my office cubicle to the gym after drinking one of your beers.
Radhika and Lazy Leah pick their teams, and it’s all very schoolyard like as Radhika goes with Jamie first and Leah picks, surprise, the Big Ho. Then it’s Jeff the Hair and Carla Top for Radhika and Fabio for Leah. EU Stefan is last and I’m starting to think nobody wants to play with him. So Leah gets him by default. (You know, Stefan says he doesn’t care, but you know a part of him is probably hurt just an eensy, tiny bit.)
They break into their teams and start planning. Radhika’s team come up with the name Sahana, which we learn is sanskrit for “I’m not very creative so I’m going to make up a word and make it sound like Savannah.” Just kidding. According to Radhika, it’s supposed to mean strength and power.
On Team Lazy Leah, everyone’s harping on Big Ho and Lazy’s sexual tension, even though the two keep declaring “I have a boyfriend,” “I have a girlfriend” like there’s no tomorrow. Fabio volunteers for the front of the house, saying he mostly cooks Italian and doesn’t do much Asian. Eh, probably better since it’s best to front an Asian restaurant with a man with an Italian accent.
They shop at Pier 1, which is actually really good for the restaurant themes. I notice this year Top Chef isn’t offering any “professional designer” help in starting the restaurant. The cheftestants really have to do it all. EU Stefan shows he’s seen Top Chef restaurant wars before as he goes around getting “unscented” candles.
Back at the apartment the teams are planning their menus and Stefan continues to assert his ideas while Big Ho is sending him evil mental thoughts on behalf of Leah. Lazy Leah is too lazy to do anything about Stefan and just walks away at one point.
Big Ho and Lazy whisper about Stefan, who is naturally on the balcony smoking, and then that sets up their bond for what happens next.
I assume it’s later that evening because there’s no one else around and the camera shoots Big Ho laying on a chaise lounge with Lazy Leah on top as they snuggle and talk about how they want to go to sleep but are too lazy to get up and go to their beds. The editors get excited like this is a scene from “The Real World” except without all the swearing and the drinking, and they turn up the sexy mood music and I hear kissing. And then we learn that when you’re making out, your language skills are the first to go as we get a captioned quote from Leah saying: “I like, want to sleep right here.”
Commercials. Slumdog Millionaire. I didn’t want to buy into the hype, but I LOVE this movie. I predict it’ll win the Oscar for Best Movie. That’s right, you heard it here first. (I’m not just a pretty food blogger; I’m also a movie critic. LOL)
It’s the next morning and there’s that uncomfortable tension in the air of like when you sleep with someone and then you have to decide if you should talk it out or just pretend someone just conveniently “fell” into the bed. And while I’m pretty sure Big Ho and Lazy didn’t sleep together, they are awkward to the Nth power because they did kiss and thus crossed the lines of flirty friends to dirty little sneaks.
Big Ho interviews that “I have a girlfriend” and he regrets kissing Leah, while Leah interviews that “I have a boyfriend, but probably not when I get home.” Stefan and Fabio don’t know what to do because they’re mad that their bromance hasn’t been getting as much air time this episode compared to Big Ho and Lazy. So they go and do their food shopping.
What I don’t understand is the teams break into pairs of two and one pair goes to Whole Foods and one goes to the Restaurant Depot. Both places sell food, albeit one at a more lower discount. So I’m wondering why didn’t they just buy all their food at Restaurant Depot? It’s never really explained, and the only mini drama is Jamie not finding lamb shanks but Jeff the Hair being industrious and going to the freezer and finding a box by himself.
In the car, Stefan and Big Ho talk about the restaurant and Stefan suggests the name “Sunset Lounge” and they both scream like it’s the Best. Name. Ever. While I think it’s more an indication of their careers going down like the sun.
The cheftestants arrive at New York’s Bridgewater Restaurant and they have six hours to open their restaurants on the top floor. They start prepping their food and Radhika and Fabio work on setting up the look of their respective dining room.
In the kitchen, Lazy Leah is feeling stressed and then her pieces of fish have too many bones. And she can’t just pull them out with a tweezer. So she decides to slice down the middle and just cut out the bone. Just like how she wants to cut out her tongue for kissing Big Ho and just wishing that scene never happened. Except this isn’t the Taliban and we don’t do things like that in this country. Well, not since Obama became president.
Carla Top is making dessert—a spiced chocolate cake and frozen yogurt. But the freezer isn’t really working so her yogurt isn’t setting up. Stefan also has the same problem since he’s doing dessert and making a panna cotta. But he gets a tub of ice and sets the panna cotta in there and that seems to work. But you know, he’s Swiss so I’m sure ice runs through his veins. He could have just blown on it and it would have hardened up.
There’s one hour left and Jamie is freaking out and I’m getting bored with her freaking out about cooking. Radhika tastes Carla Top’s chocolate cake and Carla Top wants some direction but Radhika doesn’t have an opinion because it’s not her dish and she doesn’t know how to be a team leader and delegate. So instead, she hides. Jeff the Hair is moving so fast he says he feels “like a humming bird on cocaine.”
But really the best quote comes from Fabio, who walks in dressed in a suit ready to greet guests.
Fabio quote for the segment: “Wee can serve monkeeey ass and empty clam shells and still win.”
The guests start arriving and Radhika and Fabio seem pretty pleasant in greeting them. But of course in the kitchen there’s some confusion among the wait staff and Jamie is bitch bitch bitching about how Radhika needs to take the lead and talk some sense into the waiters. I am getting so tired of Jamie.
The judges arrive first to Sahana, and Radhika brings out some flat bread or naan and I’m really surprised to hear restaurateur Starr sound so surprised at the sight of them. He didn’t really know what they were, and I’m thinking, this guy dined all around the world? Anywho, Padma debates whether she loves the naan because they’re good or because she’s sooo hungry. Which gets me wondering about how far along the judges have to starve themselves before taping. And really, if they are going to really test their interest in food, it probably should be after they’ve eaten regular meals during the day. But this is Hollywood so we know how taping can last hours and you’re just sitting on set waiting. Or at least that’s how I imagine it, having not been invited to a set for filming.
Radhika brings out the first course of curried carrot soup with raita and chickpea cake with seared scallops and masala tomato sauce. I have to say, the curried carrot soup really has an odd, fake-like coloring to it. Tom makes a weird face when he tastes the soup, but he says he likes it, as do most of the other judges.
Next course is a white lentil tabouli with seared snapper and fresh pea shoots and a cinnamon and saffron braised lamb shank. The judges feel the lamb is cooked well but Toby Young says the couscous tastes like dish water. Starr says this odd comment about how he doesn’t like fish sitting in a lot of liquid because that reminds him of where the fish comes from. Which is totally weird because it’s like he’s eating fish and thinking, “oh, how lovely the fish must have been roaming the green, luxurious grassy knolls.” Come on! Fish swim, get over it!
Then they bring out a “hot mess” of desserts from Carla Top and everyone realizes the frozen yogurt is runny, and even Chef Tom asks for a spoon. Toby Young does one of his long-winded metaphors of how the tasting menu and dessert at the end are sort of like Elvis Pressley’s career where it starts off great but ends with a bloated Pressley slumped over in his toilet. I’m not really digging this British judge. I bet his food essays run on like a book that you read in the toilet and then you fall asleep and slump over. What?
Radhika is running around and even one of the waiters is sweet and asks if she’s OK, and of course she says no. Some of the guests comment on how Radhika seems intense and the judges questioned whether she was the best choice to be the front of the house. Grumpy Tom puts on a pissy fit and says that he bets they could leave without getting a goodbye, and Padma encourages him and they all walk up and leave. Radhika, of course, is no where to be seen. I bet she’s making out with that sweet waiter.
The judges hit Sunset Lounge, with the fabulous Fabio pouring out the charm like one continuous string of spaghetti. After seating the judges, he brings out an amuse bouche—a vegetable roll. Chef Tom says he’s had better frozen egg rolls and Starr says it was second-rate. Ouch.
Then comes the courses of two-way sashimi with radish salad and yuzu vinaigrette and a coconut curry bisque. Most of the judges seem to think the soup was OK, although Toby Young called it “too shocking.” And Chef Tom wanted more salt on the sashimi. (Maybe they should have used soy sauce in the vinaigrette instead of just yuzu.)
For the main course, the judges love the braised short ribs that are cooked perfectly, but nobody likes the seared cod from lazy Leah, which is a bit undercooked. Starr says the vegetables under the fish were really pickled too, which made it difficult to eat. Fabio comes over to check on the judges, and they tell him the fish was undercooked. I have to say, Fabio does a great job of offering to bring them out another plate of fish, but the judges decline.
When Fabio reports back to the rest of the team about the fish, Lazy Leah is already packing her knives to go home. Big Ho Hosea says it was like watching all the life force in the team go out the window, except they’re in a high rise and I’m pretty sure all the windows are glued shut.
For desserts, they bring out Stefan’s chocolate rice parfait with grapefruit jelly and pineapple and a lemongrass panna cotta. The judges are really digging the desserts, with grumpy Tom even saying that it’s the best part of the meal from BOTH restaurants. To top it off, Stefan has Fabio bring out a palate cleanser of frozen mango and bitter chocolate on little skewers. They did look really yummy. Fabio cinches the deal by giving the judges a warm send off, unlike Radhika’s hiding in the kitchen.
Who will win Restaurant Wars? We’ll find out …. AFTER the break. (Hey, have you guys been watching Idol? I’m glad the audition phase is showing more talented people but they’re really going heavy with the sob stories in the pimp spot near the end of the hour.)
Commercials. For this week’s mini, nonsensical clip, the cheftestants are in the stew room and Jeff the Hair does this magic trick where he lays out a square of items, in this case a bunch of crumpled up paper balls, and he tells them to touch just one of the balls while he covers his eyes and then he can guess which ball was touched. This is how they entertain themselves while they wait. I’m sure it’s a lot more funny after a few beers.
Back to the real episodes, the cheftestants are talking about how crappy the appliances were at the Bridgewater kitchen when Padma comes in and asks for the Sunset Lounge team.
At the judges’ table, Padma asks Lazy Leah how she thinks things went, and of course she doesn’t say how she was a frickin’ mess because she kissed Big Ho and was racked with guilt and couldn’t deal with the bones in her fish so she undercooked it. Instead she says overall they did ok. Chef Tom informs them that it was a close call but the guest comment cards gave the edge to their restaurant by a “slight margin” thanks to Stefan’s dessert and Fabio’s charm. Even cranky Toby Young says he was won over by Fabio.
Then Tom says Leah’s cod was the worst thing they ate all evening, and if her restaurant was on the losing end, she was sure to go home to her ex-boyfriend. Instead, guest judge Starr names Stefan the winner of the challenge because of his desserts, and Padma says he wins an entire line of GE appliances. Wow, now that’s a win.
Afterwards, Stefan says he can go home happy now even if he’s eliminated because he’s won the Restaurant Wars. I don’t know about you, but I’d rather have the $100,000 prize money. What is up with all the pimping of this restaurant war challenge? Geez, it’s just a make believe restaurant people! My niece can set up a restaurant in one day with her Easy Bake oven too, and I don’t see her strutting her stuff after I pay my bill and tip!
Team Sahana goes in and Carla Top is a wee bit too excited, like she knows she’s going to be eliminated so she’s going to go out even more crazy than crazy does.
Padma asks Radhika what she thinks went wrong, and Radhika says she doesn’t know because she’s the woman of no opinions. The best part, hands down, is the few minutes with Carla Top, who gets all wacky and holds an honest and weird conversation with Tom.
She tells Tom that she was trying to do too many things and that others did ask her if she needed help but they were already “in the weeds” themselves so she tried to tough it out. And then there was this (paraphrased a bit, but you get the gist):
Carla: “I wasn’t happy with how (the desserts) turned out, but I had a good time.”
Tom makes that typical quizzical face that you know if he was a cartoon, it would be like Scooby Doo going, woohuh?
Carla: “I know my dish is going south. So I’m just going to send out some love that I’m giving you. So when you’re out there eating my food that looks like crap, I’ll be in the kitchen sending out the happy vibes so you’ll feel like it’s still good.”
I. LOVE. HER. She is totally cracking me up and I just wish she stays another week just so I can hear more crazy-is-like-crazy-does comments from her during the judges’ table.
After Padma pushes up Tom’s lower jaw that dropped in shocked, he says that they should have just owned up to their problems in the kitchen and call the frozen yogurt, yogurt soup instead. Then he says Radhika’s front of the house service sucked big time and as the chef/owner, she should have made more unilateral decisions about how things were cooked and handled. Tom says Radhika was never really in the game and doesn’t have follow through.
They’re excused while the judges deliberate more. Carla Top thinks it’s her leaving while Radhika says she’ll be going home. The judges say a lot of the comment cards were about Radhika’s poor service. Toby says he typically skips the desserts at an Asian-influenced restaurant and now he remembers why. Starr says he wanted to fire her on the spot, except he’s not the owner of Sahana. He had the most funny quote of the night when he says Carla’s comments totally didn’t make sense about sending out the love. “Keep the love in the kitchen, send out good desserts,” he says.
Commercials. Oh my gaawd. This is another extended Top Chef episode. We’re getting another 15 minutes of agony.
Chef Tom says restaurant war is the most popular and highly touted by Bravo challenge on Top Chef. He says Jamie and Jeff the Hair must feel frustrated that they’re on the sucky team. He says Radhika as chef-owner needs to have her hands on every aspect of the restaurant, and he tells Carla Top that desserts leave a lasting impression of the dinner and she didn’t make a good impression.
He turns to Padma, and she sends Radhika packing. Radhika holds back tears and thanks them for the opportunity. She’s mad that she’s going home because of her front of the restaurant service and not her cooking. Then says the typical exit speech about how her family will be proud she got this far, and that she learned a lot. The only way this episode would be saved now is if they cranked up the Bollywood music and Radhika and her family busts out some dance moves to end this episode. No? Not in the budget? Darn.
Next week: It’s an all-star team of seasons pasts, including my favorite bromance duo—Spike and Andrew. Spike calls Fabio “Fabian” and it’s on! Carla Top says Jamie looks crazed, and I think she looks like she always does.
“Top Chef: New York” airs every Wednesday at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV’s Web site.
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Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Back for Seconds: Kim Huong
This is an occasional report on return visits to restaurants that I’ve already reviewed.
When Gimmicks Trump Authenticity
304 10th St. (at Harrison), Oakland
Chinatown
PH: 510.836.3139
Open daily, 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. (except Tuesdays)
No reservations, credit cards accepted
Original visit: May 2007
When Kim Huong opened nearly two years ago, it drew a big lunchtime crowd of hungry eaters hunkered over their large bowls of pho. This casual Vietnamese spot was spacious and clean, with bright décor and a bar with a flat-screen TV showing Vietnamese pop videos.
But then it closed briefly for some unknown reason, and when it reopened a few weeks later, I had heard that it wasn’t a pho shop anymore. Since pho, the Vietnamese soup noodles, is one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes, I never thought about going back to Kim Huong since pho is no longer the specialty of the house.
Then I heard they were serving bento, which are the Japanese lunch boxes with various compartments to give you a variety of little tastes in a compact lunch. I couldn’t imagine how you could make a Vietnamese bento, so I decided to find out first hand.
When I visited last week, I didn’t have any problems getting a table. The waitress said I could choose any of the empty tables (there were only two tables of customers when I walked in a few minutes before noon, and then a couple of tables came after me). The décor looked pretty much the same, with the flat-screen TV showing some Vietnamese lion dance performance. But the lack of bustling customers gave the room an odd feeling, like visiting your grandmother’s house and hearing nothing but the sound of a distant TV tuned to some ethnic show.
For lunch, Kim Huong has created a section called “power lunch boxes,” which are the bento choices. Most of them cost $7, and you can choose a variety of entrees. Some were the typical Vietnamese-style dishes like lemongrass chicken. But there were also other Asian-influenced staples like curry chicken, mango beef, BBQ pork, Korean short ribs and tofu with eggplants.
I ordered the Grilled Barbeque Chicken bento, which came with steamed jasmine rice, one fresh imperial roll cut in two, a side salad, and fruit (today it was a sliced green apple).
Fresh imperial rolls are the ones that aren’t fried like spring rolls. Instead, moistened rice paper wrappers are used to create a roll, typically of shrimp, vermicelli noodles, pickled vegetables and herbs. The roll that came with my bento had the fresh ingredients, but instead of shrimp it was thin slices of tofu. It was served with a peanut sauce. It was OK, but by using tofu the overall flavor was weakened since tofu is, by nature, pretty bland.
The chicken was primarily the dark meat of thighs cut into thin slices. It tasted like the chicken sat in the marinade too long because it seemed slightly cured and a bit salty. While there were a lot of chicken pieces, it didn’t seem fresh or distinctive enough to make me want to eat more.
The only redeeming factor of the bento box was that the rice was light and fluffy, The side salad was your typical head lettuce with sweet-sour vinaigrette.
So it was clear the bento box was too gimmicky than tasty. They basically could have served all the components on a plate and charge 50 cents less.
This week I returned to give Kim Huong one more try, this time sticking with a more traditional specialty—the bun bo hue. This is a spicy beef noodle soup made with thick, round rice noodles instead of the typical thin, flat pho noodles. I ordered a large bowl for $7.50 (the $6.50 price tag advertised in the window was actually for the medium bowl).
The bowl was definitely large when it arrived, and it had the distinctive red coloring I remember when I first ordered it when Kim Huong initially opened. But it lacked the finesse of my original visit when the bowl seemed to be bursting with ingredients and a flurry of thinly sliced fresh onions on top.
As I dug in and ate my noodles, I would occasionally discover one or two pieces of cooked beef. Floating on the top were just two thinly sliced pieces of pork and two slices of what seemed like a ground pork cake. Near the bottom of the bowl were pieces of the blood cubes that I remembered eating in my first visit.
Even when adding in some jalapenos, bean sprouts and shredded cabbage that came on the side, there was no way of brightening up this bowl. Plus, it didn’t seem that substantial. The bowl was mostly spicy red broth with a regular helping of noodles and just a few pieces of the beef. To me, it was like a medium order of bun bo hue served in a very large bowl.
During this second visit, the dining room was more empty than last week. And I noticed that most of the customers weren’t Vietnamese or Chinese, but mostly business office workers looking for their Asian lunch fix. I figured this must be their target customers because the prices were slightly high for what you get and, again, there’s the odd offering of Japanese bento boxes with Vietnamese food.
It’s too bad that Kim Huong didn’t stick with its original concept of a pho shop. This new version is misguided, confusing and well, boring.
Update experience (previous 2 stars): It’s a downhill rating for this spot, now at 1.5 stars.
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Tuesday, January 20, 2009
A Night of Fancy Food in SOMA
The Winter Fancy Food Show started this Sunday in San Francisco and is supposedly one of the largest specialty food and beverage trade show in the country. But since most of the events occur during the day, I can’t check it out because of my regular day job.
So I was excited when I got an invitation to Food Fête, a sort of mini Fancy Food Show that took place last night. It’s a small gathering of selected food exhibitors without the crush of the crowds of the actual show.
One of the first tables I noticed right away was this one from Sterling Confections of Redwood City. The company used to be known as Sterling Truffle Bar because it primarily makes these colorfully decorated truffle bars, which actually looks like huge truffle logs. The company was taken over last year and was reborn as Sterling Confections.
Pat Rebro is the head chocolatier and has continued some of the traditional recipes for the truffle bars while creating new ones, such as Pineapple Ginger Macadamia Nut. Yep, it has all my favorite flavors. The truffle was creamy and soft with just a hint of the pineapple and ginger flavor and bits of macadamia nut. I told the guys they should promote it as the Obama truffle in honor of President Barack Obama’s inauguration today. The truffle bars are primarily sold online, and they have cute smaller versions in case you don’t want to overkill your friend with a huge log.
I love cheese, but this isn’t ordinary cheese. It’s super cheese. This is a Monterey Jack cheese from Pacific Cheese fortified with Omega-3s, the same fatty acids found in fish like salmon and useful to keep your heart healthy. They actually put fish oil into their cheese products, but no, the cheese didn’t taste fishy at all. It was good and kind of spicy. But you probably have to eat a whole lot of cheese to get the benefits of the Omega-3, and that might not be too good for my cholesterol. The cheese started appearing in stores late last year in Southern California and should be making its way to the Bay Area soon. For now, you can check out its site here.
From super cheese to enhanced nuts. This is something called Snacktrition, which sells a variety of nuts enhanced with all kinds of good stuff. Almonds with calcium? Cashews with extra fiber? It’s all in these little green-and-white packets. They make a great mid-morning or afternoon snack when you don’t have time to fix yourself something (like a grilled cheese sandwich).
OK, so they weren’t just exhibiting foods but there were appetizers circulating the room. But I was so busy taking photos and notes that my hands were busy and I didn’t try any of the food, which included these little snack pouches …
… and these mini hamburgers.
One thing I definitely didn’t pass up on was the Grey Goose vodka bar. (That’s right, I have my priorities right.) I wasn’t the only one. This was definitely the booth with the longest line of people waiting for a special martini.
I ended up getting a Peartini. It’s made with Grey Goose’s new La Poire Flavored Vodka, which uses the flavor of the Anjou pear from France’s Loire River Valley. The drink also includes a splash of Disaronno liqueur, simple syrup and lemon juice. It was soooo yummy. Grey Goose is my go-to premium vodka when making martinis, and I really loved the subtle pear flavored drink.
What was great about Food Fête was getting the chance to talk to the owners of small companies that are trying to launch themselves and make it big. One of them was this Milwaukee company called Cholive (trademarked BTW). Joshua Gentine is the president of the company that he started with another partner last year. What they basically make is this olive-shaped chocolate candy, thus the “Cholive.” Gentine is hoping that bars and restaurants will buy their cholive as a novelty item to pair with special chocolate drinks or with wine (I think dark chocolate goes great with red wine). What’s funny is that when I first heard chocolate and olives, I thought they were chocolate-covered green olives, but they weren’t and that’s probably gross. But you know what, I have a craving for that right now.
Another company less than a year old is one by John-David Enright, who quit his operations job with a major pharmaceutical company to create Ooba, a sparkling drink made from the hibiscus flower. The company is based in Pleasanton/Dublin in the Bay Area, but Enright imports all of his hibiscus from farms in places like China. Being from Hawaii, where the state flower is the hibiscus, I was intrigued by the idea. The drink actually wasn’t as bubbly as I thought it might be and the taste had a deep flavor that reminded me of black currant or berry. It also has other flavors such as Hibiscus Orange and Hibiscus Lime, and I really enjoyed the hint of lime in that version. Enright says the hibiscus flower also has natural healing powers, thus the name: Ooba, which stands for “One of Botany’s Advantages.” I thought the name was so cool. Ooba will be popping up in Whole Foods and other specialty stores or online here. (BTW, Enright spiked his glass of Ooba by going over to the Grey Goose booth and adding some vodka. Now that's the way to put some sparkle.)
While some of the exhibitors were new, some were longstanding brands, such as Niman Ranch, which is known for its quality beef. Last night they were promoting its new line of Niman Ranch Poultry. On the right is a dish made with chicken. It was a drunken chicken dish with a tarragon cream that was created by Chef Hoss Zare of Zare at Fly Trap in San Francisco. The chicken was very tender and had a slight gamey flavor that gave it more depths than your typical white chicken breast. Next to it was a lamb stew using Niman Ranch lamb just to remind people that Niman Ranch is still all about the red meat. Currently, Niman Ranch poultry is only produced by one farmer who follows the strict standards we’ve come to expect from Niman Ranch. That means no hormones, no antibiotics and only vegetarian feeds. I’m sure many of the local restaurants will be serving Niman Ranch roast chicken on their menus soon.
Another well-known brand name is Nielsen-Massey Vanillas, a 100-plus-year-old company from the Chicago area. The company makes the best pure vanilla extract, which I currently have in my pantry. Beth Nielsen is a third-generation family member at the company, and I asked her whether growing up everything smelled like vanilla in the home. She says everything smelled good and that she has a real heightened sense of smell. But she says she never tires of the scent of vanilla, and I don’t blame her. It’s one of my favorite smells.
Look at that big bunch of vanilla beans. You know, that is probably worth $100 right there. One of their new products is that jar of Pure Vanilla Sugar, which I thought they would have created a long time ago. I’m looking forward to using it sprinkled on top of cupcakes or in a nice cup of tea.
It was fun getting a preview of some of the new products that will be appearing in markets in the coming year, and meeting the people behind them. Even in today’s economy, it’s still nice to get fancy with your foods now and then.
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Sunday, January 18, 2009
The Crappy Crabby Season
We’re tailing off the peak of Dungeness crab season here in the Bay Area, and it wasn’t much of a season, according to reports. Very little crab could be found, and we didn’t have an oil spill to blame this time.
But fishing is cyclical, so we’re just at the down side of the crab reproductive cycle. Hopefully in the next few years, we’ll have an abundance of crab.
Fresh crab is one of the easiest things to prepare because you really want to use very minimal ingredients so you can just enjoy the sweet flavor of the crab meat. I got a Dungeness crab awhile ago (not sure if it was local or from the Pacific Northwest), and recalled a recipe I did once when I brought some crabs over to my friend Vera’s home and found out she doesn’t like ginger. (I know, she’s Chinese and doesn’t like ginger! I think we should take her Chinese membership card back! Ha!) So I couldn’t do my typical preparation of crab, which is just a ginger stir-fry. Instead, I put some black bean sauce in the wok and it actually turned out really good. So here’s the recipe below. Enjoy!
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Black Bean Whole Crab
Copyright 2009 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients
1 whole fresh Dungeness crab, uncooked (about 2 lbs.)
1 heaping T of black bean sauce
1 garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup water or broth
1 T cornstarch
2 T canola oil
Chop your live crab into pieces and set aside. (You can check out my demo here on how to chop and clean a live crab.) In hot wok or large skillet, heat oil with garlic on high heat. Add crab pieces and blend in black bean sauce, stir-frying for about 1 or 2 minutes. Add water or broth and cover wok to let your crab cook for another 5 to 7 minutes until the shell turns orange. You might need to add more water if your wok dries out; stir pieces to get those that are not orange yet closer to the bottom heat.
In small bowl, mix cornstarch with 1/4 cup water to create a slurry. Add cornstarch mixture in the wok with the heat on high to create a sauce. Garnish with cilantro and serve immediately.
Makes one to two servings. Serve with steamed jasmine rice.
Pair with glass of Riesling.
TIP: Keep it simple and just buy your black bean sauce in the jar. You can find them in any Asian grocery store or the Asian aisle of your supermarket. The sauce is pretty salty, which is why you don’t need to add more salt to your crab while cooking. It’s often labeled “black bean and garlic sauce.”
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Saturday, January 17, 2009
Feasting on Obama Nation
Tuesday we inaugurate a new president; the 44th to be exact. And I’m especially proud because along with being the first African-American president, Barack Obama is also the first Hawaii-born president.
What’s funny is President-to-be Obama is just two years older than me. So that means that while he was a senior at Punahou High School in Honolulu, I was just starting my sophomore year at McKinley High School. Our schools were town rivals because of our close proximity to each other, and because we were both large schools—Punahou the largest private school, and McKinley the largest public school.
But enough about my fleeting connection to our local boy president. Today I’m blogging about all the food-related things I’ve seen lately as this country gets into Obamania.
Presidential Cupcakes
I love cupcakes but there are people out there who love cupcakes more than me. In fact, they’re so crazy about cupcakes they wear attire with cupcake themes, which can only explain why a company calling themselves Up With Cupcakes can exists. Supposedly they sell t-shirts and other accessories with cupcake designs.
In honor of Obama’s inauguration, the online company has created a special “The Two Hottest Things in America” T-shirt. On the front is the wording about the two hottest things, and on the back you see a cupcake with the Obama campaign logo on top. You can check it out for yourself here.
Liberal Ice Cream
If you want a scoop of ice cream to go with your cupcake T-shirt, then you might try Ben & Jerry’s special January flavor called “Yes Pecan!”—a play on the Obama campaign slogan “Yes, we can!” And don’t think this presidential promotion is all about commerce because the folks at Ben & Jerry’s (is there still a Ben and/or Jerry?) are donating sales from the ice cream to the Common Cause Education Fund. Learn more about the flavor here.
Toasting the New President
Of course there’s bound to be a lot of Obama inaugural parties across the country, and several local restaurants are getting into the game. At the fairly new Pisco Lounge on Market Street (next to Destino), they’ve created a new drink called PiscObama, made with pisco (the Peruvian alcohol that I love in a Pisco Sour), pineapple
(again, because Obama is born and raised in Hawaii), and a bright red cherry liqueur on top (supposedly because red represents the color of the state bird of Illinois—the cardinal—which Obama represented as a U.S. senator). The drink will be sold for $8 throughout January, but will be sold for $5 during the lounge’s new Monday hours and, of course, this coming Tuesday on Inauguration Day.
Pisco Lounge, 1817 Market St. (at Octavia), San Francisco. PH: 415.874.9951
Official Chocolate of the Inaugural Festivities
My sister and her family recently relocated to the Washington, D.C., area from Portland, Ore., and she sent me this Obama presidential inauguration chocolate bar. It looked so official that I didn’t think I could eat it without a security clearance. But I did for this blog, and you, my readers. I have to say it was like any milk chocolate bar. It's made by Astor Chocolates of New York (but made in New Jersey), and even though it's an American company, the chocolate is from Belgium. Oh well, the Europeans love Obama too!
Obama Talks Food
People make a big deal in Hawaii about Obama’s love of the local “plate lunch,” which is the lunch served with two scoops of rice and a scoop of macaroni salad (held together with mayonnaise). The main meat can be a variety of things like teriyaki beef or chicken, pork tonkatsu, beef stew, or kalua pig. I don’t know what Obama prefers, but I bet he’s had them all.
Anywho, I just think it’s interesting to hear Obama talk about food. And taking advantage of the nation’s interest in anything Obama, the Chicago public television station this month aired the pilot episode of “Check Please!” which is the predecessor of the similar show “Check Please! Bay Area” that airs locally on KQED in San Francisco. The creator of “Check Please!” created a pilot to sell his show way back when, and he called on his friend to be one of the three “real people” reviewers. That friend is Barack Obama, then just a state senator in Illinois. He was just as thoughtful and eloquent back then, even when talking about pancakes.
Congratulations to President Obama and the new First Family. I hope they enjoy their stay in Washington, D.C. And I look forward to being invited to a state dinner!
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Thursday, January 15, 2009
Top Chef: Season 5, Episode 8
One Little Piggy Cried All the Way Home
OK, I think I’ve said it before. This season of Top Chef sucks big time. I’m soooo not invested in any of the cheftestants. I don’t think I like any of them, other than Jeff the Hair and only because of the superficial reason that his hair does look really pretty. So it’s been a drag pulling these recaps together. So this week, I decided to invite my inner Fabio to do a guest recap. Take it away, Fabio!
Thank you Chef Benny. I can call you that, no? We are like da brothers even though you’re not from Europe. But your family make-a da noodles, and my family make-a da PAH-sta, so we all the same, eh?
Top Chef is tutti tutti bellissimo. I having a good time. I love New York. New York loves me. It’s beautiful.
You know what else is beautiful? Leah and Hosea. It’s amore every time at the apartment with the two. They’re always the kissy-kissy. But just in the mind.
So today we went to the quickfire and I see-a da Hung from Season Three. And you know, I think the guy is a genius with fish. So when I see Padma standing in front-a da big white-covered box, I knew it would be a big frickin’ ah-QUAR-ium. I’m a ready. In Italia, we love-a da fish. We eat the whole thing.
Oh wait. What da fuck? That’s not da fish. Oh. My. God. It’s all can goods. I don’t even see Bertolli. So Padma tells us to cook a dish in, what (?!), 15 minutes. She’s craaazy. I better grab something because every body is pushing and shoving. I find two cans of artichoke hearts. Ah, bellissimo. What? Stay away you stupid Hosea. No, I need two cans. I cannot give you one. Go away you tall, bald American!
LOL. I see my best-a buddy Stefan over there cutting a can with his knife. What is he doing? He make-a me-a laugh. He can just flip the top with da ring. Maybe they don’t have that kind of can in Sweden, I don’t know. That guy, I love him. We represent the EU. These other guys, they don’t know what they doing.
I see Stefan, he takes da Spam piece from Hosea. I say, go, go just use it. Don’t ask him, just do it. But Hosea say OK anyway, so it’s all good. Everyone likes da Spam.
So Padma and Hung, they go around and try everyone’s dish. I’m happy with mines. I do the artichokes, roast it really nice to give it flavor and warm them up. Then I make this mac and cheese from da blue and yellow box. It’s a-pretty easy, no? In Italy we make this for our kids all the time, but we use the nice cheese. I don’t know this stuff, with the orange color and smell. But it’s easy, so OK. To make special, I add da chili pepper. Hung, he don’t say ANY-thing. Just “spicy.” OK, I take the spicy because I’m a spicy guy.
Hung, da guy no like the dishes by Leah, Jamie and Radhika. I agree because Radhika and Jamie just make-a da toast. Then they just put stuff on top. C’mon! What is that? That’s not bellissimo. But da Hung, he no like mines too. I don’t get it. He choose … oh boy, he choose Stefan. Stefan! You steal another win from me! Awhile ago we were one-one, but now he won some more so I have to get back at him. Da guy is going too far ahead of me. We have to be same-same, no?
So now we have to pull knives, and I’m first and I pull da knife it says-a da “pig.” Then others pick and it says “chicken” or “lamb.” Padma says we have to go back to basics and I don’t know what she says, but she is bellissimo. I can listen to da Padma all day.
Commercials. I like-a da Ricky Gervais. I don’t usually like the London guys, you know, because I don’t understand-a their accents. But they come to Italy all the time. So I like Gervais; he’s going to be-a on da “Inside da Actors Studio.”
We go back to the apartment and I’m talking to Jeff and Radhika. Jeff, he tells me: “No Italian.” And he tells Radhika, “No Indian.” He says keep it simple. I say, Jeff, listen, Italian is simple. We get-a da pasta. We get-a da sauce. Simple, no? But the guy don’t listen.
I want to be on Stefan’s team. But he’s with his girlfriend Jamie. I tell him, Stefan, Jamie likes girls. She’s da lesbian. Stefan, he just likes to get Jamie mad. Stefan and Jamie, they work with Carla, and Carla I don’t think she do anything. She just sits there and she don’t even talk. What is that? I tell you what it’s not. It’s not bellissimo.
I want to go to bed already, these guys, they make-a me tired. But it’s almost midnight and I hear Stefan and Jamie still fighting. The two fighting fighting fighting all the time. Jamie wants to change the menu, and Stefan, he’s not going to listen. You know him, so macho. Just like me. But you know, I treat the ladies nice. They are beautiful. I like da ladies. I like the ladies who like-a da ladies.
Then I go to bed, but we all have to wake up early. The producers tell us get up at 5 a.m. This not good for Fabio. I have to get my rest. I cannot sleep, though. Because Hosea, he’s walking back and forth. I think he’s nervous. I don’t know why because he’s with his amore, Leah, with the lamb team. And they’re working with Ariane, and she cooked the lamb and won the challenge before! They all worry about cooking seasonal. In Italia, we always cook seasonal. Every season. SUM-mer, fall, da spring, WIN-ter. We like da seasons.
So we driving and then we go outside the city. I never been outside New York before. It’s pretty. It reminds me of Tuscany and the countryside in my Italia. But I think to myself, this is no Whole Foods. Jamie, she says she knows where we’re going and it’s a farm by Chef Dan Barber. Blue Hill at da Stone Barns or something. I don’t get it. I don’t see-a da blue hills.
I see Padma and Dan Barber and three farmers. This is good because I like fresh foods. This is going to be fresh because this is coming from da farm. But I look at Jeff and he looks and me and we make-a da eye contact because we know we can’t find all our supplies here. So we have to change da menu. That’s OK. It’s beautiful. It’s going to be fresh.
I’m not vegetarian but I respect the land. This place, you got to respect the food. You’re born-a, and then you raise-a. You kill for a purpose. This is a lifetime process. You got to respect it.
We go to da garden and I see all these beautiful red tomatoes. I think PAH-sta right away. But Jeff, he no let me cook the Italian. Then he starts grabbing the green tomatoes. I know already what he’s gonna make. He’s gonna make the green fried tomatoes. Everybody knows already. That’s not-a original.
Then we see this pig. It’s soooo big. Bellissimo! But da pig, he no like me. He spit at me or something. So crazy.
Commercials. I don’t understand this American family in this Samsung commercial. In Italia, we all get cell phones for years. We give our bambino cell phones. Everybody talk the cell phone. Wait, I get-a da call. Scusi.
We get in da kitchen, it’s beautiful. I love the kitchen. It’s a real professional kitchen. We get all our meat cut for us and lots and lots of produce too. Bellissimo! So I tell Jeff I make-a da ravioli. I put a little bit sausage from the pork. Jeff, he cooks da loin. Radhika, I don’t know this girl, she says she cannot make the bread pudding because no figs. I say, make bread pudding and put something else. You get all beautiful produce to put. Then I say, OK, I make-a da crème brulee. So Radhika make the grilled corn for salad. I don’t know this girl why she take two hours to grill-a 10 corns. Two hours!?
I see da other teams, Stefan’s making roast chicken and cutlet. He still fighting fighting fighting with Jamie. Then they make-a da soup. Carla is making another tart with stone fruit. What? Tart again? Carla, this is called Top Chef, not Top Tart.
Hosea is cooking with Ariane and Leah, the girl just standing there making tomato salad. That’s so easy, we can beat them easily. I think our food will be better. Me, I make my ravioli by hand-a. But I think it got to be better, so I make-a my pesto sauce. Radhika, the girl doesn’t understand Italia. She says pesto sauce, for inside the ravioli? No, I tell her, you pour on top of the ravioli. It’s-a da sauce. Mama mia, Jesus Christ the Pope.
Speaking of da Pope, there comes Chef Tom Collichio. To me, I said before, Tom in the kitchen is like if I da priest and the Pope is there. But he talk to Jeff and Jeff tells him our menu with my ravioli and the pork loin. It’s going to be bellissimo!
When Chef Tom leaves, I see Ariane trying to tie up her lamb. She don’t even know how to tie the lamb. I can do it with one arm tied behind me. So I see Leah helping her do the tying, but that girl’s not any better. I bet the lamb won’t cook good.
We almost ready and Jeff looks at the pork and he says he’s happy, and he asks me if I’m happy. I think, yeah, I’m happy. I’m always happy because you know me, I love life. But I love my ravioli more. I think Jeff cook the pork too much and he shouldn’t have cut off the fat. Why? The fat is the flavor. These American chefs. I don’t understand. But that’s OK. I tell him I’m happy so he won’t be not happy, no?
We bring the plates out to the farmers. I respect the farmers. So I have to make sure they know I made good food to respect them. I want to say, you did good job with growing da food. I respect you. I don’t care about the judges. That Toby Young, he’s vicious. In London, he can make or break you. I hope the sun burns his bald-a head.
I cannot hear what the judges saying, but I think they like-a my dish. They eat it all, not like Stefan’s chicken soup. It’s too hot to eat soup. I don’t know what he thinking. But that’s OK because I love him. He’s my buddy. We’re both representing Europe. If I don’t win, then he should win. This year Top Chef will be from the world!
We bring the dessert and I pass out my crème brulee, it’s beautiful. It’s not too sweet. It’s just right. Carla’s tartlet looks so big. Ariane’s team made a trifle with vanilla cream. I bet she made that for Toby Young.
We get back into our cars and go back to New York City. I’m so tired I sleep in the car next to Jeff. His hair, it smells-a nice.
It’s night time and I want to go to sleep. Buona sera! But we have to go for judging. So we go to the stew room and sit again. For hours! Padma, da bella, she calls Jamie, Carla and Stefan. So I know Stefan is going to win again. I think, no, I still need to win more before Stefan. But I have to wait.
When they come out, Jamie says they all win. I’m so happy for them because then Stefan isn’t really the winner because there’s three winners but really none of them is the winner. This is like a wash, no?
So Jamie says we all have to go in. This is not good because one of us might go home. I miss-a my wife but I don’t want to say ciao yet.
Padma says both our team did poorly, and she talks to our team first. Toby Young asks about cutting the fat, and Jeff says he usually takes off the skin. I don’t agree, and Chef Barber says the same thing. He says no to taking off the skin and that’s the nicest part. That’s what I think. You got to respect the animal. Jeff looks sad. He says if it wasn’t enough, then it wasn’t enough. I no like being on his team because he don’t even try. But at least I like him more than Radhika. This girl, she didn’t even do anything except grill the corn.
Oh, they ask me about my ravioli, so I said I wanted to make my sauce with cherry tomatoes, but there was no cherry tomatoes. So I thought I make-a da light pesto. Chef Dan, he says it was-a heavy hand. I don’t know what he means heavy hand. Toby Young, argh, he says the pesto OVER-whelmed the sausage. I disagree but I don’t say anything already.
Then they talk to Hosea and Ariane and Leah, and they ask them about butchering. I can tell already that they didn’t butcher their lamb good. Ariane is saying something about tenderizing, and I think, tenderizing? That’s a baby lamb. It’s supposed to be tender because it’s a bambino! Chef Dan agrees with me.
They send us away, and we all think it was brutal. I’m worried I might go home, but I think Radhika should go home, or Leah because I don’t think she did anything except make the tomato salad.
We had to sit in the stew room a long time. I just talked to my boy Stefan. I says, Stefan, you know you didn’t really win because all three of you won so really no one won. He tells me to fuck off, and I told him you fuck off. The guy, I love him.
I hear Hosea and Leah talking about amore, I think, but they’re whispering so I cannot tell. But Ariane is talking to Jamie and she says she’s a team player, and Jamie says yeah. And I think, so Ariane is on Jamie’s team now?
Commercials. What is the deal with the bottle water? In Italia, we drink da wine. Fuck Brita.
We go back in, and Chef Tom says it was a nice field trip and he says something about the freshness. I wanted to tell him, and don’t forget the respect, but I didn’t want him to send me home. So I just listen. He says he was disappointed in all the dishes, and I disagree with my dish. He says my pork stuffing was overpowered by the pesto, so I think next time I make a little less pesto. Then he says Jeff’s fried green tomato was the best, and I’m like, are you KIDDING me? But he says the dish saved da team, so I guess I have to thank Jeff for saving us from elimination.
Then I feel bad for the Lamb Team because I know one of them is going to go. So Padma sends Ariane home, and I don’t believe it. I think Leah should go because she no make anything I tasted that is good. It’s always the same. Ariane was the cougar in our group, so I will miss her.
So I’m happy I’m still here. Next week is restaurant war!!! Yes, this is what I want to do. I just wish I’m on a good team. But that’s OK, it’s all beautiful! Ciao!
[[Note to readers: The above is satire and was not really written by the real Fabio. And the above in no way meant to offend any particular ethnic group or men with accents. I love da men with-a accent!]]
“Top Chef: New York” airs every Wednesday at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV’s Web site.
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Wednesday, January 14, 2009
Dish on Dining: Red Door Café (Renamed Brown Couch Cafe)
One-Man Show at this Little Oakland Gem
340 14th St. (at Webster), Oakland
North of Chinatown
PH: 510.452.1664
No reservations, credit cards accepted ($10 minimum)
UPDATE (07/17/09): The place was renamed Brown Couch Cafe
This funky looking café opened last year and it caught my eye for its name and eclectic décor. But I never ate here because once I walked in and saw the prices averaged $7, which I thought was a lot to pay for lunch.
Well, welcome to the new economy.
After a few months—and with rising fuel prices and tough economic times—seems like everyone is raising their prices. So eventually, eating at Red Door Café sounded like a bargain!
I guess your perspective changes when you put it all in context. Now on to my visits!
So the Red Door Café turns out to be another lunch option for me during the work week because it’s half way between my Lake Merritt offices and Oakland’s Chinatown. Like I said earlier, the café has an eclectic décor, with its mix of plush velvet arm chairs and wooden tables. The wall is covered with framed artwork that’s also a mix of vintage photography and paintings.
The café is actually quite small. I think there were maybe five small round tables. It’s really more a lunch spot as opposed to a place to hangout at nights, or even the afternoon.
The music mostly leans toward jazz, but can sometimes break out into Broadway tunes. This is definitely a place with a lot of personality.
It looks like Red Door Cafe is owned and run by one guy because he’s the only one there every time I visited. A young, friendly man, he would take my order and then make it, then serve it up if you’re eating in. It was all very personable like going to a friend’s place for lunch.
The problem with this one-man show (I guess it would only be a problem for those with little time on their hands) is that the wait can be long. Once during the peak of lunch, the guy would tell people coming in that he wouldn’t be able to get to them for 15 minutes. (Most people had a good attitude and said they didn’t mind waiting.)
I noticed that a lot of regulars know the trick of calling ahead and then just coming in to pick up their orders, and most regulars don’t seem to eat in since it’s such a small space.
The menu leans heavily on the wraps, of which there is a large selection of them. You can also get hot or cold sandwiches, salads and smoothies.
On one visit, I ordered the Spicy Cowgirl wrap ($6.75), which is a spicy BBQ chicken wrap with fresh spinach, onions, tomatoes and sauce. It’s served with a small little spinach salad with an Asian dressing.
What I liked about the wrap was how everything was fresh. The wrap itself was warm and toasty, which really made the overall dish seem like something served at a restaurant. The chicken pieces were generous and the spicy BBQ sauce was just as advertised. It was spicy but luckily not 5-alarm spicy. Just the right amount of heat if you like spicy food.
Because I’m a big fan of grilled sandwiches, I ordered from the panini section on my next visit. The panini selection is a bit slim, I feel, with maybe five options, and most were just vegetables and cheese with very little meat options other than the ham and cheese panini or the Alaskan Smoked Salmon ($7.50), which is what I ended up ordering.
The smoked salmon panini was made with lox and cream cheese spotted with capers, tomatoes and onions. I was actually surprised to see that the grilled bread looked like any ordinary bread and not, say, a ciabatta or even sourdough bun. Still, it was perfectly toasted to give it that crispiness without being tough.
The combination of smoked salmon, capers and cream cheese is classic, so I didn’t have any qualms about this sandwich although it wasn’t necessarily innovative.
Red Door Café is the kind of small business that I like to support. It’s in a not-so-glamorous area and the owner is working his butt off to keep his red doors open. While others might be turned off at the small space, limited hours and sometimes long wait, I find it a quaint spot and the food surprisingly tasty for café fare. In this economy, these are the kind of little gems that we all should be supporting.
Single guy rating: 3 stars (Paying for the Personal Touch)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner

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Monday, January 12, 2009
Julienne, Diced or 'Chopped'?
The Food Network seems to be churning out a bunch of new shows lately and surprisingly not one of them stars Bobby Flay.
One of the more interesting shows in the current crop is called “Chopped,” which premieres tomorrow (Tuesday) night at 10 p.m. It’s interesting because 1) it stars one of my favorite guides to food, Ted Allen, and 2) it’s bound to draw comparisons to the highly popular “Top Chef” on BRAVO TV.
I was invited to take part in a call today to interview Allen about his new show. I generally skip these calls because they drag me back to my old days of being a newspaper reporter, but I was anxious to hear what Allen had to say.
Ever-so-charming, Allen was quick to distinguish “Chopped” from all the other cooking competitions out there. Unlike “Top Chef,” the contestants on “Chopped” compete only in that one episode. They make three courses (which includes the dreaded dessert course) in 30 minutes and the winner gets $10,000, which he or she pockets and leaves, never having to come back to defend his or her title.
And unlike “Iron Chef America,” there’s not one secret ingredient but three to five. The chefs competing in the one-hour show have to use all the ingredients in their dishes.
Here are some of the other things Allen had to say about “Chopped” and other things from the world of food:
On the realism of “Chopped”:
“Whatever panic or bloodshed or tears, it’s entirely about can you make a good dish with these ingredients or not? A lot of drama, buckets of tears will come out in the first episode. It’s a good one. I’m excited about it.”
On whether the secret ingredients really are secret (I asked this question because I read in a magazine that the Iron Chefs get an idea of possible secret ingredients beforehand; they just don’t know which one will actually be selected during taping. So I wondered if it was the same deal on “Chopped.”):
“They have absolutely no idea what they’ll be cooking with. … We’re really looking for really spontaneous responses. While the ingredients are totally edible and naturally respectable things like fish and vegetables, we still want people to be shocked.”
On some of the more unusual ingredients:
“When I first saw Gummi Bears, I just wanted to make sure (the producers) agreed with me we can’t get too jokey. And they did; they just want to have something in there that’s funny once in a while, but we don’t want ingredients so precious and exotic that viewers can’t relate to them.” (Earlier in the call, he said: “Gummi Bear makes a fabulous glaze for ham.”)
On the difficulty of the challenges:
“About a third into the run (of the series), the (Food Network’s culinary department) thought it needed to be harder. … Like if the basket was full of Asian ingredients, they’d remove items from the pantry that those ingredients will likely lead you to. Like soy sauce. They do want to make life difficult. It’s not a challenge if it’s not hard.”
On three ingredients he can’t live without in his kitchen:
“A bottle of Champagne in the frig for when people pop over. Lots of cheese and mustards. I think I have a mustard fetish, especially spicy ones. … Bacon. I left out bacon. Oh my God, you got to have bacon.”
On him no longer being a guest judge on BRAVO’s “Top Chef” or the Food Network’s “Iron Chef America”:
“I knew all along I wouldn’t be able to keep working on both networks. Should I be a judge on half of someone else’s show or be on my own show? It’s a pretty easy call.”
Allen adds that he’s addicted to “Top Chef” but hasn’t been able to catch the current season because of his work commitments. He also talked a bit about his rediscovered love for cauliflower (which his mom served a lot during his childhood) and making a roast chicken in his microwave/convection oven while he and his partner renovate their kitchen.
On “Chopped,” Allen serves as the host and facilitator, and won’t actually be judging the food. While he’ll miss out on the free tasting, Allen says he’s enjoying his new role as a show’s star. “It’s a different challenge. I have to learn different lines. I have to learn to find my mark. It’s fun to do something different. It’s a lot harder than judging where you can just sit back, have a drink and complain about other people’s food.”
Here’s a preview clip of the first episode of “Chopped.”
“Chopped” starring Ted Allen airs every Tuesday on the Food Network at 10 p.m./9 p.m. Central. Check your local listings.
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Labels: Food TV Recaps, Interview
Sunday, January 11, 2009
In The Kitchen: Making Won Tons
A really simple and cheap thing to make during these tough economic times are won tons. They're made in virtually every Chinese household as a basic lunch dish. Most Americans are exposed to them in won ton soup, but most Chinese eat them with noodles known as won ton mein. Growing up, I had to help my mom fold all the won tons because it's one of those things that, while easy to make, can be time consuming, like empanadas!
Here is a video demonstrating how to fold the won tons, and I bet after you watch it you'll agree they're pretty easy. After I uploaded the video to YouTube, I was surprised to see so many videos demonstrating the recipe. But hopefully you'll like mines the best. :) (And sorry that YouTube froze the video in the middle where I look like a deer in headlights. Ha!)
Again, I talk so much that I couldn't keep the video to just 10 minutes, which is the limit on YouTube. So I had to break them into two parts. Here's the first part, which demonstrates how to actually make the filling and then wrap the won tons.
And here's the second part where I show how you cook the won tons and make up a bowl of won ton mein for lunch. The full recipe is below.
Here's the actual recipe for my won tons. I'm focused primarily on the won ton and the filling, but if you want to make a bowl of won ton noodles, just buy the ready-made noodles from a Chinatown store (or the refrigerated Asian section of your grocery store) and cook them in a bowl of chicken broth and you're good to go. Enjoy!
Won Tons
Copyright 2009 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients
1/4 lb. ground pork
7-8 small shrimp, shell removed and deveined, minced
3 dried shiitake mushrooms, hydrated, minced
1/2 cup water chestnuts, finely chopped
1 T spring onions, finely chopped
1 egg
1 T soy sauce
1 T Xiao Hsing wine (or sherry)
1 t ground white pepper
1 t sesame oil
1 package of pre-made won ton wrappers*
Combine all the ingredients in a bowl and blend well. Using pre-made won ton wrappers, assemble your won tons using about a quarter size lump of filling for each won ton skin. Fold by placing filling in the middle, then fold over one corner to the opposite end, using a tab of water to make the corners stick together, creating a triangle. Close the edges to get the air out and then use your middle finger to push down the center of the wrap while bring the two opposite corners to finish the won ton.
Bring a pot of water to boil, then drop in your won tons and cook for about 2 to 3 minutes until the won tons float to the top. You can serve with Hong Kong-style egg noodles and broth to create a bowl of won ton noodle soup or serve by themselves with broth for won ton soup. Garnish with some chopped green onions.
Makes about 50 won ton pieces.
* Both the won ton wrappers and noodles can be purchased at grocery stores in Chinatown or the Asian foods aisle in your local market. It'll be in the refrigerated section because they're typically fresh. For the wrappers, be sure to buy the square versions.
TIP: You can freeze your filling and use it to make more won tons later.
FRY THEM: A treat popular with kids is frying your won tons. Bring a wok or pot filled with oil to a high heat and then drop in your won tons. It'll cook until golden brown and then float to the top when ready. Do not crowd your wok and pot with too many won tons. Give them space to fry. Bring them out with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain.
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Friday, January 09, 2009
More Elbow Room at The Pasta Shop
Market Hall at Rockridge is my little neighborhood gourmet haven. It’s fronted by the popular Oliveto Restaurant and Café and filled with a bakery, coffee shop, wine store, fish market, meat market and produce store. Sure, some of the items sold rival Whole Foods in costs, but it is a nearby quick stop to fill my gourmet needs.
One of the main shops at Market Hall is the Pasta Shop. This gourmet deli is often packed with people heading home after work, getting off the BART, and picking up some pre-made dinner at the deli section. The Pasta Shop has a much larger store at the also ritzy Fourth Street Shopping District in Berkeley, so for years the Rockridge store has been a place for fast shopping instead of browsing.
But late last year, right before Thanksgiving I think, the Pasta Shop expanded its Rockridge location, and now you can actually walk without feeling squeezed by the tiny aisles or feel crowded by the people waiting near the deli counter. I’m not sure how they were able to get more room (I think they pushed the deli counters back into the store room space) but I really like the new layout.
Having more room to walk around means the Pasta Shop can really display its products the way they do it at the Fourth Street store, just like this whole table on cheese. I love cheese and the Pasta Shop always has the best selection of local and European cheeses. I often go to buy their mini buffalo mozzarella balls or bocconcini.
And now you can look at the aisle displays without squeezing by someone looking in the opposite direction.
With more aisle room, the Pasta Shop has increased its offerings of Mariage Freres tea from Paris, which is one of my favorite brands. Now I’m sure I can regularly find my favorites like Casablanca and Black Orchid, or maybe discover new ones.
It’s always nice being able to stretch out when shopping!
The Pasta Shop, 5655 College Ave. (at Shafter), Oakland. PH: 510.250.6005. Open Monday to Friday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.; and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
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Labels: Food Shopping
Thursday, January 08, 2009
Top Chef: Season 5, Episode 7
“We’ve Found the Weapons of Mass Destruction”
Previously (two weeks ago in 2008, remember then?): The Christmas special had garbage, and everyone was in red especially the gorgeous Natasha Richardson. Hosea wins the challenge, but Tom Colicchio tells the cheftestants to step up their game. Still, no one goes home, which means there are two available seats on the bus home tonight.
Padma returns to remind us of the prize package, including the title of … TOP CHEF.
Cue the music for 2009! Still the same old cheftestants. I’ve forgotten most of their names already. This will be a fun recap.
Opening scenes of the Statue of Liberty and a quick glimpse of the Chrysler building. My goal for 2009 is to plan a trip to New York City. I’m putting it out there in the universe, like Carla Top says. Envision it and it will happen.
What I do see is EU Fabio making breakfast with pork and beans with some Spam! He must be part Hawaiian. :) Eugene, who is from Hawaii, is still pissed off from the Christmas challenge. Really? Even after two weeks? Let it go, bruddah. Jamie is also in a bad mood, and I’m just going to say it, has she ever been in a good mood?
The cheftestants roll into the Top Chef kitchen for the quickfire challenge and they already look kind of defeated. Some of them must have partied too hard for the holidays. Padma is all chipper as she introduces French chef Jean-Christophe Novelli, whom I have never heard of but who apparently will star in a new Bravo TV show called “Chef Academy.” Let me just say that the accent quota on this episode will be off the charts with this French guy, Fabio, Stefan and soon-to-come British critic and new judge Toby Young. Love it!
Oh geez, my enthusiasm just got doused by this stupidly named-product placement-quickfire challenge. Padma says chefs need to come up with healthy desserts all the time, so in this “Diet Dr. Pepper Quickfire Challenge” (kill me now), the cheftestants have to come up with a dessert without using sugar.
As the cheftestants rush off to make their desserts, you see tons of Diet Dr. Pepper cans in the refrigerator, and The Cougar (Ariane) is kissing up to the sponsors by not only using Dr. Pepper in her dessert, but repeatedly saying “Dr. Pepper” every few seconds. What? Does she get a $100 for every mention? Geez.
I notice the cheftestants in this group likes to rag on each other, like Stefan just called Hosea’s roasted green figs “green vomit.” That’s not very nice, he should just focus on his own cooking.
The tasting. Here’s how it went down:
EU Fabio made a granola and oat tart, and Chef Novelli says the cream wasn’t good enough, and Fabio says something about how the French always wants cream to be heavy but Italy won a challenge for something and this is payback. It’s Italy vs. France all over again.
Jeff the Hair made frozen cherry and yogurt and a baklava spring roll. Novelli calls it an interesting combo.
Eugene made a mini blini burger and banana lumpia, which the chef calls original.
Melissa baked a dessert burrito with fruit and yogurt. No comment.
Radhika made bread budding with whole wheat hola that Chef Novelli calls adventurous.
Leah made crepe with whipped ricotta, and Chef Novelli says something in French.
EU Stefan made sugar-free mousse de chocolate. Chef Novelli asks where Stefan is from, and he jokingly pretends he’s French. Then he proceeds to talk to Novelli in French. Kiss up.
Hosea made roasted green figs and it’s always a bad sign when the judge asks if you tried your own food. It’s kind of like Chef Novelli is thinking: “you ate this and still saw it fit to feed it to me?” (But with a French accent.)
Ariane (The Cougar) made whole wheat crepes with whipped cream. And I don’t know if the chef even tried it because he picks up the side bowl of whipped cream and it looks nasty, and he says “you can see clearly (this is) not a way to start.”
Jamie made something with ricotta and mascarpone cheese. Then Chef Novelli does this weird thing where he lets out a puff of air and just says “interesting.”
Carla Top made baklava with chocolate and fried banana. No comment.
In the end, Chef Novelli didn’t like Carla Top, The Cougar or Jamie, which probably puts her in an even more bad mood. But the chef did like Radhika, Leah and Jeff the Hair. He chooses Radhika as the winner, and she gets immunity from having to drink Diet Dr. Pepper.
Padma tells the cheftestants they have the night off before hearing details of their elimination challenge and meet the new member of the judges’ panel, Toby Young. So if you’re thinking like me that this is a trick and they’re going to go out and party and get a surprise, then you’ll be sorely disappointed as I was as we’re treated to a boring night at the condo as the cheftestants try to figure out who this Toby Young guy is.
Commercials. Of course, we’re treated to a diet Dr. Pepper commercial, but I have to say I did get nostalgic for Cheers, one of my all-time favorite series. NOOORM!!!
Back at the apartments, Tom Colicchio walks in and for some reason EU Fabio gets all Martha Stewart and worries that the place looks like a mess. Chef Tom says they’re going to cook for the new judge and a panel of foodies, and they each get to pick a dish that represents their style of cooking. So basically they have free reign to do what they want.
They split into two groups and Radhika, as the winner of immunity, gets to pick which group she wants to cook with, and she chooses Group A because it’s the group that EU Stefan is NOT in.
The first group goes shopping at Whole Foods and there’s more ragging on each other’s dishes as Jamie calls Eugene’s whole fried fish dish with daikon and basil totally weird (and she spells totally with an F). A lot of the cheftestants are resorting to tried-and-true dishes that they’ve made at their restaurants where they came from. You know, if you want to make dishes you made at your restaurants, then maybe you should go back there?
They arrive at the Astor Center and Group A starts cooking. That’s Hosea, EU Fabio, Radhika, Melissa, Jamie and Eugene. Fabio is going to make something Italian and I think he says it’s a 500-year-old recipe, or maybe he says he got it from his 100-year-old grandmother? I don’t know; sometimes we do need the captioning.
In the meantime, Group B goes shopping and Carla Top is standing in the olive oil section saying she’s going to let her intuition help her decide what to make. So her thought process is oil, oily like fish, fish like scallops. That’s the ticket. Funny to get into the brain of Carla Top, huh?
Back in the kitchen, Jamie is also making huge scallops. She’s searing them this time instead of making the raw version like the last episode. That’s when we hear EU Fabio say, “This is Top Chef. It’s not Top Scallop.” (But with an Italian accent.)
Fabio slices into his first piece of lamb, which he made sous vide style, and it’s undercooked. (See, this is why I’m not a fan of the sous vide style of cooking meat in a plastic bag submerged in water. No coloring.) But there’s nothing he can do. He just has to feed raw lamb to the new judge Toby Young. Maybe that’s how they like it in England? You never know.
Commercials. Yuck, the creepy Xbox 360 commercial with the half head is back. Ugh. That Coffeemate commercial is all about sex … and curls. Sexy curls. Yeah, that’ll sell coffee.
In the little, stupid, mini, quick, extra scene that in the past has focused on romantic flirting among the cheftestants, this time we see Fabio having problems with his pasta machine, with the handle falling off all the time and everyone teasing him about cooking Italian. This makes me nostalgic for the scenes of Hosea and Leah playing footsie. NOOORM!!
Where did Ryan and Gretchen go? (Who cares.)
The judges arrive for dinner, including of course the new guy Toby Young who totally looks like a tech writer. They send out the food with the waiters because it’s a blind tasting where they won’t know which cheftestant cooked which dish. Then the second group of chestestants arrives and Padma tells them to sit at the table because they’ll make up the second half of the judges’ panel this evening.
Of course, when Group A comes out, they’re all shocked and surprised and talking about how they’ll get really harsh reviews because the eaters/cheftestants/Group B wants to make their dishes look good by making Group A’s dishes sound bad.
When Group A walks back into the kitchen, they see a large flat screen TV with the judges’ table, so they get to listen in on the comments. EU Stefan starts off by dissing Radhika’s soup, and new judge Toby Young says they should call off the search for WMD because it’s all here in his soup. Carla Top is so funny when she says Young is harsh and she calls out for Gail, who is probably busy shoving wedding cake down her new husband’s throat right about now.
They talk about the other dishes and there are some positive and some negative comments. When it comes to the new guy, I have to say he sounds more like a movie critic. Toby Young called Hosea’s halibut dish something like classically trained British actors being upstaged by the supporting cast from America. And later that evening he made some comment about Tom Cruise’s appearance on Tropic Thunder (which I have to admit he was totally great in). I think this guy’s critiques are just as long as watching a movie. ZZzzz.
But Young did hand out a few other zingers, including calling Eugene’s fried whole fish dish “the bland leading the bland” and Melissa’s ahi tuna tacos as “a bit like cat food.”
After the meal, Group B heads to the kitchen to start cooking, and The Cougar is already worried about what Toby Young will say about her food. When they’re all done cooking, the waiters bring out their food and the group comes out to see their fellow cheftestants from Group A sitting at the table. Padma says hi and bye, and they’re excused. Such silly directions by the producers in this episode, me thinks.
The judges start eating and Padma is making a weird face, and Jamie says to her, “too much garlic, huh?” It’s like a wink between sisters or some kind of code. Anywho, Chef Tom totally loves EU Stefan’s cabbage dish with the duck even though Radhika said the dumplings were dense. This is the most excited I’ve seen Chef Tom rave about a dish in a long while.
Jeff the Hair made a trio of tapas, which was kind of a weird approach given that this was a family style dinner. Eugene says there was too much happening and Chef Tom didn’t like the concept and called it a bunch of desserts, but Toby Young loves it and says the avocado sorbet was like Tom Cruise’s surprise performance in Tropic Thunder (see above movie passage).
When dinner is over and the cheftestants at the table leave, Chef Tom says overall the second group’s offerings were much better. Toby Young thinks the overall standard is high because cat food does include a lot of protein.
Commercials. Got Milk? Go see it.
In the stew room, the cheftestants are asking who made what, and Melissa is all depressed because she made cat food. Hosea feels bad for her, and then she starts to cry. Poor Daryl Hannah. Padma arrives and asks for the chefs who made the dishes they liked, and that turns out to be Jamie, The Cougar and EU Stefan.
At the judges’ table, Chef Tom throws praises on Stefan for his perfectly cooked duck, and new judge Toby Young says it’s definitely German (but Stefan is Swiss, go figure). Then he says something about a wood cabin. I don’t know. This guy talks in tangents.
Jamie says she wanted to redeem herself from her scallop crudo fiasco during the holidays, and everyone complimented her on the classic fennel and orange combination, which is really standard and not so innovative, IMHO.
The Cougar made skate (a kind of fish) and Chef Novelli says it was a very strong dish. But he gives the win to Jamie and she is ecstatic and so is Ariane who was worried about the wrath of Jamie if she wins over Jamie one more time.
When the group in the stew room finds out that Jamie won, they are ALL relieved as well. No more bad mood Jamie, at least for now. Jamie sends Melissa, Eugene and Carla Top to the judges’ table.
In front of the judges, Carla Top basically falls on her chef knife and admits that she was planning to make a vegetarian risotto and decided to add the scallops at the last minute. Chef Tom says risotto should never be a garnish. (Or if this were Toby Young speaking, he would say something about how the risotto should never be like Baby stuck at the corner ala Dirty Dancing.)
Melissa says she enjoyed the challenge, and Chef Tom is confused because in his head he’s thinking, “um, you know you’re in the bottom three, right?” She goes on to say that she learned a lot from hearing the judges’ critique. Then she admits that she would make something different after everyone called her fish tacos unimaginative, and Toby Young says you could smell it a mile away, and not like a good smell but the kind of smell when someone brings leftover fish to work and microwaves it in the common dining area and your co-workers have to smell that fishy smell for the rest of the day. But that never happened to me.
Eugene’s fried red snapper was the most creative and unusual, according to Chef Novelli, but it was overcooked. Toby Young says he liked that he took risks, but it was a failed experiment because the dish lacked flavor.
Then the three talked about why they should stay, and really, none of them gave a convincing argument and I’m expecting grumpy Tom Colicchio to make an appearance and deliver his “If I had my druthers I’d send you all home” speech.
They’re excused and the judges deliberate some more, and it looks like Toby is fighting for Eugene because he says Eugene is at least trying to be creative, but Tom just isn’t buying the fish dish. Chef Novelli says Carla Top is like someone driving without knowing where to go, and I think to myself, wow, he really does knows Carla. Toby says she’s not confident, which Carla Top repeats herself while sitting in the stew room.
Judgment time. Chef Tom says this was a straight-forward challenge for them to wow the judges but they didn’t. He says Eugene needs his skills to catch up with his creativity, Melissa had a lack of imagination, and Carla Top overthought, overworked and ruined her dish. Padma sends Melissa packing her knives first, and just when I thought we would lose our funny Valentine Carla Top, Padma sends local boy Eugene home to the islands.
When the three go back to the stew room, it was weird to see the initial reaction of the rest of the gang, which was no reaction at all. It was like they knew Melissa and Eugene would be the ones to go. There are some tears shed and a comment about running out of booze, and then they move on. Aloha!
Next week: Top Chef winner Hung makes a return. There’s a big dirty pig and live chickens. And we finally see the infamous Jamie “are you calling me a douche-bag?” battle with Stefan.
“Top Chef: New York” airs every Wednesday at 10 p.m. (9 p.m. Central) on Bravo TV. Photos courtesy of Bravo TV’s Web site.
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Wednesday, January 07, 2009
Dish on Dining: La Mar
A Continuing Lesson in Peruvian Cuisine
Pier 1 1/2, San Francisco
Along the Embarcadero
PH: 415.397.8880
Open daily for lunch, 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.; dinner, 5:30–10 p.m. (until 10:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday)
Reservations, major credit cards accepted
www.lamarcebicheria.com
Someone commented in another post awhile back that Peruvian cuisine is the new Thai, and I have to agree, what with all the new Peruvian restaurants popping up around town. Probably the most popular is the festive La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, which opened late last year along the waterfront just up the street from the San Francisco Ferry Building.
San Francisco is La Mar’s first U.S. outpost for celebrity chef Gastón Acurio, who plans an empire of cebicherias around the globe. (Along with his restaurant in Peru, he has plans to open a La Mar in Mexico, Chile and Costa Rica.)
A cebicheria is a restaurant focused on one of Peru’s most popular dishes—ceviche (which is spelled cebiche at La Mar). I’m a big fan of ceviches, which like Italian crudo or Japanese sashimi is basically raw fish cured with citrus. So I trekked out to La Mar on a couple of trips during the holidays.
Both of my visits were on busy Friday nights. The first time I decided to eat at the bar, which is off to the right of the front entrance, giving you a view of the Embarcadero traffic. (If you want a view of the waterfront, you have to eat in the dining room.) My night started off great because it was Pisco Sour night at the bar, and I’ve been dying to find a Pisco Sour in San Francisco since I had my first one in Buenos Aires.
The Pisco Sour is the national drink of Peru. Everyone drinks it there, and of course everyone talks about it when they talk about Peruvian cuisine. My visits to places like Limon in the Mission District were always thwarted by the lack of the Pisco Sour. When I tried it poolside in Buenos Aires, I fell in love with the frothy egg white on top with the three dashes of hot chili, all cooled off by the tart lemon juice and soothing pisco, which is similar to brandy.
With my Pisco Sour in hand, I perused the menu, which offered a lot more selections of Peruvian cuisine than I’ve seen in any other U.S. restaurant. I’m still continuing my education about South American cuisines after my Buenos Aires trip, so I was excited to see the many choices.
Side note: My bartender gave me a bowl of chili-roasted corn kernels that were delightfully crunchy, almost like corn nuts. I thought they were a nice compliment to my Pisco Sour.
Along with several ceviches, La Mar also offers causa, which is a traditional Peruvian dish made of whipped potatoes. There were also several classic entrees made of rice or the popular lomo saltado (a meat-and-potato dish), and then new inventions by Acurio and his head chef, Victoriano Lopez, who is really Acurio’s point man in the San Francisco kitchen.
I started with a ceviche, of course, and gravitated to the Cebiche Amazonas ($15) because of the combination of ahi tuna and mangoes. The dish, in an ice-like platter, came topped with a couple of prawns and spiced with aji panca. It sat in a pool of star fruit leche de tigre sauce.
The ingredients all tasted fresh, and I particularly liked the fact that the ceviche didn’t have the strong tart flavor of lime that can sometimes happen. It was a very balanced flavor. My only gripe was that there was too much of the sauce, which was watery and made me nervous picking up my fish pieces because I worried the slightest drop would mean a puddle of red sauce splashed onto my shirt.
I also ordered another appetizer, which was a play on the popular lomo saltado dish I mentioned. The Tequenos de Lomo Saltado ($12) is basically the ingredients of the lomo saltado made into a spring roll, another example of how Peruvian cuisine borrows freely from Asia.
Although not a fan of fried foods, I wanted to see how the Lomo Saltado could be interpreted into a spring roll. When the dish came out, it looked like any other spring rolls. It was freshly fried and piping hot; the skin was thin and crispy, just perfectly cooked. The ingredients included little bits of beef served with a peanut ocopa dipping sauce. While the ingredients tasted fine, I felt the essence of the meat was really lost in the vehicle, which was the crunchy spring roll skin.
The bar has several tall tables where people gathered for drinks and snacks, but I was determined to check out the rest of the restaurant. So I returned on another Friday night and asked for a table in the dining room. But the room, which in reality isn’t very large, was all booked up so the hostess seated me at the large (and blue-glowing) cebiche bar.
Just like a sushi bar, the huge cebiche bar is peppered with chunks of seafood under glass counters and cebiche chefs busily making the star dishes of the night. But unlike a sushi bar, you don’t interact with the cebiche chefs at La Mar. The seats are lower than the counters, so you can barely see the top of their heads behind the counter, and when you sit down, they don’t talk to you. Instead, a server comes to take your order, just like in the dining room except you don’t have a normal table.
Despite this wasted concept of a cebiche bar in my opinion, my server was very pleasant and extremely informed about the various Peruvian dishes. She easily explained the various ingredients that are listed in the courses, which is really helpful for someone just learning about Peruvian cuisine.
This time I started with the traditional causa, but ordered one using purple potatoes. The Causa Nikei ($11) is topped with ahi tuna with a nikei sauce, and served with avocado puree and a creamy aji amarillo and rocoto huancaina sauce. The dish arrives with the causa presented in three little towers, topped with the tuna served raw like tuna tartar. They’re garnished with strips of nori, the Japanese seaweed used to make sushi.
The causa, made up of the purple potato, was dense and starchy, like what you would expect a potato cake to be like. I actually expected it to be lighter like mashed potatoes because the menu says “whipped potato.” Still, I really liked the tuna on top. The chef tossed the tuna in a sauce that gave it more complexity and body, which really dressed up the entire dish. When dredged along the creamy aji amarillo sauce, you really get a lot of kick and definitely need a lot of water to soothe your mouth. I liked the powerful kick of the aji amarillo, but this is fair warning that the heat lingers for awhile so don’t overdo it.
I forgot to mention that you get a hint of the aji amarillo sauce at the start of your meal because La Mar serves a basket of fried plantains and chips with three dipping sauces that goes from mild to medium to aji amarillo spicy. I really liked the touch of the plantains and if I were into fried foods, I probably would have eaten the whole basket because it was expertly fried.
Back to my dinner, I ordered the Arroz Jugoso ($21) for my entrée. It’s a seafood dish that the menu described as “juicy arborio rice with Peruvian flavors.” The dish looks comforting and quite huge when it comes bubbling to your table. Every piece of seafood—from the seared halibut fillet on top to the plump mussels peppered around the dish—was fresh and well prepared. I really enjoyed this dish that reminded me of gumbo because of its soup base or a really wet risotto.
The jugoso, which also included generous offerings of calamari, octopus bits and clams, was rounded off with the Peruvian corn (which has really big kernels) and peas. It’s hard to really describe the so-called Peruvian flavor, but the dish definitely was well-seasoned—almost to the point of being salty but not quite going off the cliff.
You’d think after eating this huge plate of rice that I’d be done, and I really was. But I foraged forward to desserts.
La Mar offers a variety of desserts, including several fried items like beignets and fritters that I just avoided because I’ve tested La Mars frying skills and I’m satisfied that they’re experts in this arena. So I settled for one of my favorite standbys, the tiramisu ($10).
At La Mar, their version is made with a Peruvian fruit called the lucuma. My server explained that the fruit is in the avocado family and looks similar except that the flesh is orange colored. She says the taste reminds her of butterscotch.
Intrigued, I ordered it and out came a tiny slice of tiramisu with a scoop of ice cream, also made with the lucuma fruit. The tiramisu’s top layer was supposedly the lucuma cake because it had a distinct yellow-orange color that you wouldn’t normally see in the traditional tiramisu. Unfortunately, I couldn’t detect the flavor of the lucuma because all I got was the cocoa powder overly sprinkled on top of the cake.
However, my dessert experience was saved by the scoop of lucuma ice cream because it was creamy, rich and tasted just like butterscotch. (I don’t know if that was subliminal because my server had already planted the thought in my mind, but I didn’t care since I love the taste of butterscotch.)
I should note that La Mar, being so popular, quickly filled its dining room and with its high ceilings the noise was deafening. In a way, I was glad that I was sitting away from the scene at the cebiche bar, which was a bit more relaxed and quiet.
La Mar is an exciting, welcomed addition to the Embarcadero scene with a huge space that creates different experiences depending on whether you sit at the front bar, cebiche bar/lounge area, or the main dining room (there’s also outdoor patio seating by the water that I didn’t want to brave on a cold San Francisco night). While the food can be slightly off in a few areas, the overall freshness of the food and the authentic Peruvian ingredients hold a lot of promise. It’s definitely a fun place to begin anyone’s education about the cuisine of this region (and find a glass of Pisco Sour).
Single guy rating: 4 stars (Explore a new cuisine)
Explanation of the single guy's rating system:
1 star = perfect for college students
2 stars = perfect for new diners
3 stars = perfect for foodies
4 stars = perfect for expense accounts
5 stars = perfect for any guy's dream dinner
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Single Guy Ben
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Labels: Review
Monday, January 05, 2009
Back for Seconds: Serpentine
This is an occasional report on return visits to restaurants that I’ve already reviewed.
Bring on the Brunch Report
2495 Third St. (at 22nd), San Francisco
Dogpatch neighborhood
PH: 415.252.2000
Lunch: 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., Mon.–Fri.; dinner: 6–10 p.m., Tues.–Sat.; brunch, 10 a.m.–2 p.m., Sat.–Sun.
Major credit cards, reservations accepted
www.serpentinesf.com
Original visit: April 2008
During the holidays, it’s a time for getting together with old friends, and brunch seems to always be the ideal food service to gather around. Of course, being the food guy, I’m always feeling the pressure to recommend a fun but tasty option.
When my friend Sylvia was in town from New York, we met up with our other friends Denise and Roger (aka “the breeders,” although this time they came sans kids). I threw out a few options and we settled for Serpentine, a place that I’ve visited before for dinner but hadn’t tried out its brunch options (but had recently read about it at No Salad as a Meal).
The restaurant is out there pretty much on its own in the up-and-coming Dogpatch neighborhood of San Francisco, not too far from the new campus of the UC-San Francisco Medical School. When I arrived, Sylvia, Denise and Roger had already seated themselves in a corner booth tucked away near the kitchen.
It wasn’t as crowded for brunch as I thought it might be, and I don’t know if that’s because it was the holidays or the location is too far out there for some people. But no matters; it gave us free reign over the open dining area with its tall concrete ceilings.
For brunch, the menu offered the typical fare of eggs, pancakes and crispy potatoes. Denise and Sylvia zeroed in on the Red Flannel Hash ($13.50), a dish that I recently discovered myself at another brunch spot. Sylvia recalled having red flannel hash (it gets its name from the beets mixed in the hash) in Seattle, so she was looking forward to trying Serpentine’s version.
I went for the Frittata ($10) and Roger went the lunch route, ordering the Chicken Salad Sandwich ($9.50).
The Red Flannel Hash came out with chunks of red beets and crispy potatoes and bits of Prather Ranch beef brisket. In the photo, you can barely see the red beets because they were eclipsed by the two poached eggs on top with horseradish crème fraiche.
While everything looked fresh and nicely cooked, Sylvia and Denise didn’t seem thrilled by the flavoring nor the rustic chunkiness of the ingredients. Roger threw in that the dish looked more like a “deconstructed red flannel hash” as opposed to one where the ingredients melded together in all their hashness. Sylvia says the red flannel hash she got in Seattle is still the best, in her opinion.
My frittata came out looking flatter than I expected, and I have to say it wasn’t very memorable. In fact, I can’t recall what was in it other than the eggs, caramelized onions and roasted red bell peppers. (The online menu mentioned Blue Lake beans, which I love but don’t recall eating in the frittata.) I knew I loved the crispy potatoes served on the side. I was afraid to find out whether they were deep-fried or baked under a salamander because it was so well done I didn’t want the thought of them being made in fat to stop me from eating them.
In fact, all of Serpentine’s fried foods seem to be done expertly, as Roger could attest to from his shoestring French fries that came with his chicken salad. The sandwich itself was served on a nicely toasted “torpedo” roll, but I could tell that it was a bit watery from the green apple chunks mixed in with the chicken meat.
The service was top notch and friendly, which you want for brunch. And we spent more time catching up with each other than talking about the food. I recently put together a list of my top 10 restaurants I visited in 2008 and Serpentine just made the cut. But if I had to throw in this brunch experience, I think it might have fallen off the list.
Don’t get me wrong: the food is expertly prepared. It just lacks flair during brunch that I’ve seen at nights.
Update experience (previous 4 stars): Knocking it down to 3.5 stars for its marginal brunch experience.
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Single Guy Ben
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Sunday, January 04, 2009
Make a Date with Dates
Any date lovers out there? I can't say I'm a big fan (it reminds me of prunes), but I did see these fresh dates being sold at the Civic Center Farmers Market in San Francisco last week and thought it was interesting to see them still on the stem. Usually I see dates all dried and packaged. A vendor was selling these for $2.50 a pound. A sign says that these fresh dates are best when they get dark brown, which is really just drying them on the stem. They would make an interesting centerpiece for a dinner table huh?
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Single Guy Ben
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Labels: Food Shopping
Friday, January 02, 2009
Beets for Brunch
One of my favorite root vegetables in the wintertime is the beet. It can be a bit of work to prepare them and you have to deal with the red coloring that gets everywhere, but it’s sooo worth it in my opinion to eat beets fresh rather than from a can.
A few weeks ago, I went to brunch with some friends at this new place near my neighborhood. On the menu was something called the Red Flannel Hash. It was a plate of roasted beets and potatoes with a few other things. Since I love roasted vegetables, I thought this was such a great dish. I thought the restaurant made up the dish and called it Red Flannel Hash, but then I saw Red Flannel Hash on the menu at another restaurant. Now I see it everywhere!
I decided to make it at home, and similar to how these restaurants made the dish, I placed a poached egg on top. (It’s supposedly the new trend in cooking: placing a poached egg on everything.) I’m sure my Red Flannel Hash recipe isn’t traditional. One, because I don’t like onions that much so I substituted shallots. Then I thought Italian parsley is a bit harsh in taste, so I used chives instead. This turned out to be a really comforting dish that’s very colorful for brunch. Enjoy!
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Single Guy Ben
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Red Flannel Hash
Copyright 2009 by Cooking With The Single Guy
Ingredients:
3/4 cup red beets (about 2 small or 1 big beet), peeled and diced
3/4 cup yukon potatoes, diced
3 oz. cooked corned beef, chopped
1 large shallot bulb, finely diced
1/4 cup chives, finely chopped
1 egg, poached
extra virgin olive oil
salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
Dice beets and potatoes into small cubes, about 1/4-inch thick. Toss in extra virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread out over roasting tray and place in oven to roast for about 15-20 minutes until tender inside and crispy edges. (Half way through cutting, stir the ingredients to make sure all sides get crispy.) When done, remove from oven and set aside.
Bring a pot of water to a boil and then poach one egg. Cook for about 3 minutes and then fish out of pot with a slotted spoon and place egg on paper towels and sprinkle a little bit of salt on top.
In a skillet, warm about 2 tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat. Add shallots and season with a pinch of salt, and then cook for about 2-3 minutes until translucent. Add corned beef and cook for another minute to warm up the meat, then add your roasted potatoes and beets and toss to blend everything for a few seconds. Mix in chopped chives and plate everything. Place your poached egg on top and you’re ready to eat.
Makes one serving. Pair with a Bloody Mary.
TIP: When roasting beets and potatoes, make sure you spread them out and not crowd the tray. If they’re too close together, they won’t crisp up nicely and instead will just steam.
FLANNEL MEAT: I used cooked corned beef for this recipe, but you can use any meat that you like, as long as it has a nice salt element with some fat. Things like pastrami or bacon will also work, just adjust the cooking to make sure the meat gets cooked before you add in the potatoes and beets.
BACK TO BASICS: Ever poached an egg before? It’s super easy, although working tenderly is key. Start by boiling water in a shallow pan or pot (about 3 inches of water). When water is boiling, reduce heat so that it isn’t a rolling boil. (You don’t want the water bubbling heavily because that’ll agitate the egg too much, but you want it hot enough to cook the egg.) Break an egg into a shallow dish to make sure the yolk isn’t broken. Then slowly slip the egg from the dish into the hot water. Cook for about 3 minutes then fish out with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to dry and let rest. (If you like your yolk more runny, cook for 2 minutes. If you like it more cooked, go for 4 minutes.)
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